BenQ W1070 Screen Paint - Newbie need help - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 02-12-2013, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi, newbie here that's setting up a basement ht. I recently acquired the BenQ w 1070 and would like to paint my own screen. I have a picture attached that is from our appraisal report with prior owners belongings, so apologies for not having better picture. Walls are a beige color with white ceiling. Dimensions are roughly 25x26x9. I was thinking of about a 115-125" screen size so about at 12' throw.

Primarily going to be used for movies, but also tv.

I would rather not repaint the whole basement, so I would be looking for a color that would work with this projector and environment. I will probably cover up the block glass windows. Last thing is I would like to use Sherwin Williams due to a discount I have and I don't have access to a sprayer, so I will be using roller. Looking for tips and guidance on paints, brush types and everything else I am missing.


Thanks!

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post #2 of 30 Old 02-12-2013, 09:17 PM
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Sherwin Williams Pro Classic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White B20. Excellent color and very deep blacks. Use a tight nap roller to avoid any artifacts in the smoothness of the coat.
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post #3 of 30 Old 02-13-2013, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks AudioFyle. Would the satin be to reflective or shiny compared to using a matte?
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post #4 of 30 Old 02-13-2013, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by js741502 View Post

Thanks AudioFyle. Would the satin be to reflective or shiny compared to using a matte?

You want to use a "Matte" or "Flat", and I strongly suggest you have the paint mixed to a N8.5 Gray. ) SW 6260 UNIQUE GRAY (

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #5 of 30 Old 02-13-2013, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks MississippiMan. Pardon my ignorance, but would you mind elaborating on mixing to N8.5 gray? Just curious why that shade of gray vs others and what is the impact on the picture.

Thanks!
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post #6 of 30 Old 02-13-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by js741502 View Post

Thanks MississippiMan. Pardon my ignorance, but would you mind elaborating on mixing to N8.5 gray? Just curious why that shade of gray vs others and what is the impact on the picture.

Thanks!

N or NG = Neutral Gray

The Munsill scale of "Light to Dark" is graduated numerically, with a 10.0 being completely White, and a 0.0 being completely Black

The Color selected is a shade of Gray, the tint of which is a specific Sherwin Color. it is "very" Neutral, and only moderately Gray. If you go into a SW stire and hand then the name / Color Code provided, they'll hook you up no time.

You can go here to view plenty of SW Grays. http://www.avsforum.com/t/929997/beginners-guide-to-simple-diy-painted-screens/60#post_12107536

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post #7 of 30 Old 02-13-2013, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the explanation! Really appreciate the timely replies too. I'm moving into the new house this weekend, so once I get all the major things unpacked and squared away it's off to the basement for me. I'll try and do a series of photos to document progress.
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post #8 of 30 Old 02-14-2013, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by js741502 View Post

Thanks for the explanation! Really appreciate the timely replies too. I'm moving into the new house this weekend, so once I get all the major things unpacked and squared away it's off to the basement for me. I'll try and do a series of photos to document progress.



As a fellow W1070 owners, here are some of my past experience with the SW paints.

I previously owned the Epson 8100 and tried both the SW Unique Gray and Extra White. I am now on a Spandex screen, but might be doing something else soon.

I really liked the SW Unique Gray, better blacks and colors are richer and deeper. Sadly, the Epson on its most accurate setting did not have enough lumens for the gray screen. I then went to Extra White, which was much brighter and I've lived with that for a while.

With the lumens of the W1070 (around 1100 in Cinema mode), you should be very happy with the SW Unique Gray paint. You can check by DIY thread around here for details on the build. Hope that help.
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post #9 of 30 Old 02-25-2013, 10:28 AM
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Wow, I am glad I found this post.

I just got through painting my wall with just a cheap flat white color. Before it was a eggshell creamish color with a slight gloss to it and it looked ok.
But now I used this cheap flat white color and the Benq quality now looks very dull and I just can't stand it.

I posted a video on youtube to show you my room that I am using it in with the old eggshell color before I painted it with the crap flat white (the quality of the video is pretty bad since I was using my Android to record it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XS3pjaGZ1DQ

So the SW Gray will make it look better? Better than the satin white mentioned earlier? Won't a slight gloss to the paint give it more "umph" to it?

