A Few Clarification Questions for the Pros Please: Pro8200 & Spandex DIY Screen - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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My brand new Pro8200 arrived Wednesday and is currently installed and running on my 100" Doable screen in a light-controlled basement and wow is this sucker bright! My plan was to use a Parkland Polywall to make a 122" screen 16:9 format but that idea is now going by the wayside now that I'm hearing more about the spandex DIY screens.

So from what I'm reading I need to build a frame and the popular material is 1" x 3" kiln-dried Poplar using T and L brackets. I also read that using screen tight on the back for attachment is the way to go and using a 1" x 2" x 8' (or longer in my case probably) board is the best method for 'rolling' the screen onto to stretch uniformly. I have a Home Depot as well as a Lowe's local to me so so far no problem. Just need to compile a list once I have measurements and a plan of attack.

Up next is the actual spandex itself. I'm reading about a silver and a white and I think that these are them here: silver & white. Can someone verify that for me? If that's the proper material I need to figure out how much to order. Originally I was planning a 122" diag 16:9 screen because that's what I could get out of my sheet of 5x10 Polywall. I'm not dead set on that size but would rather not go any smaller unless there is a good reason either from a financial standpoint or labor standpoint to do so. In other words, if I will find it impossible to get the proper length sections to build the frame or something along those lines. However, if I can go larger with basically the same materials I also have the space (I think) for a larger screen. Maybe like a 128" or something. Dunno. At any rate, how much of that spandex should I order? I see some say 2yds and some say 3yds is too much am not sure what the general consensus is on what really is enough for a screen project of this size. Well a 2yd section yield enough for a 128" screen easily or will I be pushing it? I'm not saying that I'm for sure doing 128" but it seems like stock levels can be an issue for this stuff plus I have to wait for shipping so I want to get that much on the way today while I go acquire the rest of the materials locally and formulate a plan and start on the process. I just want to make sure I'm going with the right materials that will yield the best results for my projector and viewing conditions.

Thanks for the help!

Jer

'Build a man a fire and he stays warm for one night. Set a man afire and he stays warm for the rest of his life.'
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post #2 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 05:07 PM
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3 Yards....be safe.

The Spandex in your Links is correct, although this : http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/6409

.......is slightly darker a silver.

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post #3 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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3 Yards....be safe.

The Spandex in your Links is correct, although this : http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/6409

.......is slightly darker a silver.

Okay, I saw some mention of Moleskin so this is the one people use then, huh? Seems to be pretty popular anyway as I saw it mentioned a few times during my research. You think this will be the best combo for the Pro8200 in a controlled light situation? If so, I'll get 3yds of the millskin matte white and 3yds of that Moleskin Matte silver (you linked to) on it's way now. White Millskin for the base and then silver Moleskin for the top. That all sound about right?

Jer

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post #4 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 08:08 PM
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Okay, I saw some mention of Moleskin so this is the one people use then, huh? Seems to be pretty popular anyway as I saw it mentioned a few times during my research. You think this will be the best combo for the Pro8200 in a controlled light situation? If so, I'll get 3yds of the millskin matte white and 3yds of that Moleskin Matte silver (you linked to) on it's way now. White Millskin for the base and then silver Moleskin for the top. That all sound about right?

Pretty much.

One member, in the search for some additional Brightness on his Silver/White combo, came across the "Millskin" and made note that it appeared to be a slightly lighter shade of silver. His Pj did not have the lumen output of your 8200, so his choice made sense for him.

In your situation, the darker Moleskin will help boost your Black level rendition. Then again, so will the Millskin, although a little bit less. The overriding issue with both is the appearance of "Whites". Any Gray, or non-reflective Silver will tend to attenuate whites. While this is not something one can notice under any solitary observation, however if one compares a White Spandex to a Moleskin Silver side-by-side, the attenuation is obvious. Not grossly so, but there nonetheless. This isn't a revelation or anything. All Grays that are rated under 1.0 gain are going to attenuate Whites....and any direct comparison to a white will always favor the white as far as sheer brightness is concerned. But Brightness isn't always desirable, as you yourself have found. Some use lens filters...which also can help and are avowed by many as a superior method.

