First-time PJ owner here who needed a TAUT/rigid screen to hang in front of my existing 60" Kuro until I have my new dedicated space. After looking at the budget-minded $100 to $300 commercial offerings, I decided two things:
1. None of them seemed guaranteed to offer me the frame rigidity/screen uniformity I demanded.
2. Your mileage may vary of course, but most of them seemed slightly to very overpriced for their build quality/performance (yes, even at ~$150).
Looking at the cost/performance ratio of DIY screens, I knew I had to at least give it a try.
My goal here is not to reinvent the wheel with the construction, per se, just provide some feedback re my experience and results. Please ask questions or provide commentary as I'd appreciate the input.
VERY well-illuminated 15x14 living room with ample southern-exposed windows. As I said above, until I have a dedicated space, I need a screen that can hang in front of my existing display. This also limits the sheer size of what I can take on, as the both the screen itself and screen border (even if I went with the acoustically transparent route) would cause sonic issues. It took a bit of brain (and leg) work, but I rearranged this (all iphone pics, sorry you'll have to suffer):
to accommodate a larger screen. I now could fabricate an ~85" screen which is, handily, almost exactly TWICE the size of my 60".
PJ: Panasonic PT-AR100u. PLENTY of lumens and 5 star reviews all over the place.
22' of 1" x 3" $26 (but free for me, already laying around, lol)
4' x 8' sheet of hard board: $11
Quart of Flat SW 7071: $15
22' 3/4" trim: $20
25' of velvet adhesive tape: $10
roller/hanging hardware: $8
Call it ~$90 for joe six-pack.
Since I wanted a rigid screen that looked decent NOT hanging on or mounted directly to a wall, it seemed like a 1x3/4 constructed frame and a hardy board screen was mandatory, so that's the route I took.
With a "smaller" screen I deemed 1x3 with suitable corner and center bracing to be more than adequate. Sorry I do not have pic of my frame-job, my dum-ass deleted it off my phone. But after affixing the scuffed front-side hardboard, I was looking at this:
I then propped it like so to take the SW 7071:
I lightly hit the surface with some 320G before applying the 7071 with a quality foam-roller. Rolling off the surface and back-stepping just a single column, I can tell you to expect
EXCELLENT results on this surface, with this roller, and this paint. There is nary an imperfection to be found. It is true, fantastically even and uniform. I'm not saying this to beat my chest, I'm simply relaying it for those who are interested in (or timid about) getting superb results. Just take your time, be mindful of the paint you're putting on (and applying) off the roller, and I'm certain you'll enjoy comparable results.
Pictures of which I'll post later as I have to go for now...