Thanks!
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post #10 of 30 Old 02-25-2013, 02:21 PM
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I have a W1070 as well looking at getting a piece of sintra and painting it. The screen will be in a basement HT as well light can be controlled. Just have a couple of questions. What would be the best mixture, i.e. color to paint this screen? I have some ambient light from side windows and would like something that will help with that for when you "don't want that in the cave feeling". Also to help with the blacks on the 1070 as well. If there is something that will do both that would be great.

I read one of MM posts were he says to cut a 10x5 sintra board to 107 inches in length, but on the BenQ calculator it says 106 inches. Which is best?

And last MM what kind of LED's did you use on the float screen? I had LED's on the back of my old TV and loved the ambient light effect.
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post #11 of 30 Old 02-25-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by middlevil View Post

I have a W1070 as well looking at getting a piece of sintra and painting it. The screen will be in a basement HT as well light can be controlled. Just have a couple of questions. What would be the best mixture, i.e. color to paint this screen? I have some ambient light from side windows and would like something that will help with that for when you "don't want that in the cave feeling". Also to help with the blacks on the 1070 as well. If there is something that will do both that would be great.

RS-MaxxMudd can get'ter dun.....or Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 for an even more emphatic and dramitic effect.
Quote:
I read one of MM posts were he says to cut a 10x5 sintra board to 107 inches in length, but on the BenQ calculator it says 106 inches. Which is best?

Who ya askin'? confused.gif

Even 16:9 "Widescreen' can come in variable format. It is easier to correct an image that is slightly less / more wide than the screen than one that is too short / too tall. As such, going that extra inch of widthis of good benefit. Of course, the wider you make your surrounding trim, the more masking potential you have as well.
Quote:
And last MM what kind of LED's did you use on the float screen? I had LED's on the back of my old TV and loved the ambient light effect.

I know yer talkin' to me now.......2nd time tonight I've been asked that. Watch this space for an answer coming soon. ( tomorrow eve.)

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post #12 of 30 Old 02-26-2013, 08:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I did the satin mixed to the unique gray and it came out pretty great. I will say that I will eventually need to skim wall and re paint. You will see every imperfection in wall, but for now I am very happy with my $30 screen! Thanks for the help!
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post #13 of 30 Old 03-30-2013, 06:13 AM
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Here is an interesting article on projector central:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm?page=Finding-the-Perfect-Paint

They actually had better experience with satin over flat.
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post #14 of 30 Old 03-30-2013, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tasburath View Post

Here is an interesting article on projector central:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/paint_perfect_screen_$100.htm?page=Finding-the-Perfect-Paint

They actually had better experience with satin over flat.

Actually, more people have reported Hot Spotting issues than have not, primarily because since that article was published, SW has changed their formulations....as well as their being some confusion as to exactly what paint is best to use.

Combine all that with the expensiveness of SW paint, and there are other proven paint applications that will actually do better.

The general rule of Thumb, one that keeps you from getting that Thumb smashed, is to avoid using any paint that has a sheen beyond Matte.

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post #15 of 30 Old 07-19-2013, 11:35 AM
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Any others recently paint a screen for use with the 1070? What paint did you use?

Mitsubishi HC4000/Elite Screens 120" SableFrame CineWhite/Darbee Darblet/WDTV LIVE HUB/WD MYBOOK LIVE NAS
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post #16 of 30 Old 07-19-2013, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funstuff View Post

Any others recently paint a screen for use with the 1070? What paint did you use?

The paint mix others might either choose or out of necessity have to have is based on several different criteria.

Silver Fire, RS-MaxxMudd, even a good 'ol basic Neutral Gray, all could be candidates.

A "Loser" would be Matte White, even in a Dark Theater, because the w1070 could use some Contrast boosting.

So if you will, list some facts:

Room size / colors
Desired Screen size (...tied to Throw distance)
Expected Lighting levels
DIY'ism level

Choosing something ideal from all that will be easy enough.....even a viable 2nd choice.

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post #17 of 30 Old 07-20-2013, 12:15 PM
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We went with an 8.5 neutral grey and are loving it. If we want to boost it a bit in the future then we'll probably go with the maxxmudd-ll.

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post #18 of 30 Old 07-20-2013, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RedLefty View Post

We went with an 8.5 neutral grey and are loving it. If we want to boost it a bit in the future then we'll probably go with the maxxmudd-ll.

NG 8.5 is a light enough shade to help avoid undue attenuation yet still reap some benefits from the properties of Gray.

