painting today in case anyone wants to help me make certain I don't screw up!!! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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wall is mudded, and taped off.

getting ready to prime. using bullseye 123.


should I use my mixer on the primer?
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 05:57 AM - Thread Starter
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*squirrel cage mixer
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 05:58 AM - Thread Starter
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also, how long between primer coats? was it 30 - 40 min? or just until the surface is room temp?
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmicronix View Post

*squirrel cage mixer

Always a good idea, and absolutely so if thinning Primer with water for spraying.

Bullseye primer is Thinner out of the can that Kilz2, so if your rolling, effective stirring (at slow speed) helps disperse any clumps that might be in the paint.
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also, how long between primer coats? was it 30 - 40 min? or just until the surface is room temp?

If spraying...30-40 min. Rolling...at least the 1 hour as recommended. No matter how you apply it, the safest judgement is made when the surface no longer feels "cool".

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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I am spraying.

should I add water right out of the gate? or see how it's coming out? how will I know?

ps, I've done more homework on existing threads this time as to circumvent mind numbing redundancy smile.gif
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
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right now i'm sanding. it's taking longer than I thought to get it BB smooth.
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmicronix View Post

right now i'm sanding. it's taking longer than I thought to get it BB smooth.

correction....MUCH longer. done sanding...finally.


what flow setting should I have the trigger governer set at?

as for the spray nozzle...I'm guessing that I want to have it set to a narrow, vertical stream...correct?
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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ps, do I have to strain the primer?
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 03:00 PM
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Yes
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post #10 of 21 Old 03-23-2013, 06:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes


thanks! on more...when priming or applying maxx mudd, do I have to do anything between coats such as cleaning the the spray nozzle...or remixing?


also, I'm still not sure what settings the sprayer should be on for the tip shape and the flow amount.
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post #11 of 21 Old 03-24-2013, 01:41 AM
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Have a look at this post and MMs post wink.gif
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post #12 of 21 Old 03-24-2013, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmicronix View Post

thanks! on more...when priming or applying maxx mudd, do I have to do anything between coats such as cleaning the the spray nozzle...or remixing?


also, I'm still not sure what settings the sprayer should be on for the tip shape and the flow amount.


Most tips that are 2.0 mm to 1.5mm should be ran "Wide Open" and the flow amount controlled by distance from the surface and the speed across the surface.

The strength of the Gun's output also has an effect. A Wagner Control Spray Max has almost 2x the output of a Graco 2900, so both speed and distance is adjusted accordingly.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #13 of 21 Old 03-24-2013, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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after priming, I'm noticing a few air bubbles are still evident in my mud. I was hoping...very optimistically...that doing 3-4 primer coats would fill the bubble holes. they are stil lthere in full force.

I'm thinking spackle the holes...re-prime the affected areas, then spray my max mudd.
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post #14 of 21 Old 03-24-2013, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmicronix View Post

after priming, I'm noticing a few air bubbles are still evident in my mud. I was hoping...very optimistically...that doing 3-4 primer coats would fill the bubble holes. they are stil lthere in full force.

I'm thinking spackle the holes...re-prime the affected areas, then spray my max mudd.

You are talking about Drywall Compound "Mud" correct?

You have to lightly sand the affected areas, wipe them clean with a damp cloth, and apply only a very small amount of "Mud" to the "hole-y" areas. Just enough to fill the holes. Apply too much and all you do is trap air in the holes and it bubbles out as the "Mud" shrinks as the Primer you apply gets the "Mud" wet on the surface, and then the air is drawn up / out as it dries.

Let the "Mud applied-to" areas completely dry....then repeat. Then prime with very light coats, letting each dry completely to avoid excessive re-wetting of the underlying "Mud".

DO NOT USE SPACKLE !! It has a different texture than "Mud" and will not blend easily, if at all. Spackle is good for filling a hole, but only to a point. Afterward, you should sand Spackle and then apply a skim of "mud" to equalize out the appearance.

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #15 of 21 Old 03-25-2013, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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ok, the holes appear to be corrected. now I'm repriming. I kind of feel like my (new) first prime coat went on to heavy. I'm seeing some 'rippling' in the surface. I'm guessing one of the following is to blame:

- too much water, leading to faster spray rate.
- standing too close
- going too slow.


I'm thinking I will prime 2 more coats, allow that to dry, sand out the ripples, then move to my maxx mudd coats. sound about right?
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post #16 of 21 Old 03-25-2013, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmicronix View Post

ok, the holes appear to be corrected. now I'm repriming. I kind of feel like my (new) first prime coat went on to heavy. I'm seeing some 'rippling' in the surface. I'm guessing one of the following is to blame:

- too much water, leading to faster spray rate.
- standing too close
- going too slow.

As for the three reasons, they all are linked.

A very thin paint? Just move faster and from a slighter greater distance.

Standing too close? Hmmmmm.................how about stepping back a little?

Going too slow? Speed up.....OK?

Very thin paint + standing too close+ going to slow = a serous case of SOOL syndrome.

Remember, the best finishes go on as successively applied thin coats.

Quote:
I'm thinking I will prime 2 more coats, allow that to dry, sand out the ripples, then move to my maxx mudd coats. sound about right?
No,No,No,No,No,No,No,No,............................, sand out the ripples first! You don't want to build up paint over a mistake, or you'll have to sand down to the mistake anyway.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
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post #17 of 21 Old 03-25-2013, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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this is my 3rd coat of maxx mudd. I sanded the primer down before applying my first coat of maxx mudd.

this is pretty up close...camera is about 2" from the screen surface.


my first 2 coats were quick dusters. for the 3rd coat, I tried to mimmick what you did on your 2nd duster in your video (the one w/ the edge lit screen)



is it normal to have this much texture?
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post #18 of 21 Old 03-25-2013, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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here's my 4th coat while still wet. you can see the speckling

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post #19 of 21 Old 03-25-2013, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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again, this is VERY close up. kind of makes it look worse than it is.
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post #20 of 21 Old 03-25-2013, 09:19 PM
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that doesn't appear to be bad.
personally i'd like sweep sand it with a fine 3m sanding sponge then put on a couple more dusters.
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post #21 of 21 Old 03-26-2013, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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that's what I was thinking. thanks!
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