My Silver Fire V2.5 3.0 Screen - AVS Forum
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Guys,

Thought I would share my experiences in spraying a Silver Fire V2.5 3.0 screen over the weekend. I had previously created a thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1435528/recommendations-wanted-for-best-paint-to-use-in-small-dedicated-theater-with-epson-3010 to get some input on the best paint to use in my situation. Since I wasn't sure of which formulation of RS MaxxMudd MM was recommending and I already had the supplies on hand for SF, I did some additional reading and decided to give 3.0 a shot to help my contrast ratio while also keeping a good level of brightness for 3d viewing. I had the time and supplies, and mistakes can be corrected if I don't like the results, so away I went!

I put together my Dexter kill room Sunday morning and sprayed a few coats of Behr UPW as a primer/base. Next it was on to the Silver Fire. Let me first off add my appreciation for the squirrel cage mixer recommendation. Mixing up all of those components would have been a complete disaster without that squirrel cage, and with it mixing was a breeze! After getting everything measured out and creating my 3.0 mix, I loaded up the Wagner and started laying down coats. I took it slow and tried to lay down a thin coat each round (close to a "duster" for every coat until maybe the 5th) and put down either 7 or 8 coats, I'm not sure at this point exactly how many were sprayed over the course of the day...

The results:

There's a few imperfections and I definitely learned that I will need to take a bit more time preparing the surface prior to starting to paint next time, but even so I'm VERY happy with the results. Contrast ratio and color saturation are greatly improved. The image REALLY pops off the screen now and looks fantastic! Time will tell if the small imperfections I ended up with bother me enough to tape everything up again and make some repairs, but for now I'm ecstatic with the way it looks!

Sorry I didn't take photos during the process, but here's a couple (bad) pictures taken with my iPhone 4 that is on it's last legs:

the screen:


screenshot taken during the day with door/blinds closed but ambient light still present:


The pictures are pretty bad & grainy but hopefully they give some indication of the results. I'll update this thread with better pictures when I get my new camera and as I add framing/other room treatments.

Last, I'd like to extend a HUGE THANK YOU to everyone here that has contributed to the base of knowledge in the DIY Screen forum. There's a HUGE amount of info here and it can be overwhelming but the results are fantastic if you research and give it a shot!
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:14 AM
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Let me be the first to say;

"Good job and Happy viewing!"

..........oh yeah, and let's see some better shots of Cameron. cool.gifbiggrin.gif

(...sans Tommy Boy...)

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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Old 10-29-2012, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks MM!

I'll work on some better pics as soon as I get a better camera in smile.gif
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
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In case anyone is interested, I wanted to post one more photo of the screen in it's current state showing how viewable it is with full lights on. This picture was taken at night (so no ambient daylight) with full lights on in the room. The light is your standard run of the mill overhead dual 60 watt room light that is BRIGHT. You can see the top of the screen is somewhat washed out but let me tell you in person it is definitely watchable. SF is fantastic stuff!

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Old 11-11-2012, 11:18 AM
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Very cool! cool.gif

It looks like a plasma built into the wall. I myself am getting ready to paint with silver fire 4.0 any day now.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:21 PM
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I concur. considering how much light Ricocetj says is washing directly against the screen from above speaks volumes about SF's ambient light performance potential under adverse conditions.

One can easily imagine how the image must be crazy good under really low / no lighting.

Black Diamond owners.....eat your hearts out. cool.gif
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:34 AM
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I love the way this looks, Just wish i could find all the supplys at home depot
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Old 08-28-2014, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwolfevi View Post
I love the way this looks, Just wish i could find all the supplys at home depot
If you need to, the individual colors can be substituted by adding an equal amount of tinted interior latex..or simply tinting the light-base/Behr slightly darker and using the appropriate amount more to make-up for the difference.
The liquitex and rustoleum can be substituted by HomeDepot's silver metallic Martha Stewart or Ralph Lauren tinted to a pale silver.

If you get the tints and amounts the same, the results should be close enough to be imperceptible. If you get it slightly different but are still pleased with the results..write down what you used and did and you'll have made your own unique screen mix.

I'm sure there are others who'd benefit from and appreciate someone finding a nice, easy, one-stop shopping solution.

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.

Last edited by Ftoast; 08-28-2014 at 03:03 AM.
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:01 AM
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This has been attempted before, and it does not work. Why not try it yourself before suggesting that someone deviate from a known and working solution? It seems so easy to say, "It can be substituted by simply tinting" but in doing so it shows that you really do not have any idea of the varying factors involved. The Colorant has specific and defined properties, it is both dark, balanced, and actually translucent itself...and is introduced in very small percentages....more so than any tint.

You don't even know or are not aware that the Martha Stewart Metallic Silver is no longer available...hasn't been for 3-4 months. Why? Because all your doing is making supposition and guesses. Your not actually doing anything.

There has been advocates of trying to duplicate SF by merely Tinting bases into darker Gray shades, trying to color match components. The result was abject attenuation, especially if the shade was rendered dark enough to supposedly have significant impact on the effects of ambient light. All that such Tints even did was to attenuate, and the ONLY solution for such surfaces was to flood them with high lumen. Even that wasn't a viable solution because such tinted shades are derived from the blending of various Tints, they do not posses the needed properties nor are they a part of a loosely blended Translucent mix.

