which screen paint for BenQ w7000 at 135"? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 08-27-2012, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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First off, this forum has been a godsend so far. thanks to all you smart people! I know my answers are already in these forums, but I was hoping to get some of you to sign off before I buy paint/materials.

here's my setup:


benq w7000

8 ft cieling w/ 12' x 8' of black canvas wrapped "floating ceiling" above where the screen will be. this is how I'm combating the white ceiling in the rest of the room.

screen wall is flat navy, w/ black book shelfs to be positioned a few inches from the left and right side of the screen to "box" it in.

white carpet in room, w/ dark brown rug in front of screen.

occasional low-to-moderate ambient light for sports, etc.

mostly used in dark room setting for movies with very little ambient light.



thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 22 Old 08-27-2012, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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sorry, I know this question has been asked in 55 different ways...but I'd really like to get the final nod from you guys before buying any paint.
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post #3 of 22 Old 08-27-2012, 06:37 PM
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Paint the sides of the Book Cases with Disney's Mouse Ears...a "Disney Color" found at Home Depot. It's the blackest, least reflective paint around.

But if the book cases are really close in, then you want to strongly consider this stuff.
http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flock.htm < Read about it... >
http://www.fpi-protostar.com/hitack.htm < Find it here...>

FPR-2 Hi-tack flocked light trap material "mini-roll"; self-adhesive (30" width x 200" length roll)

It is the most light absorbent material in existence....and you'll need it. Black paint will, when subjected to intense light, shine "Blue".


Pretty much everything else looks good.
With the 7000 in the environment as depicted, RS-Maxx Mudd Standard or LL will either do you rightly.

As for the substrate of choice to paint on.....the Wall if pristine and well prepped. As for anything else you might consider using...I cannot narrow down the choices because you did not relate Screen size.

Your turn

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #4 of 22 Old 08-27-2012, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Paint the sides of the Book Cases with Disney's Mouse Ears...a "Disney Color" found at Home Depot. It's the blackest, least reflective paint around.
But if the book cases are really close in, then you want to strongly consider this stuff.
http://www.fpi-protostar.com/flock.htm < Read about it... >
http://www.fpi-protostar.com/hitack.htm < Find it here...>
FPR-2 Hi-tack flocked light trap material "mini-roll"; self-adhesive (30" width x 200" length roll)
It is the most light absorbent material in existence....and you'll need it. Black paint will, when subjected to intense light, shine "Blue".
Pretty much everything else looks good.
With the 7000 in the environment as depicted, RS-Maxx Mudd Standard or LL will either do you rightly.
As for the substrate of choice to paint on.....the Wall if pristine and well prepped. As for anything else you might consider using...I cannot narrow down the choices because you did not relate Screen size.
Your turn

Thanks, MississippiMan!

I'm not sure I know what you mean by "did not relate screen size".

I'm aiming for about 135-140". the front row of seats (single couch)will be around 14' feet from the screen. there will also be a slightly elevated row behind the couch (bar...eventually)

here, this may help:

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the shelves aren't in there, and the screen is sized closer to 110" to scale in that pic. also not pictured is the "floating ceiling" that runs 12 feet wide, in relation to the screen, and extends 8 feet out from the screen wall. I will post pics of the ceiling tomorrow if I can find my usb cable!

also, from the floor to the "floating cieling" is about 8'.

thanks once again!
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post #6 of 22 Old 08-27-2012, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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by the way, as you can clearly see, we will be in serious need of some light blocking curtains!

any suggestions there? I've seen some on amazon that get decent reviews...but they look a little funky...kind of a corduroy look.
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post #7 of 22 Old 08-28-2012, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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forgot to add...3d is relatively important to me!
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post #8 of 22 Old 08-29-2012, 05:26 AM - Thread Starter
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sorry to bump, guys...but I need to order my paints today. thanks in advance.
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post #9 of 22 Old 08-29-2012, 09:03 AM
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Sorry about not noticing the 135" part of your Thread's title. I suppose I had my eyes wide shut. cool.gif

Big Screen
3D
Light Control on the Sliding Door and forward Window


RS-MaxxMudd LL directly onto the wall.

or........

S-I-L-V-E-R (..that wall has to be...or made to be almost perfectly for this application, but probably nothing is better as far as a painted 3D surface....)

