110" DIY Spandex AT Screen - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 752 Old 06-03-2013, 11:18 PM
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Hi Rick! Let me preface my comments with a few details:

I am using an Epson 8700UB projector mounted 13' from a 110" screen in a room with fair light control and a flat black ceiling. My seating distance is roughly 10' from the screen.

I sprayed SilverFire v.2.5 using the 3.0 colorant mix using a Wagner Control Spray DoubleDuty. I thinned the mix with the maximum amount of water recommended, but still had larger droplets in my spray pattern than I felt appropriate. I added 4oz of Floetrol to the batch, but saw little or no pattern improvement. I sprayed about 8 coats onto a preprimed artist canvas screen. The resulting finish was smooth, except for the visible weave of the canvas material.

The first thing I noticed upon viewing was a slight sheen from the surface, a noticeable amount of hot spotting, sparklies, and accentuated visibility of the weave in the canvas. I scuffed the surface lightly with a SchotchBrite pad, which knocked the sheen down a bit, but didn't help any of the other characteristics. Granted, a smoother surface such as Sintra or a well prepped wall would have eliminated the issue related to the weave. I can not rule out possible application issues contributing to the sheen, although this improved with the a light scuffing. The hot spotting and sparklies, however, seem to be inherent in the mix with all the mica and metallics. I've also noticed off-axis color shifting due to all of the mica, however, this was not visible from typical viewing angles.

Compared to my old Fashion Gray screen, the SF screen definitely had more gain, but also more hot spotting. When I draped both the matte white and the matte silver milliskin fabrics over the SilverFire screen, the silver was definitely too dark with lackluster whites and colors (note this was silver, not light silver, as I could not find light silver in stock when I ordered my spandex). At night, my blacks seemed comparable on the matte white vs. the SF 3.0, but the whites and colors had more pop.

I was fully expecting to see a soft image with less gain than the SF 3.0 screen, but I was pleasantly surprised. The pixel structure is still readily visible and the whites and colors seemed more vibrant. Adding the black layer 1" behind the white only improved the image and had no detectable gain reduction. I did not take before and after foot lambert measurements, as I deemed the single layer spandex without any backing to be unwatchable due to transmitted light and subsequent room reflections through the back of the screen. With the black standoff layer, however, this was completely eliminated!

Had I not elected to make the switch to an acoustically transparent screen, I would have tried a different paint formulation on a different substrate to try and eliminate the hot spotting, sparklies and visible weave.

Bottom line - In my system/configuration, with my equipment and DIY skills, the spandex screen offered a readily visible improvement over my SilverFire screen. Now I need to start building my SEOS speakers for L/C/R duty behind my screen...

Mike
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post #362 of 752 Old 06-04-2013, 11:15 AM
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mhutchins,

Hi,

I just want to interject a few things regarding your observations and comments.

First, the selection of Canvas as a substrate for a reflective mix such as SF was unfortunate. I realize various needs and lack of sources for better materials played a part in that selection, bust owing to the fact I could find no previous posted requests made by you for opinions on the use of Canvass, as well as asking for advice on spraying technique it became a case of your simply giving it a go on the assumption everything would / should work out. The fact you used Flotrol says to me that no one ever posted any advice your direction because if such had happened, Flotrol would have never been on the table for discussion let alone suggested. It's a additive intended for "rolling" applications....only. It's a "leveling" agent.

Also, I never saw, nor was there ever any post alluding to your reported issues. That in and of itself seems strange. Most would want, if not demand some explanation. But it's not unheard of......

Note: (...if we communicated via PM, then I'm even more sorry, but i seldom forget such exchanges...)

Would that you had posted a question about such, and had there been no other choice of substrate available, I would have told you to coat the Canvas first with at least 2 coats of a special Primer called "First Coat", a primer specifically designed to hide small degrees of texture. In the past, many resorted to the use of even thicker "Artist Gesso", something Painters use to eliminate the observable weave of even the finest weaved Canvas.

And complicating things, any such texture is made all the more apparent by the contrast enhancing aspects of a mix like Silver Fire. The combination of such, along with Gain, enhances the shadows that are rooted in the difference between high and low areas. That would also pertain to the degree of gain one observes from one point to another.

Tied to the above, the comment about "Hot Spotting" is not correct. Hot Spotting is a grossly misused reference. Such a situation describes an area of the screen...in the "center" of the screen, that varies in size as determined by both the amount of sheen on the surface, as well as the uniformity of the projected light as comes from the PJ itself.

