What paint for Epson 8350 in light controlled room? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-05-2011, 03:19 PM - Thread Starter
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First off, thanks to all of you who have posted all these copious amounts of information about screens, light, colors and paints. It is amazing how much information there is here.

I've spent the last week reading threads here (all the way back to stuff from '06), and i feel reasonably educated, but i'd like some input from others.

Layout:

I have an Epson 8350 in a room that's just shy of 12'x14'. 8' high drop ceiling. Projector and seating (currently 1 reclining sofa) are centered on one of the 14' walls, the screen will go on the opposite wall (duh!). Currently projecting on the bare wall. Throw distance is about 10', creating an image 98" diagonal.

The room is in the basement. No windows. One door (center of the left wall) to another windowless room. I am planning to paint the walls and ceiling a dark tint / color to minimize reflections, and will possibly put a dark rug on the floor.

Light situation:

I can have a black cave by closing the door for when i want to watch a movie. But regularly we'll watch some TV and sometimes we'll perhaps have dinner there. Typically we'll leave the door open in those cases, and as a result will have a little bit of ambient light coming from the stairs on the far side of the other room.

I am planning to add some form of lighting in the room to have on when we want to have dinner there for example, so i'm thinking perhaps recessed cans over the sofa, or some other type of spotlight that i can control.

Level of DYI:

I've build a simple painter BO cloth screen 8 years ago for my old CRT projector setup (Marquee 8500LC), and i'm not unhandy I already bought a Thrifty White Hardboard the other night I have a compressor, and a HVLP gun from Harbor Freight that i never used. I checked and the nozzle tip is 2.0mm (which i understand is probably too big, would need a 1.5mm?) I've never done any spray painting. I rolled my old BO cloth screen with Behr UPW years ago, and wasn't thrilled about my skills doing that. I'm just not a good painter apparently

So given these parameters, what would you recommend, and why? I see both MaxxMudd and Silver Fire for example, and i'm not sure what the pros and cons of each are, much less which one would be more suitable for my situation.

Thanks for your input!

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post #2 of 13 Old 12-05-2011, 05:08 PM
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I like the potential inherent in your set-up.

Silver Fire 3.0

Eyeball Spots are the ticket.

Deep Greens or Blues are the Colors I'd choose.

1.5 mm Tip

Get'er Dun!

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post #3 of 13 Old 12-06-2011, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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So that's the "what"... what about the "why"? Why not MaxxMudd for example?

And - Isn't the purpose of these mixes to help fight ambient light? If i have full control over the light, dark walls etc, wouldn't just a white screen work just fine?

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post #4 of 13 Old 12-06-2011, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertjan View Post

So that's the "what"... what about the "why"? Why not MaxxMudd for example?

And - Isn't the purpose of these mixes to help fight ambient light? If i have full control over the light, dark walls etc, wouldn't just a white screen work just fine?

Not with the 8350, whose Contrast Levels as far a deep Blacks are not really "interstellar" in nature.

That's the "why".

RS-MaxxMudd would offer an improvement over any "White"...that is a given. But no where near as much as SF v2.5 3.0

And....you did mention "Dinner" and having some lights on....even if they are "Directed" to stay within a specific area.

That's my recommendation and I'm stickin' to it.

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post #5 of 13 Old 12-08-2011, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Alright, sounds like i'm going to be doing some painting then I posted a few more questions over in the Silver Fire thread here. I would appreciate any illumination you can provide.

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post #6 of 13 Old 12-08-2011, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertjan View Post

If i have full control over the light, dark walls etc, wouldn't just a white screen work just fine?


What you've said is one pre-requisite for a white screen. The next is that you don't have enough lumens to properly illuminate a gray screen. There will ALWAYS be some extra light hitting the screen. No bat cave is perfect, there's always some reflection. In a good bat cave you may not notice the difference between white and gray, but turn on a light and you will. So go white if you have a bat cave AND you don't have the lumens to drive a gray screen. That's not your case.

