110" DIY Spandex AT Screen - Page 35 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1021 of 1042 Old 07-11-2015, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Overstretching spandex makes it more likely to see the weave, and therefor a moire pattern when projecting onto it. It also lowers the gain a bit since you are making it more visually transparent.

You can safely get a 70" tall screen from the 60" wide milliskin by stapling onto the edges of the frame rather than wrapping onto the back before stapling. Beyond that the weave starts to show.
I'm not sure why some seem to want to insist on trying to wrap the Spandex all the way around to the back. It's never been suggested done by me or really anyone else who was advising, but I've seen it done on "smaller Screens", probably just because it seems "neater", and also for those who want a Zero Edge look.. But the reality is that you only need the first corner edge as a Strain Relief for the Staples, and a effective Zero Edge can be had by using painted or wrapped 1/4" Lattice Board to cover the Staples and trimmed edges of the Spandex on the sides.

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post #1022 of 1042 Old 07-11-2015, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Movie78 View Post
Sorry i couldn't achieve the SilverFire NC goal, but this is going to be the one, since i decided to go with in wall speakers now.

Will these 2 spandex combination come close to silverFire NC or Better?
As far as smoothness of surface........absolutely. In all other aspects....not a chance.

Spandex at it's best is simply a excellent AT screen and a very basic, neutral, 0.9 gain surface

It's a great choice for those who can use it...or who cannot paint, but save for it's AT performance and ultra smooth texture, it is in no way a High Performance screen.

Do Not count on it to do what it cannot do.

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post #1023 of 1042 Old 07-11-2015, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Overstretching spandex makes it more likely to see the weave, and therefor a moire pattern when projecting onto it. It also lowers the gain a bit since you are making it more visually transparent.

You can safely get a 70" tall screen from the 60" wide milliskin by stapling onto the edges of the frame rather than wrapping onto the back before stapling. Beyond that the weave starts to show. So you could build a non-specific AR screen that is 12' wide but only 70" tall and use the projector's zoom to fill out the 12' width when watching cinemascope films. The bottom "black bar" would spill off the bottom. You'd end up with a 142" for 16:9 content and the 156" you are used to for 2.4:1 content.
142" is probably closer to what I am actually using now anyways.

I've got quite a bit of time before I have to decide - my theater is going nowhere fast right now due to financial issues.
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post #1024 of 1042 Old 07-11-2015, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
142" is probably closer to what I am actually using now anyways.

I've got quite a bit of time before I have to decide - my theater is going nowhere fast right now due to financial issues.
If 16:9 size absolutely matters.....and a 143" C.H.I. 2.39:1 screen isn't possible, although I have not suggested it before, a potentially viable alternative would be using Milliskin Silver (60") tightly stretched as the underlayment, and the 120" Spandex http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/10869 .....moderately stretched (vertically) Top and Bottom only. (....seeing that it is only 2-way Stretch capable....)

Result? Very acceptable At properties.....High Contrast backing.....ultra smooth White surface.

Hopefully.......
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post #1025 of 1042 Old 07-14-2015, 10:45 AM
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I recently did a 110" with silver over white. I'm using the Epson 2030, and I just thought the colors looked bolder projected onto silver than I thought they did onto white.

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post #1026 of 1042 Old 07-14-2015, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by pittsoccer33 View Post
I recently did a 110" with silver over white. I'm using the Epson 2030, and I just thought the colors looked bolder projected onto silver than I thought they did onto white.

Can you post some pix?

So you did white first then silver on top?
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post #1027 of 1042 Old 07-14-2015, 11:13 AM
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I can take some later.

I made my frame out of 1x4s, and just draped each fabric over it before stapling it.

Maybe some of it is my bias from owning plasma televisions, but the darker screen seemed to give all the colors a more vibrant look. Its such a bright projector that the peak whiteness is still very bright.

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post #1028 of 1042 Old 07-14-2015, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pittsoccer33 View Post
I can take some later.

I made my frame out of 1x4s, and just draped each fabric over it before stapling it.

