110" DIY Spandex AT Screen - Page 31 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 04-02-2015, 02:23 PM
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That looks awesome. What materials and color did you use? I'm getting the benq 1080st.

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Old 04-02-2015, 06:08 PM
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I used white over silver milliskin. 1x4 poplar wood for the frame. I used screen tight to lock in the spandex.
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:41 AM
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I'm looking into setting up a HT setup in my livingroom, and would like the AT properties of the spandex screens. Screen size will be approx 120" using a BenQ W1070 or HT1075. Non-light controlled room, but there won't be too much ambient light. (all windows have blackout curtains but there is still a little light leakage). Would the recommendation be the light silver over white? From what I've gathered that seems like it would be the way for me to go, just want to make sure I didn't misunderstand.

Thanks
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:00 AM
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Great thread. I'm going to combine the ideas here with the frame/spandex and make a sliding screen wall for my HT redo. In viewing position the screen will be centered in the room with ~20 inches open on each side. If you need more room to get by, slide it over for 40". If we have anything big to take upstairs, lift the screen off the frame. I'd like to have it hung via French cleats and make it slide if possible. If not, I'll incorporate wheels and a track. Or whatever else works!


Anyways, thanks for the ideas guys.


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Old 04-09-2015, 01:31 AM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by rupedogg24 View Post
I used screen tight to lock in the spandex.
Maybe you can help... I'm looking to the best method to fix the spandex around the wooden frame. I see people using a staple gun directly on the spandex, but I do noit like this since it will not be simmetrical/uniform and if I get it wrong is difficult to undo. I was thinking about puttin a strip of wood to pinch the fabric on the back of the frame but again to fix it either I drill holes+screws or staple again.

You mention "screen tight" in your post. I assumed is a kind of plastic guide with pressure insert to "lock" the fabric. Is it something you can send a picture of ? where did you buy it ?
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Old 04-09-2015, 04:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorG4 View Post
Maybe you can help... I'm looking to the best method to fix the spandex around the wooden frame. I see people using a staple gun directly on the spandex, but I do noit like this since it will not be simmetrical/uniform and if I get it wrong is difficult to undo. I was thinking about puttin a strip of wood to pinch the fabric on the back of the frame but again to fix it either I drill holes+screws or staple again.

You mention "screen tight" in your post. I assumed is a kind of plastic guide with pressure insert to "lock" the fabric. Is it something you can send a picture of ? where did you buy it ?
Screen door section of Lowe's or Home Depot.
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Old 04-09-2015, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gijoe4500 View Post
Screen door section of Lowe's or Home Depot.
Thanks,

I looked at all 23 pages of Home Depot Screen Door accessories but unfortunately could not find anything which I belive has the function to keep the fabric in place. Maybe you can tell me what name/term I should look for. (I expected to find a kind of plastic strip with 2 parts: a female with a groove and a male which will click-in by pressure to block the fabric in place, but , maybe thare are other solutions)
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Old 04-09-2015, 05:13 AM
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Screen-Ti...SE18/100065822
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Old 04-09-2015, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoe4500 View Post
I'm looking into setting up a HT setup in my livingroom, and would like the AT properties of the spandex screens. Screen size will be approx 120" using a BenQ W1070 or HT1075. Non-light controlled room, but there won't be too much ambient light. (all windows have blackout curtains but there is still a little light leakage). Would the recommendation be the light silver over white? From what I've gathered that seems like it would be the way for me to go, just want to make sure I didn't misunderstand.

Thanks
At 120" and a 10' - 6" throw, you could use a very light silver grey over white, however you will still get some excellent improvement for the 1075's blacks using White over Silver...and by doing so be certain to retain as much of your original Fl potential as possible as well as keep your whites more pristine.

And yeah....go for the 1075 at minimum. Slightly brighter, slightly better Blacks, both can help make a bit more than a sutle difference.

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Old 04-09-2015, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
Yes!!!

Thanks. I was expecting something long , but this looks perfect.

I'll start a search where here in Europe I can buy such thing.
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Old 04-09-2015, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorG4 View Post
Maybe you can help... I'm looking to the best method to fix the spandex around the wooden frame. I see people using a staple gun directly on the spandex, but I do noit like this since it will not be simmetrical/uniform and if I get it wrong is difficult to undo. I was thinking about puttin a strip of wood to pinch the fabric on the back of the frame but again to fix it either I drill holes+screws or staple again.

You mention "screen tight" in your post. I assumed is a kind of plastic guide with pressure insert to "lock" the fabric. Is it something you can send a picture of ? where did you buy it ?
Stapling is not at all difficult (...unless you try to use too small a piece of Spandex on too large a frame...)

You do the stapling in the same manner a mechanic tightens down the bolts on a Cylinder head. here is a diagram. (..expand the numbers out to as many as are needed, keep to the given sequence, and simply keep the spacing between staples even. )


You can do it, and save quite a bit on the Screen Tite
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Old 04-09-2015, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Stapling is not at all difficult (...unless you try to use too small a piece of Spandex on too large a frame...)

You do the stapling in the same manner a mechanic tightens down the bolts on a Cylinder head. here is a diagram. (..expand the numbers out to as many as are needed, keep to the given sequence, and simply keep the spacing between staples even. )


You can do it, and save quite a bit on the Screen Tite
OK. I'm sure it can be stapled but being my first time ...

