Panasonic ae4000u - low ambient - screen choice - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-21-2012, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Dear AVS comunity,

I am taking the leap into the Projection world and have found your forum invaluable for information, thanks. I wanted to run my idea for the setup by you guys before I take the plunge and get the materials. I have found a good second hand Panny so that shuld be arriving next week.

The room:

The projector is going to be setup in the basement. It has a low ceiling (8 1/2 feet). It is clear apart from the roof supports which divide it down the middle. The walls are currently very light color so I intend to put up velvet pannelling within the viewing area. The paneling will also serve to separate the viewing area from the rest of the basement.

A pic of the intended setup:


There are two small windows in the basement that I intend to cover up with light blocking vinyl, attached to velcrow fixed to wood batons. Another idea I got from here.biggrin.gif

The screen:

I realise that having a low sealing and the wall to the right pretty close restricts my screen size, but I would like to go as big as possible. smile.gif

Having studied the Pannys output I hoped to go with a 142" diagonal 2.35:1 screen, as I will mainly be using it for movies and because the panny has the lens memory function so I can easily keep the constant height for xbox gaming. With that in mind I was also intending to make some simple horizontal blinds out of the velvet to blank the screen when in 16:9.

The projector calculator tells me that I will achieve about 13fl with this setup which I realise is not a whole lot. This puts the projector 16' from the screen and keeps some zoom in reserve. I am keen to DIY and have looked with great interest through the Silver Fire and Maxxmud threads. I also looked at the spandex ideas but realise they have less benefit in terms of gain, something I think I need.

So:

1. Whats screen would be best for this setup?
2. Am I going too big?
3. If you would recommend a painted screen, what mix should I be using?
4. Is there anything about my setup in general you would change? (I have pretty limited funds for this).

Thanks v much for your comments in advance, and for your forums info in genral.

Simon
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-22-2012, 05:41 AM
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Hello fortytoo,

...and welcome aboard the DIY Screen Forum!

The size screen you have / want is the determining factor as to what your screen must be made of and what type of coating it should receive.

The best possible route to take....if the wall makes it possible, is to spend the effort to make the Drywall itself become the screen. There are few substrates available that are sized large enough to take you to - beyond 140" diagonal, and most of those are Fabrics that must be stretched across a well built Frame, then painted anyway.

The Panny's lens memory requires that the lens be level with the Top of the screen and preferably within the Screens viewable area. It is advisable to get the PJ in, mount it at the position you can best accommodate, display some 2.35:1 Content and set up the memory, then mark of the borders of the image on the wall (w/ 1.5" extra all around ) with painter's Blue Tape.
(The above is done after you have smoothed the wall....if required)

Now comes the priming and painting. Being new....and in keeping with budgetary considerations, rolling on RS-MaxxMudd LL is your best choice. That mix is ideally suited for the Panny's 1600 lumen output, and will provide at least 1.3 gain to deliver you had to be thinking about to achieve even 13 fls from 16'

Dropping your screen size down to 130" diagonal @ 2.35:1 only gets you 1 fls additional so i say nutz to dat.

I do suggest that you concentrate on making sure your ceiling is wholly non-reflective ( a very Dark Gray is better than Black ) and keep that Pj mounted as high as possible. Use a Chief RPA-Dedicated Mount and a Peerless ACC570 Ceiling Plate w/ 2" Threaded Nipple as this combo will allow the lens to be just 7" from the Ceiling / Wall juncture (...you can increase the Nipple length by 2" increments...)

I make this suggestion because if you Game, you probably like to / want to crowd the Screen and the higher the PJ / Screen is placed, the closer you can get to the screen without cutting the Projector's beam. Immersion is a vital part of most games....just as it is when viewing CinemaScope Movies.

The RS-MaxxMudd LL is a great starting point. If you opt to trim the Screen using 3.25" Black velvet wrapped MDF Trim that is attached to the wall with a minimum of 1-1/4 Finish nails, should you decide to ever change the screen's color / gain composition, you can simply paint right over that mix.

The only uncertainty involves rolling with consummate care....or not. Most have no issues, but roller marks are always a possibility. Spraying is always a better choice, but involves at least some small amount of additional investment ($50-60.00) for a Graco sprayer and the now suggested 1.5mm needle accessory.

Choose the method that suits your madness.....and you can count on the support you'll need to move forward in confidence..

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-22-2012, 06:29 AM
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I just had to redo my 92 inch painted blackout cloth screen. I was going to go with a spandex screen but after further researching i went with a RS-MaxxMudd LL screen. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out smile.gif . Found all the paint supplies at Home depot and Joann's Fabrics. The mix was straight forward and easy to mix and roll. My room has some daylight and the screen handles it fairly well.
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-22-2012, 12:02 PM - Thread Starter
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MM: Thanks very much for the reply and advice. I will definitly go for the RS-MaxxMudd LL. From all that I have read it seems sparying is the best option and I like a new challenge.
Quote:
I do suggest that you concentrate on making sure your ceiling is wholly non-reflective ( a very Dark Gray is better than Black ) and keep that Pj mounted as high as possible.

The ceiling is currently wooden joists (being the floor for the downstairs). Due to them running laterally in rows facing the screen, i would image the wood would reflect quite badly back at the screen. Therefore I think my best bet is to use material create a dark 'ceiling'. Might be a fire risk though with the projector so close frown.gif

One thing I should of mentioned is that the wall that the screen will be on has a small window at the top:



I understand the height of the room requires the screen to be as high as possible, in order that no head shadows start popping up at the bottom. I like the simplicity of painting the drywall but this darn window gets right in the way.

If I covered the window up is there a way to paint the Mudd onto a stretched fabric? I understand from your comment that the screen size is problematic for most other substrates. My other option is to re-think the layout and project onto a clear bit of drywall but that is not ideal. Edit: Ive looked at it and this wall with the window is the only option. I found a plastic source quite close, he only has 12mm sintra which I think is overkill. He said a cheaper option would be ACP or Sandwich panel (about $160 for a 137" diagonal) what do you think?

Splatte: Thanks for your comments, im not suprised the painting is an improvement with the dedication MississipiMan and pb_maxx have put into this stuff, I'm excited to have found this place.

Thanks again to you both.biggrin.gif
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-22-2012, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I've had another good think about the room layout and I think a substrate over the blocked window is my only choice so maybe I am going to have to compromise on size. I realize that adding a substrate is going to increase the costs but I want to end up with something neat. I am going to be staring at it for hours!

Another question.... Is the reason to go for RS-MaxxMudd LL over SF 2.0 simply price? Or is the panny better suited to the RS-MaxxMudd? (I relaise there is a very similar question being asked in a concurrent thread but the 8350 is pumping out a few more lumens i think).

Thanks.
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-22-2012, 06:14 PM
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RS-MaxxMudd LL all the way. You need gain more than contrast boosting at the size

A Sandwich Panel is OK...as long as one side is smooth and rigid.

I don't think dropping from 142" to 137" will have you missing the difference.

As for the ceiling, applying Black Velvet stretched and stapled across the Joists directly above the Screen will present NO hazard with the PJ being 11--12' away.
Bought by the yard (42" wide) you can first try one strip across and see if that suffices. If not, simply add another strip to increase the Blackout effect to 84". That'll do it, that's a certainty.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-22-2012, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Brilliant, thanks.

I will keep this thread updated with my progress.

See you soon.
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