However if you switch later to RS-MM LL, to get the best effect you'd wand to re-prime over the existing 8.5 to that your undercoat starts out at approx.1.0

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post #19 of 30 Old 07-22-2013, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The paint mix others might either choose or out of necessity have to have is based on several different criteria.

Silver Fire, RS-MaxxMudd, even a good 'ol basic Neutral Gray, all could be candidates.

A "Loser" would be Matte White, even in a Dark Theater, because the w1070 could use some Contrast boosting.

So if you will, list some facts:

Room size / colors
Desired Screen size (...tied to Throw distance)
Expected Lighting levels
DIY'ism level

Choosing something ideal from all that will be easy enough.....even a viable 2nd choice.

Thanks!

The room is around 20' x 14'.

Will mount the projector at around 10' 9" for 120" screen.

Wall colours will probably be a neutral beige. Lighting will be controlled (pot lights), but can assume viewing will take place in a completely dark room.

Don't want to get too tricky with the steps involved for painting, as we could eventually end up buying a screen down the line.

Mitsubishi HC4000/Elite Screens 120" SableFrame CineWhite/Darbee Darblet/WDTV LIVE HUB/WD MYBOOK LIVE NAS
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post #20 of 30 Old 07-22-2013, 10:22 AM
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For the w1070 and a 120" diagonal screen I "strongly" suggest RS-MM-LL.

And if you nail it, I'm pretty darn certain that spending 12x more for a comparable Mfg Screen at a later date will be far from your considerations. cool.gif

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post #21 of 30 Old 07-22-2013, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

NG 8.5 is a light enough shade to help avoid undue attenuation yet still reap some benefits from the properties of Gray.

However if you switch later to RS-MM LL, to get the best effect you'd wand to re-prime over the existing 8.5 to that your undercoat starts out at approx.1.0

Oh absolutely! We can tell the performance with ambient light is better than it was when just the white primer was on the wall, but the RS-MM-LL would definitely help deliver even more, plus probably an LEDTV-like "pop" in a more darkened room.

One day we may optimize that way, but for now we were ready to take the fastest path for "good enough". Coming off a 10yo 56" rear-projection DLP, this 2,000-lumen beast we're projecting at 120" for under a grand is quite a fun time. We watched two movies in one day yesterday for the first time in about five years!

You input all over this subforum is priceless. Thank you for how helpful, patient and personalized you are with your advice.

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post #22 of 30 Old 07-22-2013, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLefty View Post

Oh absolutely! We can tell the performance with ambient light is better than it was when just the white primer was on the wall, but the RS-MM-LL would definitely help deliver even more, plus probably an LEDTV-like "pop" in a more darkened room.

One day we may optimize that way, but for now we were ready to take the fastest path for "good enough". Coming off a 10yo 56" rear-projection DLP, this 2,000-lumen beast we're projecting at 120" for under a grand is quite a fun time. We watched two movies in one day yesterday for the first time in about five years!

You input all over this subforum is priceless. Thank you for how helpful, patient and personalized you are with your advice.

Well awlwriteethen.... smile.gif

Thanks for the boost. I showed your comment to the Wife. Should keep her off my back for another couple weeks. tongue.gif

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post #23 of 30 Old 08-14-2014, 07:43 AM
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Screen or paint?

Looks like I am back again after a year. I'm in a different place now so different setup.

Still have my Benq W1070 and loving it.

But now my room is 21' wide, 13' from the wall to the couch and about 8.5' high.

I ordered this 120" motorized screen from Amazon

Just received it and it weighs quite a bit, plus I have to hang it from the ceiling which looks to be a bigger pain than I realized, so I have to go out and buy hooks to drill into the ceiling (ugh!).

Thinking about returning it today and maybe going back to just painting the wall instead with the suggested N8.5 Gray, SW 6260 Unique Gray.
Also, I've seen lots of people on here making their own screens that look a lot less in weight, which would be nice.

Really want to get the best viewing possible here on a tight budget. Would love to enjoy deeper, richer colors, better blacks, etc.

Also, this is the living room, so some decent amount of light gets in during the day. Any suggestions on blinds or shades to knock off some of the light?

Here are some pics of my wall and the motorized screen on the table at the bottom (notice that the screen at the bottom is bigger than the wall, hence the reason for hanging it from the ceiling and you can see that the thermostat is in the way on the right side):


Thanks all!!

-Nap
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post #24 of 30 Old 08-14-2014, 09:55 AM
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Nap,

With the available wall area, your looking to wind up with a 110" diagonal (96" x 54") plus a small Trim Border.

