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post #1 of 20 Old 12-08-2011, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello all,

Got my projector installed (Epson 8350), as well as put in some in-wall speakers. Next step in the screen, which I'm hoping to do this weekend. I'm doing a 130" screen, which I'll be painting directly onto drywall. Per MississippiMan's suggestions, I'm going with the Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 formula. I've got all the ingredients listed, plus white Killz primer, and a Wagner Paint sprayer.

I think I've also gathered from the different threads all the directions I need down below. Just had a couple questions.

(1) How many coats would I have to do, and how long in between?
(2) Will this be enough paint to cover 130" (possible multiple coats)
(3) Any tips/techniques for a 1st time paint sprayer? I bought a paint strainer per the directions.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

Materials available at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Dick Blicks, Home Depot, Menards, or most any Artist Supply or Hobby Stores.

*Last and Final update/revision - 10/23/2011

SILVER FIRE V2.5

(Color Components)
100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
16ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
9ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

(Viscosity Components)
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish
24 - 36 oz. Distilled or Filtered water*

(Reflective Base Components)*
Silver Fire v2.5 hue (in ounces - oz) 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0
Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl* 20 21 22 23 24
Liquitex Basics Silver 20 21 22 23 24
Liquitex Basics Titanium White 10 10 10 10 10
Liquitex Basics Gold 1.50 1.75 2.00 2.25 2.50

* Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl is currently found only at Menards or online.

*the 'base' & 'viscosity' components are to mixed separately from the 'colorant' components.

*Graco electric sprayer starts with 24oz. of water mininum. Wagner DD - 24oz minimum. Wagner CS - 36oz minimum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post

1) mix the base and viscosity components all together in a gallon container.

2) once you've selected your measuring utensils of choice (i personally use the kitchen aid spoons...while others prefer cooking syringes) then your ready to get started mixing the colorant.

3) mix the colorants separately using two smaller containers/bowls. one container is for mixing the colorant and the other is for rinsing the mixing utensils. divide the 100ml of water... putting 50ml into each container.

4) after measuring out each color in the colorant container... thoroughly rinse out the measuring utensil in the rinsing container... and continue on with the next color pigment.

5) after you are done measuring each color pigment and thoroughly rinsing your utensils... then mix/combine the colorant bowl/container with the rinsing bowl/container and mix throughly. this will make a little over 6oz of colorant.

6) then depending of which hue of silver fire you've decide on... you add the correct ounces of colorant to the base/viscosity container and mix thoroughly with a squirrel cage mixer.

7) before you spray... you MUST strain your paint... to remove particles that will clog your spray gun and/or get sprayed as large clumps leaving screen artifacts that will bug you to no end.


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post #2 of 20 Old 12-09-2011, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapriett View Post

Hello all,



I think I've also gathered from the different threads all the directions I need down below. Just had a couple questions.

(1) How many coats would I have to do, and how long in between?
(2) Will this be enough paint to cover 130" (possible multiple coats)
(3) Any tips/techniques for a 1st time paint sprayer? I bought a paint strainer per the directions.

Thanks!

(1) Doing Dusters alone....7-8 coats Otherwise 3 Dusters and 2 slightly heavier coats.

(2) Should be but that means very little available for any practicing.

(3) That's a loaded question that you should try your best to look for the answers on the Threads I've authored or Contributed to. I'd usually oblige but my time is severely limited today.

But...watch my videos....do dusters only to be safe....don't rush between coats....clean Gun Head between coats....be sure the Gun is properly assembled and the Spray Nozzle assembly is seated correctly or "spitting and surging" will occur....swish paint around in the Gun's tank before next coat....maintain a 7% overlap on each proceeding row....always run off the side and return, never "drop" within the Screen's viewable area....

....seems I can never resist.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #3 of 20 Old 12-09-2011, 08:26 AM
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Quote:


....maintain a 7% overlap on each proceeding row....

that would be 70% overlap.
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post #4 of 20 Old 12-09-2011, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

that would be 70% overlap.

That's what being in too big a hurry can do.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #5 of 20 Old 12-09-2011, 02:53 PM
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Since you haven't primed yet, you can use the primer to practice. You can also use the primer to get a feel for how thin the paint needs to be when using the sprayer. Practice spraying dusters and full coats using the primer until you've acheived even, full coverage. The same number of coats should apply to the SF mix.

You only need to wait a couple of hours after finishing priming before spraying the SF mix, but overnight is best. Otherwise, I think the general rule of thumb is 30 minutes waiting after dusters and 1 hour after full coats.
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post #6 of 20 Old 12-09-2011, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Awesome - thanks for the responses! Good thing I asked - I was thinking the primer then just 2 coats would be fine.

Didn't even consider spraying the primer to practice - great idea! Although would the Killz primer be too thick for it though? Would it strain alright?

I see the Wagner sprayer says it has 3 pattern shapes - is there a specific setting I should set it to?

Thanks again! I'll be sure to post after photos when it's done.
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post #7 of 20 Old 12-10-2011, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapriett View Post

Awesome - thanks for the responses! Good thing I asked - I was thinking the primer then just 2 coats would be fine.

Didn't even consider spraying the primer to practice - great idea! Although would the Killz primer be too thick for it though? Would it strain alright?

I see the Wagner sprayer says it has 3 pattern shapes - is there a specific setting I should set it to?

Thanks again! I'll be sure to post after photos when it's done.

