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post #1 of 43 Old 07-12-2012, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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A few years ago my buddy did a Black Flame Light Fusion screen, which I thought was just amazing. Fast forward to today - I want to do a mirror-based screen with an LED DLP portable projector. I'm definitely interested in the "glowy" look because my home theater project has kind of a retro theme to it. I'm looking at the Optoma ML500, if that helps: (source is a computer via HDMI; 720p-ish resolution is fine)

http://www.optomausa.com/products/detail/ML500

It will be in the basement, so plenty of light control. The mirror size will probably be between 50" and 70". So my question is, what would be the best paint mix for the following setup:

-LED pico projector
-Less than 75"
-Mirror for the screen
-Light-controlled room

Also, any advice on a mirror to get? Plastic mirror? Uncut bathroom mirror?
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post #2 of 43 Old 07-12-2012, 11:16 AM
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With light control, and that particular PJ, I'm gonna suggest a half-way measure. I don't think a full blown Black Flame / Silver Fire is advisable due to your Screen's proposed size. (...otherwise SF v2.5 1.0

I personally suggest RS-MaxxMudd LL with 1 0z SF Colorant added.

As for a Mirror, much depends upon your location. If you get a Plastic Mirror, (4' x 8' x 1/8") it can easily be cut down to your desired size. Those type mirrors are somewhat readily available at local Plastic Supply Houses. If you provide me with your City, I can help source one for you.

An alternative is to find / use a Full length Sliding Closet Door Mirror. It too can be cut using a proper Glass Cutting utensil, but it still carries with it a much higher degree of risk of damage compared to a Plastic variety. (...but it will also be less expensive...)

If course your spraying, so be sure to acquire a No-Name HVLP from Gleem Paints before they are all gone.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #3 of 43 Old 07-12-2012, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

With light control, and that particular PJ, I'm gonna suggest a half-way measure. I don't think a full blown Black Flame / Silver Fire is advisable due to your Screen's proposed size. (...otherwise SF v2.5 1.0
I personally suggest RS-MaxxMudd LL with 1 0z SF Colorant added.
As for a Mirror, much depends upon your location. If you get a Plastic Mirror, (4' x 8' x 1/8") it can easily be cut down to your desired size. Those type mirrors are somewhat readily available at local Plastic Supply Houses. If you provide me with your City, I can help source one for you.
An alternative is to find / use a Full length Sliding Closet Door Mirror. It too can be cut using a proper Glass Cutting utensil, but it still carries with it a much higher degree of risk of damage compared to a Plastic variety. (...but it will also be less expensive...)
If course your spraying, so be sure to acquire a No-Name HVLP from Gleem Paints before they are all gone.

I'm in Hartford, Connecticut, although I travel a lot in the area for my job, so anywhere in central CT is fine. Or wherever. I don't mind a drive biggrin.gif It sounds like a plastic one would be ideal due to the cutting method. Any tips for putting a frame on? If I remember right, JoAnn's black velvet was the stuff to go with. Not sure if there's a popular mounting method for doing a frame on a DIY screen or not...

I was going to roll since I don't have a sprayer, but I'm always up for cheap new tools! Is this the one you're talking about?

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

If I'm reading that right, you get the whole kit (sprayer + pump) for $50?? For that price, I'll snag one right now, haha. Any tips on using it? Any other extras to pickup?
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post #4 of 43 Old 07-12-2012, 12:05 PM
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This just came my way by virtue of another member's adroit searching skills.

Get the sprayer here instead:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRACO-HV2900-39-CFM-450W-HVLP-House-Paint-Spray-Station-Machine-System-Painter-/230791007590#ht_4652wt_1140

I'll do some checking on the Mirror's availability in your area.

So far, Boston, Mass seems to be the closest.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #5 of 43 Old 07-12-2012, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaido View Post

I'm in Hartford, Connecticut, although I travel a lot in the area for my job, so anywhere in central CT is fine. Or wherever. I don't mind a drive biggrin.gif It sounds like a plastic one would be ideal due to the cutting method. Any tips for putting a frame on? If I remember right, JoAnn's black velvet was the stuff to go with. Not sure if there's a popular mounting method for doing a frame on a DIY screen or not...
I was going to roll since I don't have a sprayer, but I'm always up for cheap new tools! Is this the one you're talking about?
http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html
If I'm reading that right, you get the whole kit (sprayer + pump) for $50?? For that price, I'll snag one right now, haha. Any tips on using it? Any other extras to pickup?