The Silver Moleskin vs White Moleskin comparison was made on one of the threads....and had some little bit to do with a couple of members opting to use a White over Silver combo. The member who found the Millskin and obtained some material did his own test and found the lighter Millskin was quite acceptable as a "top Layer" with White Spandex under-layment. No matter what else is said or considered, a Silver/Gray surface will always provide a more richer viewing experience if attenuation is held in check.

In the end, it's all about the available Lumen output, the PJ's original Contrast (...or lack thereof...) and Screen size / Reflectivity / Absorbancy (w/spandex) And of course, personal Preference.

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post #5 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, I saw some mention of Moleskin so this is the one people use then, huh? Seems to be pretty popular anyway as I saw it mentioned a few times during my research. You think this will be the best combo for the Pro8200 in a controlled light situation? If so, I'll get 3yds of the millskin matte white and 3yds of that Moleskin Matte silver (you linked to) on it's way now. White Millskin for the base and then silver Moleskin for the top. That all sound about right?

Pretty much.

One member, in the search for some additional Brightness on his Silver/White combo, came across the "Millskin" and made note that it appeared to be a slightly lighter shade of silver. His Pj did not have the lumen output of your 8200, so his choice made sense for him.

In your situation, the darker Moleskin will help boost your Black level rendition. Then again, so will the Millskin, although a little bit less. The overriding issue with both is the appearance of "Whites". Any Gray, or non-reflective Silver will tend to attenuate whites. While this is not something one can notice under any solitary observation, however if one compares a White Spandex to a Moleskin Silver side-by-side, the attenuation is obvious. Not grossly so, but there nonetheless. This isn't a revelation or anything. All Grays that are rated under 1.0 gain are going to attenuate Whites....and any direct comparison to a white will always favor the white as far as sheer brightness is concerned. But Brightness isn't always desirable, as you yourself have found. Some use lens filters...which also can help and are avowed by many as a superior method.

The Silver Moleskin vs White Moleskin comparison was made on one of the threads....and had some little bit to do with a couple of members opting to use a White over Silver combo. The member who found the Millskin and obtained some material did his own test and found the lighter Millskin was quite acceptable as a "top Layer" with White Spandex under-layment. No matter what else is said or considered, a Silver/Gray surface will always provide a more richer viewing experience if attenuation is held in check.

In the end, it's all about the available Lumen output, the PJ's original Contrast (...or lack thereof...) and Screen size / Reflectivity / Absorbancy (w/spandex) And of course, personal Preference.

So taking all of that into considering, assuming I'm reading your posts right, it's your opinion that the silver moleskin surface with the white millskin underneath will be the best for my Pro8200 and a 128" screen in a light-controlled room, right?

Jer

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post #6 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 08:35 PM
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I would think you would want a moleskin backer vs the thinner milliskin
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post #7 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I would think you would want a moleskin backer vs the thinner milliskin

Oh, so both of them moleskin then? Matte white backer and matte silver in front?

Jer

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post #8 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 08:47 PM
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Oh, so both of them moleskin then? Matte white backer and matte silver in front?

That's the ticket. cool.gif

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post #9 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 08:50 PM - Thread Starter
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There's two different versions as seen here... one has a brush finish. Just the standard one w/o the brush finish I assume?

Jer

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post #10 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 09:07 PM
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There's two different versions as seen here... one has a brush finish. Just the standard one w/o the brush finish I assume?

Used as a 'Backer' I don't think it matters, but you cannot go wrong with the standard "Matte".

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post #11 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 09:59 PM - Thread Starter
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There's two different versions as seen here... one has a brush finish. Just the standard one w/o the brush finish I assume?

Used as a 'Backer' I don't think it matters, but you cannot go wrong with the standard "Matte".

Alright, I have 3yds of each in my cart. I saw elsewhere where people were talking about covering their wall with black fleece/felt or similar. Before I proceed with checkout is this a good source for something like that or would I be better of sourcing a local fabric store like Joanne Fabrics or similar? I was thinking of doing a 3" border but have considered the entire wall method. I guess a lot of that decision depends on cost of materials. What is it people use for this and is it on this SpandexWorld site as well?

Jer

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post #12 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 10:13 PM
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So taking all of that into considering, assuming I'm reading your posts right, it's your opinion that the silver moleskin surface with the white millskin underneath will be the best for my Pro8200 and a 128" screen in a light-controlled room, right?


Shooting that PJ in torch mode and trying to decide if you want to go with gray or white is not very meaningful.

