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-   -   Planning for my new media room with a DIY SF screen (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/1457353-planning-my-new-media-room-diy-sf-screen.html)

mapmustang 02-09-2013 07:38 PM

I have read through the forums thoroughly over the last few weeks getting ideas for my media room. I will be closing on a new house next month and it will have a 26'x12' media room shown below.

I am planning to mount a 100" 16:9 screen over the windows, which are the only outside light.The projector will likely be a Sony HW50ES, JVC RS46, or a refurbished JVC RS55, depending on which I can get the best deal on. I will be painting the ceiling and the 2 short walls black, with the 2 long walls probably being gray and black carpet throughout. I will also be building a riser for a second row and a bar in the back for a third row and a place for people to eat. Since the room is long and thin, viewing cone isn't really an issue. It has 10' ceilings and throw distance will probably be 12'-0" or close to it. The room will usually be dark, but I imagine when people come over to watch football there will occasionally be light from the 4 dimmable sconce lights on the side walls.

.

A couple questions:
  • What color of SF 2.5 mix would you guys recommend?
  • I am planning to mount a sheet of sintra with a 2x4 frame similar to what MississippiMan did in his 110" example. Is there extra support or insulation needed behind the sintra since there will be a gap there for the window frame?
  • Did you guys pre-drill the holes for mounting the sintra to the 2x4s before it was mounted on the wall? It just seems like it would be difficult to keep everything square, level, and centered if you were having to hold the sintra in place.
  • I looked at the Graco sprayer which comes with a 2mm tip. I read that the 1.5mm tip is recommended. I looked at buying a smaller tip, but the ones listed online are in fractions of an inch instead of millimeters. Any chance somobody could give me a link to the correct one?


A big thanks to all the contributors on this forum, especially MM for your help. This is my first projector and screens have always been an area of ignorance for me. The more I looked at buying a screen, I felt like I would be disappointed and underserved by an Elite Screens model and that I would be bankrupted by a BD. From all the other users' success stories, it seems worthwhile to give the DIY route a shot.

rengep 02-10-2013 12:13 PM

Hi Mapmustang and congrats on getting a new home.

Lots to answere so I'll leave the majority of your requests to the masters here at avs.

Regarding the 1.5 mm tip I got this one through MM.

It's an earlex and correct me if I'm wrong MM but I belive they manufacture the Graco and it should fit the spayer you are considering.

Goog luck.

MississippiMan 02-10-2013 11:46 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rengep View Post


Regarding the 1.5 mm tip I got this one through MM.

It's an earlex and correct me if I'm wrong MM but I belive they manufacture the Graco and it should fit the spayer you are considering.

Goog luck.

"Goog" luck? Is that Nordic speak?

Yes, Earlex is the Mfg of the Graco

rengep 02-11-2013 02:30 PM

One too many thumbs....tongue.gif

mapmustang 03-03-2013 06:07 PM

Update to my original post: I'm now less than 2 weeks until closing on the new house. I purchased all the paint supplies for mixing the Silverfire and have a JVC RS46 on the way from Mike at AVS. I saw MississippiMan recommended a local Houston retailer for sintra, so I will be contacting him to get a sheet of sintra. I may be reconsidering my color scheme after reading that same post from MississippiMan, but the carpet is installed as black, so that won't change. A couple questions I still need answers on:
What mix of SF 2.5 would you guys recommend for my room and the JVC RS46?
Is there a need to have material like insulation or something for support behind the sintra? The screen will be covering the 2 windows, so should I put in some extra 2x4s toward the center of the screen for support?

Thanks again for all the help.

MississippiMan 03-04-2013 06:17 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mapmustang View Post

Update to my original post: I'm now less than 2 weeks until closing on the new house. I purchased all the paint supplies for mixing the Silverfire and have a JVC RS46 on the way from Mike at AVS. I saw MississippiMan recommended a local Houston retailer for sintra, so I will be contacting him to get a sheet of sintra. I may be reconsidering my color scheme after reading that same post from MississippiMan, but the carpet is installed as black, so that won't change. A couple questions I still need answers on:
What mix of SF 2.5 would you guys recommend for my room and the JVC RS46?

Silver Fire v2.5 2.0
Honestly though...if you place those Sconces at least as far back as I suggest you place the PJ (10' 6") you can go with RS-MaxxMudd Standard and forgo the Colorant steps. That is if the ceiling / Walls are effectively painted a no9n-reflective, Flat color.
Quote:
Is there a need to have material like insulation or something for support behind the sintra? The screen will be covering the 2 windows, so should I put in some extra 2x4s toward the center of the screen for support?


Thanks again for all the help.

Your screen is pretty small at 98" ( 48" x 85") and if using 6mm Sintra, it should span the opening without any inward / outward Bow. However you cannot hurt yourself by adding at least one vertical Brace at Center. Just be sure that any adhesive applied is spread out evenly and thin enough so as to not to create a "rise" at center.

But you cannot put any central bracing across the Window casing unless the inside Window Trim is removed..You will want to staple up some Blackout Cloth over the Window, but leave a inch open at the Top / Bottom for ventilation so as to avoid any condensation build-up. And don't lock that window either! Eventually you'll want to open it so as to clean the Glass panes.

mapmustang 03-30-2013 06:04 AM

Today is painting day. Could somebody remind me of the correct distance from the screen that the spray gun should be when using the Graco 2900 with a 1.5mm tip and also how to set the throttle on the gun? Should it be wide open? Also how much overlap between passes? I know I have read these things before, but it might take me awhile to find them today. Thanks for the help and wish me lots of luck.

