Valspar cinema screen paint...or something else? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 03-05-2013, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Recently purchased an InFocus X9 projector to replace a dead 32 inch LCD tv. Chose a quick and dirty solution as a temporary screen: a vinyl black-out roller shade *sacrilege I know!* Now I've been lurking the forums putting together some information for putting together my own screen from scratch. I've decided on a 1x2 frame which I've already constructed with the dimensions of 36x64. For now I cut down the vinyl material and wrapped it around my frame. The picture quality is pretty decent for the material I'm projecting on but the wrinkles are killing both my wife and I. I'm planning to buy a 4x8 piece of unfinished hardboard to use as a substrate which will be cut to size and glued to my existing frame after removing the current vinyl material. My question is what do you folks think of the following paint:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_93679-4-700117CINEMASCREEN_0__?productId=3324174

It's a satin finish so I'm assuming that hotspotting may be an issue? Also would it be best to just put this on my substrate material with or without a coat of primer first? Or could someone possibly suggest a better paint solution which I can purchase at Lowes? I'd really prefer a white color as it seems to do fine on my current set up. My wife works at our local Lowes store so we get a discount which is why I'm deadset on getting my supplies at this particular store. Any help or suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.
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post #2 of 24 Old 03-05-2013, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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The current rednecked setup (gimme a break we're poor biggrin.gif):











As you can see my screen has begun wrinkling (it was nice and tight and wrinkle free the first day after I constructed it but the vinyl material is settling and starting to wrinkle making it one of the worst choices for a screen).
I'm also planning on building a pvc freestanding apparatus for the screen to hang on. Every time the heat/air kicks on or there's any air movement in our studio style apartment this thing sways like a drunkard on a sea boat...
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post #3 of 24 Old 03-05-2013, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digideadus View Post

I'm planning to buy a 4x8 piece of unfinished hardboard to use as a substrate which will be cut to size and glued to my existing frame after removing the current vinyl material. My question is what do you folks think of the following paint:

http://www.lowes.co/pd_93679-4-700117CINEMASCREEN_0__?productId=3324174

It's a satin finish so I'm assuming that hotspotting may be an issue? Also would it be best to just put this on my substrate material with or without a coat of primer first? Or could someone possibly suggest a better paint solution which I can purchase at Lowes? I'd really prefer a white color as it seems to do fine on my current set up. My wife works at our local Lowes store so we get a discount which is why I'm deadset on getting my supplies at this particular store. Any help or suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.

So Ok...first things first...Welcome to AVS's DIY Screen Forum!

Well much like Behr has a somewhat obscure paint color called "Silver Screen", the paint you listed is merely "called" Cinema Screen because it's a very light, off-white paint, supposedly close in appearance to a real "Cinema Screen".

It would be comical if there wasn't the off chance it might be something. The primary thing wrong is the Satin sheen. Now, if this was simply going on a wall as a decor, a Satin that is applied to a very smooth wall looks pretty spiffy....decor-wise.
Suppose, just for poop and chuckles...you asked for that shade / color in a Flat Enamel. It would then be about as good a choice as it could possibly be....without choosing anything else. biggrin.gif

Seriously....getting a gallon (...you'll need more than 1 quart and 2 Qts cost as much a gallon...) and painting a "White" smooth substrate with the paint, sans Primer, is going to be as easy and cost effective as you can hope for.. If instead it was Drywall, then Priming would be a must.

Your own use and review of this new find "Cinema Screen" might lead it to be considered the simple,white "Lowes" version of Home Depot's Behr Silver Screen.

It might be the "Next Big Thing". eek.gifrolleyes.giftongue.gifbiggrin.gifwink.gif

Really though...you can dumb down the process and still get good results. Not spectacular...but better than you probably expect. Advanced applications can and do help perceived contrast, color saturation, and detail, as well as provide real ambient light view-ability, but they come in at higher cost and some specific application requirements. Like spraying instead of rolling. However, if you go Flat Enamel you shoulld have no concerns about settling on rolling the surface.