What you describe would seem to be localized, excessive gain...usually caused sheen reacting to specific degrees of bright light. Still, that's not a desirable trait to have, so no excuses there. However, such sheen in a SF application is almost always tied to how the paint is / was applied. It doesn't take much excessive application of paint to set up a surface that dries to a more impenetrable coating, and if light does not slightly absorb into the paint and/or be dispersed at a wider angle , then everything must out of necessity reflect back. To that effect, the process of "Dusting" on coats, to prevent excessively thick build up of paint as well as a "too Smooth" surface has been the recommended application method.

You used a Wagner Double Duty, which comes with a very large plastic Needle (2.2 mm) which in itself makes applying any paint "thinly" an exercise in frustration. It was exactly the change over from the original Wagner Control Spray's 1.5 mm needle to the Double Duty's larger, more "Latex Friendly" needle that necessitated that Dusting be embraced. And....just as soon as the Graco 2900 came into being / popularity, with it's optional 1.5mm & 1.0 mm "metal" needles, you will not find a single posted instance of the Wagner sprayers being recommended. Shoot, I have a total of 5 different Wagner CS units, and they all sit idle these days...excepting that I often use the larger "remote" Wagner Turbine units (Plus & Max) to put more omph in my spray efforts.

Lastly, the very difference in how the SF paint is applied, combined with the degree of surface texture apparent, will also make the metallic content all the more observable. So it seems your screen turned out to be a "perfect storm" of most all of what one does not want to have present, or happen. For that, I am truly sorry, and I hope that it wasn't a lack of available advice that cost you the opportunity of having something that would have made your happier with your end results.

But....there is Spandex, and it's abilities and inherent potential is why I myself have been offering it up as a viable alternative to painting whenever adequate Lumen output is available.Certainly, there are no visible weave concerns using Milliskin, and of course no painting is required. But most important is the fact you have found something that suits both your needs and sensibilities. To that effect I am really glad for you.

My post was / is intended to simply elaborate on the actual "Whys" concerning your reported circumstances and primary complaints. If such complaints were universal, or simply often stated by other end users, this post would not be necessary. But the combination of your apparently not getting some initial advice on substrate material, as well as mitigating it's texture, and apparently some degree of advice on spraying technique has led to your need to express your dissatisfaction, and if such a report was left to stand on it's own proclamations alone, some might be inadvertently and unintentionally misled.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #363 of 752 Old 06-04-2013, 06:06 PM
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Hello Maurice,

I appreciate your thoughtful comments. My post was primarily an objective reply to Rick regarding my experience with a given substrate and paint mix. I researched for hundreds of hours on this forum before attempting my screen. As you say, unfortunately, a perfect storm of sorts was the result.

The canvas in its original, primed surface did not exhibit any distracting weave, so I was surprised to see such a strong result from the application of SilverFire. I looked at Gesso several times, but I didn't have a backing surface that would allow sanding the canvas after application. Canvas was also chosen for ease of transport compared to a large piece of Sintra which would not fit in our cars and would not survive being strapped to the roof. eek.gif

As to the Wagner, I bought that years ago when the Wagner Control Spray was all the rage and SilverFire was in its infancy and Tiddler was still rolling test boards. At that time, the Graco was rarely discussed and the Double Duty was not mentioned as a problem for screen application. Oh well, I can still use it to stain my deck!

Here are two images of my screen with the same camera settings and flash on auto (SilverFire on Left, Spandex on Right):



Regardless of the terminology, the spandex image, both on and off-axis, is much more uniform with regards to its reflected light energy.

More importantly, 2 layers of milliskin spandex are acoustically transparent and will let the full force of my (soon to be built) 12" SEOS/15" Celestion L-C-R speakers fill my room with their awesome sound stage. So, in the grand scheme of things, I'm pretty happy with this brief sojourn through SilverFire toward an AT Spandex screen. In the end, I will have a much better theater.*


* Of course I still need to hang my double drywall/greengoo ceiling with isoclips, build my subwoofers, put my projector in a hushbox/soffit in the adjoining bathroom, add baseboard heaters, run wires everywhere, improve the ventilation and build a few through-wall storage nooks for AV racks and sports gear to bring this tiny room to its full potential !! wink.gif

Best regards,
Mike
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post #364 of 752 Old 06-04-2013, 09:00 PM
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Mike,
Thanks for sharing your experience. Your spandex screen looks great! From my communication with Spandexworld, they are out of light silver and conveyed to me there was no more expected at that time. Anyone suggest another good source for light silver milliskin matte? As such, my plan is to proceed with white over black similar to your setup which will probably be just fine.

