The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - Page 9 - AVS Forum
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post #241 of 751 Old 01-03-2012, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Depends upon the type Frame the WA-DW is mounted on....but essentially you would spray on paint for best results.

Rolling is the other option, but comes with less assurance of "best possible" results.

However, spraying is no sure thing as I have found out.

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post #242 of 751 Old 01-04-2012, 07:28 AM
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Setting up a budget HT in our basement. Drywall almost done . 2 rows of Recessed lights on 2 sep. dimmers, no windows. Mostly HD sports and movies and kids Xbox. New Optoma HD66 projector for now. About 11.5 foot throw and 90" diagonal screen. Would love to paint directly on wall or on some masonite or other easily found and hung product. Sintra appears hard to find in my area and another cost and step in the process. Is the RS MAXX MUDD LL 2.1 the best choice for me? Thanks for the advice! This thread and the SF thread are awesome and (almost) overwhelming to the uninitiated.
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post #243 of 751 Old 01-04-2012, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngraz View Post

Setting up a budget HT in our basement. Drywall almost done . 2 rows of Recessed lights on 2 sep. dimmers, no windows. Mostly HD sports and movies and kids Xbox. New Optoma HD66 projector for now. About 11.5 foot throw and 90" diagonal screen. Would love to paint directly on wall or on some masonite or other easily found and hung product. Sintra appears hard to find in my area and another cost and step in the process. Is the RS MAXX MUDD LL 2.1 the best choice for me? Thanks for the advice! This thread and the SF thread are awesome and (almost) overwhelming to the uninitiated.


Where do you live? You'd be surprised where I can help locate Sintra / Cometex sheeting.

With the HD66 you certainly do not need / want "LL"....you need a somewhat darker hued screen.

No need to feel overwhelmed. That's what many of us are on here, to present viable alternatives, provide answers and suggestions, and help people along the way.

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post #244 of 751 Old 01-04-2012, 12:05 PM
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I wouldn't mind trying something different since I've had a Black Widow painted wall since I built my theater but not sure about the ability to spray in the house in a finished area.
Is it possible to spray in an area where I would mask off the carpet and walls with plastic? Basement area so there is no ventilation.
I always run my projector, Epson 6100, in Dynamic mode. Wouldn't mind to be able to turn it down using a screen with more gain.

I've got a diy masking system that is right against the wall so I would have to keep using the wall as the screen.
Just thinking outloud.

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post #245 of 751 Old 01-04-2012, 03:10 PM
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I recently moved from a epson light cannon to a RS-45. My screen is currently silver fire 2.0 (3.0 mix color components) and I think the image may be too dark even on high lamp due to the silver fire paint. After reading a bit it seems like the RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1 would be a much better paint for me with this projector?

Is it ok to spray it in several duster coats right over the darker grey silver fire without any priming or should I prime it white and sand first?
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post #246 of 751 Old 01-04-2012, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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vullcan;

yes. lightly brush sand entire surface with fine grit 3M sanding sponge.
then put down 3 dusters to lighten your current screen up.
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post #247 of 751 Old 01-05-2012, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazzey View Post

I wouldn't mind trying something different since I've had a Black Widow painted wall since I built my theater but not sure about the ability to spray in the house in a finished area.
Is it possible to spray in an area where I would mask off the carpet and walls with plastic? Basement area so there is no ventilation.
I always run my projector, Epson 6100, in Dynamic mode. Wouldn't mind to be able to turn it down using a screen with more gain.

I've got a diy masking system that is right against the wall so I would have to keep using the wall as the screen.
Just thinking outloud.

Hi Wazzey,

I do such spraying all the time, using Plastic attached to the Ceiling w/Thumb Tacks (no holes ever show) that drapes down creating a enclosure.
9' x 12' x .7 mil to 2ml. is available really cheap at the 'Depot.

Gotta use a Dual Cartridge Respirator Mask though (19.95 @ the 'Depot) and if you raise the Temp in the area to 80 degrees, turn off the heat while spraying, let the dust settle for 5 min., turn on the heat again, and place a elevated fan to blow on the screen surface from 5' away, you can do each coat with just a 30-45 min wait between them.

You'll need to spray prime at least 3-4 diluted coats of Primer over the BW screen to be assured of getting the maximum gain out of a RS-Maxx or SF 2.0 Top Coat. Just stay connected and let us walk you through the entire process and I assure you you'll be running the 6010 in low lamp...even if your in 3D mode.

