Can use this mylar for Light fusion screen?? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-28-2012, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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found these pack of 4 mylar blanket on amazon with big enough dimensions for a backing on a plexiglass for a light fission screen. Will these be okay to use??
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-28-2012, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

found these pack of 4 mylar blanket on amazon with big enough dimensions for a backing on a plexiglass for a light fission screen. Will these be okay to use??

No link.

Try locating Mylar Sheeting at a local Hydroponics Store. That is the best variety and the least expensive source I've found.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-29-2012, 12:03 AM
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Is there a DIY screen that uses Mylar Sheeting but without plexiglass or anything else between the paint and the mylar creating the "Gap" ? Is there a High Gain gap-less Fusion screen ? Or is there anything to create the gap, that is cheap and comes in very large sizes ?
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-29-2012, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

No link.

Try locating Mylar Sheeting at a local Hydroponics Store. That is the best variety and the least expensive source I've found.

crud, sorry guys. forgot the link

http://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Myla...5709802&sr=8-2
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-29-2012, 08:45 AM
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Will they work? Probably not. They might come folded with such creased in them as to make them unusable. Still, they are inexpensive enough they might be worth trying.

As far as painting directly on there is a mylar, getting the exact amount of paint on top of a for surface reflector is extemely difficult. Even just a little too much, and you might as well painted the wall.

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post #6 of 11 Old 04-29-2012, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Will they work? Probably not. They might come folded with such creased in them as to make them unusable. Still, they are inexpensive enough they might be worth trying.

As far as painting directly on there is a mylar, getting the exact amount of paint on top of a for surface reflector is extemely difficult. Even just a little too much, and you might as well painted the wall.

yeah we talked about having to get an exact amount when it comes to painting the top of the plexiglass with the Mylar behind it on the silver fire. I'm pretty set on trying this light fusion screen, lol. Here's another link on Mylar that im guessing I would need to go with then to not have creases in them.

http://www.amazon.com/Flora-Hydropon...5717555&sr=8-1

have you yourself done a light fission screen before MM??
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-29-2012, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

yeah we talked about having to get an exact amount when it comes to painting the top of the plexiglass with the Mylar behind it on the silver fire. I'm pretty set on trying this light fusion screen, lol. Here's another link on Mylar that im guessing I would need to go with then to not have creases in them.

http://www.amazon.com/Flora-Hydropon...5717555&sr=8-1

have you yourself done a light fission screen before MM??

The degree of care...and the precision of getting the coating just right is harder when a 1st surface reflector is used. A 1/8" Mirror is much easier by comparison.

Light Fusion (...not Fission) is an application that I developed in conjunction with CMRA way back in 2003-4 I also was / am the first person to have attempted to make a DIY Screen out of a 1st surface Mirror (2004) It was horribly difficult...took 4 separate tries (..and 3 paint wash-offs) but the end result of a successful effort was spectacular. However, because of the obvious difficulty of getting the application of the paint exactly correct, as well as the sheer expense of a 1st Surface Mirror, I could not advocate suggesting that application to DIY'er. So.....I never did.

So it languished in basic obscurity until a few industrious souls did in fact make some 1st surface Light Fusion screens using Mylar...(2006) and did so with varying degrees of success.

It can be done....brook no mistake. Just if you do decide to go there, do so with the realization and acceptance that it's a path only a few have traveled.
Some have tried...a few have died...and a few were / are gloriously happy with the results.

As for normal Light Fusion....I still do 'em if the screen size is under 100" diagonal. I find it is the absolute best possible application when I'm using a very dark Silver Fire application needed for high ambient light locations.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-29-2012, 01:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The degree of care...and the precision of getting the coating just right is harder when a 1st surface reflector is used. A 1/8" Mirror is much easier by comparison.

Light Fusion (...not Fission) is an application that I developed in conjunction with CMRA way back in 2003-4 I also was / am the first person to have attempted to make a DIY Screen out of a 1st surface Mirror (2004) It was horribly difficult...took 4 separate tries (..and 3 paint wash-offs) but the end result of a successful effort was spectacular. However, because of the obvious difficulty of getting the application of the paint exactly correct, as well as the sheer expense of a 1st Surface Mirror, I could not advocate suggesting that application to DIY'er. So.....I never did.