You are going to want to order a smaller (1.5mm) needle kit from Graco. I don't remember where I got the information, but somewhere I learned that the Graco ships with a 2mm needle.

Based on my experience, I am confident you will have much better luck with the 1.5mm needle (which threw PLENTY of paint for me) than the 2mm needle.
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post #6 of 43 Old 07-12-2012, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NewGate88 View Post

You are going to want to order a smaller (1.5mm) needle kit from Graco. I don't remember where I got the information, but somewhere I learned that the Graco ships with a 2mm needle.
Based on my experience, I am confident you will have much better luck with the 1.5mm needle (which threw PLENTY of paint for me) than the 2mm needle.

1.5mm + sprayer kit, sounds good! The kit was $40 shipped off eBay...shows up Wednesday!

Boston is no problem, I'm usually up there once a month.
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post #7 of 43 Old 07-12-2012, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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1.5mm + sprayer kit, sounds good! The kit was $40 shipped off eBay...shows up Wednesday!
Boston is no problem, I'm usually up there once a month.

Cheapest I've seen the 1.5mm tip go for is around $30 shipped:

http://www.amazon.com/0-06-Brass-Tip-Needle-HV3500/dp/B004BG6DIM

Worth the investment?
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post #8 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 01:27 AM
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Kaido,

I'll get you a price, but if there is a delay in picking up afterward, it could change, or inventory availability might. It might require pre-paying for hold, if such is possible.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #9 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 04:40 AM - Thread Starter
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No sweat. I'm only 2 hours away, so I can just buzz up after work if it's a time-sensitive thing. I have to pick up another HT item off Craigslist anyway, so I'll be doing some driving regardless tongue.gif
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post #10 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaido View Post

Cheapest I've seen the 1.5mm tip go for is around $30 shipped:
http://www.amazon.com/0-06-Brass-Tip-Needle-HV3500/dp/B004BG6DIM
Worth the investment?

It was for me.

I actually bought the 1.0mm, 1.5mm, and the 3.0mm. My thought was that different needle sizes makes the Graco suitable for a wide variety of uses. I plan to use the 3.0mm needle to paint something a lot bigger than a screen. And who knows when I might want to paint something smaller with the need for a very fine finish with the 1.0mm.
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post #11 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 07:01 AM
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I buy my Needle kits directly from the Mfg, so I'm certain they are the right ones. The Needle Kit listed directly above is for a HV3500....not a HV2900

Is there any difference? I cannot say for certain....but if the Mfg states that a particular part is designated for a particular Gin, I tend to go that direction.

Personally, I'm anxious to know if the needles available for $30.00 incl. Shipping are the right ones. That would be wondermous indeed.

BTW, although I have a 1.0 mm needle and a 1.5mm also, I have yet myself needed to change from the 2.0mm. When correct spraying is done, "Duster fashion", the amount of paint laid down is not excessive. In fact it allows me to paint a 54" x 96" Screen surface in under 50 sec. But granted, with the amount of paint it does squirt, there is little room for error as far as one maintaining bith the correct distance and speed to avoid runs or drips.

A 1.5mm needle should be a good compromise, but one must be careful to practice with such, and note both the pattern size, droplet size, and amount of coverage obtained. It seems intuitive to me to expect that the number of Duster Coats would rise proportionately to the lessor amount of paint being applied by the 1.5'er. But then again, the smaller droplets will tend to dry more quickly, so down time between coatings might be lessened by an appreciable amount.

Here is a link to the Mfg site:

http://www.earlex.com/hvlp.php

Call 'em and ask about the compatibility of the needle Kits for the 3500 vs 2900

Just above all else, practice on something toss-able. A 3/8" x 4' x 8' sheet of Drywall is a pretty cheap palette to experiment on.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #12 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 07:31 AM
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OK Kaido,

There is a Piedmont Plastics in Boston that has a few sheets of 4' x 8' x 1/8" Mirrored Acrylic @ $165.00 per.
Another less expensive alternative, dependent upon how you plan to mount your screen, would be to choose Clear Acrylic in the same size @ $69.16 per and get a roll of Mylar from a Hydroponic Store locally (...or Online...) and back the Clear with it.

