110" DIY Spandex AT Screen - Page 33 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #961 of 980 Unread 05-06-2015, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
If you don't have a Table Saw or a Skil Saw Rip Guide, you can make a Guide Jig out of a 5' 1x2 and use the skid pad of the Saw against it to rip a straight line.

Us Old Timers can simply use a Fore Finger and Thumb against the edge of the wood to hold a Rip on a Pencil Line, using the Line as a guide.

The latter is best done ripping 2.5" wide lengths off a 1 x 8.
2 Rips and you have 3- 2.5" pieces

........and all your Fingers, hopefully.
Ha ha, thanks for the tips! I have a circular saw so I will try to use the guide and do my best. Probably just need more practice, but we'll see what happens. Have the outer frame cut and put the top and ends together last night using the Kreg, it really is a great tool. Just ordered some spandex as well, so slowly starting to get there.
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post #962 of 980 Unread 05-06-2015, 09:39 AM
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Ha ha, thanks for the tips! I have a circular saw so I will try to use the guide and do my best. Probably just need more practice, but we'll see what happens. Have the outer frame cut and put the top and ends together last night using the Kreg, it really is a great tool. Just ordered some spandex as well, so slowly starting to get there.
Here is a good tip.

Although they say no glue is required, after I have drilled out my Pocket Screw holes, I have taken to gluing a corner together with Wood Glue (after positioning it exactly) and letting it dry, then screwing the pieces together. Doing it in such a manner avoids the possibility of the screws shifting the pieces slightly.

Afterward, between the Glue and the Pocket Screw, you have a Uber-strong joint going for you.
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post #963 of 980 Unread 05-06-2015, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Yep....sure does. Looks like you had to do a little bit of Stapling on those corners too.

And using Black as the initial Spandex surface certainly prevents any bleed-through of frame color.

ahajr143,

You might still very well need a dual layer over the Mylar to prevent excessive pin-point Hot Spotting by the lamp's reflection.

Any such 1st surface Reflector that is not part of a true "Light Fusion" design (1/8" Gap between Screen and Reflector) requires a very specific amount of dampening. Too little and it's Hot Spot City...too much and the Reflector becomes Moot.

I'm thinking a Light Silver Grey over White would work best.
Right now I have white milliskin matte over grey moleskin matte. I was thinking of using both of those over the mylar to see if I could get a little brighter picture in Theater mode 1. Since you mention 1/8 inch gap normally from the clear acrylic sheet, would a 1/8" thick trim around the frame do the same thing without the need for any clear sheeting or is it better to just use a 1st surface mirror and go with two layers of spandex?
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post #964 of 980 Unread 05-06-2015, 04:28 PM
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Well...the "Gap" in Light Fusion worked as it did because the space between the Paint and Mirrored surface became pretty evely innfused with attenuated reflected light. Much like a Neon Lamp. Now that same "Gap" might be beneficial as far as reducing the chance of any pin point of light showing through the spandex. One must bear in mind that with a painted surface, there was both attenuation and diffusion going on as the projected light passed through the paint.

With Spandex, all you really have is the attenuation, and it might be that with a 1st surface "Mirror-like" reflector directly against the rear layer, you just might still get that "pin point".

Then again....maybe not.

That uncertainty is why I choose to use White in a Spandex underlayment, when retaining as much gain as possible is important. However I urge you to give it a try with the Mylar. With and Without a Gap.

Might just be "The next Big Thing".

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post #965 of 980 Unread 05-10-2015, 10:39 PM
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In the third build, are the middle braces flat?

Last edited by ps24eva; 05-10-2015 at 10:57 PM.
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post #966 of 980 Unread 05-11-2015, 01:40 AM
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In the third build, are the middle braces flat?
Yes, both because they are 1.5" thick, and are proportionately shorter being part of a 2.39:1 build, and because using Spandex requires less tension.

Had they been for a 16:9 frame, or if I was stretching a more rigid, non stretchable material like Black Out Cloth' I would have ripped them down to 3" and used them "on edge" for more structural rigidity.

The truth being, that was the Lumber supplied to work with when I arrived on-site. Pretty well hand picked so it was straight...no preexisting bends or twists. So because I was using 2 x 4s on edge for the exterior Frame to accommodate the Center Channel Speaker Cabinet's depth' I saw no need to go to any great lengths to reduce the depth of the Braces to place them "on-edge".

Ya gotta be able to ebb-n-flow with the tide.

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post #967 of 980 Unread 05-11-2015, 09:37 AM
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MississippiMan,

Can I use 1x3 poplar 'on edge' for the outside?

And 2x4 poplar 'flat' for the middle braces?
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post #968 of 980 Unread 05-11-2015, 11:28 AM
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MississippiMan,

Can I use 1x3 poplar 'on edge' for the outside?

And 2x4 poplar 'flat' for the middle braces?
You could......although that will lend both extra expense and weight. Poplar is a denser, harder wood than Pine, so a 2 x 4 of Poplar stands to be at least 50% heavier if not more.

Here's a thought..............;
Considering that the middle bracing won't be all the much "length-wise" I would think that carefully selected Kiln Dried top grade clear Pine 2sx 4s would serve well for such bracing. Just carefully pick from the 2 x 4 x 8 pile of No#1 Quality Studs.

Shucks...I might even do likewise myself next build. The thicker supports can accommodate a horizontal bridged hand built French Cleat all the easier.

