Budget minded DIYer needs haaaalp! - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 21 Old 12-10-2012, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
So during my hours upon hours of lurking the forum I think I have only further confused myself on the choices for what I should use for my screen. Before I go any further on my thoughts I will answer some questions I found in another thread.

•Will it be for a dedicated Theater, or Family Room use?
Not a dedicated home theater but more of a media/game room. It will only be used for movie watching, gaming(Wii), and sports. Not ever day TV
•Will lighting be controlled, directed, or absent altogether during viewing?
Lighting will be somewhat controlled but ambient light could be an issue.

•What color are the Walls, and the Ceiling?
Walls behind PJ is a dark purple, on sides are a dark gray, ceiling is still build tan but may end up being painted.

•Where (how far from the screen) will you sit?
About 12' can move back some but don't want to more than about 2-3 feet

•What will the majority of your viewed content consist of?
It will only be used for movie watching, gaming(Wii), and sports. Not ever day TV

•How big is your room? Dimensions?
17' x 23' 23' is the projecting length, looking at a throw of between 11-13' as athe max for my PJ

•How big of a Screen would you like?
would like 120"

•Are you rollin' in dough...or just as cheap as most all of us?
I'm cheap for sure

Projector EPSON 705HD

Pictures can be seen at the link below.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1444378/joker-room-build-thread


I was originally thinking a spandex screen just because it would be easy to create. I screened my entire back porch using the screen tight system and I am very familiar with it. However, I don't have a need for an AT screen. I would like to maximize the good attributes of my PJ and minimize the bad.

So from what I have read, the PJ is extremely bright but has contrast issues. Should that point me in the direction of a gray screen particularly when ambient light could be an issue?
I have begun looking into substrates and painting for that reason above. I called around to the sing shops in my area and Sintra at the 6mm 5’x10’ size is hard to come by.
I have just started exploring using Wilsonart Laminate for a screen. Would my PJ be to bright for use with Wilsonart and cause hot spotting?
Like the title says.

HAAAALP ME!
rschuler313 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 21 Old 12-10-2012, 04:43 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I forgot to add....


PLEASE
rschuler313 is offline  
post #3 of 21 Old 12-10-2012, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I'm thinking gray for sure. I'm just exploring the easiest, most cost effective, and best picture quality solution. Of course it's all give take. I'm leaning towards spandex more an more because of the drawbacks I read about solid substrates.
rschuler313 is offline  
post #4 of 21 Old 12-10-2012, 09:08 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,945
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Liked: 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by rschuler313 View Post

I'm thinking gray for sure. I'm just exploring the easiest, most cost effective, and best picture quality solution. Of course it's all give take. I'm leaning towards spandex more an more because of the drawbacks I read about solid substrates.

And what would those be exactly?

You are not going to match up all your stated criteria using Spandex. There is simply too much flexibility and inherent potential in creating exactly what would be most ideal by using a coating on a solid surface (...or impermeable cloth...)

Spandex is a great solution for those who specifically need it's specialist properties. However it has it's own limitations and potential drawbacks as well so care must be taken in the decision making process.

BTW, I made a couple inquiries for you about the Sintra...if your at all still interested.

Here's one in your Home town:

Laird Plastics
2200 denton dr #103
Austin, TX 78758.
Manager:Jerry Johanneck
Phone:800-243-4050
512-837-2710.

5' x 10' x 6mm Sintra OR Komotex (...ask aboit the latter....usually come in as being less expensive.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is online now  
post #5 of 21 Old 12-10-2012, 09:24 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I was mostly refering to the drawbacks of the 3 mm sintra. I made a dozen calls today and nobody including laird had 6mm thickness in. I will try back tomorrow, maybe I spoke to the wrong employee.
rschuler313 is offline  
post #6 of 21 Old 12-10-2012, 09:25 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I am still thinking about using a gray laminate as well, that would give me OTS utility with the potential to still paint later if needed.
rschuler313 is offline  
post #7 of 21 Old 12-11-2012, 02:01 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,945
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Liked: 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by rschuler313 View Post

I am still thinking about using a gray laminate as well, that would give me OTS utility with the potential to still paint later if needed.