Somehow I see you as being "Roller oriented"? Please let me know if I'm wrong and you have read about the positive aspects of spraying. wink.gif

Take a jaunt up to the top of the DIY Screens Thread Listings Page and click in the "Beginners Guide to Simple DIY Screens" sticky. http://www.avsforum.com/t/929997/beginners-guide-to-simple-diy-painted-screens

Look for the Neutral Grays and choose the lightest of the bunch.
(...At least try to help that 'ol X9 out a bit! It could look so much better than you can imagine! )
http://www.avsforum.com/t/929997/beginners-guide-to-simple-diy-painted-screens/60#post_12107524
http://cdn.avsforum.com/9/90/900ddb57_vbattach93844.jpeg

Read and follow the Rolling instructions: (...the smaller Rollers are ideal for rolling onto White Melamine Coated Hardboard..)
http://www.avsforum.com/t/929997/beginners-guide-to-simple-diy-painted-screens#post_12089330
http://www.avsforum.com/t/929997/beginners-guide-to-simple-diy-painted-screens#post_12089399

Just do it.
(clever, eh?)
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post #4 of 24 Old 03-05-2013, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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So if I can get it in a flat I should give it a try I'll take it? (Forgive me I'm a bit "slow on the uptake" at times). I guess best bet would be to buy a sample and do a test panel. Spraying may be an option. Our studio apartment sits atop a 400 square foot garage which is at my disposal for DIY work. I've also got a very large compressor at my disposal. What kind of gun would you suggest for latex based paint? The reason I ask is my Dad used to be a body man and has alot of spray guns in said garage, but I'm not sure if you can run latex through something typically used to spray cars. If you can then there's no reason that I can't go that route, and I'm sure he'd be glad to help me out and teach me to spray with one too. I'm always up for learning something new. Thanks for pointing me in the direction of some much needed information, looks like I've got some reading to do this afternoon! smile.gif
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post #5 of 24 Old 03-05-2013, 02:37 PM
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If he has the gear:

1. - HVLP Gun w/1.5mm Needle Should have a Pressure Valve at the Gun (set to 45 psi) Tank set to recycle if pressure falls below 85 lbs

2. A GOOD Water / Rust Filter located at the outlet of the Tank.

3. Any Gun that has survived use with Oil / Pertroleum Based Enamels and Acrylics can easily deal with water-thinned Latex.

4. Practice makes perfect. Read about how much to Thin the paint, what to look for while it is straining through a Nylon "Sock" strainer. And absolutely read about and practice the Duster method of painting.
(Dad should know what I'm talking about.....only in the case of spraying a Screen one does not go "back and forth" but only in one direction, dropping a fraction of the previous Row height (25% and return the other direction....and so on and so on until you reach the bottom. Also, be sure your first row starts with fully 1/2 the vertical spray pattern above the screen's paint-able surface, and you end the last row with 50% of the pattern below. Lastly, the edges of the screen should have as "flush as possible" union with either Plastic or Cardboard so the paint will settle evenly along the edge. If not..."Vortexing" along the edge will prevent an even coating.
(When someone paints the edges of Fenders, they always add a Paper edge to prevent Vortexing...just ask Daddio. cool.gif )

Any questions, bring 'em here before you start squirtin'.

A really wise decision to spray. While rolling can under ideally done circumstances and skill, be a very quality surface, spraying is even more assurance of getting a nearly perfect surface.

Oh yeah...answering your 1st question.....:You CAN get it in a Flat, so yeah....give it a shot. Since I didn't expect a sprayed effort out of ya, I'm pretty much content to let you try this out.

Pretty much....so don't ask for any more info that you can consider 'cause you'll get it....... cool.gif
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post #6 of 24 Old 03-05-2013, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you for the detailed information! Now I've got a better idea of what this little project is going to entail. Will post back with my results as I delve deeper into the project.
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post #7 of 24 Old 03-05-2013, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm also open to "any more info to consider" whilst under taking this project as I'm still in the planning and contemplating stages of development wink.gif My wife says I over think everything but I figure that's kinda a good thing...right?
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post #8 of 24 Old 03-05-2013, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digideadus View Post

I'm also open to "any more info to consider" whilst under taking this project as I'm still in the planning and contemplating stages of development wink.gif My wife says I over think everything but I figure that's kinda a good thing...right?

Just let us do the overthinkin'.....that way it's all on our shoulders. biggrin.gif

Stay tuned.....

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post #9 of 24 Old 03-06-2013, 05:57 AM
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Im painting my screen also, just got done with the first coat on my wall. Its a 163 inch screen. Im using a gallon of sherwin williams extra white smooth enamel in satin.

Its 50 bucks a gallon. Seem its going to take a quart per coat.