Inventory on both items are pretty low ( 2-3 sheets of each on hand ) so procrastination isn't advisable.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #13 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I buy my Needle kits directly from the Mfg, so I'm certain they are the right ones. The Needle Kit listed directly above is for a HV3500....not a HV2900
Is there any difference? I cannot say for certain....but if the Mfg states that a particular part is designated for a particular Gin, I tend to go that direction.
Personally, I'm anxious to know if the needles available for $30.00 incl. Shipping are the right ones. That would be wondermous indeed.
BTW, although I have a 1.0 mm needle and a 1.5mm also, I have yet myself needed to change from the 2.0mm. When correct spraying is done, "Duster fashion", the amount of paint laid down is not excessive. In fact it allows me to paint a 54" x 96" Screen surface in under 50 sec. But granted, with the amount of paint it does squirt, there is little room for error as far as one maintaining bith the correct distance and speed to avoid runs or drips.
A 1.5mm needle should be a good compromise, but one must be careful to practice with such, and note both the pattern size, droplet size, and amount of coverage obtained. It seems intuitive to me to expect that the number of Duster Coats would rise proportionately to the lessor amount of paint being applied by the 1.5'er. But then again, the smaller droplets will tend to dry more quickly, so down time between coatings might be lessened by an appreciable amount.
Here is a link to the Mfg site:
http://www.earlex.com/hvlp.php
Call 'em and ask about the compatibility of the needle Kits for the 3500 vs 2900
Just above all else, practice on something toss-able. A 3/8" x 4' x 8' sheet of Drywall is a pretty cheap palette to experiment on.

Yup, that's actually where I got the part number from - the HV3500 just happens to be the only one listed on the reseller website. Per the Graco HV2900 product page:

http://www.spray-station.com/HV2900.html

"For fine finishing projects we strongly recommend you invest in a 1.5mm tip and needle set (pt no HVACV15)."

The same line is listed on the Earlex HV3500 website:

http://earlexproducts.com/earlex-paint-sprayer/earlex-hvlp-hv3500-spray-station

So apparently the HVACV15 works on both the Graco HV2900 and the Earlex HV3500, although Amazon only lists the HV3500 in the search: (and also calls it a 0.06" needle instead of a 1.5mm)

http://www.amazon.com/0-06-Brass-Tip-Needle-HV3500/dp/B004BG6DIM

It looks like Graco is a rebrand of the Earlex products. I'll order one up, see if it fits, and report back! Even for $70 total ($40 shipped off eBay for the refurb HV2900 + $30 shipped for the 1.5mm needle), that still beats buying an airtank and sprayer and attachments...

What exactly does the needle do? Does it affect the fineness of the spray or do a larger spray pattern or something?
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post #14 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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OK Kaido,
There is a Piedmont Plastics in Boston that has a few sheets of 4' x 8' x 1/8" Mirrored Acrylic @ $165.00 per.
Another less expensive alternative, dependent upon how you plan to mount your screen, would be to choose Clear Acrylic in the same size @ $69.16 per and get a roll of Mylar from a Hydroponic Store locally (...or Online...) and back the Clear with it.
Inventory on both items are pretty low ( 2-3 sheets of each on hand ) so procrastination isn't advisable.

Thanks much! What would you recommend - does the clear/Mylar method produce results pretty close to the real stuff? I know I can get large sheets of clear acrylic locally, and it looks like reflective Mylar is about $20 for a large 48" x 25' roll (I'd assume 2 strips with some spray adhesive?).

I think I may just go with the default size (96" diagonal?) and tinker with the room layout instead of cutting. I can always adjust with masking if I need to. How do people typically put a border on these things?
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post #15 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 10:42 AM
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What exactly does the needle do? Does it affect the fineness of the spray or do a larger spray pattern or something?

The needle / nozzle size dictates how fine the sprayed droplets will be by increasing the degree of atomization by lowering the amount of paint exiting the Gun in relationship to the amount of air that is mixing with the paint. As the trigger is pulled back and the needle retracts, the corresponding "nozzle" opening will only allow so much paint to exit. When you order the smaller needle, you also get a nozzle that has a smaller orifice.

No matter what size needle assembly is used, with these HVLP units, always run the gun at full output and thin the paint so it exists smoothly.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #16 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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The needle / nozzle size dictates how fine the sprayed droplets will be by increasing the degree of atomization by lowering the amount of paint exiting the Gun in relationship to the amount of air that is mixing with the paint. As the trigger is pulled back and the needle retracts, the corresponding "nozzle" opening will only allow so much paint to exit. When you order the smaller needle, you also get a nozzle that has a smaller orifice.
No matter what size needle assembly is used, with these HVLP units, always run the gun at full output and thin the paint so it exists smoothly.