Rick
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post #365 of 752 Old 06-05-2013, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for sharing your Spandex screen Mike. Looks great and glad you like it.

Seems like there are going to be quite a few SEOS speakers behind Spandex screens these days. tongue.gif
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post #366 of 752 Old 06-06-2013, 06:41 AM
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Hey Rick,

Keep in mind that my black layer is separated by an inch from my white layer. My hope is that this gives me better whites without the light level loss that's been reported to occur when the two layers are adjacent. Unfortunately, I did not test this theory...I was watching hockey last night and really loving my screen performance!

Mike
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post #367 of 752 Old 06-07-2013, 08:54 PM
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Mike,
What size pieces of milliskin did you use?

Rick
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post #368 of 752 Old 06-10-2013, 07:57 PM
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I forget the width, but it seemed like it was 60", which worked fine for my 56" tall screen. I bought 3 yards for an 8' wide screen. I might have gotten away with 2.5 yards, but I wanted minimal stretch.

I'm really liking this screen!!



Mike biggrin.gif
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post #369 of 752 Old 07-29-2013, 03:23 AM
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Hi,

First post on the forum, sorry if my question has already been answered.

I am in the process of building a dedicated (light controlled with PJ) home theater in my new apartment.
I will also make an attempt on building a sound transparent spandex screen to hide the speakers.
So far I have bought the fabrics from Spandex World.

I would very much like to use Screen Tight to fit the spandex to the frame, but it seems impossible to find outside the U.S.!
Does anyone know if there is any company that will ship to Sweden in Europe?

/faceplant
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post #370 of 752 Old 07-30-2013, 07:19 AM
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I would make inquiries with local contractors that construct screened in rooms and see what they are using. Alternatively, you can easily create your own system so long as you use a wooden frame for your screen. Just place 2 shallow saw kerfs on the back side of the frame, stretch the fabric over the saw kerf and retain the fabric in the kerf by installing the rubber/nylon spline over the fabric forcing it and the spline into the kerf.
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post #371 of 752 Old 08-12-2013, 12:57 AM
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Thanks for the very good suggestions!

With the climate here in Sweden we do not have any tradition of screened in rooms or porches.
I actually find that rather odd since half of our country is mosquito territory. Not carriers of malaria or any other severe disease,
but still darn irritating.

Anyhow, I finally found a retailer on Amazon that would ship Screen Tight, Spline and Rollerknife outside the U.S.!
Now I am, impatiently, waiting for the delivery!

/faceplant
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post #372 of 752 Old 08-16-2013, 08:07 AM
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Smokarz (and other subscribers)

Great post here...thanks so much for sharing your experiences and your photos along the way. I am in middle of a renovation and I am seriously considering scrapping the Elite fixed frame 100-inch screen that I bought because I am having second thoughts about my screen size (I didn't go big enough) mad.gif The problem is that I have already installed my in-wall Polks around the 100-inch Elite. My throw is set at 12.5' (that is permanent) and I am considering either the Epson 5020 or the Panny 8000...both of which have reputations of being light cannons. I am thinking I want to be at 110" or 120"...hence the reason for considering an AT screen. I've got a few questions and I'm hoping that someone will be generous enough to throw in their two cents. These are the critical things I am curious about and it will ultimately help me make the decision if this is all worth the trouble...just to get 10 or 20 more inches. biggrin.gif It would be VERY cool to be able to hide these speakers behind a screen and I think it would add to the overall experience as if the sound was really coming from the screen (not to mention being able to raise up my CC closer to ear level).

A couple of quick questions:

1) I have Polk 265RTs (R/L) and a 255C-RT (CC) which are all set in the wall. These will obviously have to be relocated behind the AT screen if I decide to build one. If I were to go with a white over silver spandex combination for my screen, would I need to put anything else behind that so I do not see the speakers behind the screen?

2) My wife has picked a light beige color for our basement walls (this is not a dedicated HT theater so dark walls are OUT OF THE QUESTION). Would I be ok painting the walls behind the screen/frame that same color or would it influence the screen color somehow?

3) Does sound/vibration from speakers tend to rattle/vibrate the Spandex material being that they will only be an inch or so away behind the screen? Or will the tight stretch take that out of the equation?

4) Is it recommended that you paint the wood screen frame itself a certain color to avoid seeing it thru the two layers of spandex?

