A 135" Diagonal 2.35:1 White Milliskin over Light Silver Milliskin Spandex Screen Build. - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 112 Old 07-08-2013, 06:29 AM
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I still need to dial the projector in and cut the trim and wrap it. Can someone give some recommendations again as to how to setup your camera to take a good screenshot?
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post #62 of 112 Old 07-08-2013, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jowens View Post

I still need to dial the projector in and cut the trim and wrap it. Can someone give some recommendations again as to how to setup your camera to take a good screenshot?

Stand back toward the rear of the room, and use Zoom to frame the screen with approx. 20% of the surrounding wall included, take your shots with the Camera set to "Auto" everything.

You can try framing in to the point where you only have a small edge of Black / Room Wall color showing, but framing (zooming) a shot within the actual Projected image results in a biased image that isn't really representative of what is on screen.

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post #63 of 112 Old 07-13-2013, 01:33 PM
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I was looking into the supplies needed to make the screen and I was wondering why the heavy use of poplar over rectangular tube aluminum. Is it only a cost point thing or is there no potential that the wood will sag over time? I found distribution online, but I can also get the metal through a vendor my company works for as well. I figured if the retailers make it from aluminium and I can too what would the advantage be over the wood? Also for a 16:9 screen at 135" what would my exact dimensions be with zero edge vs one that I attach the velvet border to? Thank you all for the help.
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post #64 of 112 Old 07-14-2013, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Ease of working with....local availability....far easier "attachment" options, all make Poplar ( Kiln-Dried Clear Poplar will seldom warp or bend...ever.) a "popular" choice.

A great many people go with pre-made, pre-sized metal framing kits because they either like the idea of using metal, or they don't want to, or cannot work with wood....or both.

Size can also have a great deal to do with it, as can the material used and the degree of stretching tension required.

But mostly it seems to be a preference thingee. Some DIY'ers have no qualms about spending extra for a building material / system that will reflect their own sensibilities on how something should be made, and look like afterward upon inspection. Others are primarily concerned with what they see "up front" and how much it's gonna cost them to get there.

135" Diagonal Zero Edge 16:9 ......66" x 118"
135" Diagonal Zero Edge 2.35:1 ...52" x 125"

Trimmed Screen "inside" dimensions are the same.

One thing to consider is that with wood, 10' is usually the length limit of the "sticks" you can buy.
With Metal there can be / usually are more choices as far as larger sizes / longer pieces, but you better believe that cost will be reflected in those choices.
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post #65 of 112 Old 07-14-2013, 03:57 PM
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I'll price the metal out tomorrow then and see how that goes and make my decision based on findings. If I was to consider a zero edge could I mount on a Mouse Ears background and get good results from that as well or velvet is the way to go when trying to absorb all overflow lighting?
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post #66 of 112 Old 07-14-2013, 07:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Well.....nothing will work better than Black Velvet to create the illusion of the Screen floating in space. However the right choice and proper application of Paint will certainly get you closer to that goal.

Any attempt at doing a righteous Zero Edge is dependent on being able to get the projected image dimensions to fit the Screen as perfectly as possible.

You have a W1080ST. It has no Lens Shift and among the shortest Focal length of any PJ. (1'-5")

So your first job is to get the PJ mounted at the distance you need to obtain the size you want....and that is something tied to your room / seating circumstances.

Once the PJ is mounted, you can shoot a temporary full sized image onto the wall where the screen will go, get it squared and true, then lock in the exact perfect size / dimensions for your screen. Because you only have 8' to work with, and a big screen in mind, ...also the desire for two rows of seats as well as Stand Up Gaming down front, you have set the screen's top edge as high as possible.

A metal framed screen that has a known thickness of components will easily allow you to hang is securely over such a pre ordained location.

Before you do....that's when you "SPRAY" on first 2 coats of a dark Gray tinted Primer, then spray at least 2 Coats of the Mouse Ears in a Flat or Matte Interior Enamel

If everything gels, and the image fits almost perfect, then most all overspill will first be scattered somewhat by the 3" drop of the Metal Frame, and the attenuated by the Black surface. But in my opinion, if this is to be 2.35:1 CIH, the intensity of the light spill (ie: non projected, horizontal image areas...) will determine as to if a paint will suffice. I cannot speak as to how well such areas are masked using the W1080ST. But one thing about paint. It can get covered with cloth if it's performance is found wanting.