MississippiMan 03-30-2013 09:21 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mapmustang View Post

Today is painting day. Could somebody remind me of the correct distance from the screen that the spray gun should be when using the Graco 2900 with a 1.5mm tip and also how to set the throttle on the gun? Should it be wide open? Also how much overlap between passes? I know I have read these things before, but it might take me awhile to find them today. Thanks for the help and wish me lots of luck.

Ok.....

Distance from screen (14")

Gun is ran "Wide Open"

70% Overlap. Star with at least 60% of the pattern above the Screen area, and finish in the same manner.

Be sure to run off each side at least 6" then drop that 30% and go back on - across.

I hope this came to you timely.

Rottza Ruck, Reroy.

mapmustang 04-02-2013 08:11 PM

So I was finally able to paint my screen on Easter Sunday and I attached some pictures of the results below. When I had finished mixing the paint, I got out the new needle I purchased, which I'm pretty sure I ordered the 1.5mm and found that they sent me a 1mm needle instead. After seeing that I referred back to MississippiMan's 106" tab tension job he did and saw that he did 8 or 9 coats with the 1mm. Mine definitely wasn't putting out a 10" tall pattern, maybe 8" or so. I ended up doing 9 coats, with the first 7 being about 2 feet/second so 3.5 seconds each pass and the last 2 coats were about 5-6 seconds per pass. I have never used a spray gun before, but for me it was pretty easy and I think the 1mm needle is more forgiving. I'm no expert, but I think the results came out pretty excellent. I went with the SF v2.5 2.0 mix. I still have to get the border up, but I was able to get the image pretty much square and rigged the Skyfall bluray to play off my laptop for some quick samples. The few minutes I saw looked fabulous. My wife came home and I showed her what she had been wanting me to save for "later" and she said "This is incredible".

All in all, it was a good bit of work and planning, but very rewarding to have a finished product come out looking great (and not botched the job in the process). This media room is a far greater DIY endeavor than I have ever attempted before and so far it has gone very well. MississippiMan, if you are ever in the Houston area it would be my pleasure to take you out for a few beers.



mapmustang 04-30-2013 06:43 PM

For mounting the velvet wrapped mdf to the screen have you guys all used a nail gun? I tried a good ole hammer to get those flimsy little finish nails through that MDF and so far the MDF seems to be winning. I don't want to start swinging too hard and miss and hit the screen at this point causing damage to a nearly complete screen.

pb_maxxx 04-30-2013 07:14 PM

they don't have to be flimsy.
use some hardened 'blue' finish nails.

MississippiMan 04-30-2013 07:47 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mapmustang View Post

For mounting the velvet wrapped mdf to the screen have you guys all used a nail gun? I tried a good ole hammer to get those flimsy little finish nails through that MDF and so far the MDF seems to be winning. I don't want to start swinging too hard and miss and hit the screen at this point causing damage to a nearly complete screen.

I use a Ryobi Battery Powered Finish Nailer w/1.25"ers. Those are very thin, flat "Cartridge" nails, but with the Set Strength at max, I usually don't have to "Nail Set" more that 50% of them.

But sometimes I do use standard round 1.5" Bright Finish Nails. They take some care. I drive them in at a slight angle, each one at an opposite angle from the one next. Two reasons for this:

1. Opposing angles help :seize: the Mdf to the surface.....even if I don't hit a stud.
2. Angled entry help the nails sink below the velvet when "set", preventing one from seeing the head like is more likely with a nail set straight in.

Hammered Nails should be tapped intro place until their points just barely protrude out the back. That allows just a few taps to get the Trim securely in place.

Like anything you do using a Hammer, a measured stroke is essential. You certainly don't want to mash the manner's head on the velvet because that will flatten and mar the Nap of the velvet. Get the nail head down flat, or very close...and then use a fine point Nail Set to drive them in under the Velvet.

mapmustang 05-12-2013 06:50 PM

Well idiot me, when marking on my MDF pieces where to apply the nails, had a slip of the hand and left a nice 2" pencil mark on my otherwise brilliant silverfire screen. I erased the pencil mark with the eraser and now there is a lackluster area where it appears the reflectivity has been rubbed away. It is mostly visible when a bright area hits that spot, but its definitely a nuisance to the eye when the rest of the picture looks so good. Any advice from you guys on a way to fix this without having to repaint?

NTW, I was able to get the finish nails to work out without buying a finish nailer. I used a 3/16" drill bit and just put holes through the MDF that are perfect size to slide the finish nails in there. After the pieces were in place, just used a finishing driver and the hammer and it looks great.

MississippiMan 05-13-2013 05:17 AM

To fix it you'd have to remove the trim......I wish you'd have reported such before installing it. In any case it's not difficult to repair. But obviously, you cannot fix a blemished area of highly reflective paint without reparing the paint....with paint.

You simply use this:


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-9-oz-Complete-Spray-Gun-267/202533738

And use about 3-4 oz of your remaining SF paint, further diluted slightly so it flows out the Prevail freely. **

You only have to mask a small area outside the Trim edges with some plastic, and use a light, dusting technique to feather in a couple very quick coats over the affected area.

**
Be sure to practice your technique on a sample to ascertain how well the paint is being distributed. It won't take much at all to restore such a small area that is so lightly affected.

However...it is the only way to correct such a mistake.


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