a most excellent NEW screen material from Menards - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 83 Old 10-07-2011, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coastercard View Post

Would you suggest putting a black velvet or black felt around the outside of the board? Or is it best to leave as is?

Black ve;vet. The best looking and best performing material to use.

Pretty cheap too:
http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/P...Velvet/681/264

Black Felt is just plain tacky...unless it was/is the only possible choice in a dire situation, and under that circumstance it's a tremendous improvement over any Black, non-textured paint.

No Boarder? Zero Edge, eh? It would at least need a frame around the perimeter of the rear edge for support if hung. Not if glued upon the Wall though. Still best to have at least a 1" boarder.

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post #32 of 83 Old 10-07-2011, 06:19 PM
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Thanks MM you've been a big help to me directly the past few days.

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post #33 of 83 Old 10-26-2011, 06:28 AM
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OK, I've got all the paints for the rs-maxxmudd ll v2.1 except for the Rustoleum Metallic Accents White Pearl, which Menard's shows they have. Intending to p/u the melamine board at Menard's on Friday as well. Purchased the Gleem no name paint sprayer (Graco) that Mississippi Man has repeatedly posted links to. I plan on nailing the screen to the wall, then placing a border flush with the top and bottom, and overlapping the sides, covering the nails. Could I use 1x3's wrapped with velvet to do this? How about 2 - 3"x49" strips of the melamine cut from the original 97" for the sides? Or some other option? I can purchase the velvet at Hobby Lobby.

I'm thinking of having Menard's cut the melamine to 89" - does that sound right?

Also, do I need the nylon strainer to perform the strain test? It's no problem, as I can pick that up at Menard's as well.

Anything else I'm missing? My DIY skills are very average, BTW.

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post #34 of 83 Old 10-26-2011, 07:21 AM
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Many thanks to pb_maxxx for the tip on this. My son moved out and took the WADW screen we had built so I needed a replacement. I picked up the melamine over the weekend. My room is in the basement so light control is not an issue. In a short time I mitered a 1X4 pine frame & assembled it with L brackets. We are wrapping it with black velvet and I will screw the melamine to the frame from behind having left 1-1/2 overlap when I cut it. I am using an 8' carpet trim strip from Lowes (around $8) cut in half making a french cleat to hang it. I have a grand total of $61 in the project. The cheapest price I found for Sintra was $50 for 4X8. Maybe I'll spring for some rope light...
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post #35 of 83 Old 10-26-2011, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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auge.dog;

i know it's 1/4" hardboard... but do not nail the board to the wall. pre-drill the holes and screw the board in... making sure to hit at least 1 stud of each side. screw them semi-flush but do not ratchet them down... as the board is just thin enough to possibly bow if your wall is not perfectly flat.

when doing the trim... you are welcome to tack fine finish nails into the melamie hardboard.

as for cutting... unlike lowe's and ht... most menards' do not have a ripping saw... so you'll like have to cut/rip it on your own.

as for boarders... use the ranch-stop style 3" mdf baseboards to wrap the velvet in.
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post #36 of 83 Old 10-26-2011, 12:21 PM
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Got it and thanks, pb_maxxx. I'll have to borrow the saw from my Brother-in-law, but not a problem. I'll provide updates as I go.

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post #37 of 83 Old 10-30-2011, 12:35 AM
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Sorry I'm a bit late to this thread, but I have been using this material as my screen for close to 4 years now. The down side is that I would like to go a bit bigger now (this 4' X 8' sheet just barely fit in my minivan) and also when I had my neighbor help me stick it to my basement cinderblock wall (my neighbor is an old dry wall man) his slapping of the material to adhere it the wall caused slight dents in the screen visible in monocolor/bright white scenes. About 4 months ago I decided to get a new panel only to find that Menards no longer carries the material-and this is after they remodeled and expanded all their local stores!
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post #38 of 83 Old 10-30-2011, 01:04 AM
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It is on sale at my location for 19.99 until the Nov. 6, 2011.
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post #39 of 83 Old 11-01-2011, 08:31 AM
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They had plenty in Massillon, OH a week ago - was on sale for 18.99 - SKU is 1361896.
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post #40 of 83 Old 11-01-2011, 12:24 PM
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I've got a sintra screen just laying against my wall for a few weeks while trying to decide how to mount it. It now has a slight bow to it. How can I mount it to my wall and not have the bow in it? I originally thought I could just use 4 screws on the corners but not now with the bow in the center. I want to be able to take it down in the future so the mount system can't be permanent like MM mentioned in another thread using glue I think to mount one.

