110" DIY Spandex AT Screen - Page 31 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #901 of 1055 Old 04-02-2015, 01:25 PM
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Here's a shot of my screen. The projector is a W1070. It's bright and makes the colors look beautiful.

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post #902 of 1055 Old 04-02-2015, 02:23 PM
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That looks awesome. What materials and color did you use? I'm getting the benq 1080st.

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post #903 of 1055 Old 04-02-2015, 06:08 PM
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I used white over silver milliskin. 1x4 poplar wood for the frame. I used screen tight to lock in the spandex.
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Television: Samsung 64' F8500
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post #904 of 1055 Old 04-07-2015, 10:41 AM
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I'm looking into setting up a HT setup in my livingroom, and would like the AT properties of the spandex screens. Screen size will be approx 120" using a BenQ W1070 or HT1075. Non-light controlled room, but there won't be too much ambient light. (all windows have blackout curtains but there is still a little light leakage). Would the recommendation be the light silver over white? From what I've gathered that seems like it would be the way for me to go, just want to make sure I didn't misunderstand.

Thanks
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post #905 of 1055 Old 04-08-2015, 10:00 AM
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Great thread. I'm going to combine the ideas here with the frame/spandex and make a sliding screen wall for my HT redo. In viewing position the screen will be centered in the room with ~20 inches open on each side. If you need more room to get by, slide it over for 40". If we have anything big to take upstairs, lift the screen off the frame. I'd like to have it hung via French cleats and make it slide if possible. If not, I'll incorporate wheels and a track. Or whatever else works!


Anyways, thanks for the ideas guys.


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post #906 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 01:31 AM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by rupedogg24 View Post
I used screen tight to lock in the spandex.
Maybe you can help... I'm looking to the best method to fix the spandex around the wooden frame. I see people using a staple gun directly on the spandex, but I do noit like this since it will not be simmetrical/uniform and if I get it wrong is difficult to undo. I was thinking about puttin a strip of wood to pinch the fabric on the back of the frame but again to fix it either I drill holes+screws or staple again.

You mention "screen tight" in your post. I assumed is a kind of plastic guide with pressure insert to "lock" the fabric. Is it something you can send a picture of ? where did you buy it ?
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post #907 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 04:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorG4 View Post
Maybe you can help... I'm looking to the best method to fix the spandex around the wooden frame. I see people using a staple gun directly on the spandex, but I do noit like this since it will not be simmetrical/uniform and if I get it wrong is difficult to undo. I was thinking about puttin a strip of wood to pinch the fabric on the back of the frame but again to fix it either I drill holes+screws or staple again.

You mention "screen tight" in your post. I assumed is a kind of plastic guide with pressure insert to "lock" the fabric. Is it something you can send a picture of ? where did you buy it ?
Screen door section of Lowe's or Home Depot.
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post #908 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoe4500 View Post
Screen door section of Lowe's or Home Depot.
Thanks,

I looked at all 23 pages of Home Depot Screen Door accessories but unfortunately could not find anything which I belive has the function to keep the fabric in place. Maybe you can tell me what name/term I should look for. (I expected to find a kind of plastic strip with 2 parts: a female with a groove and a male which will click-in by pressure to block the fabric in place, but , maybe thare are other solutions)
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post #909 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 05:13 AM
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Screen-Ti...SE18/100065822
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post #910 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoe4500 View Post
I'm looking into setting up a HT setup in my livingroom, and would like the AT properties of the spandex screens. Screen size will be approx 120" using a BenQ W1070 or HT1075. Non-light controlled room, but there won't be too much ambient light. (all windows have blackout curtains but there is still a little light leakage). Would the recommendation be the light silver over white? From what I've gathered that seems like it would be the way for me to go, just want to make sure I didn't misunderstand.

Thanks
At 120" and a 10' - 6" throw, you could use a very light silver grey over white, however you will still get some excellent improvement for the 1075's blacks using White over Silver...and by doing so be certain to retain as much of your original Fl potential as possible as well as keep your whites more pristine.