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post #248 of 751 Old 01-05-2012, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vullcan View Post

I recently moved from a epson light cannon to a RS-45. My screen is currently silver fire 2.0 (3.0 mix color components) and I think the image may be too dark even on high lamp due to the silver fire paint. After reading a bit it seems like the RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1 would be a much better paint for me with this projector?

Is it ok to spray it in several duster coats right over the darker grey silver fire without any priming or should I prime it white and sand first?

If the existing coat is in good shape, like PB sez, lightly sand it using long, light vertical strokes that overlap by 50% of the length of the sponge, dust off, and re-coat. Might actually take 4 Dusters, but they dry quickly.

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post #249 of 751 Old 01-05-2012, 09:20 AM
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Thanks for the relpy MM... Get all my ducks in order and explain the situation to the wife and see how that goes over. ON a side note, having to run the 6100 on dynamic for that pop look has killed the bulb after 1200 hrs so I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on spraying even more.

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post #250 of 751 Old 01-06-2012, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

... you start by adding approx 3o % water to the Mix volume and first judge viscosity (lack thereof actually) by noting how fast the mixed paint literally "pours off" the Squirrel Cage nixing tool. You did use one of those...right?

Can you provide some more info on the "Squirrel cage nixing tool"?

Also, for the 30%... There is 68 oz. listed below. So I mix 68 oz. + 20.4 of ADDITIONAL water? (in addition to the 16 oz. already specified). Is that right?

for
20 oz Liquitex Basics Silver
10 oz Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz Minwax PolyAcrylic Satin Finish
16 oz distilled/tap water**

Finally, what's the gain on this material?

... Altan
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post #251 of 751 Old 01-08-2012, 04:46 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Best guess based on careful comparisons with similarly hued Commercial screen, and using the original v1 paint components.

v2.1 Standard 1.2 gain.

v2.1 Retro is the same, or bordering on 1.3 gain, only darker, with the extra Silver content providing the bulk of the grayer appearance while keeping gain at a constant or slightly elevated level.

PB might revise these slightly upward due to the advent of the Rustoleum and Liquitex, but those figures should stand pretty true.

Per MM:
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post #252 of 751 Old 01-09-2012, 01:12 PM
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Also, if I remember correctly, I read somewhere in this thread that the LL version of the mix has a gain of 1.4-1.5.
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post #253 of 751 Old 01-09-2012, 02:55 PM
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post #254 of 751 Old 01-09-2012, 09:09 PM - Thread Starter
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MadMyers;

the 1/3 water suggestion pertains to the primer. you'll want to add approx 1/3 water to the primer for it to spray well.

as for the LL mix... the water amount given is the minimum. it is sufficient for rolling... however, in cases, addition water is needed when spraying.

the water amount of water needed often depends on the sprayer you will be using.

i use the wagner DD... and to determine the viscosity i need... i use a very fine mesh tea strainer. when i pour the mix through the strainer... in a medium steady stream... the paint never backs up... unless it is full of debris.
it's a good idea to strain a couple of times.

and the second way to determine is to spray a scrap piece... you should get at least a 8-12inch spray plumb from 14-18inch distance.
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post #255 of 751 Old 01-12-2012, 02:06 PM
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PB, I tried sending you a PM, but your mailbox is full...

Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

go with RS-MaxxMudd LL.

I'm using thrifty whiteboard as my substrate. I still, 100% plan on going with RS-MaxxMudd LL paint mix eventually. I'm planning a Daytona 500 viewing party the last weekend in February and am not sure I'll have the time or funds to have the screen painted by then (with the MaxxMudd.). Can you recommend a quickie paint I can spray on to get me by? Of course, it needs to be something that will eventually act as a primer for the MaxxMudd. I'm just looking for something to knock the gloss off. I'm getting really bad hot spotting with the unpainted board.
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post #256 of 751 Old 01-12-2012, 07:03 PM
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Well i have made the leap and purchased most of the items needed except liquitex which i will get at michaels tomorrow. My acer h9500bd is in the shop so i thought it might be the ideal time to redo my screen (helps distract from pj withdrawal).

