Best masking material (velvet, felt, etc)? - Page 2 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 2Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 60 Old 12-14-2012, 01:25 PM
Member
 
Warlan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

on my way to lowes to pick up tile for my family/theater room in the basement. jo'anns is next door. i'll take look. they may have switch suppliers.


they generally carry 2 brands. the cheaper one is clearly inferior in color and nap. it also collects dust much easier.
Did you ever find out what it is? I see two versions at the moment at Joann's, Royalty 3 Velvet and Empire Velveteen. The Royalty stuff that I saw at the store looked a lot like the SyFabric stuff with the odd material (hem?) at the top. I know this is a bit of a necro bump but it was the most 'current' thread discussing this that I found.
Warlan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 60 Old 03-06-2013, 03:41 AM
Senior Member
 
cemo62's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 269
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Well, much of all of the above "what works best" is redundant, as it's been a well known and accepted fact for a very long time that the "Go To" source for inexpensive "Black Plush Triple Velvet is Sy Fabrics:

http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/P...Velvet/681/264


Coupon Offers come and go...and various brand names of velvet (Fidelio - Madonna -Double Eagle ) wax & wane as far as general availability at various Fabric Store outlets.........


.......however Sy Fabric as a consistent source always remains, there is always stock, and at $7.70 yd. there is almost no chance that even a 40% off Coupon for any store will stand up against the price/quality Sy offers.

is this for covering ceiling or walls?
cemo62 is offline  
post #33 of 60 Old 03-06-2013, 05:49 AM
Senior Member
 
ahajr143's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 236
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Mostly it is used for covering trim for the screen, but it could be used to cover ceiling or walls. A rather expensive way to go, though.
ahajr143 is offline  
post #34 of 60 Old 03-06-2013, 06:00 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,956
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 170 Post(s)
Liked: 225
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahajr143 View Post

Mostly it is used for covering trim for the screen, but it could be used to cover ceiling or walls. A rather expensive way to go, though.

Actually, considering the job it has to do, and how well it can do it, Black Velvet coming in at 7.70 yd (3' x 54") can cover some real Ceiling acreage for less than many paints, whose cost is upward / beyond $30.00 a gallon. And painting anything out "Black" must involve multiple coats, using the correct sheen (Flat is horrible ugly...Satin is better.) and if rolled, much care must be taken to avoid roller mar4ks that will be very obvious when the lights are up. Of course it serves best when the only Masking needed to be done involves Side Panels, the interior of a recessed area around a screen, or just the area directly abo0ve a highly placed Screen

I've used Black Paint, Proto Star Telescope Flocking, and Black Velvet, and the latter was by far the best combination of wholly effective making performance, cost, and ease of application.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #35 of 60 Old 03-06-2013, 07:21 AM
Senior Member
 
cemo62's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 269
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 10
what do you suggest to me for ceiling? thank you
cemo62 is offline  
post #36 of 60 Old 03-06-2013, 07:39 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,956
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 170 Post(s)
Liked: 225
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

what do you suggest to me for ceiling? thank you

For an entire ceiling....if you want it Black, ask at Home Depot for "Disney's Mouse Ears" mixed into Behr 1850 Deep Base. (Flat Enamel) Be sure to prime first with a dark Gray Primer.

Otherwise, dependent upon your Wall color, often a good alternative is to have a Color match made, then have it darkened by 4-5 Shades. That is a decor-oriented solution many Wives can get wrapped around.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #37 of 60 Old 04-26-2013, 02:42 PM
Member
 
qBaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but it seemed relevant here: roughly how many yards would people buy to wrap a 4'x8' (98" diagonal, give or take) frame? Can I cut a yard into 3-4 long strips to wrap the frame edges, or does one need more than that?

I'll think out loud, here. Say I've got 3" wide trim pieces. I should be able to wrap each one with 3" on the face and another 2" to pull around on the back and staple down, right? So a standard bolt of fabric (at 45" wide) should let me get well more than the 4 strips I'll need to wrap the frame, and I can just get 3 yards, which will accommodate the longest edge of my frame.