No....you have to dilute the Kilz-2 with water. Quite a bit actually...at least 1/3 Water to Primer Volume. I've been using Zinnser 123, a thinner primer that requires much less water than the goo-like Kilz

As far as the Pattern goes....always VERTICAL.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #8 of 20 Old 12-11-2011, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Hopefully I didn't screw it up too much. Did my first coat, waiting about 90 mins, then did a second coat. This is what I got, immediately after the second coat. Hopefully it dries alright and that I didn't put it on too thick.


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post #9 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 02:56 AM
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Hard to tell, there is so much noise in the image. That's primer?

If the inside edge of the tape is your screen edge, I'd run out a bit further past the tape's outside edge.

When you go to remove the tape, be sure to pull to the outside/away from screen edge to avoid tearing the Drywall paper in toward the center, A common error that can cause real tears.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #10 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry, pictures are with my iphone, so may be why it's a little grainy. Hoping the screen came out alright - the gray looks like it may be a little too dark and shiny. But I'm guessing it'll lighten some as it dries more?

Here's the before picture projected on just a plain white primed wall:


Did a 3rd coat last night, here's what it looked like this morning after some time to dry:





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post #11 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 09:28 AM
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Got to give the Brother some Screen Shot takin' advice...

I gotta say it....that looks like something a lot darker than a SF 3.0

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #12 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Ha, yes I know....my screenshot skills are about as good as my painting skills

Hmm - I tried to be very careful and precise when mixing the SilverFire 3.0. Wondering if I should maybe add more Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl or Liquitex Basics Titanium White to the mixture to lighten it up...
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post #13 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapriett View Post

Ha, yes I know....my screenshot skills are about as good as my painting skills

A quick question: What color are the walls and ceiling surrounding the screen? From other photos, I got the idea they were white... If they are, look at them in your screen shots. They look much darker than white. If they are white, your photos are darker than reality, which means your screen looks darker in the photos than it really is. Just a thought...
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post #14 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapriett View Post

Ha, yes I know....my screenshot skills are about as good as my painting skills

Hmm - I tried to be very careful and precise when mixing the SilverFire 3.0. Wondering if I should maybe add more Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl or Liquitex Basics Titanium White to the mixture to lighten it up...

NO.....,

Don't even.

If anything is added, and only if you have enough paint left to do all the coat required (...at least 3 more...) , I'd add some Behr 1050 "Flat" in just a small amount (4 oz.) to try to take away the sheen.

The Titanium White was dropped from the formula to ward off a tendency for such sheen to develop? It's been removed from the 1st Page Formula Table. If you have any degree of sheen after 24 hours of drying time, I'm sure that's the reason.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #15 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirnak View Post

A quick question: What color are the walls and ceiling surrounding the screen? From other photos, I got the idea they were white... If they are, look at them in your screen shots. They look much darker than white. If they are white, your photos are darker than reality, which means your screen looks darker in the photos than it really is. Just a thought...

Yes, the walls are white. I didn't use flash on the photos since it made them hard to see. Maybe I'll try again tonight with a real camera...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

NO.....,

Don't even.

If anything is added, and only if you have enough paint left to do all the coat required (...at least 3 more...) , I'd add some Behr 1050 "Flat" in just a small amount (4 oz.) to try to take away the sheen.

The Titanium White was dropped from the formula to ward off a tendency for such sheen to develop? It's been removed from the 1st Page Formula Table. If you have any degree of sheen after 24 hours of drying time, I'm sure that's the reason.

Darn - I guess my recipe was out of sync! Didn't even think to check for updates...
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post #16 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Hopefully these pictures are better - was taken with a real camera, although I do stink at taking pictures (was messing around with turning the flash on and off)...

The grey is pretty dark though - guessing I should lighten it up some. I have about a third gallon of Silver Fire left. Maybe I'll pick up some Behr 1050 Flat tomorrow and try mixing it in. You think about 4 oz should do? How about additional water?

Thanks for all your help!!


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post #17 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Also noticed the forumla was changed from 16oz of Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish to only 12oz, so maybe that's part of the issue too...
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post #18 of 20 Old 12-12-2011, 09:50 PM
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[quote=dapriett;21339626]Hopefully these pictures are better - was taken with a real camera, although I do stink at taking pictures (was messing around with turning the flash on and off)...

The grey is pretty dark though - guessing I should lighten it up some. I have about a third gallon of Silver Fire left. Maybe I'll pick up some Behr 1050 Flat tomorrow and try mixing it in. You think about 4 oz should do? How about additional water?

Thanks for all your help!!


I dunno....those "No Flash w/Can Lights" shots look very impressive. I counsel holding off at least a couple days and observing.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #19 of 20 Old 12-16-2011, 04:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Good thing I followed your suggestion, Gave it a couple days, and I think I like it as is.

Next step now is to paint the surrounding wall and frame.

Planning on painting the rest of that wall "Velvety Merlot", to match the red on the other side of the room. Those walls are Eggshell finish - you think that's alright for that wall?

For the frame thinking just putting some trim around it, painting it a dark brown.

Thanks for all your help!
LL
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post #20 of 20 Old 12-16-2011, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapriett View Post

Good thing I followed your suggestion, Gave it a couple days, and I think I like it as is.

Next step now is to paint the surrounding wall and frame.

Planning on painting the rest of that wall "Velvety Merlot", to match the red on the other side of the room. Those walls are Eggshell finish - you think that's alright for that wall?

For the frame thinking just putting some trim around it, painting it a dark brown.

Thanks for all your help!

Satin Yes.....Eggshell not so much. Eggshell has enough sheen to produce a muted shine-effect.

Brown Trim with a Merlot wall? Ugh.

Use "Disney's Mouse Ears" Black...in a Flat that you roll on using a Foam Roller

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