Need help with paint for screen... - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-04-2012, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I've read a bunch of threads on here and finally decided it would be best to sign up and ask...

I have an EPSON PowerLite 710 and it will be set at 10-11ft throw ratio. We have no windows in the room and wall is currently beige and we're very pleased with the picture already...

I'm building a frame out of trim, but what kind of paint do I need for the wall?

Thanks for any help
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-04-2012, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Btw, I'm just looking for a simple paint solution....not a complex mixture. I don't have a sprayer, so it will be rolled on.

Behr Silverscreen the way to go?
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-04-2012, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aubs84 View Post

Btw, I'm just looking for a simple paint solution....not a complex mixture. I don't have a sprayer, so it will be rolled on.

Behr Silverscreen the way to go?

No.

Go into Home Depot:

Ask for a Glidden Master Color Chart...and look for:
00NN 45/000 . . . "Dover Grey" [N7.3]

Have it mixed into a good paint, one with good leveling characteristics, and apply it using good quality roller with a modicum of care, and you'll have a overall better Gray Screen than the Behr Silver Screen can provide.

With the EP-PL 710 you have the lumens...and it would seem a "not too big Screen", so even on Low Lamp mode (recommended) you should have a bright, vibrant image whose Blacks have been considerably boosted (ie: lowered) Just be sure to re-calibrate the PJ to the shade of Gray the screen is so as to maintain a bright whites as possible.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-04-2012, 02:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

No.

Go into Home Depot:

Ask for a Glidden Master Color Chart...and look for:
00NN 45/000 . . . "Dover Grey" [N7.3]

Have it mixed into a good paint, one with good leveling characteristics, and apply it using good quality roller with a modicum of care, and you'll have a overall better Gray Screen than the Behr Silver Screen can provide.

With the EP-PL 710 you have the lumens...and it would seem a "not too big Screen", so even on Low Lamp mode (recommended) you should have a bright, vibrant image whose Blacks have been considerably boosted (ie: lowered) Just be sure to re-calibrate the PJ to the shade of Gray the screen is so as to maintain a bright whites as possible.


Great, thanks. Any suggestions on said "good paint" to mix it with? I'm a total novice at this stuff and have blown away by the info on this board.

I really appreciate the help.

What does Low Lamp mode accomplish?
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-04-2012, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aubs84 View Post

Great, thanks. Any suggestions on said "good paint" to mix it with? I'm a total novice at this stuff and have blown away by the info on this board.

I really appreciate the help.

What does Low Lamp mode accomplish?

PAINT: Glidden Professional White Base (Deep)

Low Lamp = Longer lamp Life....Better Contrast ...quieter Fan operation

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-06-2012, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Would black out cloth work better than using the paint previously discussed in this thread?
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-06-2012, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Aubs84 View Post

Would black out cloth work better than using the paint previously discussed in this thread?

Silver Screen can never be "correct" in how it provides a screen surface....color correct-wise. Bur "similar" shades of more neutral Grays can get the ball rolling. But...AA or any Gray is not a valid comparison...with their being "Gray painted surfaces"...not coated White Cloth. And "Gray" surfaces do things differently to a projected image, things they are intending to do. Black Out Cloth can do on;y one thing in common with any correctly painted surface....reflect an image. But it's not going to do so as effectively as even Silver Screen.

So would a Raw BOC Screen do as good or better a job than a "Color Corrected" Silver Screen?

Not a chance in the World. The ONLY possible advantage it has is that you don't have to paint anything. But then....you don't get much of anything anyway.

To be fair, for those opting for a pure BOC Screen, done right...stretched taunt...and hit with an exceptional image, it could be, would be...and is something wholly unexpected coming from...as it does...Light Blocking Material for Windows. But it falls short in many ways I'll not delve into here. Better, more luminous Projectors, better signal sources and content...all can make Raw BOC look better than it ever has....but where's the fun in knowing that it's still is working against providing the best image possible?

Painted upon, it can become something magical. There is the point to be made though that unless you "MUST" use BOC Material to construct a out-sized Screen ( 125" diagonal -up), there are many "more suitable" materials that can be considered....and a few of them need no painting. Imagine that?????

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-07-2012, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Good deal, thanks for all the help. We're using a little different trim around the edges because the Mrs. wants it to be a little prettier than everything she's seen online, but I hope to have this project knocked out by next week.

Knowing the pj I have and that it's in a room with no ambient light, what would be the ideal throw?
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post #9 of 16 Old 06-07-2012, 11:41 AM
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With that PJ and no light issues (artificial produced....not reflective) a 11' throw can give you between a 100" and 120" diagonal image. 34 fls with a 1.0 gain surface. That's quite a BRIGHT image.

If you go with a non-reflective Gray screen surface with .8 gain, you'd curtail that down to 27 ft lambert reflectivity.

Move the throw to 12' and you drop to 25 fl. Not enough to warrant the PITA of moving an existing installation IMO. cool.gif

But be advised that all the aforementioned figures are based upon "Normal Lamp Output". On the much desired Low Lamp" setting, the 710 will produced it's deepest contrast, and combined with the .8 gain Gray surface and the abundance of lumens you'll have great Black Levels and shadow detail.....all with an image that looks "Back-Lit LED" like.