5) Is Spandexworld still the go-to place to purchase spandex online?

6) If Spandexworld, am I correct in saying that I need the Moleskin Matte (Silver) Product #6409 and the Moleskin Matte (White) Product #977?

7) What are some good moldings that people have used to go around the screen frame itself (that is the same thickness as the 1x4) ???

8)) Are these moldings usually fastened to the screen frame itself or to the wall after the screen frame has been leveled/mounted? I've already got 4 yards of Plush Triple Velvet from SY Fabrics leftover from before that I could easily wrap my own molding...

Here are a couple of pics of where things stand now...

Screen wall:



PJ housing:



Sorry to bombard with questions but I'm just throwing it all out there...thanks in advance...

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post #373 of 752 Old 08-16-2013, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnapolisSony View Post

Smokarz (and other subscribers)

Great post here...thanks so much for sharing your experiences and your photos along the way. I am in middle of a renovation and I am seriously considering scrapping the Elite fixed frame 100-inch screen that I bought because I am having second thoughts about my screen size (I didn't go big enough) mad.gif The problem is that I have already installed my in-wall Polks around the 100-inch Elite. My throw is set at 12.5' (that is permanent) and I am considering either the Epson 5020 or the Panny 8000...both of which have reputations of being light cannons. I am thinking I want to be at 110" or 120"...hence the reason for considering an AT screen. I've got a few questions and I'm hoping that someone will be generous enough to throw in their two cents. These are the critical things I am curious about and it will ultimately help me make the decision if this is all worth the trouble...just to get 10 or 20 more inches. biggrin.gif It would be VERY cool to be able to hide these speakers behind a screen and I think it would add to the overall experience as if the sound was really coming from the screen (not to mention being able to raise up my CC closer to ear level).

A couple of quick questions:

1) I have Polk 265RTs (R/L) and a 255C-RT (CC) which are all set in the wall. These will obviously have to be relocated behind the AT screen if I decide to build one. If I were to go with a white over silver spandex combination for my screen, would I need to put anything else behind that so I do not see the speakers behind the screen? Two layers of spandex should hide both the speakers and the frame.

2) My wife has picked a light beige color for our basement walls (this is not a dedicated HT theater so dark walls are OUT OF THE QUESTION). Would I be ok painting the walls behind the screen/frame that same color or would it influence the screen color somehow? Yes, although I would try to convince her an "accent wall" is the in thing in decorating and paint a flat gray or maroon. Alternatively you could use black drapes behind the screen and extending a couple of feet beyond the screen.

3) Does sound/vibration from speakers tend to rattle/vibrate the Spandex material being that they will only be an inch or so away behind the screen? Or will the tight stretch take that out of the equation?
The spandex shouldn't be a problem and as long as the frame isn't loose against the wall it should be OK too.
4) Is it recommended that you paint the wood screen frame itself a certain color to avoid seeing it thru the two layers of spandex? Is not necessary with two layers of spandex.

5) Is Spandexworld still the go-to place to purchase spandex online? Yes

6) If Spandexworld, am I correct in saying that I need the Moleskin Matte (Silver) Product #6409 and the Moleskin Matte (White) Product #977? The preferred are the Milliskin matte white (#795) and the Milliskin matte silver (#10921).

7) What are some good moldings that people have used to go around the screen frame itself (that is the same thickness as the 1x4) ??? Typically either "zero edge" or 1x3" velvet wrapped mdf molding.

8)) Are these moldings usually fastened to the screen frame itself or to the wall after the screen frame has been leveled/mounted? I've already got 4 yards of Plush Triple Velvet from SY Fabrics leftover from before that I could easily wrap my own molding... Attaching to the screen allows for LED lighting behind the trim in the future if you decide to go that route.

Here are a couple of pics of where things stand now...

Screen wall:



PJ housing:



Sorry to bombard with questions but I'm just throwing it all out there...thanks in advance...
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post #374 of 752 Old 08-16-2013, 01:28 PM
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The preferred Trim Molding is 1/2" x 3.25" Primed MDF Base. Wrap it with the Plush Triple Velvet. Attach to the Frame using 1.25" Bright Finish Nails
.
With a 2-layer Spandex screen, you do not have to worry about the off-white / beige wall behind.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #375 of 752 Old 08-17-2013, 06:09 AM
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ahajr143 & MM,

Thanks so much for your input. I've got a lot to think about. I am getting close to the painting, carpeting, etc. phase right now so I need to make a decision soon. If I am going to change things up, now is the ONLY time to do it.