Looks really good after the first coat. Gonna put 3 more coats on.
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post #10 of 24 Old 03-06-2013, 06:51 AM
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The larger the screen, the more ability for being able to employ a small amount of Sheen. Satin can fill that bill, but still, if rolled it can be iffy if the PJ itself has appreciable lumen output.

Such use of sheen is usually better confined to those who have lower lumen PJs or plan to watch content on a "big" Screen on low lamp.

Let us all know how well the use of Satin worked out for you, jessestylex

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post #11 of 24 Old 03-07-2013, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Well...I ran into several problems with my project...so I went to town and swiped some BOC from Hancock's Fabric store and the wife and I stretched it over the frame as tight as we could. Not quite Wrinkle free because the fabric I bought was at the end of the roll but once the projector is on this time it's not even slightly noticeable so we're rocking steady now. Going to blow dry the wrinkled spots carefully in hopes of alleviating them, may even take a steamer to them. Anyhow thanks for the advice and time Mississippi Man!


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post #12 of 24 Old 03-15-2013, 03:43 PM
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In line with Mississippi Man's advice, I thought I'd give this a slight bump just to provide some additional info. I've been painting and faux finishing for over 15 years and have used many different tools and coatings products. Just in case you decide to go back to the paint and roll method, you can purchase a mohair roller that has such a short nap you will see almost no stipple and can nearly provide a sprayed appearance, much like a quality foam roller, except mohair allows to apply more product evenly.

Another factor is the paint as many consumer paints will not level very well. However, if you use a good quality acrylic paint with the right roller cover, you can achieve excellent results. I have a few airless sprayers and have used many HVLP and air assist units, but have used the quality paint/mohair (or similar) cover method instead in some situations.

I bought some BOC over a year ago but never had time to mess with it so I'm actually going to paint my own 'screen' in the near future thanks to some color recommendations by MSMan.

Take care!

Jeremy
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post #13 of 24 Old 03-20-2013, 01:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information and advice niceguy88. Ended up getting access to a truck this morning and bought the materials for my hardboard build. I will be rolling the paint rather than spraying as I ran into some complications with being able to go that route. So I took the BOC and frame down a few hours ago and spent a couple of hours working on a freestanding pvc frame for my wooden frame and brown hardboard substrate to attach to. Turned out great, even ended up perfectly level without using a level during the building process. Not too bad for a first try I guess wink.gif I was also fortunate enough to get an 8 oz. sample of Behr silver screen paint yesterday and painted a test panel and my wife and I really liked how the projector looked on that paint. She's attempting to have Lowes color match that today so *crosses fingers* hopefully I can use that color in Valspar brand. If not I'm going to go with the Valspar Cinema Screen color and see how it goes. After all it is paint, and I can always do Behr Silverscren later if the Valspar isn't cutting it, or if they aren't able to color match that formula properly. If it turns out as good as I expect: Stay tuned for pictures, build plans, and the finished project should anyone else be interested in going this route.
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post #14 of 24 Old 03-21-2013, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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*Update* Cut the tempered hardboard late last night to the size of the wooden 2x2 frame I glued it to yesterday afternoon which measures 36 x 64 inches. This produces about a 75 inch diagonal screen with my projector about 10 feet from the screen. Used a razor blade to score it on all 4 sides which only took about 20 minutes, then it broke off perfectly even with the frame. Much cleaner cut and easier than messing with a jigsaw. Attached it to my freestanding PVC frame and got it set up in our apartment last night. Draped the BOC back over it so we could watch a movie last night, wrinkly as all get out, but it worked to keep us entertained for a bit. Woke up early this morning and put my first coat of paint on (for the base coat I used 8 oz. of Behr Silverscreen which covered my 36x64 inch substrate perfectly). Lowes was able to pull up the Behr Silverscreen formula in their computer giving me a perfect match in flat latex but in Valspar brand. Cost about $14 for a quart, which is a bit more than I need but I'd rather have too much than not enough. So far it's looking REALLY good with one coat of paint. I plan to do 2 more coats as today progresses hopefully. I ended up using a 3" foam roller which seemed to work perfect. The freestanding PVC frame I made is working perfectly as well. Won't really know how the actual painted screen turned out until tonight when we can give it a good test with various Blu Rays and Video Games. If it all turns out as well as I'm expecting I'll write up plans and provide detailed descriptions and pictures for anyone interested in doing a similar build sometime tomorrow. biggrin.gifcool.gif We're Rocking steady now. Very excited to wrap this up.
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post #15 of 24 Old 03-22-2013, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Turns out I only needed 2 coats of paint for perfect coverage. There are a few slight imperfections but nothing that is noticeable when projecting. The paint works so well that we can watch a movie with all the lights on, or with all of the windows open on a sunny day. I have to say I am beyond impressed. I will be creating a new thread with build plans shortly for those interested in parts and methods used to build my freestanding PVC frame and hardboard screen.
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post #16 of 24 Old 03-22-2013, 11:12 AM
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Nice thing about painting....if it looks good "fresh"...it's only going to get better looking as it cures out and the surface tightens up and becomes more reflective.

