Screen for Optoma HD33 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-01-2013, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Brand new to the forum. I have been reading until my eyes are about to pop out. The more I read, the more confused I seem to get. I bought the Optoma HD33 for my kids' Xmas. Now, needing a screen. I would like to go with some type of fabric but not sure after reading so much. This projector does 3D -- so would like to get a material that will handle the 3D well. However, most movie watching will be 2D. The room is totally dark. It does have a drop ceiling with white ceiling tiles. We do plan on putting up some black cloth with magnets on the ceiling grid to help. I'm wanting to go with a 120" to 125" diagonal screen. Any help figuring this out would be most appreciated.
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-01-2013, 02:15 PM
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The only Fabric that will be serviceable would be Blackout Cloth that is painted with a High Gain / High Contrast coating.

............or a solid substrate with ditto.

Your screen size, and the desire to view 3D combine with your Pj's lumen output level to limit you to surfaces that optimize every available lumen, so porous cloth like Spandex is the wrong direction to take.

If you place the HD33 at 13' 9" and stay at 120" diagonal, a screen surface that is light Gray and possesses a gain of at least 1.2 will deliver 22 foot lambert off the screen. In 3D mode that would drop to 13-14 fl. That would be the very minimum allowable if such 3D content was watched in a completely controlled (ie: totally dark) situation. You would still feel the image was dynamic...not dull.

The Ceiling treatment is very wise. That will help a lot. But at this conjecture some real thinking needs to be undertaken as to what "kind" of screen surface you really need.

On Solids, brightness and contrast enhancement can be made to be / is almost a given. "Vinyl Coated" Blackout Cloth can be brought up to snuff with the proper sprayed coating. Porous Cloth....not so much. frown.gif


Be sure to be certain about all the PJ mounting considerations of the HD33 (Lens / Image offset)

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-01-2013, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The only Fabric that will be serviceable would be Blackout Cloth that is painted with a High Gain / High Contrast coating.
............or a solid substrate with ditto.
Your screen size, and the desire to view 3D combine with your Pj's lumen output level to limit you to surfaces that optimize every available lumen, so porous cloth like Spandex is the wrong direction to take.
If you place the HD33 at 13' 9" and stay at 120" diagonal, a screen surface that is light Gray and possesses a gain of at least 1.2 will deliver 22 foot lambert off the screen. In 3D mode that would drop to 13-14 fl. That would be the very minimum allowable if such 3D content was watched in a completely controlled (ie: totally dark) situation. You would still feel the image was dynamic...not dull.
The Ceiling treatment is very wise. That will help a lot. But at this conjecture some real thinking needs to be undertaken as to what "kind" of screen surface you really need.
On Solids, brightness and contrast enhancement can be made to be / is almost a given. "Vinyl Coated" Blackout Cloth can be brought up to snuff with the proper sprayed coating. Porous Cloth....not so much. frown.gif
Be sure to be certain about all the PJ mounting considerations of the HD33 (Lens / Image offset)

Thanks so much! Yes, I was concerned about the spandex material with 3D content. Let me see if I understand what you are saying about your recommendation: Go with a vinyl blackout fabric that is a light gray?? You think this would be better than a matte white in the same fabric??? Now, when you say "painted with a high gain" are you saying to paint the vinyl fabric? If so, then why difference would it make what color the vinyl is?

I noticed you live in Byhalia, MS. I used to live in Olive Branch and graduated from high school there. My parents still live there. I have been gone for nearly 20 years. It is amazing how much the place has grown.
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-01-2013, 06:26 PM
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When we reference BOC, we always are referring to "White" BOC, never Gray.

Yes...people often spray a better coating onto BOC. Some even attempt to Roll...and actually accomplish good results. You don't read much of that anymore though since spraying has become so inexpensive.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-01-2013, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

When we reference BOC, we always are referring to "White" BOC, never Gray.
Yes...people often spray a better coating onto BOC. Some even attempt to Roll...and actually accomplish good results. You don't read much of that anymore though since spraying has become so inexpensive.

