Originally Posted by damthrill
I need to know a good paint mix for my needs. I got the 1x4 pieces, plas tex( forgot to tell them to cut it down to size), liquid nails, and pocket hole thingy.
How did you get hooked up with the parkland product? Doesn't matter much as long as your painting onto it...smooth side of course.
Mississipi man, I have three locations that are ambient and may try 1 of three with fabric, thats all. But first one is paint all the way.
Don't think I'm totally against using Fabric....in some few instances it's actually preferred, such as making a lightweight Screen that can easily be put up and taken down, or when no other material can accommodate the size screen desired. but that about wraps up the advantages thereof.
I also bought the harbor freight hvlp turbine kit that i haven't used yet, but I can try it on this project, it also pushes out a hottish air, so maybe drys faster, same as rockler hvlp turbine kit.
Hmmmmm....not familiar with that particular unit. It's hose must be fairly short for the air to be noticeably "hottish", not just mildly "warm". truth is, you don't want the paint to be drying as it exits the Gun. Nor do you want the gun's Tip and orifice to get hot lest it tend to bake the paint on.
The older "All in one" hand-held Turbines got quite warm, and required IMMEDIATE rinsing lest the clog up. Part of the heat issue was because they did not spray enough paint out in a volume, making the amount of time required to paint a normal sized screen long enough for the Gun to get quite "hottish".
Average time spraying a 120" diagonal screen was about 2.5 minutes.
The Hose Fed Turbines put out considerably more pressure. With the Wagner CS Plus, and the "No Name" (Earlex) sprayers, spraying the same size screen as mentioned above takes all of 45 seconds on average.
Also, the plas tex has two sides, one is smoother. I assume to spray on smoothest side?
As previously stated...that's the side to use. I hope that the smooth side doesn't have defects. Parkland changed the way they produced that material after the demand for such as a "point & Shoot" projection surface caused them no end to logistical issues trying to meet such "spot' demand one sheet at a time. That, and the fact that they raised their price on it by 100% after labeling it as "Good For projection Screens" on their website in a obvious money grab. We all pretty much fled their business after that, and soon after that product was dropped in favor of the current material.
The last sheet of the Poly-Wall I saw had a nice, uniform "pebbly" surface on one side, but the "rear' has all sorts of small defects. Hopefully that's not the case in your instance.
Paint-wise...if you can optimize the PJ throws as previously mentioned, the standard RS MaxxMudd is good for modest ambient light, MaxxMudd LL for the Dark Room Theater,, and Silver Fire 3.0 for the other locations where ambient light might be considered a real issue to deal with.
Nice thing about the basic Reflective & Viscosity elements in RS-maxxMudd is that they are the same as what is used for Silver Fire. Only the addition of Colorant defines the real difference.