The Official RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 699 Old 03-05-2011, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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This thread will serve as the official RS-MaxxMudd V.2.1 Mix... it owes is ancestory to MMudd and these MaxxMudd threads before it.

the original RS-MaxxMudd thread... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ht=rs+maxxmudd
the current RS-MaxxMudd V1 thread... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...axxmudd+thread


RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1 (updated 11-11-2011)


RS-MaxxMudd Retro v.2.1(darkest and highest gain of the rs-maxxmudd mixes, note the amount of SILVER in the mix)

20 oz Liquitex Basics Silver
10 oz Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz Minwax PolyAcrylic Satin Finish
16 oz distilled/tap water**

----------------------------------

RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1
(for low to moderate ambient light)

16 oz Liquitex Basics Silver
16 oz Rustoleom Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
16 oz. distilled/tap water**

----------------------------------

RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1
(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
20 oz. distilled/tap water**
---------------------------------
this is the only mix of the rs-maxxmudd family that can be rolled
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post #2 of 699 Old 03-05-2011, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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1) the easier and simplier to make than ever before. no more champagne metallic to deal with (no need to).
2) and it's more color correct than ever.
3) and by virtue of a higher quality, better quality control, and smaller mica... much like SF v.2... the result is a more
refined visual quality free of graininess even from close range of 2 to 3 feet.

quite honestly... these mixes couldn't be more simple to make... and still retain and excel in quality to screens costing 10x.
more than ever MaxxMudd moves closer to dedicated screen space yet still retaining it's abilty deal with low/modest ambient light,
less than ideal room furnishings, and washout of black level detail from bright scenes.

4 simple ingredients to a truly special screen.
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post #3 of 699 Old 03-05-2011, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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reserved 2.
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post #4 of 699 Old 03-09-2011, 07:48 AM
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Thanks for this. Would you happen to have links to where all the ingredients can be purchased online? The closest Home Depot is an hour away from where I live.
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post #5 of 699 Old 03-09-2011, 08:48 AM
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Everything except the Delta and Liquitex Paints are Home Depot items. The Delta Liquitex paints are found at Michael's Arts & Crafts Stores, or Online at Dick Blicks. http://www.dickblick.com/categories/acrylics/

BTW, Dick Blick has Retail stores in some cities. http://www.dickblick.com/stores/

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post #6 of 699 Old 03-11-2011, 08:09 PM
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pb:

been away for a LONG time.... saw this.

what happened to the gold? I've always pushed blue without it using the delta silver...
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post #7 of 699 Old 03-11-2011, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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the liquitex silver is a more pure acrylic over mica solution than the craft delta silver. it has a higher concentration of mica and the mica is more refined (finer grain). as a result, it's much lighter in color as well.

i'm with you... i prefer a bit a warmer skin tone... but i honestly don't believe it's needed with the liquitex basics silver.

i know you though...

the liquitex basics gold is the one i recommend... if you should feel the need to investigate for yourself.
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post #8 of 699 Old 03-13-2011, 06:15 PM
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Don't rely on that damn Viscosity Cup! If you've read much at all of the prior advice and instructions, you'd note that repeatedly...and always it's stated to never use the viscosity tool to measure how thin the paint should be.

Instead. you start by adding approx 3o % water to the Mix volume and first judge viscosity (lack thereof actually) by noting how fast the mixed paint literally "pours off" the Squirrel Cage nixing tool. You did use one of those...right?

Then you strain the paint, and if it flows through the sock strainer (not a cone type) at at rate equal to the pour-in rate, your good to go, as per the videos linked to just below.....





In this next video, you see how the paint is pooling on top the Filter, making it necessary to pour much more slowly. That is exactly what you DO NOT want to have to do.



To reach the proper lack of viscosity, you might have to first strain, examine the flow-through rate, and if too slow as represented by the last video, rinse out the Flter, add another 2 oz. water, stir and try again. It's worth the effort to do so of course, because once you have achieved the correct thinness, the paint will exit the gun in a finer mist, and at a much more rapid rate.

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post #9 of 699 Old 03-15-2011, 09:37 PM
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Do you need to use Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish with v2.

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post #10 of 699 Old 03-15-2011, 11:06 PM - Thread Starter
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yes. it is a key component to all the V2 mixes... ...both for application and performance.
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post #11 of 699 Old 03-23-2011, 07:38 PM
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a man named Dick Blick? Have you ever met him? Is he related to Dick Trickle?

Patrick

Wow, did the basement really take four years to build out?  It seems like fifteen minutes.... under water!