Yes it would, and it's immediate (...or nearly so...) availability can work in your favor.. But it needs a very good Frame, careful mounting, and it's sheen might well present an issue for your PJ. As such,it's not wholly ideal as a OTS / Hang and Shoot option. Laminate started off being popular, but that waned as more members discovered it had more and more caveats that tagged along, and PJs got brighter, which served to accentuate it's hot spotting tendencies. .

The only other supplier of Sintra / Kometex is Piedmont, with5' x 10' x 6mm inventory in New Orleans and El Paso

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is online now  
post #8 of 21 Old 12-11-2012, 03:26 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Would 3mm Sinatra be an option. I would probably need to build a good frame for that.
rschuler313 is offline  
post #9 of 21 Old 12-11-2012, 05:03 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
So after a caffeine fueled Brigade Staff Duty Officer shift I am once again swinging back towards laminate as my substrate.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1371617/the-austin-home-theater/270 Aaustin's method of using contact cement and mounting to 3/16" hardboad seems like great solution for my needs.

Now i'm contemplating what color and type to get. Back into the laminate thread. Please feel free to interject with any comments or ideas at any times.
rschuler313 is offline  
post #10 of 21 Old 12-11-2012, 06:09 AM
AVS Special Member
 
smokarz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Hartford, CT USA
Posts: 3,261
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 63
hmm...so my post disappeared? was it because i didn't reccommend the 'appropriate' paint mixes? rolleyes.gif

rschuler313,

i recently finished a spandex build. it was easy/quick to put together for about $100.

i had a good experience in the past with white laminate. but given your situations, the gray laminate seems like the proper choice.

if wanting to paint, either a SW Unique Gray or SW tinted Snowfield would do the job (both are gray).

it looks like you have a good handle on what you need to do.

good luck with your project.
smokarz is online now  
post #11 of 21 Old 12-11-2012, 06:12 AM
AVS Special Member
 
smokarz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Hartford, CT USA
Posts: 3,261
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by rschuler313 View Post

So after a caffeine fueled Brigade Staff Duty Officer shift I am once again swinging back towards laminate as my substrate.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1371617/the-austin-home-theater/270 Aaustin's method of using contact cement and mounting to 3/16" hardboad seems like great solution for my needs.
Now i'm contemplating what color and type to get. Back into the laminate thread. Please feel free to interject with any comments or ideas at any times.


You can find more details over at the HTS about the different laminate types/colors. They actually measured the stuff over there you get a better understaning of what you're dealing with.
smokarz is online now  
post #12 of 21 Old 12-11-2012, 07:03 AM
Newbie
 
brhaugen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
From reading your initial post...we have 2 things in common: being cheap and having a 705hd projector. That being said, I feel compelled to throw in my $0.02. smile.gif

I recently finished building a 110" spandex screen. As smokarz stated above, it was very easy to work with. I used the moleskin matte gray over the moleskin matte white. Take it for what it's worth as I am far from a videophile, but I am very happy with the results. When researching projectors, one of the biggest complaints of the 705hd was the black levels. With the gray over white spandex, the blacks seem more than acceptable to me. I don't have a lot of experience with other projectors or screens, so it's possible I don't know what I'm missing. I went into the spandex build with the understanding that if I wasn't happy I would try something different, but for now I'm going to keep it just the way it is.
brhaugen is offline  
post #13 of 21 Old 12-16-2012, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11

Houston we have a problem!

So when we were brining the screen upstairs from the garage it snapped. No bueno.



My first reaction was extreme disgust for allowing that to happen. However, no I need to move on from this issue.

So my whole reasoning for using the laminate was because I lacked a smooth surface to begin with. After having it up I have confirmed that the Fashion Gray color works great for my conditions.

What are my options going forward?

1. Get another piece of laminate.
This sounds terrible in my opinion. The laminate is not very easy to work with from the get go. It is brittle as can be.