Should I just use 4 screws across the top and 4 across the bottom while someone else holds it flat against the wall?
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post #41 of 83 Old 11-01-2011, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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lay it something entire flat... some books resting where the bow is at... the sintra will take to the flat surface within a couple of days. then mount with screws across the top letting it hang freely at the bottom for a couple days. later mount screws on bottom if you must.
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post #42 of 83 Old 11-01-2011, 02:32 PM
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If you place the Sintra against the wall with the "bulge side" against the wall, then screw down the top edge first, gravity and a physical touch will allow the Sintra to lay flat. It's best to screw down the sides first, from top to bottom...the screw across the bottom edge last.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #43 of 83 Old 11-01-2011, 03:39 PM
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ok, thanks. The bulge side must be out because the other side has slight damage, but I get the drift of what to do.


Edit - I guess drywall anchors are overkill, yes, how about just those black drywall screws?
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post #44 of 83 Old 11-02-2011, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auge.dog View Post

I can purchase the velvet at Hobby Lobby.

Little late reply on this but just wanted to throw this out there. Hobby Lobby, at least the ones here in Houston, do carry black triple velvet (even labeled as such) with the same material make-up as the website everyone is generally pointed to. It is priced higher, BUT Hobby Lobby about 50% or more of the time has a coupon for 40% off on their website that you can print out and take in to use on a "single product purchase", and a single cut of fabric counts as a single product and therefore is applicable for the coupon. Shoot, you don't even have to actually print it out because if you pull it up on your phone, just showing it to them on your screen is good enough!! This discount, plus tax (at least in my case) came out to be slightly cheaper than the price from the Syfabrics website would have been after adding shipping. Not much, but a little, and hey, I didn't have to wait to get it. Can't say I've compared what Syfabrics is selling with what Hobby Lobby is selling, but there ya have it. The stuff from Hobby Lobby is very nice and has a nice medium nap, so I suspect it's comparable.

There ya have it, take it for what it's worth!!

Cheers,

Buck
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post #45 of 83 Old 11-09-2011, 07:45 AM
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OK, got the sheet at Menard's for $18.99. ALso got the last paint I needed while I was there (the Metallic Pearl White) along with some finish nails and multi-purpose screws. Project starts tomorrow or Friday. Hopefully, I won't mess it up too badly.

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post #46 of 83 Old 11-09-2011, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auge.dog View Post

OK, got the sheet at Menard's for $18.99. ALso got the last paint I needed while I was there (the Metallic Pearl White) along with some finish nails and multi-purpose screws. Project starts tomorrow or Friday. Hopefully, I won't mess it up too badly.

Any questions...just ask before you jump. Otherwise....make sure you land on your head so we don't have to bother with ya!

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #47 of 83 Old 11-10-2011, 12:58 PM
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OK, went to hang/attach the melamine today and realized I had to cut it first. I have a friend bringing the necessary power tool tonight. So, since I had some time, I went ahead and mixed the paints/water in the correct amounts for rs-maxxmudd ll v2.1. I then fed it through the appropriate nylon strainer, and it strained pretty slowly. So I added 6 oz of water, then another 6 oz, and finally, another 4 oz. While it's straining quicker, it still is not straining as fast as I pour it in. Before I continue to add more water, is it normally necessary to add a significant amount of water to the mix to get it thin enough? I'm thinking it's going to take at least 12more oz and maybe considerably more before it strains as quickly as I poor it through. Just want to make sure what I'm doing is on the right track.

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post #48 of 83 Old 11-10-2011, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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it shouldn't take another 12oz...
...but at any rate...slow down to adding 2oz of water at a time now.

yes... when spraying, most people regularly have to add more water to the mix. it's easier to add a little more water to the mix than the reverse.
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post #49 of 83 Old 11-14-2011, 08:45 AM
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Well, I got the saw Thursday night, and cut the board on Friday. I also was able to hang it, along with the plastic in prep of painting. However, at that point, I ran out of time, as kids and other activities took over. I compared the board with the BOC before I hung it, and thought the image I projected looked almost identical on both surfaces. However, even without paint and the border, the melamine currently provides a 'cleaner' look as the image now fits perfectly on the board. I'm hoping the application of the paint and border take it to the next lever. However, even if only a modest improvement, I'll be happy, as the image now fits the screen.

BTW, I used screws to attach the board to the wall, and was able to find studs at one end and near the middle. I have screws attached to the studs at the top and bottom, I also have screws on the other end (top and borrom) as well as a few screws down the length of the left and right sides. I did not wratchet them down, and the board is sitting flat on the wall.

I probably will not get to start the paint process until Thanksgiving week. pb_maxx, thanks for all the help so far.

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post #50 of 83 Old 11-14-2011, 09:32 AM
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Just a couple quick questions on the paint. I did not find a squirrel cage mixer at Home Depot, so I used this one - http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...42&R=202251542

It seemed to work very well, but just wanted to make sure I did not make some sort of fatal or fixable flaw.