Here is my current setup

Full ambient light controlled man cave
130 inch screen on drywall, currently with behr silverscreen
Tan walls and carpet except for 4inch black border around screen
Trey ceiling with white paint which makes it difficult to find a decent solution to reflected light without painting the entire room. The 2 foot area above the screen reflects light right back at the viewer. Dont beat me up too bad on the drawing.

I--------------------------- ceiling
--------------
------------
---------- < reflection from bottom of this surface
I
I
I I
I
I



Ceiling mounted projector (dont know the exact distance but its as close as i can get it to the screen with full zoom)

Usage is mostly 3d gaming via HTPC and PS3 through onkyo receiver. No BluRay 3d collection yet. My main issue is reflective light as the room gets lit up by the projector. The wall around the screen, the ceiling immediately above, and the floor below light up like a christmas tree. I am sure this decreases perceived contrast and brightness but i am not a videophile by a longshot and this is my first "real" projector setup. I was considering painting the entire screen wall black or at least a dark, flat color, and moving to a higher gain paint mix. What mix would you suggest knowing that 3d gaming is my primary usage? Any creative/attractive ideas to solve the reflection issues?

Thanks in advance for your advice.
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post #257 of 751 Old 01-13-2012, 01:48 AM
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Reviewing......will respond by Sunday at the latest.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #258 of 751 Old 01-26-2012, 02:44 PM
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BTW - any concerns with the Minwax Polycrylic in this? I know Minwax claims its non-yellowing, but didn't know.

Any chance of screen yellowing after a couple of years?

Just checking before I mix this up in a week or so.
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post #259 of 751 Old 01-31-2012, 12:26 PM
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Hey all. I just sold my 59" Samsung plasma, and I'm ready to make the jump to my first projector! I'm leaning towards the Mitsubishi HC4000, even though it has been out for a while it seems to meet all my requirements at a good price. Use will break down something like 30% games, 30% TV, 30% sports, and 10% movies. Throw distance will be between 10 and 12 feet. I'm in a "mancave" that does have 4 windows with blinds and I will be adding blackout curtains shortly so light isn't an issue though I want the picture to pop and have the ability to watch with some ambient lighting. The walls are a fairly dark grey, with a smooth white ceiling (due to the WAF this isn't changing). I'm thinking of going with a 98" Thrifty Whiteboard DIY screen and painting it with some version of the MaxxMudd v2.1 or Silver Fire. Would like to go 106" but the substrates seem to get considerably more expensive then, 98" will be nice still.

Question:
Which version of MaxxMudd or Silver Fire to go with (or other paint solution)? I want to balance pop with maintaining decent black levels. Coming from a high-end plasma which had inky blacks I won't be able to handle high black levels. Elite projector calculator says I will have 17 fL (13 after break in) with a gain of 1.0 which leads me to think I need something with a slight gain.

How would your recommended paint solution compare to the performance of a Seymour AV Center Stage XD 1.2 gain material?

I really appreciate any recommendations and can't wait to enter the world of projectors!
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post #260 of 751 Old 01-31-2012, 03:31 PM
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JDK, your underplayin' your hand with the 4000.
(
Your expecting a lot out of such a PJ. Now if you do optimize Throw distance, and paint the TWH with S-I-L-V-E-R, you'll get'cher Blacks and PoP, but ambient light performance won't be stellar.

Because the 4000 is only 1300 lumens and just 4K:1 CR, at it's closest reasonable throw (10'-2"") onto a 1.5 gain S-I-L-V-E-R, you'd roll with 33 fls. But be advise the 4000 has a prodigious amount of lens offset (16") that might make it be "very lowdown" off the ceiling.

Or you could get a HD20 (1700 lumens) and be starting out mo' bedder. ( 44 fls @ 10'-11" Throw ) w/only a 9.9" image offset.

But better still, get a $999.00 to $1099.00 deal on a Epson 8350 (2000 lumens) w/no offset, Lens Shift so you can mount it up high, and it would provide deep blacks, astounding colors depth ad give you 49 fls @ 9'-11' and two year Bulb & PJ Warranty

....and, with that PJ, now you can start talkin' Silver Fire 2.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDKruger4 View Post


How would your recommended paint solution compare to the performance of a Seymour AV Center Stage XD 1.2 gain material?