As stated, the real success in it all hinges on your doing a highly adjustable and rock stead ceiling mount, and getting the screen matched up. If only you were painting onto the new wall, how much easier it would be and how much more effective the performance would be as well.

OOPs....wrong thread for all that business. redface.gif

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post #67 of 112 Old 07-21-2013, 02:35 PM
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Longtime lurker... Just picked up a new PJ. I'm about to purchase the 2 listed fabrics; white and light silver, but found Spandex world is out of stock on the Light Silver. Looked around and found that there aren't any websites selling spandex that have the Light Silver in stock. MM, do you think the regular Silver would be acceptable for this application?

Also, www.fabricsworldusa.com has these 2 materials @ $8.00 per yard.
TIA
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post #68 of 112 Old 07-21-2013, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Playing it safe, I'd say that if you plan to place the Silver Milliskin at the rear.....then yes.

In any case, the Silver at the rear is of dual purpose. It both conserves a higher percentage of the light that passes through the topmost layer, as well as adds a Contrast enhancing property to the equation by deepening through modest attenuation.

Some have reported that regular Silver Milliskin from other sources is as light as , or even a shade lighter than the Light Silver coming from Spandex World.. This could be because there is no one single Mfg of the various Spandex made. A darker spandex as a top layer would of course deepen Black levels even further, but as stated, does that through a combination of both absorption and attenuation. A white back drop would of course serve to halt / reduce further light loss through absorption, but it would have a lessor effect as far as being able to restore any brightness lost therein. That said, I'm also fairly certain that if one has a Torch-like PK and uses those lumen to best effect, the end result just might justify the means to get there.

The earlier attempts in going Silver over White did not involve using what has become to be accepted as adequate lumen output. So perhaps....?

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post #69 of 112 Old 07-21-2013, 08:55 PM
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Thanks MM, yes silver at back, white on top.
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post #70 of 112 Old 07-22-2013, 03:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Well then your all good.

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post #71 of 112 Old 08-20-2013, 02:05 PM
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What's the maximum height using the spandex? I know it's sold in bolts of 58", but can it be stretched to 135:76" (16x9)? Or 125:70"?

Also, why not use White over white spandex, rather than white over silver?
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post #72 of 112 Old 08-21-2013, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rachurch View Post

What's the maximum height using the spandex? I know it's sold in bolts of 58", but can it be stretched to 135:76" (16x9)? Or 125:70"?

Also, why not use White over white spandex, rather than white over silver?

125" x 70" absolutely.

4-wat stretch spandex has considerable stretching leeway. The only real issue when stretching it that far is keeping the material "square" to the Frame. You should always follow the accepted procedure and pattern that has been posted here.

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post #73 of 112 Old 08-22-2013, 09:47 AM
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post #74 of 112 Old 08-23-2013, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I think the sheen would create a lot of unwanted glare (ie: intense localized Hot Spoting )

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post #75 of 112 Old 08-23-2013, 07:45 AM
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I like 3D which is why I purchased the Panasonic AE-8000 so white will be on top! They seem to be out of the milliskin matte light silver in fact there is no link for it at all when you go to the milliskin matte page. Maybe it was discontinued. Would the matte shiny silver work under the matte white or should I go with the milliskin mate silver or moleskin mate silver under the white (what ever will give the most gain). Maybe with the white on top it would reduce the shiny and chance of hot spotting. I guess I could try it and report back but would like your opinion first. What ever you think the best that they currenty have in stock is what I will go with.
Milliskin mate silver
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post #76 of 112 Old 08-23-2013, 07:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

I like 3D which is why I purchased the Panasonic AE-8000 so white will be on top! They seem to be out of the milliskin matte light silver in fact there is no link for it at all when you go to the milliskin matte page. Maybe it was discontinued.

http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/5954
Quote:
Would the matte shiny silver work under the matte white or should I go with the milliskin mate silver or moleskin mate silver under the white (what ever will give the most gain). Maybe with the white on top it would reduce the shiny and chance of hot spotting. I guess I could try it and report back but would like your opinion first. What ever you think the best that they currenty have in stock is what I will go with.

It might work...and might be worth a shot because it might increase gain a tad simp0ly because the surface will collect and reflect more / a higher percentage of the light absorbed through the top layer of White Matte Milliskin.

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post #77 of 112 Old 08-23-2013, 08:14 AM
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I think I will give it a try and repot back I can always replace it if there is hot spoting.
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post #78 of 112 Old 08-24-2013, 04:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

I think I will give it a try and repot back I can always replace it if there is hot spoting.