And yeah....go for the 1075 at minimum. Slightly brighter, slightly better Blacks, both can help make a bit more than a sutle difference.

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post #911 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 06:04 AM
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Yes!!!

Thanks. I was expecting something long , but this looks perfect.

I'll start a search where here in Europe I can buy such thing.
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post #912 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorG4 View Post
Maybe you can help... I'm looking to the best method to fix the spandex around the wooden frame. I see people using a staple gun directly on the spandex, but I do noit like this since it will not be simmetrical/uniform and if I get it wrong is difficult to undo. I was thinking about puttin a strip of wood to pinch the fabric on the back of the frame but again to fix it either I drill holes+screws or staple again.

You mention "screen tight" in your post. I assumed is a kind of plastic guide with pressure insert to "lock" the fabric. Is it something you can send a picture of ? where did you buy it ?
Stapling is not at all difficult (...unless you try to use too small a piece of Spandex on too large a frame...)

You do the stapling in the same manner a mechanic tightens down the bolts on a Cylinder head. here is a diagram. (..expand the numbers out to as many as are needed, keep to the given sequence, and simply keep the spacing between staples even. )


You can do it, and save quite a bit on the Screen Tite
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post #913 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Stapling is not at all difficult (...unless you try to use too small a piece of Spandex on too large a frame...)

You do the stapling in the same manner a mechanic tightens down the bolts on a Cylinder head. here is a diagram. (..expand the numbers out to as many as are needed, keep to the given sequence, and simply keep the spacing between staples even. )


You can do it, and save quite a bit on the Screen Tite
OK. I'm sure it can be stapled but being my first time ...

How do you judge the right tension ? Will it sag after a while if not too tight ?

Of course I could staple far away from the front so that I have margin in case I
need to relax it and restaple it and make sure the damage to the spandex are not visible...
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post #914 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 07:01 AM
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Yeah...a first time can be scary, but essentially almost everyone is a first-timer as far as DIY Screen making goes.

It's always best to staple on the outside of the Frame, using the edge of the frame as both a strain relief and a equalizer for the pull of the spandex. (BTW... the suggested 4-Way Spandex <18 to 20% Spandex> will not sag once adequately stretched...)

If your spandex comes in a Roll (...always ask for such if possible...) then pulling it about 8" is usually enough. Keep in mind that even using Screen tite you still have to do a decent job of stretching out the material evenly...and enough. There is no difference between the attachment methods in that regard.

I always lay out the material over the Frame, and make it so that I have at least 3 " extra past my point of stapling. Then going to the opposite side, I pull until the tension is very firm, but not crazy tight. Getting the initial top / bottom / sides attached evenly with the first staples gives you a continued reference as to where to add the additional staples and how much pull you should be using.

Follow the attachment guide and it's not going to be hard at all. But should you goof up a bit, Staples come out easy enough using a small Flat Head screwdriver as a pry-up device. It will almost never damage the material...certainly not like using a Staple puller or Knife / Scissor point can.

Oh yeah...only use 1/4" Staples (0.635 centimeter) as they are al that is needed, and they drive in flush almost every time even when using harder lumber such as Poplar. Any Staples that do not set flush...simply tap in gently with a small hammer.

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post #915 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 07:09 AM
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I loved working with screen tight. I know that if I really need to take the spandex off for whatever reason it would be a lot easier than using staples. Yes, the more expensive option, but the better option IMHO.

Television: Samsung 64' F8500
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post #916 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rupedogg24 View Post
I loved working with screen tight. I know that if I really need to take the spandex off for whatever reason it would be a lot easier than using staples. Yes, the more expensive option, but the better option IMHO.
Yes....some feel exactly the same. But there are two other considerations here.
  • Availability of the Screen Tite at the Poster's local
  • The extra cost of Shipping & VAT should it have to be exported
The latter possibly being the real Deal Breaker in this case, and then there would be the size of the packaging to consider.

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post #917 of 1055 Old 04-09-2015, 10:17 AM
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Yeah, I only had to drive 5 miles to HD to pick up the materials for the screen. It still cost significantly less than if I had bought an AT screen at 130" from a retailer. Plus I have young babies who are very handsy. Could easily gently wash the white spandex if needed.

