The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 699 Old 09-03-2011, 01:03 PM
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I have a 100" framed screen made of blackout cloth in a moderately light-controlled room using a Panasonic PT-AX100 from about 14 feet. I'd like to paint it with this mix, but I have a couple questions. Firstly, would I be able to use paints from different brands but the same color? Or would that screw everything up. Secondly, is rolling completely out of the question? I have access to a HVLP gun, but I would rather roll the stuff. Thanks.
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post #92 of 699 Old 09-03-2011, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Moore View Post

I have a 100" framed screen made of blackout cloth in a moderately light-controlled room using a Panasonic PT-AX100 from about 14 feet. I'd like to paint it with this mix, but I have a couple questions. Firstly, would I be able to use paints from different brands but the same color? Or would that screw everything up. Secondly, is rolling completely out of the question? I have access to a HVLP gun, but I would rather roll the stuff. Thanks.

RS-MaxxMudd is what it is and does what it does not so much because of it's "color" but how it's combination of components work together.

A few have in the past tried to dispute this about RS-MaxxMudd and Silver Fire...especially concerning the RGBY Colorant....saying all that is needed is to color match the end product, and that the Mica isn't really of any advantage. But gosh....where is the proof by example? Tain't any.

Anyone with any real knowledge of how reflective properties within a mixture work knows better...or certainly should.

With no small amount of effort, great pains have been taken through the development of these advanced mixes to use the best possible components that are readily available. Much emphasis is made on "readily available" 'cause if ya can't get what ya need....yur not gonna wind up with want your lookin' fer.

And just as important is how the "color" of the chosen ingredients meld together and produce the right shades and degree of neutrality...that is to say create no adverse color shifts when they are hit with the intense projected light. Different paint Mfg often use different ways to reach the same color, and sometimes mixing those colors up with others doesn't pan out the way one would have them to.

As for rolling onto BOC...yeah, it's been done. But successes in doing so have been measured with a very small ruler.

Spraying onto Cloth has always been best,,,and remains so. If you have the gear to do so (what kind of HVLP rig ya got?) then avail yourself of the method that has been determined to be best.


Hey...I always loved the Panny 100. It was...and remains a great PJ.

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post #93 of 699 Old 09-03-2011, 01:51 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. I'm not quite sure the type of gun... it looks pretty heavy-duty. I work for a small wallpaper company making hand-painted wallpaper, so we have a lot of paint and paint supplies around. I think the gun was used in earlier paper designs and then shelved, so doubtless I can borrow it and experiment with it. The PT100 is pretty nice, I guess, especially for my low-budget operation. Things will pick up in a month or so and I might be able to upgrade, but right now it's barely a shoestring. I definitely understand what you mean about differing manufacturers and whatnot. Perhaps I will try to throw a mix together using these different paints and see what happens?
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post #94 of 699 Old 09-06-2011, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks for the quick reply. I'm not quite sure the type of gun... it looks pretty heavy-duty. I work for a small wallpaper company making hand-painted wallpaper, so we have a lot of paint and paint supplies around. I think the gun was used in earlier paper designs and then shelved, so doubtless I can borrow it and experiment with it. The PT100 is pretty nice, I guess, especially for my low-budget operation. Things will pick up in a month or so and I might be able to upgrade, but right now it's barely a shoestring. I definitely understand what you mean about differing manufacturers and whatnot. Perhaps I will try to throw a mix together using these different paints and see what happens?

Be advised that using a standard "Compressor-powered" HVLP gun doesn't just involve hooking up a Air hose and squirtin' away.

You need a "GOOD" Water/Rust filter, the proper sized Nozzle/Needle assembly, pant strainers (Nylon Sock type), and a compressor that can maintain a minimum of 100 psi at the Compressor's Hose outlet so your Gun can maintain a truly consistent 40-45 psi at the Gun itself.

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post #95 of 699 Old 09-09-2011, 08:04 PM
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Hmmm. More to consider. I suppose those details are found somewhere on this forum? I'll have to check work on Monday to see what the gun's got. As far as paints, how do you feel about Modern Masters? It's what we use and where our silver and white pearl paints come from.
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post #96 of 699 Old 09-10-2011, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Moore View Post

Hmmm. More to consider. I suppose those details are found somewhere on this forum? I'll have to check work on Monday to see what the gun's got. As far as paints, how do you feel about Modern Masters? It's what we use and where our silver and white pearl paints come from.

Modern Masters are more than acceptable...forge ahead.