Anyone with more experience see anything wrong with this reasoning?
qBaz is offline  
post #38 of 60 Old 04-26-2013, 05:35 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,956
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 170 Post(s)
Liked: 225
Quote:
Originally Posted by qBaz View Post


I'll think out loud, here. Say I've got 3" wide trim pieces. I should be able to wrap each one with 3" on the face and another 2" to pull around on the back and staple down, right? So a standard bolt of fabric (at 45" wide) should let me get well more than the 4 strips I'll need to wrap the frame, and I can just get 3 yards, which will accommodate the longest edge of my frame.

Anyone with more experience see anything wrong with this reasoning?

3 yards purchased here: http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Velvet/681/264

Search all you want...nothing is as inexpensive and yet so ideally suited.

Instructions:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/865218/wrapping-black-velvet-on-trim-with-mitered-or-butt-joined-ends


.........and you do NOT cut the Velvet.....you "rip" it by notching a edge with sharp scissors to the width desired, then simply pulling the fabric apart like ripping a piece of paper. You get a perfect, straight rip, and just some loose threads to clean up.

I always use t-50 1/4" staples to attach the velvet.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #39 of 60 Old 07-27-2014, 04:02 PM
Member
 
Ebase131's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by qBaz 


I'll think out loud, here. Say I've got 3" wide trim pieces. I should be able to wrap each one with 3" on the face and another 2" to pull around on the back and staple down, right? So a standard bolt of fabric (at 45" wide) should let me get well more than the 4 strips I'll need to wrap the frame, and I can just get 3 yards, which will accommodate the longest edge of my frame.

Anyone with more experience see anything wrong with this reasoning?


3 yards purchased here: http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/P...Velvet/681/264

Search all you want...nothing is as inexpensive and yet so ideally suited.

Instructions:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/865218/wra...tt-joined-ends


.........and you do NOT cut the Velvet.....you "rip" it by notching a edge with sharp scissors to the width desired, then simply pulling the fabric apart like ripping a piece of paper. You get a perfect, straight rip, and just some loose threads to clean up.

I always use t-50 1/4" staples to attach the velvet.
Hey Mississippi, would you still recommend the Sy Fabrics over anything else? Should I got Fidelio for the area just making up the projector screen wall and then Sy Fabrics for everything else (ceiling, side walls)?
Ebase131 is offline  
post #40 of 60 Old 07-27-2014, 10:02 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,956
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 170 Post(s)
Liked: 225
For the best performance and value I still feel that the Sy Triple velvet is the best choice for all applications

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #41 of 60 Old 07-28-2014, 06:57 AM
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 796
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked: 22
Is it better to use Black speaker grill cloth or stretch velvet for AT panels around my screen? Also, MM I want to black out the crown and trim above my screen should I wrap it all in black velvet?

Come see my Livin' the Dream build!

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
wraunch is offline  
post #42 of 60 Old 07-28-2014, 07:31 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,956
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 170 Post(s)
Liked: 225
I would do so.
AT Speaker Grill cloth is by it's very nature very thin and it would e allow more light to pass through both directions.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #43 of 60 Old 07-28-2014, 10:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
ellisr63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northern California, In the HT
Posts: 2,071
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Liked: 241
If you want to mask your screen, and you have a speaker behind it... You can use stretch velvet as it will allow more sound through.

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
ellisr63 is online now  
post #44 of 60 Old 07-30-2014, 01:02 PM
Member
 
Hank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 159
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 13
...

Last edited by Hank; 07-31-2014 at 03:37 AM. Reason: duplicate
Hank is offline  
post #45 of 60 Old 07-30-2014, 01:07 PM
Member
 
Hank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 159
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Sy wrote:
Quote:
I was thinking... should we start an "Official Light Control" thread? It seems like a valid topic where a lot of good information and ideas could be shared.
Yes - and make it a sticky.
Hank is offline  
post #46 of 60 Old 07-31-2014, 02:35 AM
Member
 
Debonaire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank View Post
Sy wrote: Yes - and make it a sticky.
There's already one by SOWK called Once You Go Black in the $3,000+ digital projector section.
Debonaire is online now  
post #47 of 60 Old 07-31-2014, 03:36 AM
Member
 
Hank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 159
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Sy did not write: "Yes - and make it a sticky" I wrote that.
Also how could anyone be able to determine the meaning/content of a thread titled "Once you go black"? At least change the title so that the subject is obvious. And, why only in the uber expensive projector area?
Debonaire likes this.
Hank is offline  
post #48 of 60 Old 07-31-2014, 03:39 AM
Member
 
Debonaire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank View Post
Sy did not write: "Yes - and make it a sticky" I wrote that.
Also how could anyone be able to determine the meaning/content of a thread titled "Once you go black"? At least change the title so that the subject is obvious. And, why only in the uber expensive projector area?
You Texans are hilarious.

