Wilsonart - What is the actual/true size of the piece of laminate? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-27-2013, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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So I am going to brave the project of building my own screen. Even though I would rather just buy a screen, I have read enough great reviews about the Wilsonart DW and it will save me a ton. What I am wondering is if I should buy a 8ft or 10ft long section? I want a 110" screen (54"x96") and have read that the true measurment width wise of the 5x8 sheets is 61", I am wondering what the true length of the material is? I want to make sure if I order the 5x8 that the edges will be cut perfect at or a little over 96". It would actually be nice if it is cut square and perfect at 96" then I wont have to worry smile.gif Can anyone who has built comment on this please?
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post #2 of 15 Old 02-27-2013, 12:24 PM
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I just ordered a 4x8 a while back and it was 49" wide and a couple feet extra in length. I would stress a few things, make sure you get the thicker version, use metal studs/bracing, and created a solid surface to glue the entire panel down(ex. tack board). I also had a few issues cleaning it and over buffed a spot (which is slightly noticeable).
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post #3 of 15 Old 02-27-2013, 01:20 PM
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A 5 x 8 sheet should be 61 x 97. As for being "square & perfect", that's probably not going to happen. I work with this stuff every day for a living. My suggestion is build your frame at the 54 x 96 dimension, with a vertical support in the center. Use 1 x 3 poplar (it's straight and strong but light weight). You will need 2 pcs 91" long (top & bottom of frame), 2 pcs 54" long (ends of frame and 1 pc 49" long (vertical support) - 1x 3 is actually 3/4" x 2 1/2" finish size. Attach 2 pcs of 1/4" plywood 54 x 48 to the frame. The seam of the pieces should be on the vertical support. You can use the 5mm luan underlayment @ Home Depot or Lowe's. It's smoother and cheaper than most plywood.Lay the laminate face down and glue the back with contact cement (use a water base, it's not flammable and doesn't smell too bad - Home depot or Lowe's), then glue the face of the plywood. When both pieces are dry (15-20 minutes) to the touch, lay strips of cardboard over the plywood - this is to prevent premature sticking of the laminate! Have a helper available, flip the laminate face up, lay it on the card board and position it so you have about 1/2" overhang all the way around. Start in the center and pull out the cardboard a strip at a time. Rub down the laminate after you pull out the strip. Do this until all cardboard is removed. Trim the overhang with a router or file and you have a screen that will not bow, twist or sag. If you aren't comfortable with working the laminate, contact a local cabinet or top shop. I'm sure there is someone who wants to make some extra $$ and would do it for you. Be sure to use "Postforming" grade laminate. It's heavier (thicker) than vertical grade and will be less likely to crack or tear while you are working with it. I built a few like this over the past 5 years and they are all in use today with no issues. Good luck. PM if you have any questions.
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post #4 of 15 Old 02-27-2013, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow! Thanks for such detailed info. I was just going to use a large piece of pegboard or mdf and glue to that but this sounds a little more sophisticated but doable. I was thinkin of taking a shot and getting a 5x8 and hoping I dont screw anything up since I will only have 1/2" on either side to cut off.
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post #5 of 15 Old 02-27-2013, 04:27 PM
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MDF is heavy, pegboard can flex when you carry it which could crack the laminate. I know what I described may seem like overkill as far as some people are concerned, but like I said - no sag, no bowing, if it gets hit by an errant flying object it won't crack. $50 in wood & maybe $75 in laminate (that's about $2/sq.ft which is high) and you have a viable, almost indestructible screen.
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post #6 of 15 Old 02-28-2013, 06:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I am not handy by any means and my lazy self tells me to just buy the Elite screen @ $400 but if I can really save $200 and get something that is as good or better then I guess I'll try. I am hoping to enlist the help of another person so I think it could be doable. With the underlayment/plywood, do you recommend countersinking screws to attach the wood to the "frame" of 1x3s or do you use PL? Also, I am trying to think of how to built a nice frame to surround this screen and have a few ideas; Make the outer frame in 1x6 poplar to have extra wood to fix a 2" velvet frame to or build the screen on its own and find some kind of 1" or 1.25" trim to butt up to the screen flush.
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post #7 of 15 Old 02-28-2013, 06:54 AM
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To attach the underlayment, I used regular wood glue and a nail gun. (The nails are to hold it in place while the glue dries) The underlayment is too thin to countersink screws in, you can use PL, wood glue, LocTite or the adhesive of your choice. Get good coverage on the frame, set the underlayment in place, weight it down and let it dry. If you can find some short (1/2") finish nails, you can hammer them in by hand. As for a frame, making the frame bigger is a good idea, you just have to be precise when sticking the laminate. Here is a picture of my screen, (98" diagonal) built just the way I explained to you. The outer (black) frame is 1 x 4 preprimed flat stock from Lowe's. (I would use 1 x 3 next time, it's less bulky) I cut 1" pieces and made a "frame" 1/8" longer & taller that goes around the perimeter of the screen. It attaches to the back of the black frame and the whole thing goes over the screen and is a "friction fit". It is tight enough to stay put, but removable if I want to take it off. I have about $100 in lumber & glue, I had the laminate left from a job (Formica 949 white) but cost would be under $100. So yes, you can get a nice screen for under $200. There is also a link to my post that shows the screen "pre-frame" and a couple of screen shots. Not bad for counter top material.