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post #97 of 699 Old 09-14-2011, 03:10 PM
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can someone point me to the spraying instructions using these formulas.Do i add extra water for the sprayer etc.? I bought the blue sprayer that MM recommended from Gleem
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post #98 of 699 Old 09-21-2011, 04:48 PM
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has anyone experienced sparklies using RS-MaxxMudd HGC v.2.1. I currently have the panny 900u but am planning on upgrading to the epson 8350 or optima h33. The only ambient light would be from reflections off walls and ceiling
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post #99 of 699 Old 09-21-2011, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1969 View Post

has anyone experienced sparklies using RS-MaxxMudd HGC v.2.1. I currently have the panny 900u but am planning on upgrading to the epson 8350 or optima h33. The only ambient light would be from reflections off walls and ceiling

I haven't with my Panny AX200U.

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post #100 of 699 Old 09-22-2011, 10:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1969 View Post

has anyone experienced sparklies using RS-MaxxMudd HGC v.2.1. I currently have the panny 900u but am planning on upgrading to the epson 8350 or optima h33. The only ambient light would be from reflections off walls and ceiling

if you are upgrading to the 8350 or hd33... then you really don't need the HG unless you plan on going bigger than 120".
otherwise stick with standard rs-maxxmudd v2.1
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post #101 of 699 Old 09-23-2011, 01:25 AM
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thanks PB.
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post #102 of 699 Old 09-26-2011, 04:50 PM
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finished my screen using Rs-maxx mud 2.1. Looks great but theres a slight glare that im seeing. Dont know if id call it hot spotting but i may be wrong. when i move my head left to right the "glare" moves with my movement. Is this due to the fact that the paint needs to cure for a week or two or did i do something wrong? My primer/basecoat was upw semi gloss but i did a good 7 mud coats on top.
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post #103 of 699 Old 09-26-2011, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1969 View Post

finished my screen using Rs-maxx mud 2.1. Looks great but theres a slight glare that im seeing. Dont know if id call it hot spotting but i may be wrong. when i move my head left to right the "glare" moves with my movement. Is this due to the fact that the paint needs to cure for a week or two or did i do something wrong? My primer/basecoat was upw semi gloss but i did a good 7 mud coats on top.

Give it time to cure. A week minimum.

BTW, did you do the application in a "Duster-like" fashion or with heavier coats? Is the surface really smooth, almost slippery to the touch?

In any case, the surface of the RS-MaxxMudd will retain a bit of sheen for 3-4 days, after which it will start to look noticeably flatter. By 2-3 weeks, the Poly content within will have a chance to completely dry.

The Semi-Gloss basecoat? Nope...you didn't do anything wrong there.

Oh...one last thing. Get a Neck Brace. And stop moving your head around. Your not watching a Table Tennis match, are ya?

Really though, to say it moves with you would indicate your getting some excessive reflection from the Bulb due to sheen-ing, and that could, should, and would be considered Hot Spotting. Some of that can also be related to your seating position in conjunction with the angle the light coming onto the screen from the PJ.

But ya just got it painted....you chose the highest gain version...and most know these screen are at their best after 2-3 weeks, so as of now...don't sweat it.

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post #104 of 699 Old 09-26-2011, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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and don't forget to recalibrate your pj... you'll likely have tone down your brightness / contrast settings.
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post #105 of 699 Old 09-27-2011, 01:30 AM
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yes i did dusters and just installed a new lamp in my pj and calibrated it with the new lamp. The screen is definitely smooth. I wouldnt say slippery though.Thanks for the replies. Ill give it a few weeks and let yas know
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post #106 of 699 Old 10-01-2011, 03:56 PM
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In the middle of painting my TWB right now... Looks like i'll have a lot left over so if anyone in the Central PA area wants it, let me know...
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post #107 of 699 Old 10-04-2011, 07:50 AM
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So I just ordered my first projector. I pre ordered a JVC DLA-RS45. I have heard really good things about the JVC line from the standpoint of black levels and contrast, but I also heard that the RS40/50/60 were a little low on Lumens. My room is 16 X 19, with the screen going on the short wall, and will be almost totally light controlled. My pj will be mounted with a throw range of about 16' and I am planning on a screen size of just over 100" with BOC on a wood frame projecting on the shiny side of the BOC.

I suppose I am really not sure whether or not I should need to pain my screen, but I have been reading all the good things about the MM mix and am leaning towards doing so. I suppose my question is really around which version to use or if I should do anything at all before I get the pj in and mounted and then decide based on how it looks? If the lumens are low then I would lean towards the MM-LL to increase the gain up to around 1.4 but if the image is bright enough then I would just use the basic MM v2 mix. Does that sound reasonable?

