Linacoustic behind spandex screen - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 02-13-2013, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Putting aside the point that I’m making an AT screen when I don’t need it to be AT, would there be a benefit to putting Linacoustic behind the spandex? As of now the only thing on my screen wall is a layer of velvet over drywall so I was thinking it’s common to put a couple inches of material behind false walls so why not a layer behind my screen?

P1120374_zps555ae6fc.jpg

Thoughts? And no, I'm not changing to a solid substrate screen.


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post #2 of 19 Old 02-13-2013, 02:14 PM
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Well what color of Spandex are you using?

In truth, you absolutely MUST put additional backing behind Spandex....there is no "maybe"....."why not"?

If White is on Top, then use a layer of this behind for increased Contrast and the prevention of light bleed through:

http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/5954

If your using Silver for the Front, then use this:

http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795

I just finished up a 135" "White Milliskin over Light Silver Milliskin" 2.35:1 screen with a Panny 8000 in play, and I gotta say it was a spectacular success.


.......of course I did it "Because" AT properties were needed. wink.gif

Anybody wanna see it? cool.gif

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post #3 of 19 Old 02-13-2013, 08:54 PM
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I'd like to see it MM. How did the Mille stack up to the Mole.
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post #4 of 19 Old 02-14-2013, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I will have silver matte mole behind and white matte mole in front. The screen frame will be painted black and of course the wall is already black velvet so the only benefit of adding 1" of Linacoustic is for additional treatment. It won't affect the picture quality I just didn't want to waste time or insulation if it wouldn't be helpful. As of right now I figure it shouldn't hurt so I'm planning on doing it.

I hung the screen frame last night and I am not happy with the French cleats I bought. Perhaps it’s the screen track on the back but there is very little metal overlap. I just don’t see how I’m going to be able to get the screen centered and all three cleats on and level once the spandex is wrapped. Think I paid $10-$20 each for the cleats too. I even bent the cleats out a bit and it didn’t help much.

So I either need to toss those and just take some wood and make my own cleat or attempt to hang it with 2-3 people and then if that doesn’t work make my own cleat. I hate redoing work and wasting money and time.


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post #5 of 19 Old 02-14-2013, 07:09 AM
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Brother, having seen the weave of the Moleskin compared to the Milliskin, I am strongly urging you to consider the Milliskin for the Top layer (...and it's less expensive per yard too! ) Once backed, it's finer weave presents an even smoother image that I though possible.

The Rear layer matters much less, however having the thicker Moleskin back there can only help retain more light.

I am composing a thread on the 135: Diag 2.35:1 Milliskin Screen project at this moment, so look for it soon on the boards.

BTW, save yourself the grief of another miscue and go forward with making your own Cleat. You can then control length / depth / and positioning.

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post #6 of 19 Old 02-14-2013, 08:21 AM
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Hi,

so per you suggestion use the white milliskin for the top layer and the silver moleskin for the back. how many yard each piece needed for 130~135" diag screen?
also does this combo work well with the benq w1070 or the not yet release w1080st? I'm thinking to get the w1080st for the short throw feature.

Thanks
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post #7 of 19 Old 02-14-2013, 09:20 AM
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Three yards should be fine.
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post #8 of 19 Old 02-14-2013, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I already have the spandex, I'd hate to waste it but in the end it's only another $40 I guess with shipping, I'll think about it. Wonder if you could jam two layers of moleskin in one of the screen tight tracks and then put miliskin over it in the 2nd track?


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post #9 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zx168 View Post

Hi,

so per you suggestion use the white milliskin for the top layer and the silver moleskin for the back. how many yard each piece needed for 130~135" diag screen?
also does this combo work well with the benq w1070 or the not yet release w1080st? I'm thinking to get the w1080st for the short throw feature.

Thanks

I just completed a 135"er using 4 Yards, and had at least a 2' piece of material left. Plus, about 6" minimum of Trimmed material all around.

But that means that with a 130.5" wide Frame (...just under 11'), 12' (4 yards) when stretched out resulted in less than a yard of left over spandex.

You only want to stretch Spandex enough to remove any wrinkles and make the surface Flat. Too much stretching and the fabric will become so porous it will lose too much reflective opacity.