Run your PJ in its most accurate setting (if you don't know what that is, you can check the Pro 8200 thread). Than try to project it on a white (or gray) screen, whatever you have available and see if the color accuracy and brightness meet your needs.

Only you can decide which screen is best for you. Deeper color, better blacks, or higher brightness.
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post #13 of 39 Old 11-23-2012, 10:23 PM - Thread Starter
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So taking all of that into considering, assuming I'm reading your posts right, it's your opinion that the silver moleskin surface with the white millskin underneath will be the best for my Pro8200 and a 128" screen in a light-controlled room, right?


Shooting that PJ in torch mode and trying to decide if you want to go with gray or white is not very meaningful.

Run your PJ in its most accurate setting (if you don't know what that is, you can check the Pro 8200 thread). Than try to project it on a white (or gray) screen, whatever you have available and see if the color accuracy and brightness meet your needs.

Only you can decide which screen is best for you. Deeper color, better blacks, or higher brightness.

I'm not in torch mode. I already have used settings that others have posted and will run 100hrs and then calibrate it properly. My question to MM specifically was what he thought based on his experience of the projector in question since he seems to have plenty of experience to lend. I'm just trying to confirm that he thinks this will be a suitable material list that will get me in the realm of a quality picture with the screen materials matched to this model projector.

Jer

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post #14 of 39 Old 11-24-2012, 07:29 AM
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Alright, I have 3yds of each in my cart. I saw elsewhere where people were talking about covering their wall with black fleece/felt or similar. Before I proceed with checkout is this a good source for something like that or would I be better of sourcing a local fabric store like Joanne Fabrics or similar? I was thinking of doing a 3" border but have considered the entire wall method. I guess a lot of that decision depends on cost of materials. What is it people use for this and is it on this SpandexWorld site as well?

I hope you didn't hit "Buy" yet as far as anything "Black"

http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Triple-Velvet/681/264

Why do people post up just after I go to bed ? (...I do that occasionally....) I wake up feeling so guilty.


BTW, Smokars wasn't dispensing anything but basically good advice, as it applies to most anyone in such a situation. However I've seen that over the years, the majority of DIY'ers do not want to experiment or judge things by Trial & Error. By the time they have made a decision to go forward with "The Big Picture", they are anxious to get that big image up and looking as good as possible.

Under that circumstance, having a few people around with some experience can help make the whole ordeal less of....well, an ordeal. One thing that has come out pretty quickly of this recent rush to embrace Spandex is that there have been a few who have indeed go to the effort to define what is Good / Better / and hopefully the Best as far a the few applicable types of Spandex.

.....and the Screen Tight digamafloppy? That alone has taken the assurance of being able to effect a easy construction to the kind of level that any DIY'er loves to embrace.

As far as the advice I most recently pro-offered, it's based on a few years of pretty basic experience, as well as a degree of valid assumption as to what a PJ such as the 8200 is capable of when splashing any surface that is at or under 1.0 gain. So I'm pretty confident you'll have no issues.

Now bear this last thing in mind. The Screen Wall is seldom an issue as far as determining contrast based performance as far as it reflects on....reflections. The light that bounces off the Screen cannot do an about face, 180 degree turn and hit the Screen Wall. Having the entire Screen Wall be blacked out is more a case of creating a disembodied, floating screen appearance. It's the Ceiling, Sidewalls, and even the Floor that should be addressed. Concentrate on the Ceiling, as it presents the most area available for reflection, and is usually the closest surface in any case. Side Walls can also be troublesome, but their reflections usually affect only the extreme sides of the image...while the Ceiling (...or Floor...) can spread reflected light back across a maximum of Screen surface area.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #15 of 39 Old 11-24-2012, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Nope, I haven't yet hit the buy button. Being as it was a Friday night I saw no rush to order as it won't go out until Monday anyway. Being as the link you sent is to another website I can go ahead & order though. I was mainly trying to avoid paying shipping twice but seeing as how I won't be getting the black fabric from the same site it doesn't really matter.

As far as testing goes I'm not in a huge hurry but I don't want to waste money on materials that I end up not using since I have no other use for them. I just want to pick the minds of those on the site with experience hoping to get it right the first time. Seems there's enough experience with this DIY application specifically that this should be possible.

