Finally!! Silver Fire/White Fusion time this weekend - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 05-24-2012, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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SO, finally after months of saving I've got all the stuff to do my Silver Fire screen/ White Fusion screen. Since I'll have 3 days off this weekend it's the best time to do this.
I'll be video taping this whole process as well for others use..provided it comes out right, lol, but before getting started i have some questions and concerns that need to be tended to before i waste paint and a 1/4 inch plexiglass as well.
According to advice of others, in previous thread, i'll be spraying silver fire 2.0 for this project.
Currently, I have my TWH sandwiched between my wall and 1/4 plexiglass as we speak and have been projecting on it and dealing with the BIG BRIGHT SPOT reflecting from my projector. Here's a couple of current pics:

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/DSCF3856.jpg

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/DSCF3842.jpg

First question, is okay only having the TWH sandwiched between the wall and the plexiglass only as i currently have it or Should i add another piece of TWH behind the TWH that going to be the reflective source?? So that would make it Wall, TWH, TWH then Plexiglass. I'll be using mirror clips as in this photo:

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/DSCF3854.jpg

to firmly squish the TWH between the Wall and the plexiglass so as to give it a solid sandwich but wanted to make sure it was enough and didn't need to add another piece of TWH behind it.

Second, Is the main concern in doing a light fusion the thickness of the paint sprayed on top as I've discussed with others when it comes to this job. My plexiglass was in the shed a while and has some very minor nics and scratches in it and wanted to make it wouldn't mess up the whole ordeal. surface scratches that can be felt when going over it with my fingers and can be seen. Didn't know if i need to fill the scratches in or what first with a poly or something.

third, when cutting my plexiglass i goofed on a part on the top right and it ended coming out looking like this:

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/DSCF3843.jpg

Now, this outer part will actually covered with black felt so it wont been seen or projected on but not exactly sure how your edges have to be when doing this type of DIY screen. Do you even have to worry about the sides??? Is the main concern just getting the top coat even on the part that going to be projected on??? I wasn't sure if you had to worry about light escaping from the edges or if i have to seal the edges.

Forth, as stated by others i know the biggest concern when doing a light fusion screen is getting the application of the paint exactly correct according to MississippiMan. So I've come up with a...Idea on how I'm going to make sure this is as even as possible and stays on track while painting it.

I've decided to build a stand that will have guide lines on it, probably fishing line, that I will rest the gun on as I'm spraying across to keep everything at the right distance:

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...ideStrings.jpg

Ill have poles or something on each side of the TWH/Plexiglas with line on it that when the gun rest on and I follow along, the spray the gun will stay at a point where each successive coat will be 60% to 70% sprayed over the previous coat. If I recall MississippiMan said i want the gun tip to be 14 inches from the Plexiglass while spraying. So what I'll need to do first is see how wide, up and down, the spray pattern is so I'll know how far apart to put the strings. I'll do some test sprays with different type of paint and cardboard to make sure i can do such so that i don't pull the line down or out or something that will mess up the line that I'm painting as well as maintaining the same constant speed while traveling down the lines.

One of my main concerns is that the size of the spray pattern will change when the paint container starts to get lower but not sure about that and need to know if this is really an issue for those who have already sprayed a Silver fire mixture with the no name paint sprayer.

Finally, I've done a little model of what I'm expecting when painting this:

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...rayPattern.jpg

one question i have is, where on my drawing I have the 4th swipe overlapping the 3rd and the 2nd swipe. Is this something that will actually happen when spraying this setup?? Didn't know if you ever overlap 2 previous swipes instead of just one.

Well, I'm hoping i got all my questions in this thing and Thank you to those who read it and respond to help me out. I still need to read the The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread to give ready for this and I'll do that Saturday.
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post #2 of 15 Old 05-26-2012, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Come on guys. Starting this tomorrow and want to make sure I'm doing this right. Just need some of my concerns solved so i can go ahead with this. Thanks.
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post #3 of 15 Old 05-26-2012, 07:09 PM
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sorry,

in the middle of traveling from Memphis to Seattle via Car. Your post is a bit involved for me to answer with one hand. When I stop in a while I attempt to do so before I fall out.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #4 of 15 Old 05-26-2012, 07:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

sorry,

in the middle of traveling from Memphis to Seattle via Car. Your post is a bit involved for me to answer with one hand. When I stop in a while I attempt to do so before I fall out.