Spraying is strongly suggested for the former, and absolutely required for the latter.

make your Throw distance 16' -6" for best results.


PS....I was just composing this reply when your PM notice popped up, so don't think you were rushing me or anything........ biggrin.gif


(I gotta learn how to use the "Sketch-up" program)

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #10 of 22 Old 08-29-2012, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

S-I-L-V-E-R (..that wall has to be...or made to be almost perfectly for this application, but probably nothing is better as far as a painted 3D surface....)

Thanks, MMan! can you expand on "made to be perfectly" are you referring to prepping the wall? if so, do you mean perfect in terms of flatness? smoothness?

and I assume you're referring to the silverfire mix?
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post #11 of 22 Old 08-29-2012, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmicronix View Post

Thanks, MMan! can you expand on "made to be perfectly" are you referring to prepping the wall? if so, do you mean perfect in terms of flatness? smoothness?
and I assume you're referring to the silverfire mix?

oh yeah...and the "sketch up" software is not software at all. go to floorplanner.net. awesome and very simple web based layout tool.
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post #12 of 22 Old 08-29-2012, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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ps, how is silver paint better for 3d?

thanks again, MMan.
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post #13 of 22 Old 08-29-2012, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmicronix View Post

ps, how is silver paint better for 3d?
thanks again, MMan.

It has the most Gain (1.4+) without any gross loss of viewing cone, and the preponderance of Silver Metallic content ramps up the type of contrast that 3D images look best with.

It does however involve using a ultra smooth substrate and applying the S-I-L-V-E-R over many very light Duster coats. (7-9 average)

Every coat applied is another opportunity for the Dust Bunny Fairy, or Bobby Bug, or your own Hairy droppings to take residence on the screen.

But in the end, S-I-L-V-E-R can do things no other DIY mix can accomplish. So in that respect it can be well worth the effort.


BTW,,,,"perfect" means exactly that...an almost glass-smooth, flat, pure flat white surface
..........and S-I-L-V-E-R is a simple mix of 90% Behr Faux Glaze and 10% Silver Metallic (Liqutex SM) thinned extensively with pure distilled water.

For some S-I-L-V-E-R is a scary "do". RS-MaxxMudd LL would work just fine in your case.,

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #14 of 22 Old 08-29-2012, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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ok, so here's the process as I understand it so far...w/ a few questions peppered in:


- Prep wall. level the surface w/ drywall mud, wet + dry sanding til baby-butt smooth.

- Prime. my wall is currently beige. can I use Kilz primer? can it be rolled? about how many coats?

- sand Primer. should I apply another prime coat after sanding?

- mix my Mud. I noticed you mentioned adding water until you get the "desired consistency" I also noticed others saying that the amount of water listed should be fine. can you clarify?

- Strain? is it always necessary to strain the mix? do you strain it just once? what do you use do strain?

- apply first, thin coat of maxxmud.

- sand, and reapply.

- sand and reapply ( was it 4 coats? how much dry time between coats?)



THanks once again!
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post #15 of 22 Old 08-29-2012, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmicronix View Post

ok, so here's the process as I understand it so far...w/ a few questions peppered in:
- Prep wall. level the surface w/ drywall mud, wet + dry sanding til baby-butt smooth.

Wet Sanding is for when you must remove conspicuous amounts of paint. It's not a "smoothing" technique. If a surface is rough with paint texture of new Drywall compund, sanding with a medium Grit Sanding sponge, wiping clean, then sanding with a Fine Grit Sponge is usually all that's needed before the first primer coat.
Quote:
- Prime. my wall is currently beige. can I use Kilz primer? can it be rolled? about how many coats?
- sand Primer. should I apply another prime coat after sanding?

Use Kilz of Zimmer 123. If you sanded wall is BB smooth, you can spray and no roller marks will ever trouble you. Or Roll...hope...and if hope doesn't float...start sanding again.
When spraying, usually three light Primer coats applied in the same manner you will spray on the RS-MM LL will effect enough cover and also provide you invaluable practice.
Quote:
- mix my Mud. I noticed you mentioned adding water until you get the "desired consistency" I also noticed others saying that the amount of water listed should be fine. can you clarify?
- Strain? is it always necessary to strain the mix? do you strain it just once? what do you use do strain?

