110" DIY Spandex AT Screen - Page 38 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1111 of 1120 Old Yesterday, 12:13 PM
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The white brackets are mounted on drywall. In the picture the upper bracket looks like it's coming off the wall but that's just the drywall anchor not being flush with the wall.
I'd think mounting the screen to metal studs would work just fine. I like your idea of using magnets which would make fine positional adjustments really easy. I used those brackets just because I needed to create an air gap behind the screen for the center speaker and acoustic treatments.

Right now the screen is gray over white Milliskin but that creates a bit of a blurry image. I'll change to gray on black or white on black soon. Just waiting for my new projector to arrive so I can measure which works best.
Will take some pictures of how to attach the screen to the frame then. It's really easy if you follow the steps I've listed in post 1087.

Markus

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post #1112 of 1120 Old Yesterday, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markus767 View Post
My screen is 62" by 111" (127" diagonal). I consider this max. size. Spandex comes in max width of 60" and probably shouldn't be stretched more than 10%.

By the way, it's pretty easy to staple the fabric onto a wodden frame without the assistance of a second person helping when first cutting the fabric to the correct size. Put the two layers of Spandex on the floor and the frame on top of it. Then use the following mounting pattern which will uniformly stretch the fabric over the frame:

Code:
---1---
|     |
---2---

-------
3     4
-------

5------
|     |
------6

------7
|     |
8------
Add more mounting points always on opposite sides. Does that make sense?
sorry I know I'm being thick skulled but what do the numbers represent?
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post #1113 of 1120 Old Yesterday, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
sorry I know I'm being thick skulled but what do the numbers represent?
They represent the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc..spots you should stretch and staple in order.
Meaning to line up the material with the frame and then staple the top/center and then lightly stretch it evenly down to staple the bottom/center, then lightly pull to the left and staple the center/left, then balance that out by pulling to the right and stapling the center/right...then on to the opposite diagonals, and then filling the spaces between while working to keep the stretching and spacing evenly distributed.

If your eyes/glasses are good enough, you can sort of use the weave as a guiding line to make sure you're staying straight as you even things out between sides.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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post #1114 of 1120 Old Today, 12:33 AM
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Exactly. If the fabric is already cut to the correct length and width all you need to do is to stretch it over the frame by the same amount and everything lines up nicely.

Markus

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post #1115 of 1120 Old Today, 03:14 AM
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If the fabric is already cut to the correct length and width
measured how?

Also is it black first and then white or both layers together?
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post #1116 of 1120 Old Today, 03:50 AM
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(Screen size + frame) - 5-10%. Lay both layers of Milliskin Spandex on top of each other on the floor. Put the frame on top and start stapling. This way you can fix both layers in one go. White or gray should end up as the first layer and black is the backing layer.

Markus

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Last edited by markus767; Today at 03:54 AM.
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post #1117 of 1120 Old Today, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markus767 View Post
(Screen size + frame) - 5-10%. Lay both layers of Milliskin Spandex on top of each other on the floor. Put the frame on top and start stapling. This way you can fix both layers in one go. White or gray should end up as the first layer and black is the backing layer.
so in my case (144 x 62) it would be the full 60" width x 137-ish inches? That feels like too much horizontal stretch...

(thanks for replies!!!)
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post #1118 of 1120 Old Today, 04:00 AM
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The less stretching the better. Just make sure any visible wrinkles in the fabric are gone.

Markus

"In science, contrary evidence causes one to question a theory. In religion, contrary evidence causes one to question the evidence." - Floyd Toole
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post #1119 of 1120 Old Today, 07:35 AM
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ok so to recap - staple the middle on all four sides and then work your way to the corners?

you do want a little bit of stretching though, right? I guess I can always pull it until it's taut and then staple and then cut the excess going the long way.
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post #1120 of 1120 Old Today, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
ok so to recap - staple the middle on all four sides and then work your way to the corners?

you do want a little bit of stretching though, right? I guess I can always pull it until it's taut and then staple and then cut the excess going the long way.
You can stretch the Bottom layer a bit more than the Top layer, this to improve sound transmission and to serve as a more taunt base for your Top Layer to lay upon.

You stretch the Top Layer only so much as you get a smooth, wrinkle-free surface. That's about 10% in both directions. (6" to 8" each way)
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