"Black" Theater Improvment Thread
(Once you go black you never go
back?) ( 1 2 3 ... Last Page )
started by SOWK (03-25-2013)

"Black" Theater Improvment Thread (Once you go black you never go back?)

Last edited by Debonaire; 07-31-2014 at 03:44 AM.
Debonaire is online now  
post #49 of 60 Old 07-31-2014, 04:48 AM
Member
 
Hank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 159
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Going for accuracy, logic and clarity is "hilarious"? I'm glad you are entertained by that.
Hank is offline  
post #50 of 60 Old 07-31-2014, 06:33 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,956
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 170 Post(s)
Liked: 225
In truth, the entire BTI Thread
"Black" Theater Improvment Thread (Once you go black you never go back?)
....is based on Old School Logic that Black is the only way to effect sufficient dampening of reflective light. It is not, and often...if Black Paint is used, the result is a dismally ugly surface...one that actually concentrates the reflection of Blue light wavelengths.

A very dark neutral Gray is much better. And it looks FAR better and has umpteenth more WAF.

Beyond that, if Black is necessary because of extremely close quarter reflection issues, true Light masking materials such as the right type of medium pile Black Velvet or Protostar Telescope Flocking is best advised....both of which put any type of black paint to shame.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #51 of 60 Old 08-19-2014, 06:03 PM
Newbie
 
sigrab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
In truth, the entire BTI Thread
"Black" Theater Improvment Thread (Once you go black you never go back?)
....is based on Old School Logic that Black is the only way to effect sufficient dampening of reflective light. It is not, and often...if Black Paint is used, the result is a dismally ugly surface...one that actually concentrates the reflection of Blue light wavelengths.

A very dark neutral Gray is much better. And it looks FAR better and has umpteenth more WAF.

Beyond that, if Black is necessary because of extremely close quarter reflection issues, true Light masking materials such as the right type of medium pile Black Velvet or Protostar Telescope Flocking is best advised....both of which put any type of black paint to shame.
What do you suggest is the best way to cover my white basement drop ceiling tiles/rails with this protostar material? Curious if this material is thin enough that maybe magnets can do the trick?

I would rather not use the adhesive back to attach it since I need a temporary cover, one that looks decent but will not ruin the ceiling or rails once the protostar material is removed since we intend to buy a new house next summer and my current house will be rented by a friend of ours.

I'm already set on getting that black plush triple velvet from Sy to cover the wall behind the screen and about 5 feet of the front side walls.
sigrab is offline  
post #52 of 60 Old 08-19-2014, 09:27 PM
Member
 
Debonaire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
In truth, the entire BTI Thread
"Black" Theater Improvment Thread (Once you go black you never go back?)
....is based on Old School Logic that Black is the only way to effect sufficient dampening of reflective light. It is not, and often...if Black Paint is used, the result is a dismally ugly surface...one that actually concentrates the reflection of Blue light wavelengths.

A very dark neutral Gray is much better. And it looks FAR better and has umpteenth more WAF.

Beyond that, if Black is necessary because of extremely close quarter reflection issues, true Light masking materials such as the right type of medium pile Black Velvet or Protostar Telescope Flocking is best advised....both of which put any type of black paint to shame.
SOWK is a smart guy and doesn't advocate black paint. His whole dedicated theater is covered walls, ceiling and floor in Fidelio. Such a room makes you lose sense of self and distances become hard to judge. A screen looks much bigger than it actually is.

In that type of room anything other than a 1.0 gain white screen will lose performance.

