Does your wall have to be really flat/smooth to paint?? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 05-15-2012, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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recently bought a projector and now just getting into my screen but all the information on here is overwhelming.

I just ordered the no-name HVLP but have no clue on what to paint next - but before i get into that my real question is how smooth does the surface have to be?

I have the epson 3010 shooting a little over 17' away to a 150 inch screen on the orange peel texture wall. We sit about 16' away and as far as my eyes go - the image appears to clean.

Since i'm going 150" there does not appear to be a substrate that will fit my needs. I was original planning to join 3 sheets of sheetrock since i didnt want to sand the area down. But the more i keep looking at the screen and think about it - can i just not paint over my existing wall?

i've attached a few pic for ref. for some reason the skin tone are coming across much redder then in person - might be doe to my lack of camera skill...


but let me know what you guys think
Attachment 246729

Attachment 246730
LL
LL
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-15-2012, 09:31 PM
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A good paint job requires preparation. The time it takes to actually paint a surface is almost always less than the time it takes to prepare it to lay down the paint - and it shows if you don't. You have a $1500 projector, don't give it a cheaped out screen to shine on, get your moneys worth. It looks amazing now because you're in the honeymoon phase, of course it looks amazing its 150" and vibrant with color.

You can skim the wall lightly with drywall mud to get rid of the walls texture (make an even coat all the way across the surface) and lightly sand it so that its ready to accept the primer (its extremely easy to sand mud). Next, prime it with KILZ 2 Latex Primer give it a little sand (you're smoothing not removing) and you're ready to shoot.

What it comes down to is, why half ass the job? You've got the spray gun, you're going to buy $50-$100 worth of high quality paints and then spend all the time mixing them up just right. Take the extra time at the start to prep your surface and you will enjoy the results for years to come (instead of one day 6 months from now, wishing you did).
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post #3 of 13 Old 05-16-2012, 06:56 AM
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I "Know" you need more gain...and more gain means you cannot afford to have surface imperfections.

vullcan gives you good, sage advice.

I tried...and somehow hit a wrong button and all my drywall finishing instructions went up into smoke. now i gotta go make a somewhat honest living.

Answer these posers and I'll be back later with some real advice and help if you need it.

Height of ceiling?
Height of top of screen from floor?
Distance from Side Walls to sides of Screen?
Is PJ throw set in stone?
Will you be watching 3D content?

I'll leave you with this...Skimming your wall with Drywall Compound is easy stuff...as is the sanding smooth of same. You will need to consider it as being mandatory.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-16-2012, 03:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Height of ceiling?
Height of top of screen from floor?
Distance from Side Walls to sides of Screen?
Is PJ throw set in stone?
Will you be watching 3D content?

Thanks for the advice guys - i guess with the picture now i don't see any imperfection and just not sure how a smooth surface will improve it. I will proceed with a flat surface but i will build a frame and stick some drywall on and mount it on a french cleat.

To answer your questions above:
Height of ceiling?

11' - but have a sloping ceiling/wall on the left side
Height of top of screen from floor?
about 7 and a half feet. the projector is actually mounted with a 3' extension due to the sloped ceiling/wall
Distance from Side Walls to sides of Screen?
Not too much but i attached a pic for ref
Is PJ throw set in stone?
its mount but no way set is stone. primary reason for the distance is b/c i wanted the screensize. i have positioned the projector closer but the bigger screen just puts me in awe.
Will you be watching 3D content?
i don't have any 3D content but plan to build my collection so its in the plan.

what paint would you recommend with the above details?
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-16-2012, 03:50 PM
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Skimming an entire wall with drywall mud is easy? For someone who may have never done it before? NO WAY !! You are still going to have to tape and mud the tapered drywall joints. But that's a LOT easier than skimming the entire wall.
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post #6 of 13 Old 05-16-2012, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim McC View Post

Skimming an entire wall with drywall mud is easy? For someone who may have never done it before? NO WAY !! You are still going to have to tape and mud the tapered drywall joints. But that's a LOT easier than skimming the entire wall.


Not at all true.