Fail. If you had really read (ie; absorbed) any of the postings about mixing & spraying, you'd have noted that the amount of water varies depending on circumstances...those being that you use however much water is needed (...up to 30% to Paint volume) until the mix pours of the Squirrel Cage Mixer with the consistency of thin Tomato Soup. Then the mix is strained through a 1 Gallon Nylon Sock Filer. NO exceptions. This accomplishes two things. First and foremost it eliminates the possibility of having your Gun get clogged with any paint solids. Secondly, you make note of the rate of "Pass through" of the paint through the Filter. A normal, steady pour into the strainer should just barely back up a couple inches, then the combined weight and flow of the paint through the Nylon mesh should be steady and smooth.

If you use a separate gallon Can to strain your entire mix into after stirring, usually that is the only time it needs straining if your project is done in consecutive coats of 45 min-1hr intervals. left overnight...stir and strain again. The Sock Strainers rinse out easily (rinse backwards) and the "Squirrel" does as well (...rinse both immediately after stirring / straining. Don't wait. ...)

[
Quote:
- apply first, thin coat of maxxmud.

And what are those thin coats called? Hmmmmmmm? rolleyes.gif
Quote:
- sand, and reapply.
- sand and reapply ( was it 4 coats? how much dry time between coats?)
THanks once again!

Oh you bet! mad.gif

So OK....I'm a'jerkin' yer leg here a bit. Ya dun purdy gud fer a nubee.

But it did show that although there are not a lot of things to consider, the ones that are important MUST be considered...and followed to the proverbial "T" if I / We / all us all is a'gonna nail this project down for ya the furst time a'rownd

So go ahead...pose your next round of questions. biggrin.gif

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #16 of 22 Old 08-30-2012, 08:10 AM - Thread Starter
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- how much water do you start with? the same amount listed in the recepie? or is that just the amount to have on hand?

- can I use old panty hose as a strainer? not sure that I have a nylon sock laying around.

- did you mean that if I sand the heck out of the surface before priming...then I won't need to sand in between prime coats or even MaxxMudd coats? or do i still sand between all coats?
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post #17 of 22 Old 08-31-2012, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmicronix View Post

- how much water do you start with? the same amount listed in the recepie? or is that just the amount to have on hand?

You ALWAYS use the amount listed. Any extra added is to accommodate the ability of the paint to both strain easily and flow unrestricted through the Gun as well.
Quote:
- can I use old panty hose as a strainer? not sure that I have a nylon sock laying around.

No. Save the panty hose for Saturday night. Crazy thing though....you actually thinking that "Nylon Sock Strainer' refers to an actual Nylon Sock. biggrin.gif
Dude...go to Home Depot and ask for 1 Gallon Nylon Paint strainers. DO NOT try to use the "Paper Cone Type". The one you want stretches over the top of the 1 gallon Can.
(I'll post some "Straining Videos......again. )

Quote:
- did you mean that if I sand the heck out of the surface before priming...then I won't need to sand in between prime coats or even MaxxMudd coats? or do i still sand between all coats?

I sure didn't say that. I said that using a "DRY" large medium Grit Sanding sponge (...in the Drywall tools section @ HD...) first to get bumps and/or roller marks off, the switching to a Fine Grit Sponge to smooth would allow you to start priming.

It's always a good idea to lightly sand with a fine sponge after the 2nd primer Coat...and if necessary to achieve a really smooth surface before applying the Finish paint, do so again after the 3rd (...or final primer coat...)

The need to sand after any finish coat is predicated upon if you can see / feel any coarse texture. I advise though that if any sanding is done to a finish coat, it always be followed by at least 2 thin Dusters with 70% overlap.

jkmicronix, I can see your gonna be "high maintenance"...but 'dat's OK. I prefer questions to come before desperate pleas asking for help in salvaging a disaster.

Read this Thread. There are some Videos included.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1361269/110-sf-v2-1-3-0-floating-sintra-screen-w-backlighting-videos-too

......and a couple more about straining.