Maybe some of it is my bias from owning plasma televisions, but the darker screen seemed to give all the colors a more vibrant look. Its such a bright projector that the peak whiteness is still very bright.
So do it Silver over White,gives you the Plasma feel(That is what i what,big plasma fun)

I guess i will try both option before i decide what to go with.

PS:What about Silver over Black?
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post #1029 of 1042 Old 07-14-2015, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Movie78 View Post
So do it Silver over White,gives you the Plasma feel(That is what i what,big plasma fun)

I guess i will try both option before i decide what to go with.

PS:What about Silver over Black?
Silver over White requires more Lumen output.....Silver over Black even more so.

The image will be attenuated, so I do not agree that the image will have a "Plasma-like" glow. What pittsoccer33 said what that the Silver made the colors have a deeper hue, more of a saturated look...and that is exactly what Silver is well known for doing.

Although you were disappointed over a small amount of paint application woes, I did not read of any brightness or basic, image-related quality issues.

The application you tried? Now THAT can be labeled as being "plasma-like" in all respects. In fact, comments made by many to the effect it was "Better'n a Plasma" caused quite a row as far back as 2005. Any Spandex application is just simply a excellent Front Projection AT Screen choice.

Now qualifying my remarks, if one used a w1070 placed at minimal Throw on a 84" Silver over White Spandex screen, then yeah....it "would be close to being comparable to a Plasma in brightness and image quality. Go much if any beyond 98" and that will cease to be the case.

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post #1030 of 1042 Old 07-16-2015, 06:14 AM
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This is the Epson 2030 onto 110" silver over white spandex.

I just did them on my phone - I'll use my Rebel and a tripod to try getting some non-noisy shots of dark screens:



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Mironto's Panasonic plasma black level restoration guide
Restore the initial MLL on a 2009 Panasonic plasma
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post #1031 of 1042 Old 07-16-2015, 08:39 AM
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Please show actual screen grabs (paused) of movie/TV content.

Menus are not a good substitute....might as well be photos.

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post #1032 of 1042 Old 07-16-2015, 08:48 AM
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What exactly would you like me to put up there - something with a low/high APL? I can try specific movies/scenes if you have some in mind.

I was going to try getting some stuff from Green Lantern but my phone's camera wasn't up to the task. Far too noisy. So I just went with some colorful images to give a general idea of how the darker material worked out.

Unfortunately I don't have a blue filter, but otherwise I ran thru the AVS 709 disc for brightness and contrast and tried to line up the color clipping patterns.

My basement media room and bar
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Mironto's Panasonic plasma black level restoration guide
Restore the initial MLL on a 2009 Panasonic plasma

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post #1033 of 1042 Old 07-18-2015, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post
Well, I am getting a head start building the frame since the Silver spandex material is currently out of stock at Spandexworld.<br><br>
Frame is built with 1x4 kill-dried polar. T and L brackets. Screen Tight caps and splines for attaching the spandex.<br><br>
Here ya go! 54 x 96 (110")
I just wanted to say thanks for the thread and all the replys, as it helped me build my own 140" 16:9 screen. I used a very similar approach. 1x3 Grade A wood, Kregg Pocket hole jig, Screen channel and spandex. Here are some pics of my screen in progress before painting the frame black.
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Brad
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post #1034 of 1042 Old 07-18-2015, 05:15 AM
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Which one of the three did you go with?
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post #1035 of 1042 Old 07-18-2015, 06:28 AM
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Great to see the increased use of the Kreg Pocket Hole system. The effective elimination of the need for metal Braces or bulky Plywood Corner supports not only allows for more petite and lightweight frames, it also assures that those who can only straight cut corners (not miter) can build a rock solid, true frame, which is really what a good Spandex Screen is dependent upon.

I only wish I would have started using it years sooner myself!

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post #1036 of 1042 Old 07-19-2015, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
Which one of the three did you go with?
After a couple of weeks, I ended up with the white over silver.

