Need some advise on doing a " White Fusion" screen - AVS Forum
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey, Haven't been on a bit, but need some help. So, a while back i did a Silver Fire screen but due to the fact that my gun messed up during spraying it came out not so great and wound up with some hot spotting and a bumpy screen surface that was beyond repair. Basically it was a bad screen for my first go at it due to the gun. The gun is working now so I want to do another screen but don't want to go into the cost of having to buy all the paints again for the silver fire screen and thought about trying out a " White Fusion" screen.
I know there is the stander light fusion screen that is often done here with a Mirror that has Silver Fire sprayed on it but I also know there is also a white fusion you can do that I've read in other threads. Im thinking I would try the white fusion with a TWH(Thrifty White Hardwood) as the backing seeing that is has that reflective surface already on it but can i do a GOOD white fusion screen with just a TWH. I know you need some space in between to fill up? Do you need the 1/8 plexiglass to still go on top of the TWH?? Is there a better backing to use then the TWH?? I want to try some smaller samples out first using some smaller pieces of TWH and/or plexiglass first to see if it's worth the go compared to my current screen. Anyway, I need some advise on this subject as to what would be the best and least inexpensive to use for this project. I have the No name paint sprayer by the way as well.
When doing a white fusion is it best to have my main top coat as a white paint or can i do it with a neutral grey paint to help with the contrast better. Thanks for any help.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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2 day up and no help or info. I know there is someone out there who is anxious to give some help on this, lol. Need to know where i can begin on this...
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:32 PM
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White Fusion simply means using the TWH instead of an acrylic mirror. You still spray it with Silver Fire.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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is there a One paint option that i can use to spray over the TWH with??? Some paint that can be mixed with water or what not to make it thin to use as a top coat??
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

is there a One paint option that i can use to spray over the TWH with??? Some paint that can be mixed with water or what not to make it thin to use as a top coat??

Gosh...would that it be true.

Well, in many ways it is, but only to the extent that a Gray lightly painted over a bright white will perform better than it would painted over a dull shade of off-white. But the real ability to take full advantage of a "Fusion" effect lies in the top coat having both "thinness" and a degree of translucency, the former being just thin enough to let enough light pass through while still reflecting enough to create a great image, while the latter aspect allows for attenuated collected light to return to fuse with the surface image in a subtle but appreciably beneficial manner...adding a slight "glow".

Water alone helps paint "Flow", but once it dries out of the paint, all your left with is a "solid" that will tend to simply reflect a "flat" image .

You can use any Flat, Neutral Gray to cover the TWH.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Gosh...would that it be true.

Well, in many ways it is, but only to the extent that a Gray lightly painted over a bright white will perform better than it would painted over a dull shade of off-white. But the real ability to take full advantage of a "Fusion" effect lies in the top coat having both "thinness" and a degree of translucency, the former being just thin enough to let enough light pass through while still reflecting enough to create a great image, while the latter aspect allows for attenuated collected light to return to fuse with the surface image in a subtle but appreciably beneficial manner...adding a slight "glow".

Water alone helps paint "Flow", but once it dries out of the paint, all your left with is a "solid" that will tend to simply reflect a "flat" image .

You can use any Flat, Neutral Gray to cover the TWH.

Basically what I'm trying to achieve is what i found, and read in this post:


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1359890/cant-get-much-better-than-this

This was a thread started in Sep of 2011 that you actually commented on MississippiMan where someone, by chance, happen to do a "WHITE" light fusion without realizing it. I'm wanting to replica what he did. Now, one difference that he did, was instead of using a grey top coat he used a water thinned out white top coat. What differences can one expect in using a grey top coat instead of a white top coat??
I know there are different DIY paint mixtures that have been done over the years in this forum.Some that i know of are Silver FIre, RS-MaxxMudd, and S-I-L-V-E-R. I can't spend as much in the paint area so i was wondering if something simple like S-I-L-V-E-R would be a thin enough paint mixture to use for a white fusion?? If there are certain advantages of using a White base top coat instead of a gray one, then what kind of a mixture could i come up with that would be a thin enough mix to help in this venture.?? I just need the right starting point to get me going in the right direction and i can let the experimenting begin. Also, I will be using my "No name" paint sprayer everyone uses on here instead of rolling most likely.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:13 AM
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S-I-L-V-E-R is a very thin mix, applied over the course of at least 7-8 thin sprayed applications, and yep...you bet...it's primarily designed around being sprayed upon a smooth, bright white surface, and having that surface play a part in the overall "picture".

However, I don't see the need for any experimenting....as the S-I-L-V-E-R application is very well proven and has been accomplished by many before over the span of several years.

It does come with some cautions.
  • The substrate must be absolutely smooth
  • The Spray Gun must be set up correctly to accept the watery-like mix
  • One must accept that S-I-L-V-E-R is not intended to be used in anything more than very controlled 'low" ambient light situations.

Other than the listed concerns above, S-I-L-V-E-R is really a fairly simple, and very inexpensive project to attempt.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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My room only has one window and Most of my movie watching, especially in 3d because of the Low lumens in 3d mode, is done at night. I need it as dark as possible for 3d viewing because factor the 3D lumen output plus the use of the shutter glasses, so the ambient light will only what comes from the projector. I am curious what paints are used for S-I-L-V-E-R since you can't find the Delta Cream Coat anymore??
One concern for me though is how much of the brightness will be hindered by the Dark Silvery color that S-I-L-V-E-R offers or is it more of a neutral grey, can't tell . It's tough for me on making sure i get the right top coat for my "white Fusion" because when i put my projector in 3D mode having the whites the "Whitest" Will help with the brightness, it seems to me. Will S-I-L-V-E-R be a good option for my purpose???
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

S-I-L-V-E-R is a very thin mix, applied over the course of at least 7-8 thin sprayed applications, and yep...you bet...it's primarily designed around being sprayed upon a smooth, bright white surface, and having that surface play a part in the overall "picture".

However, I don't see the need for any experimenting....as the S-I-L-V-E-R application is very well proven and has been accomplished by many before over the span of several years.

It does come with some cautions.
  • The substrate must be absolutely smooth
  • The Spray Gun must be set up correctly to accept the watery-like mix
  • One must accept that S-I-L-V-E-R is not intended to be used in anything more than very controlled 'low" ambient light situations.

Other than the listed concerns above, S-I-L-V-E-R is really a fairly simple, and very inexpensive project to attempt.

I just read a post in the S-I-L-V-E-R thread and some others where asking the same thing about active 3D and you replied positively saying that S-i-l-v-e-r or .RS-MaxxMudd was one of the best option for active 3D and the only thing need be concerned is sitting to close and seeing the graininess. That wont be an issue for me so it looks like s-i-l-v-e-r sounds like a good option. Thanks mississippiman.
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