But you don't need to go as far as Fidelio. Commando cloth heavy weight Duvetyn will do. Unless half your room was half Duvetyn and the other Fidelio, you couldn't tell.

If performance is key, without wall treatment, then only a silver or other "high" gain white will do.

MM,

Is you goal to get a screen to act like tv without going through the effort of rear projection?

But I must say your CMRA SILVER variation is pretty inventive.
Debonaire is online now  
post #53 of 60 Old 08-20-2014, 06:35 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,956
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 170 Post(s)
Liked: 225
Quote:
Originally Posted by sigrab View Post
What do you suggest is the best way to cover my white basement drop ceiling tiles/rails with this protostar material? Curious if this material is thin enough that maybe magnets can do the trick?

I would rather not use the adhesive back to attach it since I need a temporary cover, one that looks decent but will not ruin the ceiling or rails once the protostar material is removed since we intend to buy a new house next summer and my current house will be rented by a friend of ours.

I'm already set on getting that black plush triple velvet from Sy to cover the wall behind the screen and about 5 feet of the front side walls.
Oh my, ProtoStar can do you better than that!

quote taken from this page: http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flockboard.htm

NEW! We now offer pre-cut FlockBoard sheets for 2' x 2', and 2' x 4' drop ceilings (see the order table below). These can be used in home theater applications, or other uses where it's necessary to reduce room brightness. These veneer panels simply slip between the rails and your existing drop ceiling panel...no adhesives or tapes required. Self-adhesive light trap tape (1-5/8" width) is available for covering the metal support rails.

You can't get a better application that that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Debonaire View Post
SOWK is a smart guy and doesn't advocate black paint. His whole dedicated theater is covered walls, ceiling and floor in Fidelio. Such a room makes you lose sense of self and distances become hard to judge. A screen looks much bigger than it actually is.

In that type of room anything other than a 1.0 gain white screen will lose performance.
Whoa. Now that is far too generalized a statement. One of the key elements of the advanced DIY Screen formulas is to create both a Gray / Silver base and provide just enough gain (1.1 to 1.3) to counteract attenuation and combat sideways oriented ambient light.

Essentially what you say is true, but it must be qualified to say that such applies to White surfaces. And going further, to surfaces that are not designed to be highly Retro-Reflective (DaLite HP / Black Diamond<yecch>

Quote:
If performance is key, without wall treatment, then only a silver or other "high" gain white will do.
Silver Fire, RS-MaxxMudd Standard or Retro, Matte Gray Paint or Material (PJ dependent)....and several Mfg screens can all mitigate the effects of an untreated room. In worst case situations, one must employ the most effective solutions, which fortunately does not always mean the most expensive.

Quote:
MM,

Is you goal to get a screen to act like tv without going through the effort of rear projection?
That effect was / is a performance point that was included in the original designated goal set, but truthfully, that has always been my own set standard ever since the first Light Fusion screens appeared.

Steel yur wul...here it comes.

Prior to that, the main goal was to duplicate the Multi-Layered approach taken by what was the del facto standard for DIY screen paint... GOO Systems, a ultra white base covered with a very Translucent Top Coat. Sound familiar? The issues back then (2002) was undue expense, and difficult and problematical application. The solution....a basic primed surface coated with a combined 3 element Mix that could be rolled or sprayed (MMud)

1 part Behr Pearl
1 part Behr UPW
1 part Behr Deep Base

Then Silver Metallic was added.....discreetly (3 - 4 oz), and MMud-SE (Silver Edition) came to be. And suddenly, a small degree of ambient light performance was achieved without muting Whites.

Light Fusion employed MMud over a 1/8" Plastic Mirror, with the Aluminum Mirror behind a 1.8" "gap" acting as a collector, returning attenuated light back to the original projected surface.

Now THAT was the epitome of TV-like Projection. And once Silver was employed to create a more "Gray" Screen, it just got better. But when Black Flame / Silver Fire hit the mirror equation, ambient light performance became spectacular, and that....it should be pointed out...predated virtually all Mfg attempts at achieving similar results with a layered Film approach. The Vutech Silver Star excepted, and the Sony ChromaVue following a year later.