Mississippi man, thank you very much for being to reply to all these questions I've posted. I was afraid to go further with this till i have these issues solved first. I've been reading over the silver fire v 2.5 and some of the first silver fire thread and have been learning a lot. By what i've read i think those on top of the plexiglass will show with the contrast enhancing paint. I've searched the internet and according to EHow.com one way i've found to fill in those scratches and make it look almost as good as new is with Elmers school glue. It apparently dries clear and might do the job if. I'm currently trying it out on some spare plexiglass i have lying around to see how it will work.
I look forward to your advise on this before i get started tomorrow. Again, Thank you for your help. I'm both excited and cautious at the same time, lol.
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post #5 of 15 Old 05-26-2012, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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also, mississippiman, I'm trying to find the video you had of you spraying silver fire on something that i saw once but don't know where its at now. Do you have a link for that.
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post #6 of 15 Old 05-27-2012, 04:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

SO, finally after months of saving I've got all the stuff to do my Silver Fire screen/ White Fusion screen.
According to advice of others, in previous thread, i'll be spraying silver fire 2.0 for this project.
Currently, I have my TWH sandwiched between my wall and 1/4 plexiglass as we speak and have been projecting on it and dealing with the BIG BRIGHT SPOT reflecting from my projector. Here's a couple of current pics:

First question, is okay only having the TWH sandwiched between the wall and the plexiglass only as i currently have it or Should i add another piece of TWH behind the TWH that going to be the reflective source?? So that would make it Wall, TWH, TWH then Plexiglass. I'll be using mirror clips as in this photo:

to firmly squish the TWH between the Wall and the plexiglass so as to give it a solid sandwich but wanted to make sure it was enough and didn't need to add another piece of TWH behind it.

Dual sheets of TWH isn't necessary unless you find that the added thickness allows for a tighter grip to the wall with the Clips. That is the only advantage I can see.

Quote:
Second, Is the main concern in doing a light fusion the thickness of the paint sprayed on top as I've discussed with others when it comes to this job. My plexiglass was in the shed a while and has some very minor nics and scratches in it and wanted to make it wouldn't mess up the whole ordeal. surface scratches that can be felt when going over it with my fingers and can be seen. Didn't know if i need to fill the scratches in or what first with a poly or something.

Elmer's White School Glue will easily dissolve in water, so I would not suggest it's use. Better to use a Clear, paintable "water based" Adhesive Caulk and apply it sparingly onto the scratch, then smooth it level using a flat edge. Then take a dampened cloth and carefully wipe away any excess that lies outside the scratch's depression. Only attempt to fill scratches that you can actually feel with your Fingertips, not those you can simply see.

Quote:
third, when cutting my plexiglass i goofed on a part on the top right and it ended coming out looking like this:

Now, this outer part will actually covered with black felt so it wont been seen or projected on but not exactly sure how your edges have to be when doing this type of DIY screen. Do you even have to worry about the sides??? Is the main concern just getting the top coat even on the part that going to be projected on??? I wasn't sure if you had to worry about light escaping from the edges or if i have to seal the edges.

No worries there. Of more concern is the added thickness should you decide to use two sheets of TWH. Your already using 1/4" for the Plastic, so two additional 1/8" sheets mean a full 1/2" thickness of combined material. That could make framing the material more difficult, but more worrisome is that with a full 1/2" rise off the wall, when you spray the paint might tend to go on with less eveness on / along the edges. You really want the edges to be as flush as possible, or to add additional material outside the edges to even it up and create a flat "run off".

Quote:
Forth, as stated by others i know the biggest concern when doing a light fusion screen is getting the application of the paint exactly correct according to MississippiMan. So I've come up with a...Idea on how I'm going to make sure this is as even as possible and stays on track while painting it.

I've decided to build a stand that will have guide lines on it, probably fishing line, that I will rest the gun on as I'm spraying across to keep everything at the right distance:

Ill have poles or something on each side of the TWH/Plexiglas with line on it that when the gun rest on and I follow along, the spray the gun will stay at a point where each successive coat will be 60% to 70% sprayed over the previous coat. If I recall MississippiMan said i want the gun tip to be 14 inches from the Plexiglass while spraying. So what I'll need to do first is see how wide, up and down, the spray pattern is so I'll know how far apart to put the strings. I'll do some test sprays with different type of paint and cardboard to make sure i can do such so that i don't pull the line down or out or something that will mess up the line that I'm painting as well as maintaining the same constant speed while traveling down the lines.

One of my main concerns is that the size of the spray pattern will change when the paint container starts to get lower but not sure about that and need to know if this is really an issue for those who have already sprayed a Silver fire mixture with the no name paint sprayer.

Finally, I've done a little model of what I'm expecting when painting this:

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...rayPattern.jpg

one question i have is, where on my drawing I have the 4th swipe overlapping the 3rd and the 2nd swipe. Is this something that will actually happen when spraying this setup?? Didn't know if you ever overlap 2 previous swipes instead of just one.

That's a lot of worry and concern over something that just a little practice will effectively take care of. Believe me....trying to work with such a "string guide" is not the way to go about it. The speed on which you move across the surface helps you maintain a steady enough distance and height. When you drop just 30% to go back over the previous row, you pretty much can easily maintain the row height.

You really do not have a big screen....so you should not have to worry about your arm getting tired and wobbly. The No-Name sprayer will let you dust on the paint in less than a minute. Simply practice using the videos as guides.

Quote:
Well, I'm hoping i got all my questions in this thing and Thank you to those who read it and respond to help me out. I still need to read the The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread to give ready for this and I'll do that Saturday.

To find all the threads I've posted with painting videos, simply click on my name under my Avatar. Then click on "Go to MMan's Home Page". Then click on "Statistics"....then on "Find all Threads by MississippiMan"

Do that, and you'll find a great many threads dedicated to spraying.