I don't think Hot Spotting will be an issue, as much as whatever color shift the type of sheen on the Shiny Silver "might" introduce (blue)

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post #79 of 112 Old 01-09-2014, 12:03 PM
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I was wondering if I use the white matte milliskin on top and a gray shiny millskin under it. Would it improve the results or if anyone has tried that already..
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post #80 of 112 Old 01-25-2014, 10:03 AM
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Sorry Newb question, how are you projecting that 2.35:1 and not using an anamorphic lens? I realize the PT-AE8000u has zoom and focus memory settings, but doesn't it still project the letterbox bars? I realize the bars are of course black. But I don't see a lot of light hitting below the screen.

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post #81 of 112 Old 01-25-2014, 02:53 PM
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Did you place any speakers behind the screen?
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post #82 of 112 Old 01-25-2014, 05:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewtownTheater View Post

Sorry Newb question, how are you projecting that 2.35:1 and not using an anamorphic lens? I realize the PT-AE8000u has zoom and focus memory settings, but doesn't it still project the letterbox bars? I realize the bars are of course black. But I don't see a lot of light hitting below the screen.

The Panny also has adjustable Vertical and Horizontal Masking that hides any / all light from unused formatting.

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Did you place any speakers behind the screen?

Yes....the Center Channel was placed on a shelf built off the wall directly behind the Center of the Screen.

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post #83 of 112 Old 01-26-2014, 09:06 AM
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What model did the panny start doing that? My panny seems to project letter boxes. Wish I had an aperture plate like my days from being a projectionist.

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post #84 of 112 Old 01-27-2014, 12:44 AM - Thread Starter
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The masking isn't automatic...you have to engage /adjust it.

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post #85 of 112 Old 01-27-2014, 10:03 AM
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How much material would one need to build a 110" Screen. That would be about 96" wide and 54" tall. Could one yard of milliskin be enough to stretch that far, or would I be better off getting more?

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post #86 of 112 Old 01-27-2014, 02:39 PM
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3 yards would be best. 2 yards would be almost drum head tight.
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post #87 of 112 Old 01-27-2014, 02:54 PM
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Thanks. It looks like light silver is out of stock. I may just get white and silver, seems like that is a popular choice.

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post #88 of 112 Old 01-28-2014, 10:01 AM
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If I understand correctly the ae8000u has lens memory settings. But my ae2000u does not have lens memory correct? I have to zoom and focus the picture manually. Sorry I recently picked up this Panny at an estate sale and haven't really gotten too far into setup. I just saw a youtube video of a guy that's showing how he takes is ae4000u and zooms to fill a 2.35:1 screen. And it doesn't appear there is light bleed around his screen. Which is my question, at what model number did Panasonic start offering a way to fill a 2:35 screen without light bleed? Will my 2000 do that or was the 4000 the first projector that did that? I've also recently figured out what the vertical scale feature was meant for, which is using an anamorphic lens so that you're using the full capacity of the projector and able to fill a 2.35 screen. But I'm looking for a poor mans way to do that since anamorphic lens seem to be crazy expensive. It seems the 4000 allows the poor mans 2.35, but the 2000 I'll need a lens or deal with light bleed around the screen?

Man I hope I'm making sense.

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post #89 of 112 Old 01-28-2014, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
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You are unfortunately right. The AE 2000u only has a Horizontal "Stretch Mode" to allow accommodating a Anamorphic Lens, and it has no masking feature. (...you can set your screen within extra wide Black Velvet Top/Bottom Boarders...)

It was a superior PJ upon release, comparing favorably to the likes of the JVC DLA-RS-1, a PJ costing 2x as much.

But is a 7 year old Model...so ya gotta accept that you will be limited somewhat.

But take heart in knowing that you can get "Brand Nerw Performance" by purchasing a Replacement Lamp for only $149.99 ..............almost $260.00 less than it originally cost.

http://www.amazon.com/Projector-Panasonic-PT-AE2000U-165-Watt-Replacement/dp/B004AN21IC/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390962780&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Replacement+Projectror+Lamp+for+Panasonic+AE+2000u

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post #90 of 112 Old 01-28-2014, 07:20 PM
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Thx for the response. I only paid $200 so it's all good. Also there's only 800 hours on the PJ so no need for new lamp yet. Well not sure if thats on the lamp or on the PJ. Is there a way to see a difference? The one screen I found though said 800. All I know is my kids say its like watching 102" plasma tv smile.gif

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