And did I mentioned 33% longer bulb life?


....I cannot see you being a Unhappy Camper after all is said....and done. wink.gif

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-07-2012, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Pardon my ignorance, but higher gain is better, right? Sounds like Low Lamp mode and a grey screen surface at 11 feet is perfect, right?

What are fls?

Mississippi Man, I can't thank you enough for all the help. I would've been lost...
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post #11 of 16 Old 06-07-2012, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aubs84 View Post

Pardon my ignorance, but higher gain is better, right?

Often that is NOT the case. A brighter PJ hitting a "too High Gain" surface will make the screen produce so much reflectance that detail a subtle shadows are washed out or non existent. Contrast values (...the difference between the blackest "Black" and the brightest "White" or "Color"...) are dependent upon there being a degree of balance between the incoming light and the degree of reflected incoming light. A balance can always be reached....but one must make the effort to allow such to happen.
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Sounds like Low Lamp mode and a grey screen surface at 11 feet is perfect, right?

In this instance, that is what I would strongly recommend.
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What are fls?

foot-lambert
noun
(Mathematics & Measurements / Units) a former unit of luminance equal to the luminance of a surface emitting or reflecting 1 lumen per square foot.
A completely reflecting surface illuminated by 1 foot-candle has a luminance of 1 foot-lambert Abbreviation ft-L

The amount of Reflection is adjudged by the numerical standard. The higher the "foot lambert" value, the brighter the screen is.
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Mississippi Man, I can't thank you enough for all the help. I would've been lost...

Sometimes I feel like a 3 legged Seeing Eye Dog. I try...honest I do....but I'm not really sure how good a job I'm doing unless i receive the occasional "pat on the head". tongue.gif
......and sometimes I feel like I'm about to be "put down". eek.gif

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post #12 of 16 Old 06-28-2012, 10:40 AM
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so i am a complete newb and have been reading this place like crazy when i came across this page. i myself have the same epson 710 PJ but am displaying a massive 160 diagonal at 15.5 trow. i recently moved into a new house and the walls are no longer conducive to projecting. (dark brown flat walls). the previous house has a light grey paint that was good. now am also looking into a DIY paint on screen for under 200 bucks and would love a suggestion similar to the one you gave above.

thanks
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post #13 of 16 Old 06-28-2012, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by general001 View Post

so i am a complete newb and have been reading this place like crazy when i came across this page. i myself have the same epson 710 PJ but am displaying a massive 160 diagonal at 15.5 trow. i recently moved into a new house and the walls are no longer conducive to projecting. (dark brown flat walls). the previous house has a light grey paint that was good. now am also looking into a DIY paint on screen for under 200 bucks and would love a suggestion similar to the one you gave above.
thanks

Is the wall to be considered "paint-able" or will a substrate be necessary?

I'll suggest to you the use of Silver Fire 2.5 2.0 as a "best choice", followed by RS-MaxxMudd LL, the latter especially if you want to roll instead of spray.

Let's hope you can/want to spray though. wink.gif

Going either way you'll come in way far under a $200.00 budget if the wall can be utilized. Including the purchase of a $50.00 Electric HVLP gun as well as all the materials necessay.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #14 of 16 Old 06-28-2012, 11:40 AM
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already have a great sprayer and the wall is a brand new construction wall that is near perfect so im going straight on.
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post #15 of 16 Old 06-28-2012, 11:44 AM
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also i did a search on silver fire and maxxmudd ll and found so many threads. is there a little help to the actual mix and make of this. also is the silver fire supposed to be a first coat followed by the MM or is it one or the other, sorry if this is more asking then researching. i always hate when people what the info spoon fed but there is a tn of info in this place.
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post #16 of 16 Old 06-29-2012, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by general001 View Post

also i did a search on silver fire and maxxmudd ll and found so many threads. is there a little help to the actual mix and make of this. also is the silver fire supposed to be a first coat followed by the MM or is it one or the other, sorry if this is more asking then researching. i always hate when people what the info spoon fed but there is a tn of info in this place.

People always apologize when asking instead of researching....but still they have their mouth open wide for that proverbial "Spoon". biggrin.gif But fear not....we are great Baby Sitters & Diaper changers on here, and the stink of having to repeat things ad-nausium never bothers us.....much. redface.gif

The RS-MaxxMudd formula is simple enough....but going into Silver Fire requires precise mixing of 4 separate Color Tints. Even so, if any real degree of care is taken, it becomes a "not to difficult" thing to accomplish, and well worth the effort come the end results.

In any case, the best thing to do is to autor your own dedicated Thread devoted to your project. As far as I know of, no one on here has ever ignored a honest plea for assistance, and there just might be several respondents who canoffer you plenty of advice and encouragements.

As for me....I'm not going anywhere so make a choice and get started. cool.gif


BTW....I really like "Wall oriented" DIY Screen projects. They represent the epitome of value in a high performance Custom DIY Screen.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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