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post #969 of 980 Unread 05-11-2015, 05:03 PM
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How about:

1x3 kiln-dried poplar 'on edge' for the outside

2x4 kiln-dried pine 'flat' for the middle braces

Basically a mix of poplar and pine.
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post #970 of 980 Unread 05-11-2015, 07:15 PM
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How about:

1x3 kiln-dried poplar 'on edge' for the outside

2x4 kiln-dried pine 'flat' for the middle braces

Basically a mix of poplar and pine.
I thought that was what I posted?

Here's a thought..............;
Considering that the middle bracing won't be all the much "length-wise" I would think that carefully selected Kiln Dried top grade clear Pine 2sx 4s would serve well for such bracing. Just carefully pick from the 2 x 4 x 8 pile of No#1 Quality Studs.
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post #971 of 980 Unread 05-11-2015, 07:19 PM
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How do you attach your milliskin to the frame without spline?

Last edited by ps24eva; 05-11-2015 at 07:24 PM.
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post #972 of 980 Unread 05-11-2015, 07:26 PM
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How do you attach your milliskin to the frame without spline?
Staples.

T50 1/4"

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post #973 of 980 Unread 05-12-2015, 03:10 PM
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Question: when people say white over silver or white over white, does that mean ones have to buy two fabric and install on top of each other?
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Question: when people say white over silver or white over white, does that mean ones have to buy two fabric and install on top of each other?
Yes
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post #975 of 980 Unread 05-12-2015, 03:35 PM
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Thanks Brian.
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post #976 of 980 Unread 05-13-2015, 08:49 AM
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Question: when people say white over silver or white over white, does that mean ones have to buy two fabric and install on top of each other?
That's almost scary.

And perhaps a little revealing as obviously no real in depth reading of any past posts has been done.

Well...perhaps not completely so obvious, but it sure seems like it might be the case.

I'm only chiming in here on this to strongly encourage you to make the effort to do some comprehensive reading on various aspects of the build process, and the related reasons people choose the size screens they do as well as what projectors. Also why they chose what they do and where/why they locate the PJ where it goes.

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post #977 of 980 Unread Yesterday, 08:09 AM
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Finally got my screen up and set last night. Learned alot from all of the great advice I received here and feel proud that I have it up. Coming from a High Power screen, I'll have to adjust a bit, but very happy overall, especially since I was able to get new speakers to put behind the screen. I've attached a couple of images, hope they show up correctly.

I've never been able to place my projector directly in the center of the screen due to ceiling mounting limitations, so I now have to fix a bit of issue with the image on the new screen not being square. I did the best I could in really trying to make everything even and level with my false wall, but I'm sure it is not perfect. Basement walls/ceiling are also not perfectly square, which makes it difficult for someone like me who isn't as handy. Hopefully I can figure something out and not get consumed with it being exactly perfect (that will be hard for me).

Thanks again to everyone who helped and gave advice, it was very much appreciated!

Also wanted to mention that my total spent on all tools/materials came out to $354.45. 100 of that was spent on the kreg jig, so to me that is really awesome.
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post #978 of 980 Unread Yesterday, 05:46 PM
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Although a bright pattern on carpet directly below a screen is usually a No-No, I'm jammin' on the Flames effect radiating from the bottom of the screen.

Image quality looks great!

Try using some long 2x3 Blocks coming off the rear Wall behind specific areas of the Screen to push it out level

The JVC has H&V Lens shift, so if unless the placement of the PJ is almost outside the limits of the H&V parameters, then the only real issue you might have is the Mount itself. A good Mount hase total adjustment as far as Pitch / Yaw, and Camber. What are you using? Your so close, we don't want to leave you to your own devices on this point when we can gladly insert ourselves. (re: stick our noses in )

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post #979 of 980 Unread Today, 07:59 AM
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If you're sure your screen is square enough (make sure opposite sides, then diagonally measure the same).
You might consider dangling a string or something along the screen's sides to make sure it's level with the world (if the wall and ceiling aren't terribly straight..might as well use gravity).
Using your projector's lens-shift, lower the image a bit below the screen's top and adjust the projector mount "barrel roll style" until the picture line and screen top are parallel.
Zoom the image in smaller than the screen, and see how the bottom edge and screen's bottom line up.
Aim the projector mount (like turning someone's head left/right) to make the bottom of the image and the screen parallel. You turn the projector gradually toward the higher side (assuming you've zoomed smaller than the screen).
Double check that the head-turning didn't mess with your barrel-roll...if your top line isn't quite straight, you'll have to roll it straight and touch-up turn to get the bottom again.

Use lens-shift left/right to center your image.
Adjust the mount (like nodding someone's head) to make the sides parallel with the screen-sides. If the top is pinched inwar like a pyramid, tilt it up; if the bottom is pinched inward like a funnel, tilt it down.

Double check the top (barrel roll), then bottom (head turn, then sides (head nod).

Then center the image up/down and left/right using your lens-shift, and zoom out till you almost perfectly fill the screen..and double check again if you want.

The hanging strings at the screen's two sides should let you make sure the screen is both hanging straight as well as not doing a weird uneven curl.

Hopefully that's somewhat make-sense-ing...

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #980 of 980 Unread Today, 02:06 PM
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I have wait until spandex world Re stocks sliver/gray.
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