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post #918 of 1055 Old 04-10-2015, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorG4 View Post
OK. I'm sure it can be stapled but being my first time ...

How do you judge the right tension ? Will it sag after a while if not too tight ?

Of course I could staple far away from the front so that I have margin in case I
need to relax it and restaple it and make sure the damage to the spandex are not visible...
I found spandex to be a VERY easy material to work with as compared to more traditional screen materials. It does not have to be drum tight at all. As long as it's not extremely loose, you shouldn't have to worry about it sagging or wrinkling.
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post #919 of 1055 Old 04-10-2015, 08:09 PM
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I'm building another spandex screen, I just received my milliskin matte spandex, I stated several times at spandex world to ship my order on two seperate rolls, but this time it came in a box,

Just verifying if this is no big deal with it not being shipped on a roll, have others been able to get any imperfections out of spandex not shipped on a roll, Spandex World would issue me an rma and send out another order on rolls, but it would be much quicker if I can use what I have,

I found another online supplier that has plenty of Light Silver Milliskin Matte Spandex, my order should be here later today, I will take some pics to compare it to the Silver from Spandex World,

Edit, Looks like the order I received today was more like Silver Spandex, not light at all, so not so good news...

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post #920 of 1055 Old 04-14-2015, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Yes....some feel exactly the same. But there are two other considerations here.
  • Availability of the Screen Tite at the Poster's local
  • The extra cost of Shipping & VAT should it have to be exported
The latter possibly being the real Deal Breaker in this case, and then there would be the size of the packaging to consider.
When using the Screen Tite, do you work the material the same way as stapling? Do you just insert the rubber a little bit at a time for each side, as if you were stapling? I saw it at HD the other day and I liked it.
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post #921 of 1055 Old 04-20-2015, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeypuck25 View Post
When using the Screen Tite, do you work the material the same way as stapling? Do you just insert the rubber a little bit at a time for each side, as if you were stapling? I saw it at HD the other day and I liked it.
You can do that if you want, but I didn't follow the staple method and my results were great. I pulled the sides and then the top and bottom. I took my time. It will help if you have someone help out but not necessary. Screen tight is easier to me than using staples.

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post #922 of 1055 Old 04-24-2015, 01:24 PM
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Whoooosh.. it took days, but I got through this thread - ALL 31 pgs., qyuite a h journey - and get this... I 'm not even in any position to be building a AT 130" dia. spandex screen.. lol

The information & tips were fantastic, and when the day comes - hopefully within the next 2 years I will have all the ammo/ info. needed cause of this thread.. thanks to all the contributors (small & large )

Judging by what I've read my plan would be to buy all three... white/silver/black pcs. of milliskin and get the screen tight set up so I can tinker till I find the best combo for my application.. a lot of folks have been sold on the white over silver/grey.. but I don't want to discount white over blacks benefits either... excited to join the club

So, till the day comes when I get my own spandex screen built (unless something better popz up by then - doubt it) - thanks to all...

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post #923 of 1055 Old 04-26-2015, 07:17 AM
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2 years!

That's sad.

Kinda sorta like reading about and lusting after a Aston Martin DB and then going out and starting up the 'ol Fliver to take you to work.

Know this...with a prudent bit of PJ choosing and some elbow grease, you could come into a 110" to 120" Spandex Screen & PJ for WAY below $800.00

While such might not be within the "Aston Martin" bracket of DIY'ism, it would still amount to being well within the Nissan 300zx category.

Trade up today!

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post #924 of 1055 Old 04-26-2015, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
2 years!

That's sad.

Kinda sorta like reading about and lusting after a Aston Martin DB and then going out and starting up the 'ol Fliver to take you to work.

Know this...with a prudent bit of PJ choosing and some elbow grease, you could come into a 110" to 120" Spandex Screen & PJ for WAY below $800.00

While such might not be within the "Aston Martin" bracket of DIY'ism, it would still amount to being well within the Nissan 300zx category.

