Best white paint selection for painting on wall. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-15-2013, 09:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey all, long follower on AVS but just not delving into DIY screen sections. I'm looking for an inexpensive solution for wall paint that will likely be temporary until I can build/buy a screen. My wall does have some imperfections so I want to eventually build or purchase one to hang but that isn't going to meet my current time deadline or budget right now.

I have a basement room I'm finishing out. I have complete light control in the basement, a flat black ceiling and will have a low sheen darker grey sidewall. I prefer white over grey since to my eyes it seems to have more "pop" even when calibrated. I have a Sony VPL-HW50ES projector and am looking to project a 110" diagonal image. I can supply photos if necessary. Ideally I'd like to achieve a slight gain as I'll be watching 3D as well.

Does anyone have a suggested paint I can pick up or a mix I can start with that I can get locally?

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post #2 of 10 Old 03-15-2013, 10:50 AM
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Sounds like simply getting a Bright White paint in a "Flat Enamel" might be your best, quickest, and simplest solution.

Look to the "Beginner's Guide to Simple DIY Screens" sticky here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/929997/beginners-guide-to-simple-diy-painted-screens

............for several choices

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post #3 of 10 Old 03-16-2013, 04:06 PM
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I was in a very similar situation a few weeks back. I painted a temporary screen using Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White, # B20 W 51. It was about $25 for a quart which painted my 120" screen with two coats. I primed the area with two coats of primer first and am very happy with the results. I think with the rollers, paint and primer, I walked out the door for about $45. This is my first projector and so I can't compare to anything, so YMMV.
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-16-2013, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigSlade View Post

I was in a very similar situation a few weeks back. I painted a temporary screen using Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White, # B20 W 51. It was about $25 for a quart which painted my 120" screen with two coats. I primed the area with two coats of primer first and am very happy with the results. I think with the rollers, paint and primer, I walked out the door for about $45. This is my first projector and so I can't compare to anything, so YMMV.

What PJ are you using, and how is it mounted?

It's important to make note of since the same paint in a Satin has had many reports of hot spotting and/or sheen. There is a "correct" type to get, and last I heard it was supposed to be a Flat.

With the right choice, it is a well proven choice for certain....just darn expensive if you need at least 2 quarts. You seem to have gotten it nailed down though...a good job priming does make considerable difference, and $45.00 ain't bad by any stretch.

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post #5 of 10 Old 03-16-2013, 07:53 PM
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I also just got done with my screen using Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White. it looks great but it is showing a hot spot or glare from the projector light. what ever it's called.

it's pretty noticeable in bright scenes. im using a short throw projector mounted on the ceiling 9 feet from the wall. (160" screen) I just hate that thats the only flaw in my setup. since my room is dark, I may just go with a flat silver screen paint. I hate that i spent $50 for 1 gallon on that Sherwin-Williams ProClassic and ended up with a hot spot.

I would not recommend Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Satin if your set up is going to be like mine.
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-16-2013, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessestylex View Post

I also just got done with my screen using Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamel Satin Extra White. it looks great but it is showing a hot spot or glare from the projector light. what ever it's called.

it's pretty noticeable in bright scenes. im using a short throw projector mounted on the ceiling 9 feet from the wall. (160" screen) I just hate that thats the only flaw in my setup. since my room is dark, I may just go with a flat silver screen paint. I hate that i spent $50 for 1 gallon on that Sherwin-Williams ProClassic and ended up with a hot spot.

I would not recommend Sherwin-Williams ProClassic Satin if your set up is going to be like mine.

It may seem like heresy to a few, but the simple addition of some of the recommended SW or Valspar paints in a Flat White Acrylic Latex (1 Quart to 4 Quarts in this instance) is all that is needed to alleviate the issue. How much of the original Gallon of SW do you have left?

Of course all this is a big "after the fact" there.......sorry about that. redface.gif

As for using a Silver Gray instead, do that right and coat that white base with a semi-translucent Silvered Gray and you'll be exactly where you always should have been. wink.gif

You a'Rollin' or a'Sprayin'? Dependent upon that, and what you have left in paint, you might be closer to a viable fix without much extra effort and additional expense that you realize.

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post #7 of 10 Old 03-17-2013, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

It may seem like heresy to a few, but the simple addition of some of the recommended SW or Valspar paints in a Flat White Acrylic Latex (1 Quart to 4 Quarts in this instance) is all that is needed to alleviate the issue. How much of the original Gallon of SW do you have left?

Of course all this is a big "after the fact" there.......sorry about that. redface.gif

As for using a Silver Gray instead, do that right and coat that white base with a semi-translucent Silvered Gray and you'll be exactly where you always should have been. wink.gif

You a'Rollin' or a'Sprayin'? Dependent upon that, and what you have left in paint, you might be closer to a viable fix without much extra effort and additional expense that you realize.


I only have about a cup of the paint left. i put on 3 coats and it took the whole gallon pretty much. I rolled it on using a 3/16 foam roller cover. are you saying i could roll on some gray without completely covering the white? what semi-translucent Silvered Gray should I use? thanks.
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-17-2013, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessestylex View Post

I only have about a cup of the paint left. i put on 3 coats and it took the whole gallon pretty much. I rolled it on using a 3/16 foam roller cover. are you saying i could roll on some gray without completely covering the white? what semi-translucent Silvered Gray should I use? thanks.

No...what I mean is that the "Top Coat", while going on heavy enough over several thin layers so as to look completely uniform in color, is still just translucent enough to allow projected light to react to the lighter base color already there...and that will help maintain a brighter image while using a Gray surface than otherwise would be possible.

You can use the remaining paint as part of a new Mix. Since Rolling seems to be your forte', I suggest you go with RS-MaxxMudd LL. It hasx the gain your looking for....the ability to boost perceived contrast, and it's shade of Gray (...derived from a blend of Silver and Pearl...) is still light enough that you should have no trouble with blending it in over the existing bright white surface.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1319717/the-official-rs-maxxmudd-v-2-mix

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post #9 of 10 Old 03-17-2013, 11:57 AM
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Thanks. I looked online at home depot and lowes and cant find the Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl. Seen it on amazon for $35 where can I get it local?
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-17-2013, 03:47 PM
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if you're east of the mississippi...
only Menard's carries it locally.
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