OK, so smaller needle = finer spray. Nice.

How's this look for a reflective Mylar material?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REFLECTIVE-MYLAR-FILM-4-x-25-MYLAR-ROLL-M001-/270972628005?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f173a2c25#ht_2373wt_1164

Roll that out in two 48" layers and use some spray adhesive on the back of clear plexi, then paint the front?
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post #17 of 43 Old 07-13-2012, 12:10 PM
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OK, so smaller needle = finer spray. Nice.
How's this look for a reflective Mylar material?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/REFLECTIVE-MYLAR-FILM-4-x-25-MYLAR-ROLL-M001-/270972628005?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f173a2c25#ht_2373wt_1164
Roll that out in two 48" layers and use some spray adhesive on the back of clear plexi, then paint the front?

I'd apply the Mylar to the wall, and overlay the Plexi. Very few "Clear adhesive" sprays are really Clear enough or allow much time for any necessary repositioning. If the wall is really flat, simply tacking up the Mylar and overlaying the Plexi would probably suffice.

To me.... the best possible route would be cutting the Plexi to 1" to 2" oversize on every side, so I could first apply the MYLAR to the wall where it's boarders exceed the outside dimensions of the Plexi, then overlay the Plexi and secure it using "Hand Tightened" 1-3/4" Truss Head screws run through pre drilled Holes within that 2" boarder area. Your Trim would then overlay the Screws yet still protrude another 1.25" past the edges of the Plexi, and be itself attached to the wall using 2" finish nails. You would need to use some 1/8" material to fur out the gap between the Plexi and trim so it would sit level and snug, but that's a pretty minor logistical concern.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #18 of 43 Old 07-14-2012, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I'd apply the Mylar to the wall, and overlay the Plexi. Very few "Clear adhesive" sprays are really Clear enough or allow much time for any necessary repositioning. If the wall is really flat, simply tacking up the Mylar and overlaying the Plexi would probably suffice.
To me.... the best possible route would be cutting the Plexi to 1" to 2" oversize on every side, so I could first apply the MYLAR to the wall where it's boarders exceed the outside dimensions of the Plexi, then overlay the Plexi and secure it using "Hand Tightened" 1-3/4" Truss Head screws run through pre drilled Holes within that 2" boarder area. Your Trim would then overlay the Screws yet still protrude another 1.25" past the edges of the Plexi, and be itself attached to the wall using 2" finish nails. You would need to use some 1/8" material to fur out the gap between the Plexi and trim so it would sit level and snug, but that's a pretty minor logistical concern.

Well now you've got me thinking...I used a product called Envirotex Lite on a recent project, which is basically a clear pour-on decorative epoxy sealer for indoor use. They have a 1-gallon kit for $70 that would cover a 48" x 96" surface and can be spread in a 1/8" thickness (there's a plastic spreader available with notches for thickness). Here's a photo example on a bar countertop:

http://eti-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/EnvirotexLiteBarTop-123.jpg

If I'm going to go the Mylar route, then I can do this on a large piece of plywood or MDF - cover the wood in Mylar, pour on the Envirtox Lite, paint it, then trim it. My plan was to have the screen floating anyway (not tied onto a wall), so that would work out pretty nicely. $20 for the Mylar, $70 for the Envirotex Lite, and then whatever the wood/velvet/mounting/finishing materials cost. Might be a fun route to try. Mylar seems to be the cheapest reflective option...I've seen stuff like Krylon's "Looking Glass" spray paint which does a mirror effect, but I think the cost would add up pretty quickly versus just a long roll of Mylar.
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post #19 of 43 Old 07-14-2012, 08:31 PM
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I can't say for sure, but it seems like there is a big difference between a pour on High Gloss material and a optically clear piece of Acrylic.

While I can applaud your imaginative thinking, I cannot really get behind such deviations from the norm.