But none of the Mfg Screens ever were accredited with the phrase "It looks better'n a Plasma" like SF-LF was attributed. That phrase was a call to battle across the Display forums, so unaccustomed was any type of FP application to be compared with a direct view Monitor.

Of course it was essential to mate up a good balanced relationship between PJ and screen (size mattered then as it does now) but it is telling that another primary goal from the start between CMRA and myself was to provide applications that made the inexpensive LCD PJs look like big buck DLPs, back when a LCD PJ came in "barely" at under $2000.00 and the least expensive "Theater quality" DLPs were at "minimum" $5000.00+

A long reply to a short question, but it is a fact....everyone wants a "Jetsons' sized Wall TV"....not a flat, static projected image. 4K projection looks good on any decent sized FP Screen surface, but even the least experienced viewer doesn't hold up such against a direct comparison to a 70" 4K Direct Display. But guess again...my own 143" SF v2.5 4.0 was compared to Sony and Sharp 60" - 65" 4K TVs and most all stated it looked "as good as" those entries.

Of course the ridiculous size difference might have swayed a few opinions....

So here it is. My applications do aspire to creating bright, vibrant, and deep contrasted images that look "as good as" a direct view Monitor.....and can do so quite often even in appreciable ambient light. Turn off the lights and there is no further discussion about it.

Quote:
But I must say your CMRA SILVER variation is pretty inventive.
Much if not all credit goes to CMRA for his initial idea / work, although he hauled up short size-wise. I delved further and went looking for a better Silver Metallic to use, and once that was acquired, things really go poppin'. But even before that, the inherent properties of S-I-L-V-E-R (...get it right!...) using the old Behr Premium Plus Faux Silver allowed for the creation of 200" plus screens used with sub 1000 lumen PJs, and managed to do so without any really noticeable loss of viewing cone.

The latter always having been a primary point of dispute. Statements like "You cannot have Gain without losing a proportionate amount of Viewing cone" have flown fast and furiously. While such may be...and is in fact true when flat surface reflection is employed, when one has a deeper, translucent surface where the metallic s are situated in layers and not oriented in one direction, one gets both an increase in gain and an added degree of refraction of projected light....a fuller, more equal dispersion as it were. If gain is achieved, then there is no loss of illumination even if a degree of the incoming light is sent sideways.

Yeah...such talk has always conjured up comments like "mad alchemy at work" and "it's against the laws of physics". In fact, it is fully in keeping with all known laws of physics, it is simply a case where more aspects of the physical properties of both light and medium are being utilized. And brother...for such revelations to come rampaging\' out of the DIY Screen Forum was and is still galling to many who feel that only Mfg Screens hold the right to be considered the best solution to any given situation.

Let'em eat cake.
sigrab likes this.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #54 of 60 Old 08-20-2014, 06:16 PM
Newbie
 
sigrab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Oh my, ProtoStar can do you better than that!

quote taken from this page: http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flockboard.htm

NEW! We now offer pre-cut FlockBoard sheets for 2' x 2', and 2' x 4' drop ceilings (see the order table below). These can be used in home theater applications, or other uses where it's necessary to reduce room brightness. These veneer panels simply slip between the rails and your existing drop ceiling panel...no adhesives or tapes required. Self-adhesive light trap tape (1-5/8" width) is available for covering the metal support rails.

You can't get a better application that that!
That's great! Thanks!

How about the recessed lights? I have ones that aren't flush with the tiles and swivels.

Short of spray painting them a black color, is there a temporary fix to make them "disappear" when the lights are off?
sigrab is offline  
post #55 of 60 Old 08-20-2014, 06:38 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,956
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 170 Post(s)
Liked: 225
You could pin some Black Velvet over them. Cut a hole to natch the "Eye Ball".

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #56 of 60 Old 08-20-2014, 06:53 PM
Newbie
 
sigrab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
You could pin some Black Velvet over them. Cut a hole to natch the "Eye Ball".
Pin? Can you please elaborate?