http://www.avsforum.com/t/1435252/formica-949-screen#post_22517953
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post #8 of 15 Old 02-28-2013, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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If it were you, would you recommend the 5x8 or 5x10 sheet? I am thinking the 5x8 will work just fine if it comes a tad longer and not too badly cut.
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post #9 of 15 Old 02-28-2013, 08:45 PM
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Go with the 5 x 8. Be careful sticking it & you'll be fine.
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post #10 of 15 Old 03-13-2013, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally got around to making the frame and attaching the hardboard to it. I didn't put the laminate on because I am not sure if Lowe's sold me the right sheet or not...The stuff I got has a part number D354 350 60 on the back. I found out that the Type 350 is considered postforming type which is what you descibed above but I read a few other builds which said Type 170 is the correct thickness. I am assuming the Type 350 is the right stuff like you said?
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post #11 of 15 Old 03-25-2013, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I finally got it finished and hung. I still need to trim the laminate about another 1/2 in height as I oversized it and to me it looks funny with no image displayed all the way to the edge. Trimming the laminate with a box cutter was very easy. I clamped a straight edge on each end and ran the blad against it about 3 times and the break was effortless and clean. I will definitely say the picture is much brighter and colors look a little more vivid. I would like to get my 8350 calibrated in with the screen but so far I am happy with the cost savings. I thought the screen looked great being displayed on the wall and would be curious what a difference between this and a painted screen would look like. Overall I would definitely recommend this to anyone looking at purchasing a fixed screen that is over $200.
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post #12 of 15 Old 03-27-2013, 03:44 PM
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Glad you got it put together and hung. How about a couple of pics? One of the screen itself and one (at least) of an image on it.
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post #13 of 15 Old 05-03-2013, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tshepp View Post

So I am going to brave the project of building my own screen. Even though I would rather just buy a screen, I have read enough great reviews about the Wilsonart DW and it will save me a ton. What I am wondering is if I should buy a 8ft or 10ft long section? I want a 110" screen (54"x96") and have read that the true measurment width wise of the 5x8 sheets is 61", I am wondering what the true length of the material is? I want to make sure if I order the 5x8 that the edges will be cut perfect at or a little over 96". It would actually be nice if it is cut square and perfect at 96" then I wont have to worry smile.gif Can anyone who has built comment on this please?
I used a Wilson art laminate fashion grey and bordered it and boy does it look awesome. I spent about 125 in materials.
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post #14 of 15 Old 05-03-2013, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmartinez3825 View Post

I used a Wilson art laminate fashion grey and bordered it and boy does it look awesome. I spent about 125 in materials.
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post #15 of 15 Old 05-03-2013, 12:08 PM
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I used the 5x10. The screen is 122 inches diagonally and I am running a Epson 5020ub on it. The picture just pops out.
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