But that's me...and you do have the intrinsic right to go down any road that seems feasible to you to try...just as if I never said anything to the contrary. Successes can come from unlikely sources. Considering how unlikely your idea is to pan out well, it may just be geared to surprise us all. biggrin.gif

But really though, the entire reason such time and effort was spent qualifying and quantifying the DIY apps we advocate was to go a long way toward delivering the best possible results with just a bit more than a hope and a vague promise of success. I personally will spend pretty much whatever time is needed to help a Member be assured such results. Such an experiment as your envisioning looks to have no real assurance built in....just that "vague hope" it will work. That's way too close to having the potential of being a wasted effort (....and a waste of cash...) for me to accept or get behind.

Simply stated, I'd rather see you attempt to use a clear adhesive to apply the Mylar to the Plastic than your trying to flow-coat over a Mylar/Plywood-?-MDF base. Shoot, taping up the Mylar, then screwing up some Acrylic sheeting....? How simple and assured is that in comparison to your last idea??

I still see "sandwiching" the Mylar between the Wall and the clear Acrylic and painting on top the Acrylic as the only "sure-fire" method that has been discussed so far. Short of using an actual Acrylic Mirror.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #20 of 43 Old 07-15-2012, 07:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I can't say for sure, but it seems like there is a big difference between a pour on High Gloss material and a optically clear piece of Acrylic.
While I can applaud your imaginative thinking, I cannot really get behind such deviations from the norm.
But that's me...and you do have the intrinsic right to go down any road that seems feasible to you to try...just as if I never said anything to the contrary. Successes can come from unlikely sources. Considering how unlikely your idea is to pan out well, it may just be geared to surprise us all. biggrin.gif
But really though, the entire reason such time and effort was spent qualifying and quantifying the DIY apps we advocate was to go a long way toward delivering the best possible results with just a bit more than a hope and a vague promise of success. I personally will spend pretty much whatever time is needed to help a Member be assured such results. Such an experiment as your envisioning looks to have no real assurance built in....just that "vague hope" it will work. That's way too close to having the potential of being a wasted effort (....and a waste of cash...) for me to accept or get behind.
Simply stated, I'd rather see you attempt to use a clear adhesive to apply the Mylar to the Plastic than your trying to flow-coat over a Mylar/Plywood-?-MDF base. Shoot, taping up the Mylar, then screwing up some Acrylic sheeting....? How simple and assured is that in comparison to your last idea??
I still see "sandwiching" the Mylar between the Wall and the clear Acrylic and painting on top the Acrylic as the only "sure-fire" method that has been discussed so far. Short of using an actual Acrylic Mirror.

Sounds like acrylic is the way to go. I'll get pricing locally this week, although I suspect it may be nearly as cost-effective just to snag the pre-made mirrored sheet.
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post #21 of 43 Old 07-16-2012, 12:48 AM
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The Mirror would simplify things greatly.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #22 of 43 Old 07-17-2012, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I received the spray gun today; the needle should be in this weekend (was about $32 shipped from Amazon.com). Here's a review on Amazon for the "0.06" Brass Tip and Needle Kit for HV3500":

"Not a professional painter but the tip worked great with my Graco HV2900. I used it to paint the trim during our kitchen remodel."

Crossing my fingers! I also have some house painting to do next month, so this works out great! wink.gif
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post #23 of 43 Old 07-17-2012, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Is 1/4" glass mirror too thick? I may have an opportunity to pick up a very large glass mirror (5' x 7' - not quite 4' x 8', but it should do!) in a couple weeks, but I measured the piece tonight and it's a quarter inch. Too thick for our purposes?
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post #24 of 43 Old 07-18-2012, 05:30 AM
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Is 1/4" glass mirror too thick? I may have an opportunity to pick up a very large glass mirror (5' x 7' - not quite 4' x 8', but it should do!) in a couple weeks, but I measured the piece tonight and it's a quarter inch. Too thick for our purposes?

1/4" can work, but the main caveats are the weight, risk of breakage, proper mounting ***, and the difficulty / expense of having it cut to size (84" x 47") Your already at 84", but the Mirror would have to have 13" taken off along the long edge.
*** Both "Mirror Mastic" and a supportive edge (...the Trim can serve that purpose...) would be essentially required.

Personally, unless the Glass Mirror was obscenely inexpensive (...as in virtually free...) and the need for the "Light Fusion" advantage really great (...very dark Screen...) I'd either opt for Acrylic or revert downward to Sintra.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #25 of 43 Old 07-18-2012, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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1/4" can work, but the main caveats are the weight, risk of breakage, proper mounting ***, and the difficulty / expense of having it cut to size (84" x 47") Your already at 84", but the Mirror would have to have 13" taken off along the long edge.
*** Both "Mirror Mastic" and a supportive edge (...the Trim can serve that purpose...) would be essentially required.
Personally, unless the Glass Mirror was obscenely inexpensive (...as in virtually free...) and the need for the "Light Fusion" advantage really great (...very dark Screen...) I'd either opt for Acrylic or revert downward to Sintra.