There would be no comparison as far as I'm concerned...and even being slightly biased toward high performance paints, that biased comes as the fruit of extensive use and comparisons.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #261 of 751 Old 01-31-2012, 05:52 PM
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I have an HD33 setup at 13' projected on a wall painted with the Sherwin Williams pro classic paint. The screen size is 110" diagonal 16:9. I have dark walls and floor but the ceiling is white. The room has no windows and is light controlled. I do see sparkling on bright scenes. Would any of these paint formulas help improve picture quality over the current painted wall. Thanks
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post #262 of 751 Old 01-31-2012, 07:22 PM - Thread Starter
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captainmorgan;

hmmm. you got something else going on because the sherwain williams classic has nothing to make it sparkle.... unless what you are talking about is sheen from possible highs of a possible orange peel application...

...but that would be taking a guess... because the sherwain williams pro classic contains no metallics or particles to make it sparkle.
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post #263 of 751 Old 01-31-2012, 07:54 PM
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Capn'

Are you saying you used the SWPC-Satin as the "White" part of a RS-MM-HG mix?

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post #264 of 751 Old 01-31-2012, 07:54 PM
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Not really sparkling I guess. Not sure how to describe it. Speckled noisy in bright white scenes. The surface seems smooth but might have some orange peeling. I did roll the paint on. I would like to try spraying this time. Should I spray the wall again or what would the best option be. I already have the frame built and covered with black velvet. Thank for the help.
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post #265 of 751 Old 01-31-2012, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainmorgan View Post

Not really sparkling I guess. Not sure how to describe it. Speckled noisy in bright white scenes. The surface seems smooth but might have some orange peeling. I did roll the paint on. I would like to try spraying this time. Should I spray the wall again or what would the best option be. I already have the frame built and covered with black velvet. Thank for the help.

I think I answered my own question. Considering the Thread title, and the nature of the query, You used the latest version 2.0 RS-MM . Yes....no?

I searched for a post of yours about the screen, but found no others.
Can you relate again exactly what is in your mix and in what proportions.

A "fix" can be a simple as adding a small amount of diluted UPW Flat to the mix, and re-applying 3 Dusters.

The graininess is a trade off of creating a screen app. that can have gain and high contrast. In this case it's less pronounced than the similar type Mfg.screens. But....DIY leads to a closer. more expectant type of relationship. When it can get to be so good, anything at all off is all the more highlighted.

Case in point. Using the Interior Enamel in Satin to increase gain "without" adding any graininess actually wound up enhancing it in lighter colored versions. For those who notice such, it doesn't go away, no matter how slight the effect is.

I recently experienced a similar end result with a very light, high gain SF.
The screen is so bright and clear, anything "less than" such as the off angle reflective side of the Silver Flakes is like a stuck DLP mirror pixel. The Silver, not the Pearl is the issue. But only in mixes that out of design must "go there".

But spray technique is an important part of using such mixes, and Rolling is not an advisable option at all. Your own rolling certainly us a contributing factor. But a quick 3 Dusters of an adjusted mix and your going to be feeling different.




But as stated, the "Fix" is in, and with your soon to come experience with a Gun, you should knock the respray out in no time.

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post #266 of 751 Old 01-31-2012, 08:31 PM
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Sorry for the confusion. I didn't mix the SW. I just rolled it on out of the can using a 3/16 nap roller. I'm looking to try spaying this time in hopes of a better result. Which mix would work best for my setup. Thanks guys.
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post #267 of 751 Old 02-01-2012, 02:43 PM
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What's available as substrate for a 16:9 screen that's 110" diagonal and where can you buy it? Most of the suggested substrates that I have read about come in 4'x8' sheets max.
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post #268 of 751 Old 02-01-2012, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
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captainmorgan;

sintra / komatex.
there's are recent thread on where to find it... and helpful tips to google and find it at local distributors or sign shops.
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post #269 of 751 Old 02-01-2012, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Reviewing......will respond by Sunday at the latest.

Well, a few sundays have gone by so i went ahead and rolled a modified version of LL (i upped the silver to 16oz). I really took my time and spent 2 days on it and couldnt be happier with the results. Not a rollermark anywhere and its much brighter than my old behr silverscreen. Now i just need to work on the rest of the room. I was thinking of painting the rest of the projection wall black, the remaining walls a dark green, but not sure about the trey ceiling yet.
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post #270 of 751 Old 02-01-2012, 07:17 PM
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pixel67,

Opps....let that one slip by..... That doesn't happen very often...sorry it did in your instance.

But real glad what exposure you had led you to a good solution.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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