Originally Posted by MississippiMan
1. This has been attempted before, and it does not work. Why not try it yourself before suggesting that someone deviate from a known and working solution? It seems so easy to say, "It can be substituted by simply tinting" but in doing so it shows that you really do not have any idea of the varying factors involved. The Colorant has specific and defined properties, it is both dark, balanced, and actually translucent itself...and is introduced in very small percentages....more so than any tint.
2. You don't even know or are not aware that the Martha Stewart Metallic Silver is no longer available...hasn't been for 3-4 months. Why? Because all your doing is making supposition and guesses. Your not actually doing anything.
3. There has been advocates of trying to duplicate SF by merely Tinting bases into darker Gray shades, trying to color match components. The result was abject attenuation, especially if the shade was rendered dark enough to supposedly have significant impact on the effects of ambient light. All that such Tints even did was to attenuate, and the ONLY solution for such surfaces was to flood them with high lumen. Even that wasn't a viable solution because such tinted shades are derived from the blending of various Tints, they do not posses the needed properties nor are they a part of a loosely blended Translucent mix.
4. I am reading into these posts a concerted effort to detract from the proven ideas behind what is a well proven DIY application. First one thread then another, the stated opinion is "It's not needed", yet nowhere do I read, "I tried it myself, and did my own comparisons". However your continuing to make definitive statements as if you know with certainty seems like you have a specific agenda here. Why? If you really knew about what you speak of, and were suggesting to newcomers to try alternatives that you KNOW would work, that would be an entirely different story. I don't see that happening here though.
5.Take into account the image posted of the BBall game with the surrounding wall obviously illuminated with room light. Can you really think a simplified Gray Tinted solution will accomplish that? Do you have any idea what happens when the RGBY Colorant blends with the Reflective mix?
6. For 10 years on there have been others as well....those who seemed determined to dismiss the need, they very validity of something that actually does what nothing else can, at least at a level that other applications fall well short of.
1. I'm not suggesting anyone replace the rgby acrylic with tints..I'm suggesting someone who needs to do without the acrylics replace them with an overall equal amount of latex that's tinted the same shade as what the acrylics mix-up as.
2. One of the stores near me still has a bunch of Martha Stewart silver metallic on clearance. It, the RL, and the rustoleum can be interchangeable but I didn't remember which between the MS and RL were getting axed.
3. I wasn't suggesting they try to alter results or shades..what works works and I'd rather not mess too much with a successful blend of shades, mica and translucency. Just trying to find a way to use worthy substitutes without altering the mix and work put into it.
4. Understandable. I have to say that judging from the pictures and opinions it looks really good. It looks good on the wall (that sharp, borderless edge is quite cool) and it looks nice in the dark. I think the effort/skill to result ratio is a little unfortunate for a darkroom use and it appears to work too subtly in a bright room, but honestly that good balance is part of its greatness. It ISNT bad looking in the dark like so many light-fighters are (even if I don't think it's worth the work over a white screen in a dark room) and it IS an improvement in the light (even if it isn't as huge of a difference as I'd personally like) and that allows it to work well in a room that uses both!
It fights some light without ruining darkrooms and that's a good thing. I just believe white works just about as well in a decent room and with a lot less newby mistake worries and less required supplies.
But in this particular case I was just trying to find HomeDepot ingredients that could substitute well.
5. I believe the mica/reflectance is absolutely important which is why I gave two possible Homedepot substitution options for the rustoleum. I do know what happens and I don't believe a simple grey screen would add anything.
6. Which is why I was suggesting they remain as close to this thoroughly studied and worked-on mix as possible while using supplies available at their location.
For what it's worth, I've seen hard measured data on the older SF axis/off-axis brightness drift and it performed very well as far as I'm concerned. It had a generous viewing area with a sharp dropoff into the sides which is much better for fighting light and much more watchable than the typical brightness spike at center and gradual dropoff toward the edges.
I just don't know how that particular mix compares to this updated version.
...also my paint-sprayer seems to have sprouted legs, so that may be tainting my opinion.
Edit: speak of the devil, paint-sprayer showed up with a suitcase and apology..I let it back in, out of the cold.
What's the least expensive way to mix up some SF for someone basically surrounded by hardware and artsupply stores?