A 98" screen has around 28 square feet of area. An 8350 puts out around 500 lumens in Natural mode (Best Color.) 500/28=18 ftL at 1.0 gain. Plenty to go gray.
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post #7 of 13 Old 12-12-2011, 08:27 AM
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Have the Lights gone out in Georgia or sumpthin' ?

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post #8 of 13 Old 12-12-2011, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Hah, fortunately no! Been busy, real life getting in the way of my hobby etc, you know how that goes...

I still want to try to a Silver Fire screen. However, my schedule is not going to allow me to take care of that in 1 weekend, especially with all the Christmas and such coming up. Still gotta buy a sprayer, and i expect i'll have to practice a few times to get it right, and so before you know it, with my schedule, it'll be several weeks before that'd be done.

In the mean time i did want to have something instead of just the bare cream colored wall though. So this weekend i did the "neutral gray + poly" from the Beginner's Delight thread. I just rolled that straight onto the wall (well, did 2 coats of primer), and was able to knock that out pretty quickly. It's a vast improvement over the "bare wall" situation obviously, and looks pretty darn good to me already. And it confirms to me that something gray is indeed a good solution. (Coming from CRT, i was doubtful about such a solution.)

This will allow me to spend the little bit of free time i have available on getting the rest of the room addressed as well, such as painting the walls and the ceiling, building speaker stands, etc, while still being able to enjoy TV and / or a movie at night on a pretty decent screen.

Then in parallel i can work on building my SF screen I'll need to order a sprayer, set up an area where i can do the spraying, and then practice and do it. Now the time pressure is off, and i can do it at my leisure and enjoy this as a learning experience. This is, after all, a hobby, and the journey is part of it.

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post #9 of 13 Old 12-12-2011, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertjan View Post

This is, after all, a hobby, and the journey is part of it.

Waaaaahhhh!

Are we there yet?

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post #10 of 13 Old 12-19-2011, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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So having watched stuff on this projector on the grey (~N8) + poly painted wall, the Natural and Cinema settings are very dim compared to the Dynamic setting (as to be expected). Normally i'm all for accurate (and so i started with the Natural and Cinema settings), but the difference is quite amazing. With the Dynamic mode, stuff really "pops" more and is way more "window-like" to me. Avatar for example looks much more life-like to me with the Dynamic mode (i did calibrate some by eye to get more accurate colors and brightness / contract, going to finally buy a meter thingy on the near future to properly calibrate it)

How much of the Cinema / Natural modes being so dim is attributable to the ~N8 grey paint? And how would SF 3.0 compare to this?

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post #11 of 13 Old 12-19-2011, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertjan View Post


How much of the Cinema / Natural modes being so dim is attributable to the ~N8 grey paint? And how would SF 3.0 compare to this?


The aforementioned Modes are both significantly reduced in lumen output, primarily to allow for a deeper contrast level that is not possible with unadulterated Lumen output. But using such is a case of "Robbing Peter to Pay Paul" because you lose the "PoP that makes for a more vibrant image. Shoot such attenuated lumen output onto a sub 1.0 gain surface and things only get duller.

Natural & Living Room are the most accurate "brighter" modes, but since SF v2.5 3.0 is estimated at at least 1.2+ gain, you can be sure they will deliver something far better to your eyes than a 0.9 Gray

Personally, I'd suggest 2.0 as being a nearly identical match to the ~N8, but it would make the latter seem dismally dull in comparison. The 3.0 is to be considered "Icing on the Cake" since a well calibrated "Dynamic Mode" will light up the screen while the SF 3.0 will deliver the best black levels possible without using a lower lumen output.

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post #12 of 13 Old 12-20-2011, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Sounds good to me Now i just gotta finish a couple other projects around the house first before i can build the screen

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post #13 of 13 Old 12-20-2011, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertjan View Post

Sounds good to me Now i just gotta finish a couple other projects around the house first before i can build the screen


I see that written a lot. Seems pretty standard. Aspire to get'ter dun!

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