Your on a "roll" now...(...horrible pun, that...)

DIY'ism at work! cool.gif
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post #17 of 24 Old 03-22-2013, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Fully agreed, it's looking even better today. biggrin.gif
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post #18 of 24 Old 03-22-2013, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the finished product. I'm toying with the idea of painting the PVC pipes black for the side overspill, and attaching 2 black 1 x 3 to the PVC frame (one to the top and one to the bottom of the screen). To give it that "authentic" Home theater look and help with the perceived viewing experience. I'm also going to plug those ugly side access holes for my bolts on the PVC by wrapping them in black Duct tape once the PVC is painted black. Should make the build look much better. Again thanks for all the advice it really helped the build go smooth.
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post #19 of 24 Old 03-22-2013, 04:28 PM
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Gaaaa!!! Don't use 1x3 ! Too Tall at the edges.

Use 1/2" x 3.25" Mdf Base Trim. Home Depot or Lowes. Lowes has some that has no "Molding" cut and has a smooth curve on one edge. That's the Bomb, especially if they have a Cut Station so you can get it in needed lengths.
Sadly, not all Lowes do. Home depot does, however, and if you examine the photos on this Thread:

.avsforum.com/t/865218/wrapping-black-velvet-on-trim-with-mitered-or-butt-joined-ends

......you see the type to get.

Primed 3.25" Mdf Base. $0.60 ft.

If you feel you want to settle for paint instead of velvet, at HD ask for /use"

Disneys Mouse Ears in a Satin Enamel

Use a heavy nap Roller to apply so you leave a rougher coat.



Black Velvet is Da Bomb though.... http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Velvet/681/264.
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post #20 of 24 Old 03-22-2013, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Black Velvet, eh? In that case I'll be picking that up instead. Also should be able to get the base trim without issue from Lowes but I'm not sure if they've got a cutting station that will do mdf, as I've been told they do not a couple of times before. Of course that was larger shelving style mdf so that could be handled differently in their cutting station. They also couldn't cut the tempered hardboard I used for this build, which is why the build was delayed a couple weeks. My wife is employed at Lowes though so I'll have her ask in the morning. Thanks for the information, it's really making the build go super smooth.
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post #21 of 24 Old 03-22-2013, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Not sure why I didn't think of this earlier but I'm also going to get some 1" plastic black knockout plugs to plug the 1" holes in the side of the pvc where I made access holes for my machine bolts rather than using black duct tape to cover them up.
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post #22 of 24 Old 03-22-2013, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I assume this is the Lowes version? If so I can easily haul it in the 8 foot sections in my PT cruiser with the seats laid down. Once I get it home I can also cut it without issue as I have access to a compound saw in our "wood shop".

http://www.lowes.com/pd_29946-1487-623+8FBDPM_4294934297__?productId=3041642&Ntt=base+trim&Ns=p_product_price|0
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post #23 of 24 Old 03-23-2013, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digideadus View Post

I assume this is the Lowes version? If so I can easily haul it in the 8 foot sections in my PT cruiser with the seats laid down. Once I get it home I can also cut it without issue as I have access to a compound saw in our "wood shop".

http://www.lowes.com/pd_29946-1487-623+8FBDPM_4294934297__?productId=3041642&Ntt=base+trim&Ns=p_product_price|0

That stuff will work, and I'm glad you can do "Miter Cuts" as they do look better, and are a necessity when using "edge Detail" base as the corners cannot be "Butted".

When you get to Lowes, look for the type Base that has no Detail Cut on one edge. Just a simple Curve.

Lastly, cut and position the low edge inward and against the screen, so that the inward edge drops down to be almost Flush with the screen's level.
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post #24 of 24 Old 03-23-2013, 07:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Sounds good, I'll give it a go as soon as I have a chance to ride to town and pick up the supplies.
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