How do you judge the right tension ? Will it sag after a while if not too tight ?

Of course I could staple far away from the front so that I have margin in case I
need to relax it and restaple it and make sure the damage to the spandex are not visible...
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Old 04-09-2015, 07:01 AM
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Yeah...a first time can be scary, but essentially almost everyone is a first-timer as far as DIY Screen making goes.

It's always best to staple on the outside of the Frame, using the edge of the frame as both a strain relief and a equalizer for the pull of the spandex. (BTW... the suggested 4-Way Spandex <18 to 20% Spandex> will not sag once adequately stretched...)

If your spandex comes in a Roll (...always ask for such if possible...) then pulling it about 8" is usually enough. Keep in mind that even using Screen tite you still have to do a decent job of stretching out the material evenly...and enough. There is no difference between the attachment methods in that regard.

I always lay out the material over the Frame, and make it so that I have at least 3 " extra past my point of stapling. Then going to the opposite side, I pull until the tension is very firm, but not crazy tight. Getting the initial top / bottom / sides attached evenly with the first staples gives you a continued reference as to where to add the additional staples and how much pull you should be using.

Follow the attachment guide and it's not going to be hard at all. But should you goof up a bit, Staples come out easy enough using a small Flat Head screwdriver as a pry-up device. It will almost never damage the material...certainly not like using a Staple puller or Knife / Scissor point can.

Oh yeah...only use 1/4" Staples (0.635 centimeter) as they are al that is needed, and they drive in flush almost every time even when using harder lumber such as Poplar. Any Staples that do not set flush...simply tap in gently with a small hammer.

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Old 04-09-2015, 07:09 AM
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I loved working with screen tight. I know that if I really need to take the spandex off for whatever reason it would be a lot easier than using staples. Yes, the more expensive option, but the better option IMHO.

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Old 04-09-2015, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rupedogg24 View Post
I loved working with screen tight. I know that if I really need to take the spandex off for whatever reason it would be a lot easier than using staples. Yes, the more expensive option, but the better option IMHO.
Yes....some feel exactly the same. But there are two other considerations here.
  • Availability of the Screen Tite at the Poster's local
  • The extra cost of Shipping & VAT should it have to be exported
The latter possibly being the real Deal Breaker in this case, and then there would be the size of the packaging to consider.

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Old 04-09-2015, 10:17 AM
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Yeah, I only had to drive 5 miles to HD to pick up the materials for the screen. It still cost significantly less than if I had bought an AT screen at 130" from a retailer. Plus I have young babies who are very handsy. Could easily gently wash the white spandex if needed.

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Old 04-10-2015, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorG4 View Post
OK. I'm sure it can be stapled but being my first time ...

How do you judge the right tension ? Will it sag after a while if not too tight ?

Of course I could staple far away from the front so that I have margin in case I
need to relax it and restaple it and make sure the damage to the spandex are not visible...
I found spandex to be a VERY easy material to work with as compared to more traditional screen materials. It does not have to be drum tight at all. As long as it's not extremely loose, you shouldn't have to worry about it sagging or wrinkling.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:09 PM
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I'm building another spandex screen, I just received my milliskin matte spandex, I stated several times at spandex world to ship my order on two seperate rolls, but this time it came in a box,

Just verifying if this is no big deal with it not being shipped on a roll, have others been able to get any imperfections out of spandex not shipped on a roll, Spandex World would issue me an rma and send out another order on rolls, but it would be much quicker if I can use what I have,

I found another online supplier that has plenty of Light Silver Milliskin Matte Spandex, my order should be here later today, I will take some pics to compare it to the Silver from Spandex World,

Edit, Looks like the order I received today was more like Silver Spandex, not light at all, so not so good news...

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Old 04-14-2015, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Yes....some feel exactly the same. But there are two other considerations here.
  • Availability of the Screen Tite at the Poster's local
  • The extra cost of Shipping & VAT should it have to be exported
The latter possibly being the real Deal Breaker in this case, and then there would be the size of the packaging to consider.
When using the Screen Tite, do you work the material the same way as stapling? Do you just insert the rubber a little bit at a time for each side, as if you were stapling? I saw it at HD the other day and I liked it.
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeypuck25 View Post
When using the Screen Tite, do you work the material the same way as stapling? Do you just insert the rubber a little bit at a time for each side, as if you were stapling? I saw it at HD the other day and I liked it.
You can do that if you want, but I didn't follow the staple method and my results were great. I pulled the sides and then the top and bottom. I took my time. It will help if you have someone help out but not necessary. Screen tight is easier to me than using staples.

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Old Today, 01:24 PM
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Whoooosh.. it took days, but I got through this thread - ALL 31 pgs., qyuite a h journey - and get this... I 'm not even in any position to be building a AT 130" dia. spandex screen.. lol

The information & tips were fantastic, and when the day comes - hopefully within the next 2 years I will have all the ammo/ info. needed cause of this thread.. thanks to all the contributors (small & large )

Judging by what I've read my plan would be to buy all three... white/silver/black pcs. of milliskin and get the screen tight set up so I can tinker till I find the best combo for my application.. a lot of folks have been sold on the white over silver/grey.. but I don't want to discount white over blacks benefits either... excited to join the club

So, till the day comes when I get my own spandex screen built (unless something better popz up by then - doubt it) - thanks to all...

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