Yup, free.

Actually three of them...the big one is 5' x 7' and the other two are maybe 4' x 7'. I'm remodeling a room for my parents next month that has those three along one wall and they don't want to keep the mirrors. I would definitely have use for all 3, and since I already have the HVLP gun, might as well! Found an interesting-looking (and cheap) glass-cutting tool on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/CVF-Supply-Glass-Cutter-Pliers/dp/B0007LI982/

Alternatively, I could just be lazy and mask off the long side with a decorative frame or velvet. Thanks for the Mirror Mastic tip, that stuff looks like PL Premium Adhesive for mirrors, very nice!

However, if the Silver Fire Light Fusion screen is currently the "best" screen to go with, I'm open to doing that as well, even if it's a mirror-free design. Still waiting on the needle to arrive, so plenty of time to tinker with ideas smile.gif
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post #26 of 43 Old 07-18-2012, 12:19 PM
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Obviously, using a 4' x 7'er would be ideal as you'd be within 1' of an exact dimension for the 47" x 84" 16:9 format.

......or tile them altogether for a GINORMAS LF screen. eek.gif

Yeah. I like that idea. wink.gif

To quote James T. Kirk;
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Obviously, using a 4' x 7'er would be ideal as you'd be within 1' of an exact dimension for the 47" x 84" 16:9 format.
......or tile them altogether for a GINORMAS LF screen. eek.gif
Yeah. I like that idea. wink.gif

I'm gonna need a bigger house biggrin.gif

On a tangent, are there any DIY mixes for rear-projection screens? I saw some purchasable ones from Screen Goo, didn't know if the same tech had made it into the DIY community.
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post #28 of 43 Old 07-31-2012, 02:32 PM - Thread Starter
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The 1.5mm fine-tip needle finally showed up - good news, fits perfectly! Here's the seller I got it from on Amazon for $31.23 shipped:

http://www.amazon.com/0-06-Brass-Tip-Needle-HV3500/dp/B004BG6DIM

Note that it took awhile and the delivery estimate was off - I think they shipped it USPS and it didn't have tracking. Installation was simple - pop off the air cap ring and air cap, slide out the spray direction plate (the lever piece), use the plastic tool to pop out the metal fluid tip, and then flip the plastic tool around and unscrew the needle. Then do the reverse - screw the needle in, push the fluid tip in, push the lever on, hold the air cap on and tighten the ring around it all (not too tight! lever will be hard to move otherwise).
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I'll be taking a look at the mirrors this weekend to see how they are attached to the wall (for removal). I think what I'm going to do is build a sort of a latticed frame and then mount the mirror to that, so that I don't have to permanently mount the screen to the wall and can take it with me when I move. MississippiMan, the recipe I'm planning on following (at your suggestion) is "RS-MaxxMudd LL with 1 0z SF Colorant added."

RS-MaxMudd LL recipe: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1139061/rs-maxxmudd-mix-the-official

SF Colorant recipe: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1311989/the-official-silver-fire-v-2-thread

When you say SF Colorant, are you referring to the Hue recipe?
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post #30 of 43 Old 08-01-2012, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaido View Post

I'll be taking a look at the mirrors this weekend to see how they are attached to the wall (for removal). I think what I'm going to do is build a sort of a latticed frame and then mount the mirror to that, so that I don't have to permanently mount the screen to the wall and can take it with me when I move. MississippiMan, the recipe I'm planning on following (at your suggestion) is "RS-MaxxMudd LL with 1 0z SF Colorant added."
RS-MaxMudd LL recipe: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1139061/rs-maxxmudd-mix-the-official
SF Colorant recipe: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1311989/the-official-silver-fire-v-2-thread
When you say SF Colorant, are you referring to the Hue recipe?

(Color Components)
100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
16ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
9ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

Liquitex Basics Gold 1.50 oz (...get a small tube of this and have it handy in case you notice any tendency of the completed Mix/Colorant to push toward Blue)

Be careful using those Glass Mirrors!

To quote James T. Kirk;
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