Jer

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post #16 of 39 Old 11-24-2012, 10:12 AM
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Should be. One would think, nay...hope so. tongue.gif

But despite the sudden wealth of individuals attempting Spandex screens, in fact it's a relatively new approach.

Well....maybe not so "New" as much as now it's being qualified and quantified to the point more people are placing their DIY hopes on the application. Pretty much a case where assumption combined with known cause-to-effect has led to it being suggested as a viable alternative to Painting a solid material and/or the use of Mfg AT material. The latter perhaps most of all due to the exorbitant difference in price between Spandex and AT material, as well as Spandex's markedly less tendency to produce the dreaded "Morie' patterning many if not most all AT screens can suffer from.

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post #17 of 39 Old 11-24-2012, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Should be. One would think, nay...hope so. tongue.gif

But despite the sudden wealth of individuals attempting Spandex screens, in fact it's a relatively new approach.

Well....maybe not so "New" as much as now it's being qualified and quantified to the point more people are placing their DIY hopes on the application. Pretty much a case where assumption combined with known cause-to-effect has led to it being suggested as a viable alternative to Painting a solid material and/or the use of Mfg AT material. The latter perhaps most of all due to the exorbitant difference in price between Spandex and AT material, as well as Spandex's markedly less tendency to produce the dreaded "Morie' patterning many if not most all AT screens can suffer from.

Another dumb question but what does AT stand for? I've seen it mentioned but you can imagine how helpful a search for 'at' proves to be.

Jer

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post #18 of 39 Old 11-24-2012, 03:19 PM
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Another dumb question but what does AT stand for? I've seen it mentioned but you can imagine how helpful a search for 'at' proves to be.

"AT" = Acoustically Transparent ie: A Cloth-like Material whose surface can reflect enough light to serve as a Projector Screen, but whose structural composition and "passive resonance transfer properties " do very little to hinder the passage of sound through said material.

That being said, there exists a wide disparity in what some Mfg of AT Screen materials consider "acoustically transparent" enough to latch onto that claim. But no matter what else is said, the cost of such Mfg-to-Purpose materials should allow for a non-compromise result.

T'aint so.

Spandex.
A low density, tightly woven Elastane material, that can retain a disproportionate amount of it's original surface area while undergoing 2-4 directional stretching of up to 40% -50%

When stretched, the surface loses density, but not surface area. Thus, sound waves can pass more easily through such openings and low density obstructions without resonant transfer reacting to and creating frequency. attenuation, distortion, and adverse frequency coloration

All the things that Spandex can do so well....and do so with no more "Visual" restrictions than any other Mfg AT Material, certainly provides the incentive for anyone having considered a Semi-to-OMG priced AT Screen to consider lowly Spandex @ $12 yrd.

And for any DIY'er needing a Portable / Hanging Screen, and having considered a Blackout Cloth Screen, Spandex offers a easier, lighter and effective Screen application. Especially for 2.35:1 Screens, whose longer axis is difficult to maintain at "square" of undo stretching effort is needed to effect a smooth surface. Spandex requires less than half the "pull effort" Blackout cloth does.

I've said it before and will continue to say so....

For anyone with enough Lumen output (1600+) and the need for a lightweight, movable screen, or specifically an Acoustically Transparent (AT) Screen, (...or both...) Spandex can suit most such instances well.

....................................but Solid Screens Rule as far as providing the ultimate in Visual ac-clarity.

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post #19 of 39 Old 11-25-2012, 07:05 AM
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....................................but Solid Screens Rule as far as providing the ultimate in Visual ac-clarity.

Been following ur efforts for the last couple of months and a big fan of urs. Am a first time PJ owner, just got my Epson 3020 last week. Was intending to setup a Spandex screen as I thought it would be having ALMOST the picture quality of a branded, solid screen. Now, the above conclusive comment of urs have confused me. In ur experience, how well would a Spandex screen stack up against a solid screen of comparable price range ? Like say,a 50 percent reduction in outright quality?

Regards
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post #20 of 39 Old 11-25-2012, 10:41 AM
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Been following ur efforts for the last couple of months and a big fan of urs. Am a first time PJ owner, just got my Epson 3020 last week. Was intending to setup a Spandex screen as I thought it would be having ALMOST the picture quality of a branded, solid screen. Now, the above conclusive comment of urs have confused me. In ur experience, how well would a Spandex screen stack up against a solid screen of comparable price range ? Like say,a 50 percent reduction in outright quality?
Regards
RB

wow. A fan eh? Guess next thing I'll be needing is a Club.(...for someone to smack me over the Head with if I get too arrogant, no doubt. biggrin.gif ) Really though, thanks for the compliment as it is intended.