While skimming involves only apply a light coat to fill in the depressed areas between the regularly spaces bumps that make up light texture, actual Joint taping and Mud-ing "and" Sanding requires at least 4 separate steps, judicious application of the compound, effective Feathering at the edges of the application, at least three steps of sanding....., and those joints better be feathered "WAY" out from the center and done right or they will show....especially under the intense light of projected content.

Besides...whose talking about the entire wall. Just the area within a Taped boundary. A big boundary, yes. But not the entire wall.

Skimming is as easy as sliding on the compound evenly, and keeping the pressure on the "flattened" edge of the 12" Knife. You only doing it lightly, and you only do each area of application in 1-2 swipes and then move on.
The resulting thickness is very thin.

You let that dry until no longer cool to the touch (6 hours minimum under good drying conditions...) and sanding down "ONLY" the ridges made by the Knife's edge, you then apply another Skim coat. These coats go on very quickly....and "EASILY"... ...because there really isn't much going on.

After the second coat, and a light "overall" sweep sanding using a 3" x 8" Fine Grit Sanding Sponge (Drywall Tools Section @ HD), usually a last, evenly applied Skim where you are careful not to press too hard or overwork the coating will leave you with enough of a thickness of a coat of Compound that a light sanding will provide a exceedingly smooth surface, ready to prime and paint.

Anything from barely noticeable pits or defects to Orange Peel texture is child's play to fix. Heavier "Texas Splatter-Wall" texture, not so much...but all that requires is a knockdown sanding using a medium grit Sponge to flatten the high points, then you "fill in" and then "smooth over" just like the Orange Peel.

Anyway...anyone can learn if they want to...and for those who are antsy...help is here every step of the way if it's needed. Few things are more forgiving than thinly applied coats of Drywall compound. Yes...sanding does produce dust, but of you "sweep" lightly, most dust produced winds up on your hands & shoes. But wear a Dust Rated Paper mask at least.

OK...back to our regularly scheduled programming.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hvp12345 View Post

Thanks for the advice guys - i guess with the picture now i don't see any imperfection and just not sure how a smooth surface will improve it. I will proceed with a flat surface but i will build a frame and stick some drywall on and mount it on a french cleat.

For one thing...your wall is actually masking defects because it's not even 1.0 gain. I suppose your eyesight might have something to do with it, based on how far away your watching. But I'm positive certain that if you go to within 3' of the surface, and look at any area where there is bright, panned (moving) content, you'd see the texture of the surface. If not...and if you have good, sharp vision, then what your calling "orange Peel" would have to really be just a slight dappled texture.

Orange Peel looks like the Skin on a healthy orange. Bumpy in most places, slightly "Pitted' in other places between bumps. Usually caused by applying too much paint so that it does not "set' quickly enough, or when another coat is applied too soon and the 1st coat absorbs and traps moisture, raising little "bumps".

Quote:


To answer your questions above:
Height of ceiling?

11' - but have a sloping ceiling/wall on the left side
Height of top of screen from floor?
about 7 and a half feet. the projector is actually mounted with a 3' extension due to the sloped ceiling/wall

Well that tells me a lot. At least the Top corner of the screen closest to the "slope" must be closer to the Ceiling the the opposite side of the screen is to the other Wall. It's that Sloped ceiling that will be the biggest reflector of the projected / reflected light...and the most detrimental hurdle to maintaining the best possible contrast under "ALL" conditions.

Make it the least reflective surface in the room, at least 5' out from the Screen Wall.

[quote]Distance from Side Walls to sides of Screen?
Not too much but i attached a pic for ref
Is PJ throw set in stone?
its mount but no way set is stone. primary reason for the distance is b/c i wanted the screensize. i have positioned the projector closer but the bigger screen just puts me in awe. [quote]

You still have a full 3'-5" to go forward before you'd lose any "diagonal inches"
Moving Forward to 14' 10" will still give you a lot of zoom adjust-ability, and the 3010 exhibits no deleterious effects to PQ at that level of Zoom

But what you do get us any increase in foot lambert of reflective light off the Screen. You jump fro 12 fl to 15 fl, a significant uptick when your dealing with a 150" diagonal screen.

Benefits if doing so?
  • watching 2D content you could set the PJ to Low lamp to preserve Lamp Life and further improve Contrast.
  • When you watch 3D content, you will start out with the brightest possible image.
  • If your really wise, you'll shoot for a Paint that will provide at least 1.3 gain.
  • At 1.3 gain, and 14' 10" throw, you'd achieve 20 fls...which is exactly where you really want to and need to be.

