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post #1 of 8 Old 12-06-2011, 09:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been lurking here ever since I put the original screen together in the first part of the year. Recently I've decided to start over from scratch, paint and all. I tend to finish things slowly. I've asked various questions in various threads with various amounts (thanks!) of very helpful information. Having too many questions and not wanting to take over threads or spam the hell out of the already-overly-generous know-it-alls here, I decided to just make my own thread and let it live or die depending on interest and effort. Anything you want to tell me or suggest would be appreciated, even if it's really mean and condescending or whatever.

I've got three pictures of the theater room (living room) that I think will give a decent idea of what I'm working with. Room is about 20 X 14, two windows (one blocked by screen, other blacked-out). Stairs on opposite end of blacked-out window and dining room through doorway behind pictured sofa. Pictures:


This is from the entrance to the dining room. The stairs are to my right. Forgive the mess. Screen is about 105", so let's say 100" after the trim and all. Note the couch angle for later...


Here is the room from further up the right side, my back to the stairs. You can see the projector on the far-left media shelf and the screen on the right. Projector is a Panasonic PT-AX100U until I can save up enough money to do this whole process over again. Room gets even messier, I know.


Lastly, a closer shot of the unfinished screen. It's basically a pine frame painted black and reinforced with metal brackets. BOC is stretched over and stapled. Nothing fancy yet.

This is the first time I've uploaded pictures of this sort, and now I understand why most all the other shots I see look so amateurish and grainy. Forgive the lack of quality, please.

So my basic plan is to construct a typical frame of velvet-wrapped trim and paint the screen one of the two popular mixes here. I've got the much-loved gun and the velvet is on the way. Trim can easily be obtained. Depending on what mix I go with, the paints will also be easily had.

My first and obvious question is which mix I should choose. Having read both threads and various others, I'm inclined to choose Silver Fire for the boost in perceived contrast and because sometimes my roommates aren't willing to kill every light. If I ran the calculator correctly, I'm sitting somewhere in the neighborhood of 20-25fls or lamberts or whatever. Controlling the light isn't really the biggest issue, though; this is used for movies 90% of the time and if I had to choose between deeper blacks and video games in the daytime, I'd go black, black, black. I can't really paint any of the walls, sadly. Perhaps there is an ideal middle-ground. I'm sorry that this question has surely already been posed by many before.

Another thing I'm not sure about is the viewing cone. I understand what it means, essentially, but not exactly what happens when one falls out of it. Is the couch pictured above beyond, say, 30%? Should I be considering a new furniture arrangement? Which mix is better with the viewing cone issue?

Lastly, my frame. I have this wild hair to build the frame away from the screen... that is, what if I were to mount the trim on strips around the image, causing it to 'float' on top, much like a shallow shadow box? Were I to wrap these strips of 3" or so in velvet as well, would this be advisable for any reason?

This is already way too long. Thank you, if you've read the whole thing, and thank you even more if you have any answers to my questions or just thoughts on things I could improve beyond 'tidy up'.
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-07-2011, 01:50 AM
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Dennis,

Are you planning to paint there on location, or tote the Screen out to the garage? ( I hope)

Viewing Cone-wise you'll be OK, but mounting the PJ higher and placing the Couch more toward center can only be more advantageous.

Silver Fire v2.5 4.0

Still a little Foggy on the Trim. I can see the staples around the edges...so those must be covered. What are the exact dimensions of the Screen "as is"?

You will want to relocate the lights I can see. No need to make things any more difficult, so in the least place the Lamps more further way from the Screen wall than they seem to be.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-07-2011, 04:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll paint it in the garage, yeah. I hadn't considered the height of the projector to matter much, I suppose. What effect does that have on the screen image? For the trim: basically I would construct a frame of velvet-wrapped trim and push it away from the screen itself an inch or two, sinking it in from the frame, in effect. Is this pointless? The trim, regardless, will cover the staples, yes. The unfinished screen, frame and all, are 4' X 8'.
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-07-2011, 04:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Also what should I tell my deadbeat roommates when they grumble about things like 'sparklies' and 'hotspotting'?
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-07-2011, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Moore View Post

Also what should I tell my deadbeat roommates when they grumble about things like 'sparklies' and 'hotspotting'?