Let me try to make my previous comments more clear, and then also add some even more definitive comments as to comparable quality.

1. Any Reflective cloth that is also porous enough to let sound pass through unobstructed (ie: inaudible changes ) is to be considered "Acoustically Transparent".
2. Those who wish to have speakers placed / concealed behind a Screen "REQUIRE" a Screen that is made specifically to be "Acoustically Transparent".
3. Due to their needed "Aural Porosity", "Acoustically Transparent". Screens have less reflective surface to receive / reflect projected light, and all light not reflected is passed through.
4. Directly related to no.#3....... "Acoustically Transparent". Screens habitually have gain levels of under 1.0.
5. Mfg. "Acoustically Transparent". Screens that have positive gain (...the most expensive kind...) often exhibit weave /perforation characteristics showing the difference between the higher gain solid surface and the open areas between the weave /perforations. During bright panning sequences, this often is visible on the screen as something known as "Morie".
6. The less "open" a surface is, the more area of reflectivity it possess. But usually this means the surface is decidedly "Less Acoustically Transparent".
7. Spandex has a tighter weave / (more but smaller openings) than any Mfg. "Acoustically Transparent". Screen, however the nature of Spandex's composition makes it a much LESS dense a Material than any Mfg "Acoustically Transparent". material.
8. No.#7 allows Spandex to due the job of virtually any Mfg "Acoustically Transparent". material regardless of expense, and do so at / for less than 1/3 the material cost.
9. Spandex however is not a solid reflective surface, so it too must suffer a varying degree of light lost through pass-through absorption.
10. It is accepted practice to back Spandex (...and Mfg. "Acoustically Transparent" Screens as well...) with either light or dark "Acoustically Transparent" Cloth to hide the Speaker's outline from absorbed Light.
11. If a lighter Cloth is used for backing the less gain is lost due to reclamation and reflection back through the openings of the Weave / Perforations
12. If a darker Cloth is used for backing, the the openings that allow light to pass through can also direct reflected (...but attenuated...) light to return to add contrast.

Summary:

When added contrast is the goal with a "Acoustically Transparent". Screen, it is usually effected by attenuation the PJ Lamp's output. between the light lost through surface absorption, and the reduction of lumen output, many "Acoustically Transparent" Screen applications suffer from a less than stellar image (...brightness-wise...) As a Rule, in the past most "Acoustically Transparent" Screen owners were also CRT owners, to whom Black Levels were never an issue. Nowadays, it's more probable that "Acoustically Transparent" Screen owners will have a preponderance of Lumen output, but less inherently deep Black levels. (...that's changing fast though...)

So now to directly address RedBull1985's question and concern about the potential Image Quality differences between a Spandex Screen and a Solid Screen. Since "Acoustic Transparency" is not an issue when comparing a Solid Screen surface to a Spandex surface, that issue is wholly moot.

If a End User needs to have a Lightweight, removable, hang-able Screen, Spandex has seemed to come around to fill a niche long held by the venerable Blackout Cloth Screen application. Blackout Cloth itself was / is a solid Cloth, but seldom came with a Gain factor of more than 1.0....and usually had only 0.85 gain. In truth, it was / is the necessity of constructing a considerably stout Frame to accommodate the tension needed to keep the heavy Blackout Cloth taunt, flat and wrinkle free that presented the most daunting challenge for any DIY'er. Both effort and cost wise.

But of course, a material like Blackout Cloth can be used as a very effective "Canvass' on which to apply virtually any DIY Screen paint applications, making it the virtual equivalent of a "Solid Screen"

Any Solid surface will have a more effective reflection index than a open weave cloth surface of the same color. Spandex's weave is very tight, but the threads themselves are very small, and when stretched, the openings between those Threads increase in size, allowing more light to pass through. Spandex can never have the degree of effective reflective surface area of a solid surface.

However, that same density and compactness of Spandex's weave becomes more than sufficient to reflect "ENOUGH" projected light if enough Lumen output is available. If said Spandex is made of a Gray / Silver color, then an added perceived increase in Contrast can be had. If the projector being used already possesses exemplary Contrast, Spandex will not detract from that potential, but rather augment it if such contrast is also accompanied with sufficient Lumen output.

