Screen Build for Benq W1070 using Silverfire - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 99 Old 04-12-2013, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello All,

I recently purchased my first projector, Benq W1070, based on the glowing reviews over in the Projector threads. I am truly amazed at the quality of picture! I have been reading this DIY forum for many months now trying to decide what the best option would be regarding a screen. I would not call myself a handyman by any means but I definitely like the idea of DIY(and the $$$ savings). I recently painted the room a shade of Blue and will be painting the wall behind the screen a flat version of that once the screen is complete. Front speakers are on temp stands until i get my new ones and mount them to the wall. The room is pretty much light controlled and will usually be viewed with the lights off.

Based on suggestions in other threads for this PJ, I have decided to go the Sintra route with a Silverfire v2.5 3.0 paint over it. I purchased all the needed paints, accessories and the Graco HVLP as recommended. I got a piece of PVC Board(same as Sintra) cut to 60x106 from Laird Plastics yesterday(Thanks MississippiMan for the help on this one!!!!). I am also planning to use 2 of the Hangman French cleats to hang it on the wall.

Here is a basic list of my steps for the whole process and would love if you guys could review it and correct any wrongs. I also have some questions on a few things.

1. Mounted PJ at desired distance to get 120” screen size – 11ft5in.
2. Create screen frame from 1x4 Poplar at 62x108 to give two inches extra past the mount of the PVC for the Border. Going to paint the frame black since you will see it from the side when entering the room. Is my size correct?
3. Mount PVC Board to Frame 1.5inches from edge of frame. Was originally thinking of using 5/8in screws but have seen adhesive as a recommendation. Is one better than the other? Or should both be used? What adhesive is best?
4. Paint PVC with SF v2.5 3.0. Am I right on the 3.0 or should i go with 4.0? Should I paint this in my garage or down in the basement mounted on the wall it will be on?
5. Wrap MDF base trim in velvet (following MM’s thread). Is 4 yards enough for a 120” screen? Based on the measurements, the mdf will overlap 1in on the screen and a half inch over the outer edge. Am I correct? I am trying to refrain from any long cuts, as I don’t have a table saw. I have a standard mitre box to handle the corners. I was thinking of this trim http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203910928?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051&N=5yc1vZara1Z1z0wixeZ1z0wixe&R=203910928#.UWiVVSs6X0A

I do have some questions though being that this is 100% new to me.

1. When mixing the SF paint, I saw that many use a large syringe to measure the colorants and use the distilled water so that it doesn’t stick to whatever mixing cup/bowl. What about the rest of the components? I was thinking of just grabbing a measuring cup from the kitchen for the large components. Do you need to factor a little more of each component to account for any that doesn’t come out of the measuring cup? Or Do you use some more of the distilled water to get all the base colors
2. The wall this is being mounted on is not straight by any means unfortunately. This is the main reason I am not just mounting the PVC to the wall directly. The left side of the screen will need to be shimmed away from the wall to make it square. Are there any techniques or any help that can be provided to shim this? I have a feeling this is going to be the hardest part of all of this as it gradually slopes away from the center.
3. Is it a necessity to paint the ceiling? What color? Mickey Mouse Ears Flat black? This one is a tough sell for the wife as she doesn’t want it to look stupid or “dirty” as flat black can tend to look.


I have followed many threads but found this build thread to be very helpful as I am a bit of a picture learner. Naturally I will be doing a few things different but the main structure is similar. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1303114/amazing-grace-theater-build
Got the Paint for Silverfire v2.5 3.0
Front wall with temp speaker placement
Rear Wall
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post #2 of 99 Old 04-12-2013, 11:26 PM
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Hey Mississippi man... This one is right up your alley. eek.gif
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post #3 of 99 Old 04-13-2013, 07:11 AM
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All I had to do was to crawl out of my Cardboard Box......,
Quote:
Originally Posted by tza88 View Post

Hello All,

I recently purchased my first projector, Benq W1070, based on the glowing reviews over in the Projector threads. I am truly amazed at the quality of picture! I have been reading this DIY forum for many months now trying to decide what the best option would be regarding a screen. I would not call myself a handyman by any means but I definitely like the idea of DIY(and the $$$ savings). I recently painted the room a shade of Blue and will be painting the wall behind the screen a flat version of that once the screen is complete. Front speakers are on temp stands until i get my new ones and mount them to the wall. The room is pretty much light controlled and will usually be viewed with the lights off.