If I decide to go this route, how much money am I looking at? And, what type, brand of paint is best to spray on the BOC? Could it be possible that buying a screen is worth it instead of building one?
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 06:38 AM
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If I decide to go this route, how much money am I looking at?

With BOC and a Frame w/Trim you'll be in the $100.00+ range w/o paint A "rollable" paint solution w/ rolling materials will add another $80.00

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And, what type, brand of paint is best to spray on the BOC?

Much depends upon your needs. At 120" diagonal and wanting good 3D rendering, you need to consider RS-MaxxMudd LL
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Could it be possible that buying a screen is worth it instead of building one?

Only when you are willing to spend more for the ability to do less work and are willing to settle for a lessor level performance. Any"Fixed" Mfg Screen that achieves or surpasses the performance of a comparable DIY offering will be at least 5x to 10x as much money, with the really high performance varieties as much as 20x the cost.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

With BOC and a Frame w/Trim you'll be in the $100.00+ range w/o paint A "rollable" paint solution w/ rolling materials will add another $80.00
Much depends upon your needs. At 120" diagonal and wanting good 3D rendering, you need to consider RS-MaxxMudd LL
Only when you are willing to spend more for the ability to do less work and are willing to settle for a lessor level performance.

Thanks again. Definitely don't want a lesser level of performance. I just don't want to spend an arm and a leg on building something when I can go out and buy something just as good.
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 06:59 AM
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It won't be "a arm and a leg" cost-wise as much as you'll have to contribute those appendages to the effort....work wise.

You'll still have them to use afterwards....I promise. wink.gif

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

It won't be "a arm and a leg" cost-wise as much as you'll have to contribute those appendages to the effort....work wise.
You'll still have them to use afterwards....I promise. wink.gif

HA! Satisfaction of a job well done, I know biggrin.gif And, I will still have all my limbs in tack, although it may not feel like it after I look at my bank account eek.gif

I found several threads on the paint; I have a lot of homework to do now...

Thanks again!!
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Is the RX-MaxxMudd a paint that can bought in stores or is it a homemade mixture of several different paints? And, from what I have read, there seems to be different kinds of RX paints.
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 03:32 PM
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Is the RX-MaxxMudd a paint that can bought in stores or is it a homemade mixture of several different paints? And, from what I have read, there seems to be different kinds of RX paints.

It is a compilation of a few various components (read the RS-MM thread)

You would want the "LL" (Low Lumen" type) because it suits your purpose very well.

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post #12 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 03:40 PM - Thread Starter
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It is a compilation of a few various components (read the RS-MM thread)
You would want the "LL" (Low Lumen" type) because it suits your purpose very well.

Awesome. Yes, I've been reading the ton of info. on this topic. A lot to get through. It can be confusing for sure. I did see the ingredients list for the different paint types. I'm assuming that everything is up to date. Is this what you are referring to: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1139061/rs-maxxmudd-mix-the-official
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 07:16 PM
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Awesome. Yes, I've been reading the ton of info. on this topic. A lot to get through. It can be confusing for sure. I did see the ingredients list for the different paint types. I'm assuming that everything is up to date. Is this what you are referring to: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1139061/rs-maxxmudd-mix-the-official

Yes. it is.

Are you a candidate for spraying at all?

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post #14 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes. it is.
Are you a candidate for spraying at all?

Of course I can spray, if I had a sprayer. Guess I need to buy one.
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post #15 of 17 Old 01-02-2013, 10:41 PM
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Of course I can spray, if I had a sprayer. Guess I need to buy one.

http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Graco-HV2900-Paint-Station/dp/B005QQ0AFS

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post #16 of 17 Old 01-03-2013, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link. Look forward to doing the project.
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post #17 of 17 Old 01-03-2013, 07:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Found this screen. It has a gain of 1.5. In a totally dark room, I would like to believe this screen would serve me well in 3D and especially in 2D...Thoughts...

http://www.amazon.com/Da-Lite-Manual-Ceiling-Projection-Screen/dp/B00028ECD6/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1357267791&sr=8-18&keywords=120%22+high+gain+projector+screen
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