So it languished in basic obscurity until a few industrious souls did in fact make some 1st surface Light Fusion screens using Mylar...(2006) and did so with varying degrees of success.

It can be done....brook no mistake. Just if you do decide to go there, do so with the realization and acceptance that it's a path only a few have traveled.
Some have tried...a few have died...and a few were / are gloriously happy with the results.

As for normal Light Fusion....I still do 'em if the screen size is under 100" diagonal. I find it is the absolute best possible application when I'm using a very dark Silver Fire application needed for high ambient light locations.

As stated in the silver Fire thread, I'll be using a 6ft x 4ft, 1/4 thick plexiglass for the project. Would the Mylar in the link above be sufficient for the project?? Second, I'll need to know the distance the gun tip needs to be from the Plexiglass while spraying. Third, do i want the paint flow dial completely open on the gun. And Forth, how many coating do i need to put on the plexiglass( I think i read somewhere you want to do the flashlight test). If I'm correct, You don't do a duster coating for light fussion as in the Normal Silver fire spray application. Last, what is the % of spray overlap on each pass?? Thanks.
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-30-2012, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

As stated in the silver Fire thread, I'll be using a 6ft x 4ft, 1/4 thick plexiglass for the project. Would the Mylar in the link above be sufficient for the project??

I'd spend the small amount extra and get this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydroponics-My...ef=pd_sbs_lg_6

....so you have a slight amount of extra leeway for pulling / attaching.

Quote:
Second, I'll need to know the distance the gun tip needs to be from the Plexiglass while spraying.

14"

Quote:
Third, do i want the paint flow dial completely open on the gun.

Yes.

Quote:
And Forth, how many coating do i need to put on the plexiglass( I think i read somewhere you want to do the flashlight test).

A flash light test is an easy one....if the flash light is bright. One of the 19 LED jobs is probably the best to use. Have someone hold it straight toward the screen form 10' but do so at various heights, while you move around...side to side, up and down.

Myself, I will use the projector itself, covering during painting and uncovering it for a veritable "ACID' TEST".

If I'm correct, You don't do a duster coating for light fussion as in the Normal Silver fire spray application. Last, what is the % of spray overlap on each pass?? Thanks.[/quote]

Dusters are the BEST method to use to slowly build up layers evenly. With older, fine tip HVLP guns, the pace across the screen had to be much slower, and that also meant the thicker coatings were hard to keep even without putting too much paint up. Horizontal Banding often occurred for novice painters.

Apply dusters so the following row overlaps the previous row by a minimum of 60% to 70%. Start testing on your 5th Duster

fussion ???
No....it's fusion

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post #10 of 11 Old 04-30-2012, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I'd spend the small amount extra and get this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydroponics-My...ef=pd_sbs_lg_6

....so you have a slight amount of extra leeway for pulling / attaching.



14"



Yes.



A flash light test is an easy one....if the flash light is bright. One of the 19 LED jobs is probably the best to use. Have someone hold it straight toward the screen form 10' but do so at various heights, while you move around...side to side, up and down.

Myself, I will use the projector itself, covering during painting and uncovering it for a veritable "ACID' TEST".

If I'm correct, You don't do a duster coating for light fussion as in the Normal Silver fire spray application. Last, what is the % of spray overlap on each pass?? Thanks.

Dusters are the BEST method to use to slowly build up layers evenly. With older, fine tip HVLP guns, the pace across the screen had to be much slower, and that also meant the thicker coatings were hard to keep even without putting too much paint up. Horizontal Banding often occurred for novice painters.

Apply dusters so the following row overlaps the previous row by a minimum of 60% to 70%. Start testing on your 5th Duster

fussion ???
No....it's fusion[/quote]

okay, so want to stick with the duster coatings. yeah, I always add an extra s in fusion, lol.
Concerning the 60% to 70% overlap, when it comes to the very first swipe i make with the paint gun on the top of the plexiglass, do i make a full length swipe, allowing all the paint to hit the plexiglass or start out with the gun spray only hitting 60% to 70% of the the top of the plexiglass and the rest hitting the wall?? Im not sure if I'm accurately putting into words what I'm thinking, lol.
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post #11 of 11 Old 04-30-2012, 06:03 PM
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Hit the wall with at least 50% off the screen.

Finish the same way.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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