Looking around the room they live in, I'd tell them to dial back on the meth--it's affecting their eyesight.
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-07-2011, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh God it's the meth?
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-10-2011, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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OK just to review: I'm going to prime the BOC with a couple light dusters. I'll sand it lightly after each coat. Two dusters then of SF 2.5 4.0 followed by two full coats, followed by a duster. I've read every thread I could and watched all your videos, MM, but it seems like the order and number of dusters/full coats/duster(s) changes at times. The final duster is optional, yeah? What is the best way to determine whether it is needed? I imagine that I'll be extremely conservative in spraying, perhaps too much so, so maybe I should do the final duster just in case? I'm fearful of applying too much, of course, but I want to make sure I've got enough on there. Something I haven't seen asked or mentioned: any need to lightly dust between SF coats, considering I'm painting BOC? Final question: I will be doing this in the garage, and right now it is pretty cold. I plan on having a fan on the thing, but will the weather have adverse effects on the drying/setting of the paint?

Thanks again for encouragement and hand-holding... you've a lot of patience and generosity to be dealing with folks like myself over and over and over again with only the satisfaction of sharing in return.
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post #8 of 8 Old 12-11-2011, 02:08 AM
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Hi Dennis,

Yeah....spraying can be...leastwise for me...a lesson in adaptability. Paint viscosity, temperature, humidity, surface condition, and the depth of the color used all can play a part in the "adjusting" of what is "normal painting procedure".

However some things remain fairly consistent, or should be so for those just attempting their first go at Screen painting. Painting BOC surfaces (rubbery side) adds a few extra "must do's" as well.

1. Applying two Dusters of thinned Primer with 70% overlap to create a "Tack Surface", both left to dry for 30 minutes minimum under "normal" drying conditions.

2. Sanding lightly after the 2nd Duster to remove any "Fuzzies"

3. Applying a "Normal" coat of Primer with 70% overlap , allowing to dry for 1 hr. and inspecting for any "Fuzzies". Sanding very lightly again is still advisable.

4. Apply the next 3 coats of SF as Dusters with 70% overlap. No Fuzzies? No more sanding.

5. 2 "Normal Coats" and you should be done

6. For the weak at heart, sticking to doing all Dusters until total, even coverage is acquired is the safest route to take. Usually 7-8 Dusters do it nicely.


"normal" drying conditions.
Temperatures of 65 degrees or higher. Use heaters if required. Cold does affect paint application / curing. If evaporation is too slow, even a light coating can congeal and slide, or in the least, a decided "mottling" or "Orange Peel" appearance will occur. A Fan blowing cold air isn't enough, and blowing air onto wet paint is a recipe for getting hair, dust, and such onto the screen surface. I pre-heat a room as warm as possible before a coating, turn off all fans (except a "outlet" window fan if used) while squirting, wait until the "wet sheen" is gone, the direct a "Clean & Elevated" Fan at medium speed to hasten drying. Usually, even a normal coat will dry in 45 minutes to 1 hr- under normal Temps/Humidity, and a Fan's assistance. Added heat can reduce that by 15 minutes. Dusters should take no more than 30 minutes normally, less is it's nice and warm.

"Normal Coats" Whereas a Duster involves moving across the surface at 3 ft sec. , a Normal Coat slows down to 1.5' second....or 1/2 the speed of a Duster.

Spraying Distance (14"-16") and previous Row overlap (70%) are identical with both applications.

Heavy wet coats can produce an unwanted "sheen" even with Flat, highly Reflective paints. The final "Dusters" are intended to mute such potential sheen issues. Obviously, if all Dusters are used, it's a moot issue.

The singular most important thing is to be certain the Gun/Paint combo is working together to produce an even, full pattern w.no spitting or surging. That is what practice is important. It always pays to be able to see how well you pattern is laying down on another surface other than a precious Screen surface. Especially BOC, a surface where wiping off a botched attempt just isn't possible.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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