Originally Posted by sigrab
What do you suggest is the best way to cover my white basement drop ceiling tiles/rails with this protostar material? Curious if this material is thin enough that maybe magnets can do the trick?
I would rather not use the adhesive back to attach it since I need a temporary cover, one that looks decent but will not ruin the ceiling or rails once the protostar material is removed since we intend to buy a new house next summer and my current house will be rented by a friend of ours.
I'm already set on getting that black plush triple velvet from Sy to cover the wall behind the screen and about 5 feet of the front side walls.
Oh my, ProtoStar can do you better than that!
quote taken from this page: http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flockboard.htm
NEW! We now offer pre-cut FlockBoard sheets for 2' x 2', and 2' x 4' drop ceilings (see the order table below). These can be used in home theater applications, or other uses where it's necessary to reduce room brightness. These veneer panels simply slip between the rails and your existing drop ceiling panel...no adhesives or tapes required. Self-adhesive light trap tape (1-5/8" width) is available for covering the metal support rails.
You can't get a better application that that!
Originally Posted by Debonaire
SOWK is a smart guy and doesn't advocate black paint. His whole dedicated theater is covered walls, ceiling and floor in Fidelio. Such a room makes you lose sense of self and distances become hard to judge. A screen looks much bigger than it actually is.
In that type of room anything other than a 1.0 gain white screen will lose performance.
Whoa. Now that is far too generalized a statement. One of the key elements of the advanced DIY Screen formulas is to create both a Gray / Silver base and provide just enough gain (1.1 to 1.3) to counteract attenuation and combat sideways oriented ambient light.
Essentially what you say is true, but it must be qualified to say that such applies to White surfaces. And going further, to surfaces that are not designed to be highly
Retro-Reflective (DaLite HP / Black Diamond<yecch>
If performance is key, without wall treatment, then only a silver or other "high" gain white will do.
Silver Fire, RS-MaxxMudd Standard or Retro, Matte Gray Paint or Material (PJ dependent)....and several Mfg screens can all mitigate the effects of an untreated room. In worst case situations, one must employ the most effective solutions, which fortunately does not always mean the most expensive.
Is you goal to get a screen to act like tv without going through the effort of rear projection?
That effect was / is a performance point that was included in the original designated goal set, but truthfully, that has always been my own set standard ever since the first Light Fusion screens appeared.
Steel yur wul...here it comes.
Prior to that, the main goal was to duplicate the Multi-Layered approach taken by what was the del facto standard for DIY screen paint... GOO Systems, a ultra white base covered with a very Translucent Top Coat. Sound familiar?
The issues back then (2002) was undue expense, and difficult and problematical application. The solution....a basic primed surface coated with a combined 3 element Mix that could be rolled or sprayed (MMud)
1 part Behr Pearl
1 part Behr UPW
1 part Behr Deep Base
Then Silver Metallic was added.....discreetly (3 - 4 oz), and MMud-SE (Silver Edition) came to be. And suddenly, a small degree of ambient light performance was achieved without muting Whites.
Light Fusion employed MMud over a 1/8" Plastic Mirror, with the Aluminum Mirror behind a 1.8" "gap" acting as a collector, returning attenuated light back to the original projected surface.
Now THAT was the epitome of TV-like Projection. And once Silver was employed to create a more "Gray" Screen, it just got better. But when Black Flame / Silver Fire hit the mirror equation, ambient light performance became spectacular, and that....it should be pointed out...predated virtually all Mfg attempts at achieving similar results with a layered Film approach. The Vutech Silver Star excepted, and the Sony ChromaVue following a year later.
But none of the Mfg Screens ever were accredited with the phrase "It looks better'n a Plasma" like SF-LF was attributed. That phrase was a call to battle across the Display forums, so unaccustomed was any type of FP application to be compared with a direct view Monitor.
Of course it was essential to mate up a good balanced relationship between PJ and screen (size mattered then as it does now) but it is telling that another primary goal from the start between CMRA and myself was to provide applications that made the inexpensive LCD PJs look like big buck DLPs, back when a LCD PJ came in "barely" at under $2000.00 and the least expensive "Theater quality" DLPs were at "minimum" $5000.00+
A long reply to a short question, but it is a fact....everyone wants a "Jetsons' sized Wall TV"....not a flat, static projected image. 4K projection looks good on any decent sized FP Screen surface, but even the least experienced viewer doesn't hold up such against a direct comparison to a 70" 4K Direct Display. But guess again...my own 143" SF v2.5 4.0
was compared to Sony and Sharp 60" - 65" 4K TVs and most all stated it looked "as good as" those entries.
Of course the ridiculous size difference might have swayed a few opinions....
So here it is. My applications do aspire to creating bright, vibrant, and deep contrasted images that look "as good as" a direct view Monitor.....and can do so quite often even in appreciable ambient light. Turn off the lights and there is no further discussion about it.
But I must say your CMRA SILVER variation is pretty inventive.
Much if not all credit goes to CMRA for his initial idea / work, although he hauled up short size-wise. I delved further and went looking for a better Silver Metallic to use, and once that was acquired, things really go poppin'. But even before that, the inherent properties of S-I-L-V-E-R (...get it right!...) using the old Behr Premium Plus Faux Silver allowed for the creation of 200" plus screens used with sub 1000 lumen PJs, and managed to do so without any really noticeable loss of viewing cone.
The latter always having been a primary point of dispute. Statements like "You cannot have Gain without losing a proportionate amount of Viewing cone" have flown fast and furiously. While such may be...and is in fact true when flat surface reflection is employed, when one has a deeper, translucent surface where the metallic s are situated in layers and not oriented in one direction, one gets both an increase in gain and an added degree of refraction of projected light....a fuller, more equal dispersion as it were. If gain is achieved, then there is no loss of illumination even if a degree of the incoming light is sent sideways.
Yeah...such talk has always conjured up comments like "mad alchemy at work" and "it's against the laws of physics". In fact, it is fully in keeping with all known laws of physics, it is simply a case where more aspects of the physical properties of both light and medium are being utilized. And brother...for such revelations to come rampaging\' out of the DIY Screen Forum was and is still galling to many who feel that only Mfg Screens hold the right to be considered the best solution to any given situation.
Let'em eat cake.