You can certainly get by well enough with the SW Unique Gray if you use a Flat Paint as Base, and the wall is / or is made to be very smooth.

And especially if you spray on the coats.

But instead of "getting by, if you want the best possible results, consider using Silver Fire v2.5 1.0 (No Colorant added)

............but you still have to spray.

Projected cost of Paint and Gun + materials.....$175.00, and that gets you a Fixed screen that will compare to Mfg versions costing well into the $1000s

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post #25 of 30 Old 08-14-2014, 12:06 PM
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Thanks MississippiMan!

Ok, the screen is going back then.

I would like to go with your suggestion of using Silver Fire v2.5 1.0 (which is a paint, correct?), but I have no idea how to do that, or what materials I need to make my screen.
Willing to part with $175 gladly to get that awesomeness you are suggesting!!

Is this the screen material that you would suggest or another?

Also, I found your thread on Silver Fire HERE. Is this correct?

Plus I need to get a nylon paint strainer and either a Wagner or a Graco a paint sprayer, correct?

I guess I need to just understand better what exact mix I need to make and how to make the screen itself.

Am I in the right direction?
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post #26 of 30 Old 08-14-2014, 12:39 PM
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Thanks MississippiMan!

Ok, the screen is going back then. Good Choice

I would like to go with your suggestion of using Silver Fire v2.5 1.0 (which is a paint, correct?), but I have no idea how to do that, or what materials I need to make my screen. No Worries....I / we'll address those question very soon.
Willing to part with $175 gladly to get that awesomeness you are suggesting!! We just might come in under that budget....better to shoot high than aim low.

Is this the screen material that you would suggest or another? If a Fixed Screen that is lightweight is what you want, that material is a great starting point. I'd prefer to have you use SINTRA (a solid sheet) but that would increase the Price by at least $60.00

Also, I found your thread on Silver Fire HERE. Is this correct? Yep....but I'm going to help you wade through your requirements. That Thread is due for a total overhaul of Links and info.

Plus I need to get a nylon paint strainer and either a Wagner or a Graco a paint sprayer, correct? Yes...and a Squirrel Cage Mixing Tool. Links are coming...but here is one for a great HVLP Gun. http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0417005.../dp/B000DZBP60

I guess I need to just understand better what exact mix I need to make and how to make the screen itself. That's what I'm here for.....fret not.

Am I in the right direction?
Absewlootly

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post #27 of 30 Old 08-14-2014, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Silver Fire v2.5 1.0 (No Colorant added)
As 1.0 is what I intend to do for my own SF screen (as you suggested for my application), I'd like to clarify that SF V2.5 1.0 would otherwise call for 1 oz. of colorant, correct? Just trying to decipher the quote and expect it may be a typo or budget/simplicity suggestion. May just be that the closer paint day gets for me, the more paranoid I become about making an error
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post #28 of 30 Old 08-15-2014, 06:16 AM
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Since the use of the Rust Oleum Silver has been advised, I have found that the shade of the Reflective Base alone matches a 1.0 shade. Of course you could not hurt yourself by adding 1 oz. of Colorant, and with the 3+ oz. you'd have left I'm sure you could find a willing member to ante up for the remainder. (...mixing Colorant remains the "Boogy Man" for some DIY'ers....)

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post #29 of 30 Old 08-15-2014, 11:25 PM
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Since the use of the Rust Oleum Silver has been advised, I have found that the shade of the Reflective Base alone matches a 1.0 shade. Of course you could not hurt yourself by adding 1 oz. of Colorant, and with the 3+ oz. you'd have left I'm sure you could find a willing member to ante up for the remainder. (...mixing Colorant remains the "Boogy Man" for some DIY'ers....)
I had questioned how the "versions" may be altered by the darker silver. Despite having all the liquitex items (could find another use for them), this post may push me to just get rustoleum over the liquitex silver if I can reduce the chance of error (any extra cost will be irrelevant in the face of the total theater build ).

Sorry for any thread deviation on my part, and thank you for the clarification
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post #30 of 30 Old 08-16-2014, 03:13 AM
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As time and PJ specifications move forward, what with their (PJs) brightness and contrast improvements, the need for the darker SF versions can be mitigated....as long as ambient light and reflected light is also restrained to justifiable levels.

Silver Fire without Colorant is virtually the same thing as RS-MaxxMudd Retro, so the lines become a bit blurred between the two.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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