He wants to know how the Spandex is attached to the "tight screen caps". Seems he thinks that some kind of Male/Female snap protocol is utilized.
I'm certain that it's a case of using a Round Rubber Strip inserted into a channel to secure the material, along the same lines as what is used when "re-screening" a Window Screen Frame.
I'm a little surprised your still undecided as to which material serves best as the "Top Layer". The Silver offers the best, most versatile performance, especially if the PJ in use has 1800+ lumen to work with. That has been pretty thoroughly ascertained at this point. Even if you have a PJ like a Epson 6010 or Panny 8000 with 200K to 500K Contrast going for it, the use of the Silver would both assure a better, more "contrasty" image under all conditions.
But hey.....nothing beats being sure than proving something to one's own satisfaction, so have a go at it and let the yearning masses know.
.
BTW, I'm pretty sure that you will have no "bleed through visual presence" of the inside vertical supports, but painting them White (...or silver...) will go a long way toward assuring that you don't. What is less than certain is as to if you might see any rise along the length of those vertical supports braces. It doesn't take much "rise" at any point to show up as a "Bump" or ridge if there is even a fractional difference in extra height between the vertical supports and the Outside Frame. Even the slightest "twist' down the road will show up as a vertical line. It is a shame though you didn't rout or chisel out a recess for the "Leg" of the center "T's" to rest in. All it would take is a recess as deep as the actual Hardware is thick to keep any possibility of there being any "surface transfer' of the wood. In fact, I'd say that is more of a concern than is as to if you get any visual Bleed through.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22543898
I'm a little surprised your still undecided as to which material serves best as the "Top Layer". The Silver offers the best, most versatile performance, especially if the PJ in use has 1800+ lumen to work with. That has been pretty thoroughly ascertained at this point. Even if you have a PJ like a Epson 6010 or Panny 8000 with 200K to 500K Contrast going for it, the use of the Silver would both assure a better, more "contrasty" image under all conditions.
But hey.....nothing beats being sure than proving something to one's own satisfaction, so have a go at it and let the yearning masses know.
Yes, I like gray. But I have an Epson 8100 with 1800 lumens (that sounds like a lot huh?). Not when you run your PJ in cinema mode and calibrated it to Rec 709. You be lucky if you have half of that lumens.
I went from white, to gray (like it a lot), to white (brightness). Why buy a meter if you're not gonna use it. Might as well throw up the material, project some patterns, and take quick measurements to make sure which works better with your PJ and desired settings before building it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /t/1436181/110-diy-spandex-at-screen#post_22543898
BTW, I'm pretty sure that you will have no "bleed through visual presence" of the inside vertical supports, but painting them White (...or silver...) will go a long way toward assuring that you don't. What is less than certain is as to if you might see any rise along the length of those vertical supports braces. It doesn't take much "rise" at any point to show up as a "Bump" or ridge if there is even a fractional difference in extra height between the vertical supports and the Outside Frame. Even the slightest "twist' down the road will show up as a vertical line. It is a shame though you didn't rout or chisel out a recess for the "Leg" of the center "T's" to rest in. All it would take is a recess as deep as the actual Hardware is thick to keep any possibility of there being any "surface transfer' of the wood. In fact, I'd say that is more of a concern than is as to if you get any visual Bleed through.
Well I've often found that many people who claim to not be perfectionist in nature complain the most bitterly when things are not what they expected them to be. Especially if someone else can be pointed to as to being the blame for their disappointment.
Go figure.
Just let you have to deal with a very obvious vertical line running through your image and I bet your standards will ramp up a bit.
BTW... 900 "calibrated" Lumens is a "LOT" of lumen output by anyone's method of measurement. The thing is....you would not be using REC 709 calibration on a Silver Gray screen.
Thanks, I haven't seen that product before. I rip a 1/8th dado into the back of the screen frame on the table saw, then apply fabric using the "round rubber strip" with a spline roller. I find that some fabric is quite slippery for my method.
i think other threads i read people going with 3 yards. Im going for a 100-106 and probably will order 3 yards, but if 2 is plenty by those in the know i will go less.
Had a chance to play around with the spandex tonight and took some shots. Judge for yourself.
The left side of the screen is my SW Extra White painted Sintra/Komatex screen. The right side is the Moleskin Mattte Silver spandex folded in half and hang on the screen.
My Epson 8100 PJ is calibrated to rec 709 on Natural setting and is measured at 16ftL.
The silver spandex measured around 6.5ftL on the same settings. Once I switched to Living Room mode, it clocked in at 17ftL, but the image is overly bright and washed out.
Looks like I'll be building a white on silver spandex screen.
Once I finished building this screen, I'll measure its AT properties.'
I am using an i1 Display Pro with Fork HCFR for measurements.
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