I'm gonna sit on it for the weekend. biggrin.gif

P.S. MM, your velvet-wrapping thread is genius. What a great tutorial...

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post #376 of 752 Old 08-22-2013, 05:52 AM
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Going back to one of MM's threads...this is a look that I absolutely LOVE (fluted casing around the velvet). If I'm not mistaken, I think he actually put this one together himself.



Here's my question. I would love to put some sort of molding (preferably fluted casing) around my Elite Screen and paint it to match the trim throughout the room (baseboards, window casings, etc.). The problem that I have is that the velvet surround on the Elite Screen has a DEPTH of 1 3/4" (that's how much it sticks off the wall). So, I am trying to find a molding that will frame it out nicely and be deep enough ( approx 1 3/4") to stick out just as far as the velvet surround on my screen. I tried looking for extra-thick fluted casings but most standard sizes range from 3/4" to 1".

Does anyone have any ideas of what may be out there to use?

If I can find something that works, I'd also consider incorporating white LED lighting strips behind this to illuminate the screen.

Thanks in advance!

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post #377 of 752 Old 08-22-2013, 08:17 AM
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A simple solution would be to back your Casing with additional 3/4" Wood Strips.

And BTW....everything I post is DIY...and I do all of it myself.

It's less expensive that way...don'tcha know. wink.gif

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post #378 of 752 Old 08-28-2013, 10:23 PM
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How are people securing the spandex to the wood? Would a staple gun work for this fabric?
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post #379 of 752 Old 08-29-2013, 11:46 AM
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A staple gun works fine stapling the fabric to the back of the frame. If you think you might want to change things in the future you might want to consider the screen tight hardware available at Lowes or Home Depot.
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post #380 of 752 Old 08-29-2013, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahajr143 View Post

A staple gun works fine stapling the fabric to the back of the frame. If you think you might want to change things in the future you might want to consider the screen tight hardware available at Lowes or Home Depot.

Sounds good thanks. I guess I'm unaware of this screen tight hardware at Lowes or home depot. What is it and how does it work?

Also, I haven't been able to find much on these forums about how people mount their frame to the wall (will probably mount around a 100-110" screen). My hope is to be able to mount it and then be able to remove the screen off the wall if I need to. I also would like to keep it about 1-2 feet off the wall in order to place a center speaker behind the screen. How are people accomplishing this? I also thought about cutting a rectangular hole in the drywall and then place my center channel in that, but I'm not sure if that would be the best way to go.

Any thoughts from anyone?
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post #381 of 752 Old 08-29-2013, 02:30 PM
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There are in-wall speakers that are to be mounted in the wall. Some people simply mount the center channel above or below the screen. Some folks build a false wall to put the speakers behind and to hang the screen on. Most people with frames either screw them to the wall or mount with french cleats. If you search this forum you can find homemade as well as versions that are available from Home Depot or Lowes. The screen tight system is a metal frame that screws onto the back of your screen frame and has a channel that rubber spline can be rolled into to hold your screen fabric. It is the same type of system used to make screened in porches with window screen.
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post #382 of 752 Old 08-29-2013, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ahajr143 View Post

There are in-wall speakers that are to be mounted in the wall. Some people simply mount the center channel above or below the screen. Some folks build a false wall to put the speakers behind and to hang the screen on. Most people with frames either screw them to the wall or mount with french cleats. If you search this forum you can find homemade as well as versions that are available from Home Depot or Lowes. The screen tight system is a metal frame that screws onto the back of your screen frame and has a channel that rubber spline can be rolled into to hold your screen fabric. It is the same type of system used to make screened in porches with window screen.

Thanks for the response. I have already purchased my speakers so in-walls are a no go. My questions is this: Would it be possible to keep my current center channel (Bic 62CLRS) and get some shelf arms for the center to sit on, and simply extend the screen out away from the wall for enough clearance for the center channel? I'm wondering if I could find some hooks or a metal bracket that the top of the frame could sit on to help give enough clearance for my speaker. I was also toying with the idea of removing the drywall behind the center channel since the bass port is on the back of the speaker.