Thanks for all your help and the great information!
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post #108 of 699 Old 10-04-2011, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kertofer View Post

So I just ordered my first projector. I pre ordered a JVC DLA-RS45. I have heard really good things about the JVC line from the standpoint of black levels and contrast, but I also heard that the RS40/50/60 were a little low on Lumens. My room is 16 X 19, with the screen going on the short wall, and will be almost totally light controlled. My pj will be mounted with a throw range of about 16' and I am planning on a screen size of just over 100" with BOC on a wood frame projecting on the shiny side of the BOC.

I suppose I am really not sure whether or not I should need to pain my screen, but I have been reading all the good things about the MM mix and am leaning towards doing so. I suppose my question is really around which version to use or if I should do anything at all before I get the pj in and mounted and then decide based on how it looks? If the lumens are low then I would lean towards the MM-LL to increase the gain up to around 1.4 but if the image is bright enough then I would just use the basic MM v2 mix. Does that sound reasonable?

Thanks for all your help and the great information!

RS-MM LL all the way.

You can always attenuate the PJ's brightness, but you cannot "grow" more lumens.

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post #109 of 699 Old 10-04-2011, 01:51 PM
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Awesome, thanks a lot MississippiMan!
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post #110 of 699 Old 10-04-2011, 06:07 PM
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I'm not happy with the TWB and the texture that appears with skin tones... Don't think it's my HD20 as much as the texture of the TWB, with the paint added... It could be sanded a little but I wonder if it would be better to change product and paint something else, like the Poster board product that you guys talk about...

I can almost see little squares in the board after painting it, like long underwear texture...if that makes sense...
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post #111 of 699 Old 10-04-2011, 06:39 PM
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I'm not happy with the TWB and the texture that appears with skin tones... Don't think it's my HD20 as much as the texture of the TWB, with the paint added... It could be sanded a little but I wonder if it would be better to change product and paint something else, like the Poster board product that you guys talk about...

I can almost see little squares in the board after painting it, like long underwear texture...if that makes sense...

That's something new to me....might be a one time kinda thing as far as the finish on the TWH.

If such was commonplace, a great many would have pipped in before this with the same comments.

Are you sure your not seeing pixel structure? If the pattern is precise and uniform over the entire surface, I'd say that would be almost certainly the case.

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post #112 of 699 Old 10-04-2011, 11:39 PM
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Newbie question... is MM suitable for use on a roll up screen ? Or is it too thick and will it flake off ?
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post #113 of 699 Old 10-05-2011, 04:23 AM
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Quote:
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That's something new to me....might be a one time kinda thing as far as the finish on the TWH.

If such was commonplace, a great many would have pipped in before this with the same comments.

Are you sure your not seeing pixel structure? If the pattern is precise and uniform over the entire surface, I'd say that would be almost certainly the case.

I'll check again, thanks for the tip...

How "smooth" should the final finish be? Mine is matte and a bit rough to the touch... I have zero hotspots and it's very uniformed... I used my Harbor Freight gravity fed air gun and it laid out nicely...

I could also see the area where I applied the liquid nails on the backside, it actually affected the front finish before painting...
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post #114 of 699 Old 10-05-2011, 04:41 AM
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Newbie question... is MM suitable for use on a roll up screen ? Or is it too thick and will it flake off ?

Properly diluted and properly applied, it has been used as an effective coating for a great many retractable screens.

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post #115 of 699 Old 10-05-2011, 04:49 AM
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I'll check again, thanks for the tip...

I could also see the area where I applied the liquid nails on the backside, it actually affected the front finish before painting...

Now that's even more crazy. TWH is a melamine coated High Density Fiberboard, While I would not go so far as to say it's waterproof, I have hung many sheets using Liquid nails For Projects (...the most volatile type...) and I've never seen the evaporation of the petrochemical drying elements ever pass through the material.

If that happened, then yes, that could have definitely affected the finish.

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post #116 of 699 Old 10-06-2011, 05:46 PM
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The liquid nails (very basic type) definitely affected the board. If you stood at an angle (before painting) you could see the swirled line where it was applied underneath... The paint covered most of it though...
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post #117 of 699 Old 10-06-2011, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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when something's as thin as TWH... i don't recommend any adhesive that shrinks as it dries...as it'll burn in the board. unfortunately liquid nails construction adhesive is in the shrinking category.
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post #118 of 699 Old 10-07-2011, 03:08 PM
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A couple of questions: What is TWH and where does one get it? If I end up being less than thrilled with my BOC screen it sounds like a very popular material that people see great results with.

Also, if Liquid Nails is not good to use to hang it on the frame, what would you recommend?
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post #119 of 699 Old 10-07-2011, 07:28 PM
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Ttiwwp

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post #120 of 699 Old 10-07-2011, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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a foam based adhesive caulk
or a non-shrinking silicon based caulk.
'white-lightning' comes to mind.
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