Based on suggestions in other threads for this PJ, I have decided to go the Sintra route with a Silverfire v2.5 3.0 paint over it. I purchased all the needed paints, accessories and the Graco HVLP as recommended. I got a piece of PVC Board(same as Sintra) cut to 60x106 from Laird Plastics yesterday(Thanks MississippiMan for the help on this one!!!!). I am also planning to use 2 of the Hangman French cleats to hang it on the wall.

Here is a basic list of my steps for the whole process and would love if you guys could review it and correct any wrongs. I also have some questions on a few things.

1. Mounted PJ at desired distance to get 120” screen size – 11ft5in. (...11 feet...and you have to restrict yourself to 118" diagonal.)

2. Create screen frame from 1x4 Poplar at 62x108 to give two inches extra past the mount of the PVC for the Border. Going to paint the frame black since you will see it from the side when entering the room. Is my size correct? NOPE. You have to shoot for 118" diagonal if your going to "cover" the edges of the Sintra, not "Butt up" against the edges. Sintra is cut to 60" x 106" so the Exterior Dimensions of Frame 64" x 110" ...Trim will cover 3" of Frame & Sintra (1")

3. Mount PVC Board to Frame 1.5inches from edge of frame. Was originally thinking of using 5/8in screws but have seen adhesive as a recommendation. Is one better than the other? Or should both be used? What adhesive is best? Mount Sintra 2" from outside edge. Use Glue, but you can use Truss Head "Pointed" Screws to secure within the 1" "to be covered" edge area of the Sintra. Use Water based Power Grab

4. Paint PVC with SF v2.5 3.0. Am I right on the 3.0 or should i go with 4.0? Should I paint this in my garage or down in the basement mounted on the wall it will be on? It is always best to paint the Screen in place. Carrying risks smudging, and working with it to hang it up becomes more difficult.

5. Wrap MDF base trim in velvet (following MM’s thread). Is 4 yards enough for a 120” screen? YES Based on the measurements, the mdf will overlap 1in on the screen and a half inch over the outer edge. Am I correct? Nope.3.25" Trim will lay 2.25" outside screen area, and only 1' inside Sintra area. Actual screen size as viewed: 103" x 58"

I am trying to refrain from any long cuts, as I don’t have a table saw. I have a standard mitre box to handle the corners. I was thinking of this trim http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203910928?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051&N=5yc1vZara1Z1z0wixeZ1z0wixe&R=203910928#.UWiVVSs6X0A

Won't work....96" pre-cut length is too short. If HD does not have non-bundled stock of that type Trim, sold by the Linear foot, the you'll need to get standard MDF base Trim (...btw, the trim you selected is Pine (wood) not MDF...) Miter Cut so that "inside edge dimensions of each mitered cut piece measure 2 x 103" & 2 x 58"

I do have some questions though being that this is 100% new to me.

1. When mixing the SF paint, I saw that many use a large syringe to measure the colorants and use the distilled water so that it doesn’t stick to whatever mixing cup/bowl. What about the rest of the components? I was thinking of just grabbing a measuring cup from the kitchen for the large components. Do you need to factor a little more of each component to account for any that doesn’t come out of the measuring cup? Or Do you use some more of the distilled water to get all the base colors

The larger quantity of the Base components does not require as exacting a measurement as does the Colorant Primaries. Just scoop / spoon out as much as you can, or with the Tubs, of Silver, Press and roll them down like a Toothpaste Tube..