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post #12 of 699 Old 04-07-2011, 10:56 PM
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I've read through all of the MaxMudd threads (through the different versions) and was hoping someone can give me some guidance or insight into building my media room. A little background. My wife and I are currently having our new house built and it has a dedicate home theater room. The dimensions of the room are 14.5' x 20'. I am trying to keep my projector and screen budget around the $2200 - $2500 range. I have already narrowed down which projector I am leaning towards, an Epson 8700UB. After reading through these posts I was thinking of making a 120" screen using MaxMudd LL painted directly on the puttied, smoothed, and painted wall.

Would the LL paint be the route I should go with in a dedicated media room with lighting controls and with the Epson 8700? Originally I was leaning towards purchasing a 120" Elite Screens EZ Frame screen, but after reading through these forums on the benefits of MaxMudd I am thinking I should go this route. Also, I was thinking of rolling the MaxMudd on vs spraying since I am a novice in the paint gun department. Would anyone recommend going against rolling on MaxMudd LL? I see that this is the only configuration where rolling was acceptable.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice. This is my first projector setup and want to make sure I can get the best picture possible within my budget.
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post #13 of 699 Old 04-08-2011, 02:32 AM
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Spraying is so affordable...easy.....convienient (it's a work site too) and provides the absolute best visual results. Experience is NOT required as we are here to instruct you on the simplicity of it all.

So many Noobs have "been there..done that" before and have accomplished great screen, why should you fear the Reaper?

Of course you can roll RS-MM LL....., but you could also Kiss Your Sister on New Years too. Both are going to be less than satisfactory experiences than you might otherwise aspire to.

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post #14 of 699 Old 04-08-2011, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Spraying is so affordable...easy.....convienient (it's a work site too) and provides the absolute best visual results. Experience is NOT required as we are here to instruct you on the simplicity of it all.

So many Noobs have "been there..done that" before and have accomplished great screen, why should you fear the Reaper?

Of course you can roll RS-MM LL....., but you could also Kiss Your Sister on New Years too. Both are going to be less than satisfactory experiences than you might otherwise aspire to.

Excellent analogy!! I'll go the spray route then once I get started on the project.
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post #15 of 699 Old 04-16-2011, 02:02 PM
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thinking about spraying one of the mixes on my da-lite fixed screen. how do you apply it for spray? how many coats? do you mix all 5 together or are the miniwax/water formulas a top coat?

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post #16 of 699 Old 04-16-2011, 02:17 PM
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Ok guys, I think I am ready to paint my screen! I purchased everything needed so now I just need to build my screen and paint away! Any last minute pointers?
LL
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post #17 of 699 Old 04-17-2011, 11:42 AM
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Should I be looking at RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2 if I'm interested in a high gain DIY screen? I have an RS50 which is lumen challenged in a light controlled room.

So far the highest gain I've seen from a sample screen is the HP 2.4. This won't work for me, though, because my pj is ceiling mounted.

Thank you.
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post #18 of 699 Old 04-17-2011, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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if you are looking for gain... then you'd be using rs-maxxmudd retro v.2 or S-I-L-V-E-R... but these absolutely have to sprayed.
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post #19 of 699 Old 04-23-2011, 07:07 PM
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How would RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2 compare to behr silver screen with white opal pearlescent. Right now i have a planar pd7150 and looks good with that, but i got my hand on a sony vpl-hw15. I want to redo my wall. Reason I want to choose this paint is because it could be rolled. Had plenty of bad experiences with spraying, but I'm a master "roller." Do you think i should switch? I only used the projector at night. Where the screen is is a dark flat brown, and the side walls and ceiling is like an off white/beige color. Screen is 125" diagonal, viewing from 15 feet away, prjector on wall mount over my head.
Thanks
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post #20 of 699 Old 04-24-2011, 01:07 AM
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str8desifer,

It would almost be a silly/crazy comparison.

SS w/WOP represents a "Fix" for basic SS, not anything like a ideally suited application.

Among the biggest difference would be the total amount of reflective elements contained within the RS-MM LL v2 as compared to SS w/WOP. The former has approx 4x as much, in addition to Polyurethane.

Also, the Former has significantly greater gain, yet retains considerable contrast enhancing ability.

So Roll on, Brother. Your assured of getting significantly better results.

But I do suggest you re-prime the old surface back to White so you can avail yourself of the translucent properties of the RS-MM LL v2 and it's ability to use the White under laying surface to some extent to assure the 'whitest white' reproduction possible.

If you opt to instead apply the RS-MM LL v2 directly over the older, darker Gray SS/WOP,(....after a light "sweep sanding"...) you can expect to see even greater contrast enhancement, but some degree of a reduction of Gain. Nothing drastic, mind you....but it will be lessened somewhat.

