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-   -   110" DIY Spandex AT Screen (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/1436181-110-diy-spandex-screen.html)

smokarz 10-28-2012 03:29 PM

Well, I am getting a head start building the frame since the Silver spandex material is currently out of stock at Spandexworld.

Frame is built with 1x4 kill-dried polar. T and L brackets. Screen Tight caps and splines for attaching the spandex.

Here ya go! 54 x 96 (110")

smokarz 10-28-2012 03:35 PM

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smokarz 10-28-2012 03:37 PM

I'd used some clamps and square ruler to keep the joints together while I screw.

It made things a little easier!

At this point, I am not sure if it will be white over silver, or silver over white.

When I get the material, I will throw it up and take some measurements to see which looks better.

Duke Broadway 10-28-2012 07:14 PM

Looks nice. As soon as i can more of basement construction done I will begin working on this project. as well. I have a few questions for you:

1. So is the frame 110" or is the viewing area after trim 110"?

2. How are you planning to mount to the wall? My plan is to make a french cleat out of 2X4 mounted to the 2 middle supports.

3. Are you concerned about the middle frame supports showing through the spandex?

Thanks,

Jason

smokarz 10-28-2012 08:42 PM

thanks.

the screen is 110". there will not be trims. i'll create a false wall with black AT fabric.

i've already have a french cleat on my existing screen to mount it.

not concern with the middle supports showing. but i won't know until my project on it.

dsl1 10-29-2012 09:06 AM

Have any photos with the screen tight on?

What are you using for your black at fabric?

smokarz 10-29-2012 10:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post

Have any photos with the screen tight on?
What are you using for your black at fabric?


Not yet. I'll post some later with the screen tight attached.

I'd used JoAnn's black fabric in the past for my AT panels. Need to dig up my order to see exactly what I bought.

smokarz 10-30-2012 04:25 AM

And here's the frame with tight screen caps attached.

I'll cut down the corner edges so they are squared.



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Gary Gleave 10-31-2012 09:44 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

And here's the frame with tight screen caps attached.
I'll cut down the corner edges so they are squared.
]

Can you post a link on how this works. Do you apply snaps to the spandex?

smokarz 10-31-2012 09:50 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Gleave View Post

Can you post a link on how this works. Do you apply snaps to the spandex?


I am not sure what you're asking

Edit: Ok MM clarified.

You use a roller knife to pushed the spandex into the grove on the caps. Then you roll the spline onto it, to keep it secure.

I believe that's how the guys around here done it.

MississippiMan 10-31-2012 10:31 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Gleave View Post

Can you post a link on how this works. Do you apply snaps to the spandex?[


Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

I am not sure what you're asking

He wants to know how the Spandex is attached to the "tight screen caps". Seems he thinks that some kind of Male/Female snap protocol is utilized.

I'm certain that it's a case of using a Round Rubber Strip inserted into a channel to secure the material, along the same lines as what is used when "re-screening" a Window Screen Frame.

I'm a little surprised your still undecided as to which material serves best as the "Top Layer". The Silver offers the best, most versatile performance, especially if the PJ in use has 1800+ lumen to work with. That has been pretty thoroughly ascertained at this point. Even if you have a PJ like a Epson 6010 or Panny 8000 with 200K to 500K Contrast going for it, the use of the Silver would both assure a better, more "contrasty" image under all conditions.

But hey.....nothing beats being sure than proving something to one's own satisfaction, so have a go at it and let the yearning masses know. smile.gif.

BTW, I'm pretty sure that you will have no "bleed through visual presence" of the inside vertical supports, but painting them White (...or silver...) will go a long way toward assuring that you don't. What is less than certain is as to if you might see any rise along the length of those vertical supports braces. It doesn't take much "rise" at any point to show up as a "Bump" or ridge if there is even a fractional difference in extra height between the vertical supports and the Outside Frame. Even the slightest "twist' down the road will show up as a vertical line. It is a shame though you didn't rout or chisel out a recess for the "Leg" of the center "T's" to rest in. All it would take is a recess as deep as the actual Hardware is thick to keep any possibility of there being any "surface transfer' of the wood. In fact, I'd say that is more of a concern than is as to if you get any visual Bleed through.

smokarz 10-31-2012 10:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I'm a little surprised your still undecided as to which material serves best as the "Top Layer". The Silver offers the best, most versatile performance, especially if the PJ in use has 1800+ lumen to work with. That has been pretty thoroughly ascertained at this point. Even if you have a PJ like a Epson 6010 or Panny 8000 with 200K to 500K Contrast going for it, the use of the Silver would both assure a better, more "contrasty" image under all conditions.
But hey.....nothing beats being sure than proving something to one's own satisfaction, so have a go at it and let the yearning masses know. smile.gif..