Now then....how much better can a Solid Screen be than a spandex screen? And by what percentage?

Please keep in mind that my following comments are based on Conjecture, but conjecture that comes from experience. YMMVW.

A matte Silver Spandex Screen, (of any reasonable size) stretched properly and backed with White Spandex...and hit with a Epson 6010 / 6020 calibrated to that color surface, would under 95% of the population's eye, present a fabulous image that could not be picked apart except by that lousy 5%. biggrin.gif

A Solid Screen, painted that same color / shade of matte Gray determined to be of the same gain would fare no better, nor worse...excepting when viewed from under 12" distance, whereas one could see the Fabric's weave, but fail to see any texture on a well sprayed Solid surface.

With RedBull 1985's 8200 in play, both the above statements retain complete validity as well.

The difference would start to become more noticeable if a Gray / Silver Screen paint applied onto a solid surface had significantly more gain (1.1 to 1.4 gain). The differences would also be noted of the Projector's Lumen output fell significantly, with that being more so the case with the Spandex Screen. Both the above pertain to Foot Lambert of Reflected Brightness off the surface of the Screen.

And I'll state this as irrevocable fact.

If ANY DIY Screen app was a full 50% less effective than another, it would be a cold day on the surface of Betelgeuse that I would even bother to consider it worthy of this DIY Forum's time or space. Fortunately (...with the exception of those projecting onto their Tan / Mauve / Blue Walls rolleyes.gif ) there is almost no one who posts on here who is willing to even consider accepting such a low standard of performance. Expectations run high in DIY Screen making....and I and others such as I try our darnedest to keep those expectations....and results as lofty as possible.

So if you see any application listed on this Forum as being "Under discussion" or being attempted more than once, you can be sure it's at least 85% as effective as the best of 'em. Within the scope of that 15% difference lies a lot of personal choice and need. The Forum exists to help others determine exactly what choice is needed, or in lieu of that, suggest the next best possible choice...and so on.

But rest assured, if the quality potential of what someone says they "must" do falls too far, they'll know.....'cause we'll tell 'em so!
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post #21 of 39 Old 11-25-2012, 11:34 AM
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^^phew,that was one info-filled post mate.Cheers for the quick response.(BTW, mine is a 3020 and not an 8200 smile.gif )

All of my doubts are cleared,for now at least haha.Am no videophile and as such, am pretty sure I fall into the 'not-so-lousy' 95%.I just wanted to be sure before going the Spandex route that I wasn't compromising a lot on the PQ front for the AT property, which, for me is only secondary to PQ.But, since the results are this close, I can now peacefully go down the DIY way.Really hoping my search for the Spandex gonna yield fruit and can find the stuff locally(South India).

Cheers and Regards
RB
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post #22 of 39 Old 11-27-2012, 08:55 AM
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RedBull, I just got my spandex screen done with a brand new Pro 8200 last weekend. I had initially wanted to do a 120" screen, but changed my mind as I was throwing the image up on the bare wall. I have about a 16' throw and the brightness diminishes greatly from 110" to 120". I strongly urge you test what yours looks like before you build your screen. I'm very happy with the 110 that I have now. I ended up using Moleskin Matte Gray over Silver Metallic Matte. I haven't had a chance to mess with the settings so I can post up some pics of the final.
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post #23 of 39 Old 11-27-2012, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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RedBull, I just got my spandex screen done with a brand new Pro 8200 last weekend. I had initially wanted to do a 120" screen, but changed my mind as I was throwing the image up on the bare wall. I have about a 16' throw and the brightness diminishes greatly from 110" to 120". I strongly urge you test what yours looks like before you build your screen. I'm very happy with the 110 that I have now. I ended up using Moleskin Matte Gray over Silver Metallic Matte. I haven't had a chance to mess with the settings so I can post up some pics of the final.

That's interested. I have materials on-hand and on the way for my screen and am planning a 128" screen. I'm doing the white backer so I wonder how much light this will help to bounce back which should increase the perceived brightness ever-so-slightly. I have the same projector so I'm a little concerned now that I may have bit off more than I can chew. I never would have guessed because my Pro8200 is ridiculously bright at the moment. I know it's brand new with a couple dozen hours on the lamp but I'm having to set the brightness under 20 just to be able to watch it. I also plan to mount my projector near the front of the throw for that size screen which is 13 feet. What is your lighting conditions? Have you considered moving it towards the front of the throw if you're physically able to to see if it helps?