Far better to have fabric left over than to wind up with a overly stretched out surface on which you can then see the expanded weave pattern. YUou can always trim away excess, but no one has of yet come up with a way to grow Spandex that isn't there.

Have they?

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post #10 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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I haven't taken my spandex out of the box and didn't know at the time to request a roll. I'm going to assume its wrinkled but was hoping a short round in the dryer on low heat would help. Anyone done that? I was thinking I'd try it on the gray first just in case something happened.


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post #11 of 19 Old 02-16-2013, 03:07 PM
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If the fabric does not have any sharp creases, it should pull out.

Spandex needs to be tumble dried at medium heat until warmed (10 minutes....pre-heat the Dryer ) if you want to try that as an assist. But personally, I'd resort to that only if there were in fact creases.

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post #12 of 19 Old 02-18-2013, 06:21 AM
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I also received my spandex in a box. I lightly ironed the cloth before I stretched it, but I am not sure it was necessary. Since I only ordered 2 yards of the silver moleskin matte spandex I had to stretch it quite tight to cover my 120" diagonal 2.35:1 frame. The white spandex backing that I bought at Hancock Fabrics on sale was stretched much less because I bought three yards of that and it was never stuffed into a box.
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post #13 of 19 Old 02-18-2013, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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I have three yards of each so once electrical is done next week I'll clean up the theater and lay down a fresh blanket, then a plastic drop cloth and give the stretching a go.


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post #14 of 19 Old 02-23-2013, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Screen is wrapped and hung
E191CCF9-8E63-438A-BE97-FF8328BFFEDB-549-000000F8DBB10E99_zpsd0535bdd.jpg
19A680DE-C016-4661-A799-91AE2157AFF4-549-000000F8D56A9EBE_zpse248dfc1.jpg

It has three 31"x37" linacoustic panels behind it


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post #15 of 19 Old 02-25-2013, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick and dirty, looks much better in person but I don't have a DSLR. I'll keep messing with the settings and see if my camera can take a better picture.
screenshot02_zps23d0988d.jpg

The black levels are much better than my old screen and the picture is crisper I think. It's been four months since I've seen a movie in my theater and my memory isn't that good.

I've done some eyeball level calibration on Color 1 for my Pan 4k and when I tested the New and Dynamic modes which really pump out the lumens it was just too bright for both my wife and I. I would only ever use dynamic if I had most of the lights on for some reason.


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post #16 of 19 Old 02-25-2013, 07:56 PM
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Try moving back further, then using Zoom to frame the image, leaving about 25% viewed content of the surrounding room at most. Put the camera on / use "Auto" everything else.

I think it looks pretty good "as is" though.....and besides....I've always had a fetish for spunky Redheads with long wavy hair.

Married one in fact...and just celebrated a 34th Anniversary on Valentines Day. However I'll tell you this of a certain...I'm not letting here get anywhere near a Bow and Arrows!!! eek.gif

No one is gonna get a chance to shoot this grouchy old bear. wink.gif

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post #17 of 19 Old 03-02-2013, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I took some new shots leaving the camera in auto. I'll need to borrow a good DSLR to get anything good the artifacts at 100% resolution are bad. Anyway here they're for what it's worth.

The PJ is a Panasonic AE4000 on Eco mode with 1030 ours on the bulb.

Color 1 550 lumens
P1120480_zps0b8c1c80.jpg
P1120477_zps72470f5c.jpg
New, 950 lumens
P1120482_zps6fa1d2d1.jpg
P1120481_zps164035ca.jpg
P1120474_zps5ca7e45b.jpg

Dynamic 1300 or so lumens, I forget
P1120479_zpsd0324bb1.jpg


I forgot what these were
P1120485_zps752009c3.jpg
P1120484_zps87130c10.jpg


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post #18 of 19 Old 03-02-2013, 05:07 PM
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What did you use to make lip on outer edge of frame?


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post #19 of 19 Old 03-03-2013, 06:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

What did you use to make lip on outer edge of frame?

Home depot had it listed as quarter round, basically shoe molding. I had intended to use it on the underside of my riser and step trim but I forgot to install it before I nailed it down so I used it on the screen frame.


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