Also, I did not mix the colors and then the water and Minwax. I just put them all in the bucket and mixed. They also seemd to mix together well, again with no problem. However, again, I just to make sure I did not commit some fatal or fixable flaw.

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post #51 of 83 Old 11-14-2011, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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auge.dog;

i wish you had asked these questions, read more, or followed the instructions more precisely.

basically what you did in mixing the the colorant, water, and poly all at once was to make a silver fire 6.0+

the colorant needs to be added LAST... and only the proper amount for your screen. ...ie for a silver fire v2.5 3.0 screen then only 3oz of colorant is added.
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post #52 of 83 Old 11-15-2011, 05:22 AM
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pb_maxx, I'm doing the rs-maxxmudd ll v2. mix, not the silver fire mix. I only used the amount of silver and white called for in that mix. At the time the recipe called for 16 oz of liquitex silver, 8 oz of liquitex titanium white, and 16 oz rustoleum metallic white pearl. I see the recipe change on 11/11/11 to Behr - but I used the exact amounts called for in the previous version. I have read several of these threads pretty extensively, and read about the squirrel mixer, however, Home Depot did not have one, and the one I used seemed to work pretty well and was recommended.

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post #53 of 83 Old 11-15-2011, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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oops. sorry. when you said colors, that confused me.
yep. with maxxmudd... just mix every at in a bucket at same time.
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post #54 of 83 Old 11-16-2011, 06:00 AM
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No problem at all, pb_maxx. You are constantly helping several people with several projects, so I'm sure it gets confusing who is doing what at any given time. Anyway, my paint drained through the nylon net without having to add any additional water. I think I was pouring it too slowly initially.

So, I thought I'd put the first few duster coats on last night, and I believe I put the first coat on much too slowly as it started to run. I then put on a 2d coat, just to see if I could get it right, and it did not run at all. I think I got the hang of it now. Anyway, the running left some texture, so I'm thinking based on other threads, I need a 3M fine sanding sponge to gently sand away the texture, and then I can resume with the dusters.

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post #55 of 83 Old 11-16-2011, 09:06 AM - Thread Starter
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yep. 3m sanding sponge. sand the textured area. then sand the entire screen so it flows smooth into/around the textured area.

then re-shoot.
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post #56 of 83 Old 11-17-2011, 09:05 AM
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Got the sanding sponge and sanded the textured areas smooth, although you could still see the runs. I then applied 2 more dusters, another coat that I applied just a hair more slowly and then another duster. By the 3rd coat, you could no longer see the runs, and it is really starting to look good. You can no longer see the runs, and those areas are all smooth. When I felt the screen this morning, it felt pretty smooth, but it had a very slight pebbly feel to it over the entire board. Will a few more dusters smooth it out even more so?

I was planning on applying 2-3 more dusters tonight, and then be done with the painting. Sound about right? And thanks again for all the help - it is very much appreciated and has made this project doable for me.

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post #57 of 83 Old 11-17-2011, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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brush sand (larger sweeping stroke) the entire surface lightly...
then follow with your final dusters.
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post #58 of 83 Old 11-21-2011, 06:05 AM
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On Thurs Night, 17 Nov, I brush sanded and put on the last 3 dusters. Friday, I pulled down all the plastic and painter's tape, and turned the projector on. Put in Avatar in Blu-ray, and it looked great. I then put up the 8 inch board of melamine that I sawed off in the beginning to see if I could tell what difference the paint made, if any.

With some ambient light on, which included some cans that hit the screen, I could definately see where on the plain white melamine, the light washed away some of the image. While the light washed away some of the image on the painted surface, it was not nearly as noticeable, and the improvement could easily be seen. When I turn off all the lights, the difference was only really noticeable in dark scenes, where the blacks were clearly darker, and the image had more depth.

My wife came down and even commented how great it looked, and she never indulges my video/audio purchases/projects. She and my kids both commented that the image looked 3D, and my wife also noticed the differences with the lights on, and in the black levels with the lights off.

So for anyone debating whether to paint your white melamine or other screen for that matter, I can definately say you will see a noticeable improvement in ambient light conditions and an improvement in dark scenes in controlled lighting situations. Again, these improvements are noticeable within 24 hours of applying the last coat of paint.

A big shout out to pb_maxx for all his help along the way. Aug

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post #59 of 83 Old 01-26-2012, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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here's a current link... currently on sale for $18.99

http://www.menards.com/main/building...288-c-5701.htm
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post #60 of 83 Old 02-01-2012, 08:55 AM
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is Komatex the same as Sintra?
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