I know I could always mount my center channel below the screen, but that's at the expense of a smaller screen. What are people's thoughts? Would this work?
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post #383 of 752 Old 09-06-2013, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by butie120 View Post

Thanks for the response. I have already purchased my speakers so in-walls are a no go. My questions is this: Would it be possible to keep my current center channel (Bic 62CLRS) and get some shelf arms for the center to sit on, and simply extend the screen out away from the wall for enough clearance for the center channel? I'm wondering if I could find some hooks or a metal bracket that the top of the frame could sit on to help give enough clearance for my speaker. I was also toying with the idea of removing the drywall behind the center channel since the bass port is on the back of the speaker.

I know I could always mount my center channel below the screen, but that's at the expense of a smaller screen. What are people's thoughts? Would this work?

I'm about to head down the same path, but instead of hanging the screen out from the wall I'm just building a false wall that is about 2 feet forward from the real wall. The left, right, and center speakers will be behind the Spandex, and my two subs will be behind velvet which will be covering the frame on the base of the wall. I'll just build a small shelf in the false wall to hold the center channel in the middle of the screen.
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post #384 of 752 Old 09-07-2013, 11:02 AM
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Hey everyone ...

been following this thread closely for sometime because I want to make the same screen. I just finished building my frame and this thread was most helpful, so thanks to everyone for contributing. The only thing I have left to do prior to stretching the spandex is add the standoff edging.

I do have some questions about the spandex though ... I will be doing White on Silver Moleskin Matte;

1. Which side of the spandex is to be used. To me, one side seems softer, the other a bit more slick (silky?) ...
2. My spandex has some wrinkles, especially the white top layer. Any ideas on how to get rid of the wrinkles easily? Washing and drying the spandex? Ironing? If so, what temp? Steamer?
3. The spandex has some imperfections. I am a perfectionist but will live with this if others have experienced the same ...Should I be concerned? I don't think I can see the imperfection from more than 3 feet away ...

Thanks everyone ...
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post #385 of 752 Old 09-08-2013, 09:54 AM
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Hey Ben_g,

1. Try projecting a stationary and moving image on each side and see if you notice any difference. The slick side may have some sheen that could contribute to hot spotting, or not.
2. Most people say any wrinkles disappear soon after the material has been stretched for awhile up on your frame.
3. If you can't see the imperfections from 3', they should still be invisible at 10'+

I hope you bought milliskin and not moleskin spandex. The moleskin is not nearly as acoustically transparent as the milliskin spandex. Take a look at this thread for some measurements.

Mike
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post #386 of 752 Old 09-08-2013, 03:54 PM
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Thanks mike. Ill do some testing to see if I prefer one side or the other. I don't have my projector yet, so it'll be a couple of weeks before I can see.

I've been stretching the spandex some with my hands and can confirm that the wrinkled should disappear immediately or over time.

I did buy moleskin, not milliskin, but I don't need the acoustic transparency. My speakers will be placed to the left, right and below the screen. I have a 18' wall to work with ...

Thanks for the response ...
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post #387 of 752 Old 09-10-2013, 04:21 AM
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1. i made a 110" screen using moleskin white over silver. I spent a couple of weeks experimenting to determine whether to have white or silver on top and which side out. I finally concluded white over silver, matte side out. The shiny side was too sparkly.

2. wrinkles disappeared soon after stretched. I didn't stretch too much because if i stretched too much i got moire patterns.

3. can't see any imperfections but i did get some dirt on the fabric when hanging the screen and that was visible. removed with gentle scrubbing with brush and spray bottle of water and a little Dawn.
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post #388 of 752 Old 09-11-2013, 02:26 PM
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Not sure if these pics are helpful to anyone, but since I have them, I might as well post them.

My screen is a 110" (16:9) with White Moleskin Matte (977) over Silver Moleskin Matte (6409). Also shown are pieces of the white next to the silver moleskin hanging over the screen, simply as a reference to show how much (or little, depending on opinion) the white darkens with the silver layer underneath.





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post #389 of 752 Old 09-17-2013, 06:23 PM
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What exactly is that spandex material and where did you get it?

It looks beautiful.

EDIT: My question is directed at M.hutchins. Sorry I didn't make that clear.
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post #390 of 752 Old 09-21-2013, 08:43 PM
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It is milliskin spandex in a matte white with a 1" air gap and then a matte black milliskin spandex to block any light escape or impingement from other sources.

The milliskin spandex has been shown by Tuxedocivic to have the best acoustic properties of any of the spandex materials tested so far. The moleskin versions block the high frequencies by about 3dB as I recall. Two layers of milliskin are more acoustically transparent than even a single layer of moleskin.

Where did I get it? I don't recall except that they were a bit cheaper than SpandexWorld...
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