Forgive me, I'm really an idiot when it comes to things like these. Haha
sigrab is offline  
post #57 of 60 Old 08-20-2014, 11:51 PM
Member
 
Debonaire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Much if not all credit goes to CMRA for his initial idea / work, although he hauled up short size-wise. I delved further and went looking for a better Silver Metallic to use, and once that was acquired, things really go poppin'. But even before that, the inherent properties of S-I-L-V-E-R (...get it right!...) using the old Behr Premium Plus Faux Silver allowed for the creation of 200" plus screens used with sub 1000 lumen PJs, and managed to do so without any really noticeable loss of viewing cone.
I researched your problem with artist grade acrylics. Too opaque, too high load pigment and too much iridescent.

Easily solved with acrylic mediums . A matt polymer reduces opacity and iridescent by separating the pigment while keeping the darkness. An artist gloss will allow for glazing with a thinner layer due to the more efficient use.

If there isn't a dark enough shade of gray in an artist acrylic, use 113,113,113 universal gray artists grade with a polymer to reduce opacity and add Iridescent Tinting Medium.

Artists have been doing this layered and suspended clear top coat method for centuries for the exact same reason you are.

If we got an artist, and some of those guys like Darin, Sowk, or Chris Wiggles then that would lend credence to the work you've and the rest like Pb and CMRA have done.

I bet we could get real results which would wow even those like AVS Sales 5 who say DIY painted screens is for suckers and Joe Six pack.

Instead of Behr UPW, use Rosco Off Broadway White White.You could still slum it and substitute UPW with nary anyone the wiser. The use of construction use paints makes you look like some hill billy. It's all about image.
Debonaire is online now  
post #58 of 60 Old 08-28-2014, 11:11 AM
Member
 
Ebase131's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
In truth, the entire BTI Thread
"Black" Theater Improvment Thread (Once you go black you never go back?)
....is based on Old School Logic that Black is the only way to effect sufficient dampening of reflective light. It is not, and often...if Black Paint is used, the result is a dismally ugly surface...one that actually concentrates the reflection of Blue light wavelengths.

A very dark neutral Gray is much better. And it looks FAR better and has umpteenth more WAF.

Beyond that, if Black is necessary because of extremely close quarter reflection issues, true Light masking materials such as the right type of medium pile Black Velvet or Protostar Telescope Flocking is best advised....both of which put any type of black paint to shame.
Okay, so I have a whole bunch of Protostar AND Sy Fabrics velvet. I need to cover about 40 inches by 12 feet of ceiling that touches the projector screen wall, and then need to surround the projector screen wall with fabric as well as one of the side walls (other side is open area that will be covered by a black curtain).

My question is, which black material should I use for which area(s) and which for the remaining area(s), and what is the best way to secure the Sy Fabrics velvet in a particular place depending on the area covered (ceiling if recommended versus walls if recommended versus covering the entertainment console if recommended). The Protostar obviously has it's own adhesive so depending on what's recommended it should be easier to just plop on.

Long story short, should I use Protostar for ceiling or Sy Fabrics, should I use Protostar for projector screen wall and surrounding screen or Sy Fabrics, etc.?

Thank you for the help in advance!!! Excited and will post pics when this crazy endeavor is finally "finished!"
Ebase131 is offline  
post #59 of 60 Old 08-29-2014, 02:40 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,956
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 170 Post(s)
Liked: 225
I would use the Protostar on the Ceiling and the velvet on the walls. Gravity will let the velvet "drape", while the adhesive on the PS holds it fast on the Ceiling.

I would simply tack the Velvet in place

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #60 of 60 Old 08-29-2014, 03:58 PM
AVS Special Member
 
ellisr63's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northern California, In the HT
Posts: 2,071
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 166 Post(s)
Liked: 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
I would use the Protostar on the Ceiling and the velvet on the walls. Gravity will let the velvet "drape", while the adhesive on the PS holds it fast on the Ceiling.

I would simply tack the Velvet in place
I just ordered 500" of the 30" wide adhesive Prostar... Any tips as to how to line it up when installing on the ceiling? I ordered the 30" wide stuff, and figure I will do 2 rows of it in front of the screen on the ceiling. I will be doing a 16' x 30" area for each row.

tia,
Ron

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.

Last edited by ellisr63; 09-02-2014 at 08:07 AM.
ellisr63 is online now  
Reply DIY Screen Section

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off