110" DIY Spandex AT Screen - Page 33 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #961 of 964 Old Today, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
If you don't have a Table Saw or a Skil Saw Rip Guide, you can make a Guide Jig out of a 5' 1x2 and use the skid pad of the Saw against it to rip a straight line.

Us Old Timers can simply use a Fore Finger and Thumb against the edge of the wood to hold a Rip on a Pencil Line, using the Line as a guide.

The latter is best done ripping 2.5" wide lengths off a 1 x 8.
2 Rips and you have 3- 2.5" pieces

........and all your Fingers, hopefully.
Ha ha, thanks for the tips! I have a circular saw so I will try to use the guide and do my best. Probably just need more practice, but we'll see what happens. Have the outer frame cut and put the top and ends together last night using the Kreg, it really is a great tool. Just ordered some spandex as well, so slowly starting to get there.
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post #962 of 964 Old Today, 09:39 AM
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Ha ha, thanks for the tips! I have a circular saw so I will try to use the guide and do my best. Probably just need more practice, but we'll see what happens. Have the outer frame cut and put the top and ends together last night using the Kreg, it really is a great tool. Just ordered some spandex as well, so slowly starting to get there.
Here is a good tip.

Although they say no glue is required, after I have drilled out my Pocket Screw holes, I have taken to gluing a corner together with Wood Glue (after positioning it exactly) and letting it dry, then screwing the pieces together. Doing it in such a manner avoids the possibility of the screws shifting the pieces slightly.

Afterward, between the Glue and the Pocket Screw, you have a Uber-strong joint going for you.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #963 of 964 Unread Today, 02:17 PM
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Yep....sure does. Looks like you had to do a little bit of Stapling on those corners too.

And using Black as the initial Spandex surface certainly prevents any bleed-through of frame color.

ahajr143,

You might still very well need a dual layer over the Mylar to prevent excessive pin-point Hot Spotting by the lamp's reflection.

Any such 1st surface Reflector that is not part of a true "Light Fusion" design (1/8" Gap between Screen and Reflector) requires a very specific amount of dampening. Too little and it's Hot Spot City...too much and the Reflector becomes Moot.

I'm thinking a Light Silver Grey over White would work best.
Right now I have white milliskin matte over grey moleskin matte. I was thinking of using both of those over the mylar to see if I could get a little brighter picture in Theater mode 1. Since you mention 1/8 inch gap normally from the clear acrylic sheet, would a 1/8" thick trim around the frame do the same thing without the need for any clear sheeting or is it better to just use a 1st surface mirror and go with two layers of spandex?
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post #964 of 964 Unread Today, 04:28 PM
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Well...the "Gap" in Light Fusion worked as it did because the space between the Paint and Mirrored surface became pretty evely innfused with attenuated reflected light. Much like a Neon Lamp. Now that same "Gap" might be beneficial as far as reducing the chance of any pin point of light showing through the spandex. One must bear in mind that with a painted surface, there was both attenuation and diffusion going on as the projected light passed through the paint.

With Spandex, all you really have is the attenuation, and it might be that with a 1st surface "Mirror-like" reflector directly against the rear layer, you just might still get that "pin point".

Then again....maybe not.

That uncertainty is why I choose to use White in a Spandex underlayment, when retaining as much gain as possible is important. However I urge you to give it a try with the Mylar. With and Without a Gap.

Might just be "The next Big Thing".

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