Quote:


Will you be watching 3D content?
i don't have any 3D content but plan to build my collection so its in the plan.

See above.

Quote:


what paint would you recommend with the above details?

RS-MaxxMudd LL sprayed onto that well skimmed wall.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-22-2012, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks for the responses MM.

I'll move the projector forward later since i have a vent a few feet in front of it.

in the mean time i will start building my frame and read thru the Maxx Mudd tread for supplies and painting tips...
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post #8 of 13 Old 05-22-2012, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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So after a few weeks of reading and notes - this is what i have so far....

Base Primer: Behr PREMIUM Interior Flat Enamel #1850, Zinnser Bullseye 123, Premium Kilz or don't matter as long as its a good quality white?
- is there a preferred one.
- Do i need to tint?
- do i need to dilute with water?

Spray method:
3 or 4 coats of dusted primer

Paint Mix
RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1
- is the below formula correct for the current mix? I was reading through the treads and there appears to be something different. even some mention of v2.5
- will the below give me coverage for a 150" screen or should i get double the amount?

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
20 oz. distilled/tap water

Spray method since i'm a newbie
6-7 duster coats of the mix

This is done by maintaining approx 14" from the Screen surface, and moving onto/across the Board at approximately 2-3 ft per second.Left to dry, each coat slowly deposits paint onto the surface/ eventually fills in completely....and the initial sparse coats double as a "Tacking Agent"....creating small dry bumps for additional layers to grab onto.

Very important. With both "Dusters" and any "Normal Coat", be certain to overlap the preceding Row by 70%.


Anything i am missing?
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post #9 of 13 Old 05-22-2012, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hvp12345 View Post

So after a few weeks of reading and notes - this is what i have so far....

Base Primer: Behr PREMIUM Interior Flat Enamel #1850, Zinnser Bullseye 123, Premium Kilz or don't matter as long as its a good quality white?
- is there a preferred one. Behr IFE
- Do i need to tint? NO
- do i need to dilute with water? Yes....add 30% water to volume of paint in the Cup and stir thoroughly.

Spray method:
3 or 4 coats of dusted primer 3 Dusters - very light sweep sanding with fine Sanding sponge....1 final slightly slower Duster

Paint Mix
RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1
- is the below formula correct for the current mix? I was reading through the treads and there appears to be something different. even some mention of v2.5
- will the below give me coverage for a 150" screen or should i get double the amount?

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz. Liquitex Basics Silver
12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat

12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
20 oz. distilled/tap water

Spray method since i'm a newbie
6-7 duster coats of the mix

This is done by maintaining approx 14" from the Screen surface, and moving onto/across the Board at approximately 2-3 ft per second.Left to dry, each coat slowly deposits paint onto the surface/ eventually fills in completely....and the initial sparse coats double as a "Tacking Agent"....creating small dry bumps for additional layers to grab onto.

Very important. With both "Dusters" and any "Normal Coat", be certain to overlap the preceding Row by 70%.


Anything i am missing?

I'm not going to go there........................................

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-23-2012, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks MM - only other question i have now - do you know how much coverage the above mix will give me? Not sure if i have to buy extra or double the quantities in the mix...
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post #11 of 13 Old 05-23-2012, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hvp12345 View Post

Thanks MM - only other question i have now - do you know how much coverage the above mix will give me? Not sure if i have to buy extra or double the quantities in the mix...

1 normal size mix should do the job but to play it safe, I'd up your com
ponent levels 50 percent:

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #12 of 13 Old 06-03-2012, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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i'm putting down the base coat now and sanding in between every two coats to remove the fuzzies.

For the RS-MaxxMudd coats - should there be sanding in between?
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post #13 of 13 Old 06-04-2012, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hvp12345 View Post

i'm putting down the base coat now and sanding in between every two coats to remove the fuzzies.

For the RS-MaxxMudd coats - should there be sanding in between?

Not initially if properly applied. However in some cases, a final very light sanding prior to the last 2 Dusters can really help obtain the smoothest finish possible.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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