Jer

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T and L brackets.

If you want to save money and frustration, and have wood glue and clamps at your disposal, forget the brackets. I used little scraps of wood backing at all four corners. Mitred the corners, slapped a 2 x 2" wood backing from the scraps I had (just chopped it up on the chop saw) and clamped her up. In the morning the fram was solid as a rock. I can take some pics if you're interested.

I partly wasted this, because now the screen will "float" off the wall by 1/2". Speakers will be DIY SEOS in-wall speakers and wanted a full 1" clearance. Now I have it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyhelling View Post

T and L brackets.

If you want to save money and frustration, and have wood glue and clamps at your disposal, forget the brackets. I used little scraps of wood backing at all four corners. Mitred the corners, slapped a 2 x 2" wood backing from the scraps I had (just chopped it up on the chop saw) and clamped her up. In the morning the fram was solid as a rock. I can take some pics if you're interested.

I partly wasted this, because now the screen will "float" off the wall by 1/2". Speakers will be DIY SEOS in-wall speakers and wanted a full 1" clearance. Now I have it.

I don't have clamps that will reach 112" so I'm just going to use brackets & screws. I may also add glue for strength bit don't think it's necessary. What do you mean by frustrating using brackets.

Jer

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post #26 of 39 Old 11-27-2012, 11:12 AM
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You only need a clamp that can reach 1". I'll post a pic later.
Quote:
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What do you mean by frustrating using brackets.

Drilling all those screws. For my method, you just line up the corners, put a square on it. Slap the backer on. Clamp it. Walk away. And it's way stronger, I'm sure.
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post #27 of 39 Old 11-28-2012, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyhelling View Post

That's interested. I have materials on-hand and on the way for my screen and am planning a 128" screen. I'm doing the white backer so I wonder how much light this will help to bounce back which should increase the perceived brightness ever-so-slightly. I have the same projector so I'm a little concerned now that I may have bit off more than I can chew. I never would have guessed because my Pro8200 is ridiculously bright at the moment. I know it's brand new with a couple dozen hours on the lamp but I'm having to set the brightness under 20 just to be able to watch it. I also plan to mount my projector near the front of the throw for that size screen which is 13 feet. What is your lighting conditions? Have you considered moving it towards the front of the throw if you're physically able to to see if it helps?

I can't move it much close because of a ceiling fan in the room, plus when it comes down to it a 110" really fits my room better than a 120". I might have 10 hours on my lamp and I have it on the stock theater setting, I don't recall what brightness that is. Whenever I have tried the calibrations settings from the 8200 calibration thread, the picture looks like crap, I'm guessing I need to wait for it to settle down a little bit before I try those.

I feel what tux says about the screws, between the brackets and the screen tight ( I used the wide ones) I used about 120 screws. Thank god for quick change bits. If you use hard wood like I did, you will want to pre-drill all of them to avoid cracking.
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post #28 of 39 Old 11-28-2012, 09:03 AM
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Hard to make out, but here's a shot.

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post #29 of 39 Old 11-28-2012, 09:18 AM
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That does sound and look much easier and I agree it is stronger but how does it effect pulling spandex around it? Does it leave a odd crease in the corner? Also if you were going to use screen tight I imagine in the corners you would have to staple it?
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post #30 of 39 Old 11-28-2012, 09:42 AM
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Ya, I didn't use the the screen tight strips or what ever they are. I pulled and stapled. Then hot glue gunned it just to be sure, even though the staples were more than adequate. No weired creases at the corner. Still need to pull another layer of spandex over it, then I'll trim off any excess.

I built this frame in about 15 minutes with less than $10 of materials and it's very strong. Just not very pretty from behind, but I don't care.

I also just bought my spandex from Joanne's for 9.99 a yard. They don't have silver though. So I only bought one layer. Oh and they'll sell 2.5 yards so you don't have to buy a whole 3 yards. I'm into this for less than $40, but still need another layer.

I'll do some acoustic measurements with HolmImpulse once I have it all figured to see how AT the Joanne's stuff is.
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