Yes, I like gray. But I have an Epson 8100 with 1800 lumens (that sounds like a lot huh?). Not when you run your PJ in cinema mode and calibrated it to Rec 709. You be lucky if you have half of that lumens.

I went from white, to gray (like it a lot), to white (brightness). Why buy a meter if you're not gonna use it. Might as well throw up the material, project some patterns, and take quick measurements to make sure which works better with your PJ and desired settings before building it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

BTW, I'm pretty sure that you will have no "bleed through visual presence" of the inside vertical supports, but painting them White (...or silver...) will go a long way toward assuring that you don't. What is less than certain is as to if you might see any rise along the length of those vertical supports braces. It doesn't take much "rise" at any point to show up as a "Bump" or ridge if there is even a fractional difference in extra height between the vertical supports and the Outside Frame. Even the slightest "twist' down the road will show up as a vertical line. It is a shame though you didn't rout or chisel out a recess for the "Leg" of the center "T's" to rest in. All it would take is a recess as deep as the actual Hardware is thick to keep any possibility of there being any "surface transfer' of the wood. In fact, I'd say that is more of a concern than is as to if you get any visual Bleed through.

Sadly, I am not a perfectionist. wink.gif

MississippiMan 10-31-2012 10:52 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post


Sadly, I am not a perfectionist. wink.gif

Harrumph ! mad.gif

biggrin.gif

Well I've often found that many people who claim to not be perfectionist in nature complain the most bitterly when things are not what they expected them to be. Especially if someone else can be pointed to as to being the blame for their disappointment.

Go figure. tongue.gif

Just let you have to deal with a very obvious vertical line running through your image and I bet your standards will ramp up a bit. wink.gif


BTW... 900 "calibrated" Lumens is a "LOT" of lumen output by anyone's method of measurement. The thing is....you would not be using REC 709 calibration on a Silver Gray screen.
A White surface? Absolutely.

smokarz 10-31-2012 11:56 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


The thing is....you would not be using REC 709 calibration on a Silver Gray screen.
A White surface? Absolutely

.

Now that is an interesting comment. I will have to explore further on this.

Gary Gleave 10-31-2012 11:56 AM

Thanks, I haven't seen that product before. I rip a 1/8th dado into the back of the screen frame on the table saw, then apply fabric using the "round rubber strip" with a spline roller. I find that some fabric is quite slippery for my method.

smokarz 11-02-2012 07:17 PM

Looks like the moleskin silver is back in stock.

How many yards of spandex do i need for a 110" diag screen (96" length).

Will 2 yards do, or do I need 3 yards?

Duke Broadway 11-02-2012 08:24 PM

i think other threads i read people going with 3 yards. Im going for a 100-106 and probably will order 3 yards, but if 2 is plenty by those in the know i will go less.

MississippiMan 11-03-2012 01:36 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

Looks like the moleskin silver is back in stock.
How many yards of spandex do i need for a 110" diag screen (96" length).
Will 2 yards do, or do I need 3 yards?

Always better to have more than enough than too little, as so far no one has discovered a way to "grow" additional Spandex.

Getting the degree of needed stretch out of Spandex still has limitations.

smokarz 11-03-2012 05:18 AM

True. 3 yards it is.

smokarz 11-03-2012 07:07 AM

Just ordered 3yards of white and silver moleskin. Build should be done by next week.

design1stcode2nd 11-08-2012 12:09 PM

Where did you buy your screen track? Seems like this is a very cost effective screen even if you don't want AT.

SCHNEEDOO 11-08-2012 12:18 PM

My local Home Depot store stocks the track.

smokarz 11-08-2012 12:28 PM

You can get them at the local Lowes or Home Depot stores.

Btw, the spandex arrived yesterday. They are indeed heavy and thick.

I should be able to throw them up tonight for some quick testing and measurements.

smokarz 11-08-2012 07:01 PM

Had a chance to play around with the spandex tonight and took some shots. Judge for yourself.

The left side of the screen is my SW Extra White painted Sintra/Komatex screen. The right side is the Moleskin Mattte Silver spandex folded in half and hang on the screen.

My Epson 8100 PJ is calibrated to rec 709 on Natural setting and is measured at 16ftL.

The silver spandex measured around 6.5ftL on the same settings. Once I switched to Living Room mode, it clocked in at 17ftL, but the image is overly bright and washed out.

Looks like I'll be building a white on silver spandex screen.

Once I finished building this screen, I'll measure its AT properties.'

I am using an i1 Display Pro with Fork HCFR for measurements.

Hope this is helpful.

smokarz 11-08-2012 07:06 PM

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