This first one shows the straining to be a bit slower than desired....but even so you can see the paint recede when the pouring stops.

th_Image181-1.jpg

This next one shows you how it should really flow though the strainer..........


th_AuStrainingFilm.jpg


And if there is any doubt at all about the usefulness and necessity of the Squirrel Cage Mixer http://www.amazon.com/Homax-69011-1-Gallon-PolyPro-Galvanized/dp/B000ELORFE

....let this following video squash any such nonsense.

th_Image179.jpg

Post note:
In the video above, the "Red" was a bit of color-correcting additive I added after the initial SF Mix was made. Ignore it....better still, don't even ever have to go there.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #18 of 22 Old 09-06-2012, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks, MMan. it appears that the wall I'm going to be painting on is VERY uneven. about 3/4 of an inch deeper in some areas!

is this too much to compensate w/ mud?

would I need to throw up more sheetrock?

I'm just forseeing about a week straight of re-mudding every single day! going through about 10 gallons of the stuff!


is that typical?
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post #19 of 22 Old 09-20-2012, 11:05 AM
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3/4 of inch off is difficult to make better with joint compound unless you are very good. probably easier to shim it out and put new dry wall over it. wood lathe strips wore really as shims for this.
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post #20 of 22 Old 09-21-2012, 07:06 AM
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Why not do a spandex screen?

No need to mess with paint mixes and spraying.
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post #21 of 22 Old 09-21-2012, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobs77vet View Post

3/4 of inch off is difficult to make better with joint compound unless you are very good. probably easier to shim it out and put new dry wall over it. wood lathe strips work really as shims for this.

bobs77vet has that right. Such larger areas with such depth must be built up slowly, with each "normal' layer being allowed to dry "completely". Otherwise, internal contraction will certainly cause cracks to appear.

Overlaying a easy-to-edge-blend material like 2 sheets of 10' Drywall would be best, in that you'd have just one center joint to worry about. Trim off the outside long tapered edges so you have a flat 72" of total "Top to Bottom" width, then edge the ends of the Drywall with12 pieces of 1/2" x 3" x 6" Plywood strips all butted end to end (...so you can keep a straighter edge...) that serve to level out the edges for the eventual installation of 3.25" Screen trim and also give you a level "run-out" while painting across those raised edges.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

Why not do a spandex screen?
No need to mess with paint mixes and spraying.

The 135" diagonal size requires that the Poster needs to have / maintain significant gain because of 3D intended viewing. RS-MM-LL will easily provide that.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #22 of 22 Old 10-05-2012, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

bobs77vet has that right. Such larger areas with such depth must be built up slowly, with each "normal' layer being allowed to dry "completely". Otherwise, internal contraction will certainly cause cracks to appear.
Overlaying a easy-to-edge-blend material like 2 sheets of 10' Drywall would be best, in that you'd have just one center joint to worry about. Trim off the outside long tapered edges so you have a flat 72" of total "Top to Bottom" width, then edge the ends of the Drywall with12 pieces of 1/2" x 3" x 6" Plywood strips all butted end to end (...so you can keep a straighter edge...) that serve to level out the edges for the eventual installation of 3.25" Screen trim and also give you a level "run-out" while painting across those raised edges.
The 135" diagonal size requires that the Poster needs to have / maintain significant gain because of 3D intended viewing. RS-MM-LL will easily provide that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

bobs77vet has that right. Such larger areas with such depth must be built up slowly, with each "normal' layer being allowed to dry "completely". Otherwise, internal contraction will certainly cause cracks to appear.
Overlaying a easy-to-edge-blend material like 2 sheets of 10' Drywall would be best, in that you'd have just one center joint to worry about. Trim off the outside long tapered edges so you have a flat 72" of total "Top to Bottom" width, then edge the ends of the Drywall with12 pieces of 1/2" x 3" x 6" Plywood strips all butted end to end (...so you can keep a straighter edge...) that serve to level out the edges for the eventual installation of 3.25" Screen trim and also give you a level "run-out" while painting across those raised edges.
The 135" diagonal size requires that the Poster needs to have / maintain significant gain because of 3D intended viewing. RS-MM-LL will easily provide that.

sorry for the lack of updates, yall...but this has been daunting. I've waffled back and forth on paint vs a pre-made screen three times since I originally posted this.

on one hand, the though of merely fairing the wall out with mud seemed overwhelming. then I went to price out 133" screens...which was equally overwhelming in terms of price!

I like the idea of shimming the wall, and throwing some new drywall on top. my father in law (aka my handyman) is back in town and I think I'll go (back to) this route.


PS, I was pointed in the direction of Da Lite HP screen. how does a well executed MaxxMud screen compare???

thanks again, all!
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