so, i went ahead and dunned it (almost).
thought i would share a basic summary of what ive done so far, along with some observations - its very long and wordy, but i just figured id share as much as possible to help other diy'ers.
1) skimmed the wall with joint compound as best i could. there are some barely perceptible uneven area, but they are only see- able with a strong side light - when the projector is on, they disappear.
2) primed with glidden gray. I was originally going to just use white primer, but i figured it should heed the advice of MMan and use the gray to help get a better handle on the condition of the wall.
Sprayed a few dusters and one or 2 wetter coats to get nice uniform coverage over the just-skimmed wall. this stuff seems to be pretty good - it needed to be thinned a bunch, but dried with a pretty smooth/hard finish.
To be honest, the color was pretty nice too, not much gain obviously , but otherwise i wonder if it would make a nice one-can gray screen. This is just based on looking and testing some PJ video on it for fun, to get an idea of what a gray screen looks like in use - but i have no idea if its actually color correct or not.
3) once i was satisfied the wall was as good as it was going to get with my nonexistent drywalling skills, it was on to UPW. i used the new version of the behr 1850 UPW. i was already buying it for the SF, so it seemed sensible.
I dont remember how many coats i did, probably similar in count to the primer. i just went until it looked uniformly white, then did one more light coat for good measure.
4) hurray, the fun part! mixed up a batch of SF 4 (to be specific, i used the mix on the 'silver fire mix' thread, which has the graduated amounts of the base components).
4a) first i tackled the colorant. All i has on hand was a 3ml (yes, t-h-r-e-e) syringe used for baby medication etc, sooo thats what i used.
It wasnt too bad, although it was nerve-wracking when doing the 50ml of red with it. Kept thinking i was losing count, but it worked out in the end.
Incidentally, since the 3ml has .1ml gradations on it, it wasn't hard to be accurate with it.
(funny side point.. half way through the colorant mixing, i noticed that because of the way i was holding the syringe, i was slowly rubbing off the markings
. thankfully i noticed before they were gone!... that would have sucked..
Just because its a question people always seem to ask (including myself), ill elaborate on how i did it, which served me well. first i measured out the 100ml water into a container, and squirted out into that (found that advice on the forum somewhere, awesome idea).
To make sure i didn't get any air bubbles when drawing up the paint, i held the tube in one hand with slight squeezing pressure on it, as i pulled up the syringe (with one hand - kind of hard to explain how i did that but if anyone wants to know i can try to elaborate).
The colors seemed to want some coaxing to mix well, so make sure its all mixed in so you dont get any weird effects later (i.e. if your yellow is stuck the bottom). i used a clear container for this, so i was able to visually inspect the sides/bottom to make sure all the paint was incorporated into the mixture.
The critical point here that i want to note is the color. I know this has been said many times on various threads but its worth repeating i suppose, since i found it very helpful to keep in mind when mixing the colorant. it might NOT look like the gray you expect after mixing well. mine in fact looked like a brownish purplish chocolaty color. BUT after doing the 'rinse some off a spoon into a white sink test', it looked perfectly nice and gray. I have seen people post that they redid their colorant after seeing what they thought was incorrect, but do the rinse test first - as MMan said ( somewhere) the colorant doesn't always look the same under direct light vs when rinsed off (or mixed in with the rest of the paint for that matter). so dont worry unless that rinse test fails too.
4b) finally, the base/viscosity stuff. nothing going on here really, its pretty straightforward i guess. I started with the base 24 oz (IIRC) water, since i didnt want to overthin it preemptively - then when i put some paint into gun can for spraying, i diluted a tad bit more, just using the speed of runoff as my indicator. (i had an idea of what to look for since ive used the gun for latex before - otherwise just follow all the advice the experts have given regarding the nylon filter test etc).
5) paint! I put up a few dusters, and then 1 or 2 wetter coats so far.
this is where i did something stupid
When i was testing to see if the first wetter coat was dry (about 20+ minutes later), i lightly touched part of the screen. it was dry, so far so good. so i tested another area. woops. it wasnt dry yet, and the genius that i am, the area is right in the main area of the screen. doh. some paint came off on my fingers and there were white finger prints on the wall
anyway, i let that finish drying completely (didnt touch it again after that!). then I feathered in ,duster style, over that area, and continued with the next (also a bit wetter than duster) coat. at this point, the fingerprint looks mostly gone, and honesty if not for that, i would do one more duster and call it done, it looks great otherwise.
so tonight i will probably do another light coat + 1/2 dusters and call it complete.
this was only a 112"er, so i have a lot of paint left.. wondering if i can experiment with it ( if i can find time... now that this is done i need to move on to carpet, setting up my equipment, and other stuff in the house that needs doing). or maybe ill just hang on to it for when i get the ok to paint more screens somewhere else in the house
Anyway, i tried to post up everything i remembered, hope it helps someone.
i will try to get some screen shots at some point, if people are interested. though I need some time to straighten up the room first and set up all my stuff.
OH - i totally forgot the most important part of the post... how does it look?!?
well, to be honest, i didnt know what to expect, but i am impressed.
first impressions -
as of this morning (after the coats from last night dried) i see no annoying glare at all. no hotspotting that i can detect, and no graininess.
there is a **tiny** bit of what i guess i would call a glimmer to the screen in some bright areas, but i assume that will go away as the paint cures. TO BE CLEAR though, i am only mentioning it for full disclosure. It does not actually take away from the picture at all. its not even close to what i would call 'sparklies/granularity/graininess/whathaveyou'. its barely perceptible and honestly, the picture is super clear and enjoyable.
in the dark, on cinema mode, it clearly looks great - nice and bright , with nice contrast and color clarity.
but the screen really does its business when i turn the lights on.
for context, my current 'worst case situation' is as follows:
- white ceiling (for now - hoping to do something about that with fabric soon)
- light carpet (for now)
- light coming in from hallway which opens onto the screen wall (ie the light hits from side)
-dual tube fluorescent (the kind you see recessed in the ceiling in basements) not 4 feet from the front of the screen, with another slightly off to the side of the screen also 4 feet from the screen wall.
-screen is MAYBE 8 inches from the ceiling, maybe less.
so in summary - bad situation.
HOWEVER, when i put the PJ in normal/dynamic mode, it looks great and totally watchable. ( i can do cinema mode as well, but it doesn't have quite as much pop, which i suppose is expected on a darker screen). point is, throwing the ar100u's lumens at this screen really makes it shine.
note - i have the PJ on ECO mode. dynamic+normal bulb makes it ridiculously bright - i dont see a need for normal bulb mode.
as i said, ill try to get some shots posted when i get a chance, since people do like seeing these things in action, and also since I haven't seen any posts about SF 4 with my specific projector (pt-ar100u)
holy cow thats the longest post ive ever posted.