2. Wilsonart makes a color matched caulk. Has anyone tried using this for repairs?

3. Skim coat the whole screen with joint compound/plaster, then paint in a color similar to fashion grey.

What do the DIY experts here say?
rschuler313 is offline  
post #14 of 21 Old 12-16-2012, 01:23 PM
Member
 
jwh92020's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 123
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 14
I don't think you can salvage the screen with option 1 or 2. Option 3 might work if the frame is made solid enough not to flex again and the surface is prepared right to hold the mud, but it will probably be more work that it's worth. How did you build the frame and attach the laminate in the first place? I work with laminate on a regular basis as I remodel kitchens for a living. If you decide to try the laminate again, build a frame of 1 x 4 (see EpicVegas' post for his fabric screen) then attach a piece (if you are going 120" you may need 2) of 5mm luan underlayment to the frame, then attach laminate to the underlayment with contact cement. Yes, it's a bit more work and a few more $, but your screen won't flex and crack. If you're going to skim, why not get a 5" x 10' sheet of drywall? Cut it to size, attach to screen wall & skim away.
jwh92020 is offline  
post #15 of 21 Old 12-16-2012, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I used contact cement and attached it to hardboard. The hardboard came in 4'x8' sections. The split is right at the joint where the two pieces of hardboard I used came together. This really wasn't a result of laminate or the mounting method. It was simply because I tried to turn the 90 degree corner at the top of the stairs with the screen. The screen basically sheered from the torque. After mounting the two broken peices I can tell you that it is very solid. There is no bowing at all.
rschuler313 is offline  
post #16 of 21 Old 12-16-2012, 03:14 PM
Member
 
jwh92020's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 123
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 14
If you're happy with that mounting method and want to re-try the laminate, I would suggest clamping some wood at the top & bottom of the screen across the joint of the 2 pieces. That will keep the joint from flexing as you move it. You could glue another piece of laminate to your existing screen. If the screen is mounted, just rough up the surface of the laminate (50 grit sandpaper), wipe of the dust and glue it. When you attach the new laminate, be sure you have another set of hands and put some strips of dry (no glue residue) card board over the piece on the wall to prevent premature stickage. I have done a lot of large, vertical surfaces (ie - elevator walls, retail counter fronts) and that is how we do them. If you are putting a border around the screen, you have a little margin of error left or right, up or down, but if it sticks before you are ready for it and you end up with a bubble, you will not be a happy camper. If you need anymore detailed info, PM me. I'll be glad to help.
jwh92020 is offline  
post #17 of 21 Old 12-17-2012, 08:14 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,945
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Liked: 224
rschuler313

I responded to your post on another thread, asking how you managed to break the WA-DW and now it's very obvious. The joint in the hardboard acted like a "Scored line" and transferred stress to the WA-DW.
When one uses sectional-ized hardboard, one ALWAYS must overlap any joint. That is why my posted illustrations of building such "Backer-Boards" show that they bust be "Dual Layered" in construction.

Use the Caulk, Prime as instructed, skim, sand, and then paint.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is online now  
post #18 of 21 Old 12-19-2012, 06:02 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
All would have been good if I didn't have the 90 degree turn to negotiate. I won't be able to try the seamfil until after the holidays. But, I will report back when I do.
rschuler313 is offline  
post #19 of 21 Old 12-19-2012, 08:35 AM
Member
 
johngraz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 52
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Good luck. Having worked in a cabinet and counter top factory for a few years, I have have seen a fair share of sheets of laminate break. its why I eliminated it quickly when I was deciding on a DYI screen. Sorry it happened to you, I can't say I am surprised though, esp since it was already mounted and had a natural breaking point. It is very brittle once it hits that point. Let us know how the seam works out, it shouldn't be too bad and should turn out great. FWIW Using dry strips of wood between the laminate and substrate (particle board) and sliding the strips out out as you lay the laminate down is how we did it at the factory. Once it sticks, you are stuck....
johngraz is offline  
post #20 of 21 Old 01-09-2013, 04:30 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
rschuler313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Well after living with the repair for a bit I can say that it did not work out as intended. I am certainly going to have to either add another layer of new laminate or skim and paint. The crack itself is not as much noticable right now, however the area around it that was wiped and wiped with solvent and had residual seamfil looks "dirty".

If I were to do this again I would tape both sides of the seam off with painters tape as close to the seam as I could. I debated doing this, none of the instructions showed this, or the tutorial videos. However, I have seen many laminate installers and even granite installers do this when they fill seams. I regret not doing this.
rschuler313 is offline  
post #21 of 21 Old 01-09-2013, 07:22 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 14,945
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Liked: 224
Skim and sand, then paint. It's the quickest, best, and least expensive solution.

I hope you decide to follow that advice.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
MississippiMan is online now  
Reply DIY Screen Section

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off