Brad
AVR - Pioneer SC-85 Sources - Oppo 103D, FiOS
Speakers - TruAudio B23-465 (LCR), TruAudio B23-265 (R), Velodyne CT100 (S)
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post #1037 of 1042 Old 07-19-2015, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Great to see the increased use of the Kreg Pocket Hole system. The effective elimination of the need for metal Braces or bulky Plywood Corner supports not only allows for more petite and lightweight frames, it also assures that those who can only straight cut corners (not miter) can build a rock solid, true frame, which is really what a good Spandex Screen is dependent upon.

I only wish I would have started using it years sooner myself!
I would agree, it works for so many projects. I lucked out and the wife bought me a whole set at Woodcraft. She thought I was going to make her frames!

Brad
AVR - Pioneer SC-85 Sources - Oppo 103D, FiOS
Speakers - TruAudio B23-465 (LCR), TruAudio B23-265 (R), Velodyne CT100 (S)
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post #1038 of 1042 Old 07-19-2015, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpassman View Post
After a couple of weeks, I ended up with the white over silver.
Excellent choice. Probably what is called for in 95% of cases.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bpassman View Post
I would agree, it works for so many projects. I lucked out and the wife bought me a whole set at Woodcraft. She thought I was going to make her frames!
Then don't disappoint her. Yur a Frame-Buildin' Fool now!


BTW...just a few more screenies please...

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post #1039 of 1042 Old 07-19-2015, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
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After a couple of weeks, I ended up with the white over silver.
It looks like there isn't a huge amount of difference between the 3. So that's good
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post #1040 of 1042 Old 07-28-2015, 07:21 AM
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I worked on building the frame for my 16:9 103.5" wide Spandex AT screen.

I used some high quality Pine from Home Depot for the screen frame. I connected it tall together and using Glue, L-brackets, and T brackets. Since I was going to be hinging this screen like a door I really needed to reinforce the frame to support the weight.

I chiseled out the corners so that I could attach the L brackets + a straight bracket. I also Installed Angle Brackets in the corners as well to reinforce.

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I just now realized posting this I never took a picture of the screen tight attachments on back, I will try to take a photo tonight, but I lined the perimeter of the screen with Screen Tight for the Spandex Install

I then Flipped the screen over and installed the 1/4 round shoe molding on the front.
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I did some tests and it seems to be VERY stable and strong.

One of the requirements for the WAF was that the screen not open up (Like a garage door) but Pivot / Open like a door. I could not find anyone that has actually done it this way and it made me nervous as to why?

I placed my screen up where I wanted it, suing 2 bankers boxes on each side (this was perfect for getting the right height of the screen) I then marked on the wall where I wanted the hinges as well as marked on the screen. I had to remove my right side bass trap to do this. I will be notching out the locations in the bass trap frame where the hinges go.

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I took the screen down and used 4" Door Hinges. I was a littler nervous once I got everything put together that the screen would not hold or that it would bind while opening. I did have to cut 4 inch strips of a yard stick to bring the hinge off the wall about 1/8 of an inch to allow for the hing to open and close.

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It worked amazingly well. The Screen is perfectly level when closed and open, Doesn't sag at all and takes little to no effor to swing it open or closed. Very happy
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Question I have, Should I paint my frame? Black or White?

I will post pictures once I cover it in spandex

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Check out my theater build thread Theater on the Fairways Build
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post #1041 of 1042 Old Yesterday, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
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Question I have, Should I paint my frame? Black or White?
I would wrap the frame members in black fabric scraps or paint flat black otherwise, but I have not built a spandex screen and am basing that on others' posts. The quarter round will hold the spandex away from the main members but those outside edges will still show as a shadow based on others' pics. If it is not intended to be a zero edge screen then the border will hang past the quarter round and it won't be an issue.

BTW, I'm glad to see your side hinged screen working so well. I've suggested it to others but couldn't convince them without a working example. My own non-AT screen hinges up and clips to the ceiling to work behind it.

*********************
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post #1042 of 1042 Old Today, 05:42 AM
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i sprayed mine with cheap black paint. i cant see the frame when i project onto it, but i cant prove thats because i painted it black.

My basement media room and bar
Epson 2030, Onkyo TX-NR626, and Kodi based system

Mironto's Panasonic plasma black level restoration guide
Restore the initial MLL on a 2009 Panasonic plasma
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