I am reading into these posts a concerted effort to detract from the proven ideas behind what is a well proven DIY application. First one thread then another, the stated opinion is "It's not needed", yet nowhere do I read, "I tried it myself, and did my own comparisons". However your continuing to make definitive statements as if you know with certainty seems like you have a specific agenda here. Why? If you really knew about what you speak of, and were suggesting to newcomers to try alternatives that you KNOW would work, that would be an entirely different story. I don't see that happening here though.

Take into account the image posted of the BBall game with the surrounding wall obviously illuminated with room light. Can you really think a simplified Gray Tinted solution will accomplish that? Do you have any idea what happens when the RGBY Colorant blends with the Reflective mix?

For 10 years on there have been others as well....those who seemed determined to dismiss the need, they very validity of something that actually does what nothing else can, at least at a level that other applications fall well short of.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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Old 08-28-2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
1. This has been attempted before, and it does not work. Why not try it yourself before suggesting that someone deviate from a known and working solution? It seems so easy to say, "It can be substituted by simply tinting" but in doing so it shows that you really do not have any idea of the varying factors involved. The Colorant has specific and defined properties, it is both dark, balanced, and actually translucent itself...and is introduced in very small percentages....more so than any tint.

2. You don't even know or are not aware that the Martha Stewart Metallic Silver is no longer available...hasn't been for 3-4 months. Why? Because all your doing is making supposition and guesses. Your not actually doing anything.

3. There has been advocates of trying to duplicate SF by merely Tinting bases into darker Gray shades, trying to color match components. The result was abject attenuation, especially if the shade was rendered dark enough to supposedly have significant impact on the effects of ambient light. All that such Tints even did was to attenuate, and the ONLY solution for such surfaces was to flood them with high lumen. Even that wasn't a viable solution because such tinted shades are derived from the blending of various Tints, they do not posses the needed properties nor are they a part of a loosely blended Translucent mix.

4. I am reading into these posts a concerted effort to detract from the proven ideas behind what is a well proven DIY application. First one thread then another, the stated opinion is "It's not needed", yet nowhere do I read, "I tried it myself, and did my own comparisons". However your continuing to make definitive statements as if you know with certainty seems like you have a specific agenda here. Why? If you really knew about what you speak of, and were suggesting to newcomers to try alternatives that you KNOW would work, that would be an entirely different story. I don't see that happening here though.

5.Take into account the image posted of the BBall game with the surrounding wall obviously illuminated with room light. Can you really think a simplified Gray Tinted solution will accomplish that? Do you have any idea what happens when the RGBY Colorant blends with the Reflective mix?

6. For 10 years on there have been others as well....those who seemed determined to dismiss the need, they very validity of something that actually does what nothing else can, at least at a level that other applications fall well short of.
1. I'm not suggesting anyone replace the rgby acrylic with tints..I'm suggesting someone who needs to do without the acrylics replace them with an overall equal amount of latex that's tinted the same shade as what the acrylics mix-up as.

2. One of the stores near me still has a bunch of Martha Stewart silver metallic on clearance. It, the RL, and the rustoleum can be interchangeable but I didn't remember which between the MS and RL were getting axed.

3. I wasn't suggesting they try to alter results or shades..what works works and I'd rather not mess too much with a successful blend of shades, mica and translucency. Just trying to find a way to use worthy substitutes without altering the mix and work put into it.

4. Understandable. I have to say that judging from the pictures and opinions it looks really good. It looks good on the wall (that sharp, borderless edge is quite cool) and it looks nice in the dark. I think the effort/skill to result ratio is a little unfortunate for a darkroom use and it appears to work too subtly in a bright room, but honestly that good balance is part of its greatness. It ISNT bad looking in the dark like so many light-fighters are (even if I don't think it's worth the work over a white screen in a dark room) and it IS an improvement in the light (even if it isn't as huge of a difference as I'd personally like) and that allows it to work well in a room that uses both!
It fights some light without ruining darkrooms and that's a good thing. I just believe white works just about as well in a decent room and with a lot less newby mistake worries and less required supplies.
But in this particular case I was just trying to find HomeDepot ingredients that could substitute well.

5. I believe the mica/reflectance is absolutely important which is why I gave two possible Homedepot substitution options for the rustoleum. I do know what happens and I don't believe a simple grey screen would add anything.

6. Which is why I was suggesting they remain as close to this thoroughly studied and worked-on mix as possible while using supplies available at their location.


For what it's worth, I've seen hard measured data on the older SF axis/off-axis brightness drift and it performed very well as far as I'm concerned. It had a generous viewing area with a sharp dropoff into the sides which is much better for fighting light and much more watchable than the typical brightness spike at center and gradual dropoff toward the edges.
I just don't know how that particular mix compares to this updated version.

...also my paint-sprayer seems to have sprouted legs, so that may be tainting my opinion.


Edit: speak of the devil, paint-sprayer showed up with a suitcase and apology..I let it back in, out of the cold.
What's the least expensive way to mix up some SF for someone basically surrounded by hardware and artsupply stores?

Simple <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room, build in a day, takedown in an hour.
Easy $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.

Last edited by Ftoast; 08-30-2014 at 07:54 AM.
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