But this in parting...., do EVERY coat as a duster with 70% overlap. Apply 4-5 such coats then test the surface reflection using a bare 100 watt light bulb held a the top edge of the screen or higher. Then move around and look at the screen from all angles...side to side / up & down, to see if you can see the bulb's actual reflection. After 4 Dusters it should be barely visible, and with each subsequent Duster get less & less noticeable. When it's gone upon close inspection, Dust one more time and your done.

So OK...thats about it for this early AM. I did in fact fall asleep rather quickly, so that allowed me "unfortunately" to awaken early enough to address these questions for you. In about 1 hour I'll be driving a 12 hour leg to Idaho, so my ability to interact will be limited.

Above all else, don't rush this thing. You've been planning it for a long while, and it deserves the care in the actual "doing" that you've given all your prior thinking.

I cannot recall where it is your located...but if you can do so...and need to, call me for real time advice. Look to your PM for the number.

Good luck and happy squirting.

MMan

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #7 of 15 Old 05-27-2012, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


Elmer's White School Glue will easily dissolve in water, so I would not suggest it's use. Better to use a Clear, paintable "water based" Adhesive Caulk and apply it sparingly onto the scratch, then smooth it level using a flat edge. Then take a dampened cloth and carefully wipe away any excess that lies outside the scratch's depression. Only attempt to fill scratches that you can actually feel with your Fingertips, not those you can simply see.

MMan

MississippiMan. How will the scratches on the screen be effected if i flip the plexiglass over where the near perfect side is now on the the outside and the flawed side is smashed up against the TWH. I'M guessing that would be better but wasn't sure if when the light hits the TWH it would reflect and reintroduce the scratches into the picture....Even as i write this it doesn't sound like something it would do but want to make sure.
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post #8 of 15 Old 05-27-2012, 07:21 PM
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It won't happen. You already know this from our conversation, but I'm posting the answer for the general consumption.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #9 of 15 Old 05-27-2012, 07:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

It won't happen. You already know this from our conversation, but I'm posting the answer for the general consumption.

hey MM, could you check your private messages. Have an important question for you. Thanks.
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post #10 of 15 Old 05-28-2012, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

hey MM, could you check your private messages. Have an important question for you. Thanks.

Been there....done that.

BTW, can you relate to the other Members your Home Depot experience with the Behr 1850?

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post #11 of 15 Old 05-28-2012, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Been there....done that.

BTW, can you relate to the other Members your Home Depot experience with the Behr 1850?

LOL, yeah sure. What i was doing wrong, was that I was giving him the number 1850 but that number isn't a color number it was the model number i believe. That why he couldn't find it. I'll post this on the silver fire v2.5 thread as well. If you guys try to give the #1850 as a paint number your going to be there for 15 minutes or more trying figure out what to do next. the #1850 is the model number according to home depot not the color number. Just look for the "Behr Ultra Pure White 1850 Premium Plus self- priming Interior Flat Enamel" as it says on the can. Hope this will help someone out there avoid stress and time like i had, lol. Thanks mississippi man for you help on all that.
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post #12 of 15 Old 06-04-2012, 02:01 AM
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Bumping this dedicated thread so the author can direct his comments to such for easy assimilation. (Borg speak)

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post #13 of 15 Old 06-04-2012, 10:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Make it so number one...LOL. Started this project 2 Saturdays ago but due to hiccups in things will finally, i say FINALLY get to finish it up this weekend. have everything taped off. My squirrel mixer will be here this week and the spraying will commence.
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post #14 of 15 Old 06-07-2012, 05:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Bumping this dedicated thread so the author can direct his comments to such for easy assimilation. (Borg speak)

We talked how you want a 60-70% overlap for each row sprayed. Which one of the two would be the best? Since, I'm doing this white fusion and need the top coat even which would be the Optimum % spray overlap, 60% or 70% or something else??
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post #15 of 15 Old 06-08-2012, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

We talked how you want a 60-70% overlap for each row sprayed. Which one of the two would be the best? Since, I'm doing this white fusion and need the top coat even which would be the Optimum % spray overlap, 60% or 70% or something else??

70% is best....but ya know that slight variables in overlap will occur, and if indeed slight, will not affect things overly much if at all.. The difference between 60% and 70% is slight...but 70% is suggested because if one is to err slightly, it's better to overlap more than needed than not enough and have the resulting weakly covered areas between rows to deal with.

The real issue is consistency in speed and distance, as well as maintaining a mix in the Gun that is of the same general viscosity so it sprays out equally with every application. Myself, I always mix / dilute my paint in a separate container from the one I plan to store / pour my paint from into the gun. After I dilute it, I then strain it into a 1 Gallon Can to observe the flow-through rate through the Filter. If it's all good, then during the actual painting, I need only to pour the paint directly into the Gun's Cup.

If an extra can is not available, then simply testing the viscosity with the Squirrel Cage Mixer (...paint should "pour" off the Mixer and the Turbine vanes "Pop" open quickly...) the one can just filter the Mix as it goes into the sprayer.

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