With either undercoating, here's where your rolling skills will come into play. Apply the top coats as thinly as you can, building up the layers gradually until after any one last coating dries you see no imperfections. Then stop. If you apply the Top Coats thick enough to "Cover", the only part of the application that will have any effect on the image will be the Top Coat. The undercoat will lie hidden and totally passive.

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post #21 of 699 Old 04-24-2011, 09:29 AM
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Thanks MississippiMan, I already have the primer, just need to order some of those supplies. Can't wait to try it out. Thanks for your advice.
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post #22 of 699 Old 06-10-2011, 10:11 AM
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I painted my screen with the original retro version last year. Such an improvement with my Optoma HD65 over the SS and unpainted sintra. I do notice some sparklies on bright white scenes, though. Would the smaller mica in the V.2 mix help with this?

pb_maxxx, I think I noticed you mentioned in a separate thread favoring craft paint over house paint for mixes now? If so, how would you modify the Retro V.2 mix, if at all? Thinking about taking screen back out to garage for a resurfacing with the new mix. Thanks.

Edited to add:

Is this the same Delta pearl that has gone into hiding as mentioned in the Silver Fire V.2 thread?

8 oz Delta Pearl Finish #02601

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post #23 of 699 Old 06-10-2011, 12:52 PM
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Question, after painting Sintra, can I still bend it so I can get it into the basement or will that hurt the paint job? It will only require a little bend, not a drastic amount.

Another question, I currently have a Panny AX200 which has a good amount of lumens but I will be buying a new pj next year which probably won't have as much output. Can I go ahead and put on the LL paint and still get a good picture with the 200 or will it be too bright?

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post #24 of 699 Old 06-10-2011, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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@Adult Beverage;

Would the smaller mica in the V.2 mix help with this?

absolutely. the liquitex basics silver is a much more refined silver than the delta craft paints. and since the majority of maxxmudd retro is comprised of the the silver... i think you'll like the results. far less graininess and devoid of sparklies.

pb_maxxx, I think I noticed you mentioned in a separate thread favoring craft paint over house paint for mixes now?

actually, with V2.1 of all silver fire and maxxmudd mixes... the goal is get rid of both the house paints and the craft paints. as we've seen recently with delta craft paints...the lack of quality control of the metallics from batch to batch left us no choice but go with more professional fine artist quality acrylic pigments.

how would you modify the Retro V.2 mix, if at all?

at some point tonight i'll be updating both the silver fire and maxxmudd family to V2.1
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post #25 of 699 Old 06-10-2011, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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@stepyourgameup;

bending up to 45% after painting is no problem with sintra.

the LL mix is not too bright for the AX200 or whatever new 1080p pj you choose to select. as a near white with considerbly improved contrast over white... it's one heck of a dedicated ht screen.
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post #26 of 699 Old 06-10-2011, 11:25 PM - Thread Starter
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RS-MaxxMudd V.2.1 family of formula's updated.
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post #27 of 699 Old 06-11-2011, 08:46 AM
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I'm guessing that with the MuddMaxx formulas, you are not custom tinting the paint at the paint counter. The tinting is done with the silver and pearl ingredients? I need the low to medium ambient light solution. Thanks!
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post #28 of 699 Old 06-11-2011, 10:12 AM
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Get yourself a clean empty, seal-able container (HD, Lowes and other hardware stores sell empty paint containers), pick up a paint stir attachment (squirrel cage) for a power drill while you are at it and measuring cups. Measure and pour the listed ingredients into the paint can and using the stirring attachment mix your ingredients thoroughly. Easy, peasy.
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post #29 of 699 Old 06-17-2011, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

RS-MaxxMudd V.2.1 family of formula's updated.

Apologies for the silly super noob questions, but I really have no idea what I'm doing: where is the 2.1 formula located? Did you edit the first post in this thread? Is there a 2.1 version for the LL formula?

Last time I did this I put down 2 coats of primer then two coats of high gloss. Then I put three coats of the Mudd formula. Is this still the same process? If so, what primer and what high gloss do I use?
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post #30 of 699 Old 06-17-2011, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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the front page has been edited with the V2.1 formulas for all of the rs-maxxmdd family.. including the LL version.

no need for primer and high gloss...
first make sure your screen surface is baby butt smooth.. then just a solid 2 coats of UPW flat or eggshell such as Behr 1850 will suffice for your primer and basecoat (all in one)

if your substrate is already white...such as sintra or thrifty white or DW... then there is no need for an additional white basecoat.

if you spray the basecoat then continue on with V2.1 LL...
otherwise if you roll the basecoat then check to make sure you don't have a bunch of texture... as LL is fairly forgiving in that regard.
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