Trade up today!
Yeah, I wish i had the real estate in my living room - but I don't.. a 50" Panny plasma is the best I can do in my living room ( my current basement is not an option).. so I am happy to live vicariously through ya'll DIY pioneers until my time comes... counting the days

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
2 years!

That's sad.

Kinda sorta like reading about and lusting after a Aston Martin DB and then going out and starting up the 'ol Fliver to take you to work.
Two years? Pffff... two years is nothing! I've been waiting for FIVE years, with just a 50" plasma to hold me over.
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post #926 of 1055 Old 04-27-2015, 09:06 AM
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Two years? Pffff... two years is nothing! I've been waiting for FIVE years, with just a 50" plasma to hold me over.
There are no "40 year old Virgins" in Front Projection.

Just the visually Frustrated.

...........so get a Room.
(...Ok, it seems your trying, so you get a pass...)
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post #927 of 1055 Old 04-30-2015, 07:57 AM
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I think I am about to take the plunge and will try to make a spandex AT screen. I have been looking into getting new front speakers, but have been stopped by the need to incorporate an AT screen into the mix, and the cost that would be associated with the more popular non DYI AT screen options. Basically, I could get a screen and then have to wait to get speakers, which wouldn't be fun.

I have about 115.5" between side walls where my current Da Lite 100" diagonal pull-down screen hangs. Would it be best to try to fill this whole space or should I go a little smaller and leave some room on the sides?

To tie into the above question, I am also concerned with how I would hang or mount the screen. I would like the easiest solution possible since I am not that handy and would like to keep costs down. Would there be a way to hang the screen on hooks from the ceiling like my current screen currently hangs, or could I somehow hook or mount it to the side walls? My goal would be to have 3 identical speakers on stands sitting behind the screen, so I would need some room where I could position the screen off the rear wall.

My basement ceiling is short in that it is a little less then 7' from floor to ceiling, so I am also wondering how I would get behind the screen once it was attached. There probably wouldn't be room to try to go underneath the screen to get behind if needed. Is this normal for some of these mounts, or would I be stuck due to my limited ceiling height and need some way to remove the screen easily if needed? Asking this in the event of speaker trouble or whatnot.

Sorry for all of the questions. Been reading up, but would really appreciate some thoughts on the topic from some of the DIY'ers who may have more experience. Willing to put in the work, just concerned that I don't know what I am doing and will not have a proper plan based on all of the factors involved. Thank you to anyone who can provide insight. :-)
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post #928 of 1055 Old 04-30-2015, 08:19 AM
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i currently have a 120" wide screen in a room with walls 130" apart from each other:


you COULD hang it from the ceiling but there are better ways (In my unfinished basement I used hooks but its much better now)



but you can do like most here do and build a "minimalist screen wall" I used 1x2" finger joined pine...and built a "goal post" two uprights and a cross peice in front of my speakers on stands (about 20" in front of them) and used a french cleat which allows ease of taking off and putting on the screen should you need to get behind it..

here is a pic of speakers that are behind the screen on stands

screen up on the goal posts (you can see the white pine...I have since painted them black)


this is the french cleat I used:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-Hangm...5316/202341629

hope that helps
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post #929 of 1055 Old 04-30-2015, 08:28 AM
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What can I use to clean the Milliskin fabric to remove airborn contaminants like dust? Something like a lint brush, normal duster, etc?

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post #930 of 1055 Old 04-30-2015, 09:19 AM
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Thanks, Brian. Nice setup! I guess I could build some kind of minimalist wall like you did. Did you attach the pieces of the "goal posts" to the ceiling studs for support?

Would anyone have some advice on the type of spandex materials I should use. My room is in my basement so it is light controlled and all of my walls & ceiling are a darker grey color. I have a JVC HD250 projector and the main seating area is about 10 -11 ft back. I would value the black levels over brightness, but am not an expert, so not sure what the best option would be for a good picture. It seems most are using two different materials, one on top of the other, is that correct?

Thanks again for any advice anyone could give!
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