2. The wall this is being mounted on is not straight by any means unfortunately. This is the main reason I am not just mounting the PVC to the wall directly. The left side of the screen will need to be shimmed away from the wall to make it square. Are there any techniques or any help that can be provided to shim this? I have a feeling this is going to be the hardest part of all of this as it gradually slopes away from the center.

Simply adding some thin Plywood strips toward the inside edge of the Frame should do the trick. Unless the wall is out over 1" from end to end, you should not find it difficult. It is really the need to correct at the "HangMan" point closest to the side the is in from "flat center". If the French Cleats are space far enough apart toward each corner, shimming out one to reach a corrective "level might simply involve attaching a 1/4" to 1/2" Plywood "plate underneath it.

3. Is it a necessity to paint the ceiling? What color? Mickey Mouse Ears Flat black? This one is a tough sell for the wife as she doesn’t want it to look stupid or “dirty” as flat black can tend to look.

Disney's Mouse Ears in a Flat Enamel looks about as good as any "Black" can, but your Wife is right, Black done wrong is a dusty looking, ugly surface. What I suggest is that you paint the ceiling in the same Blue color as your walls, only have it color matched then darkened to 4x darker than the walls. Have it mixed in a Interior Flat Enamel, not a Flat latex. Or go with a very dark Slate Gray in the same Flat enamel. Gray looks great when paired with Blue, and if you paint all your Wood Trim with such a Dark Gray (using Satin Enamel), then even the non-reflective Blue walls will stand in relief. This will please the esthetic taste of your Wife, I'm sure.



This should get you more firmly on the right track, but review and ask whatever questions come to mind. Better to do such prior to starting than to go ahead, fudge something up, and then risk losing said mind. wink.gif

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post #4 of 99 Old 04-13-2013, 10:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks a ton MM for all the info and correcting my errors. I was a little confused on a few points at first and then I took a step back and realized I pulled a bonehead moment on my measurements. I totally didn’t account for 1in all around. DOH! Thank you for bringing this to light. I would have eventually caught it but now I see my error before buying the lumber. 118” diag is not a big deal and is still PLENTY big. I got to watch the finale of Spartacus last night on it and it is truly amazing even just on the crappy builder color drywall. Cant wait to see it with the completed SF Screen!!

Apologies on the trim choice, I didn’t even pay attention to the total length offered. I had only looked at the style. I am just going to pick the right one in store.

The plan is to build the frame and attach the Sintra today, so off to HD I go. If all goes well, I may start the painting tomorrow. I tested the HVLP sprayer on the walls in my garage to get a feel for it. That thing works like a champ!
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post #5 of 99 Old 04-13-2013, 12:53 PM
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Cool Beans.....we will be anxious to read your progress report!

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post #6 of 99 Old 04-13-2013, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Well the trip to HD ended up costing a good bit more than what I was expecting. Didn't realize how much 1x4 Poplar cost!

Got the Frame built and the Sintra mounted(glued and screwed) Ended up using 3/4" Truss head screws to hold it to the frame. Pretty much followed all the above verbatim as recommended by MM. Only thing I added was I painted the outer edge flat black.

Unless I can find a syringe locally, I will paint later in the week or next weekend after I order one from Amazon. Goal for tomorrow is to mount it to the wall. I purchased 2 18" Hangman Cleats to get that accomplished. Will just need to work on the shimming. Is the built in test grid the best way to determine if the screen is perfectly square to the projector?

Now that I have it all mounted, I do have a follow up question regarding the Trim/Velvet. Since there is a 6mm ledge from the Sintra to the Frame, is anything needed to fill that gap or will the velvet border just have a slight angle? I have tons of 1 1/2" finishing nails and a nail set from a previous project. Will this length of nail be fine? I plan on following the thread MM created for the velvet wrapping and mounting

Thanks again for all the help thus far. Cant wait to paint!

Projector mounted and ready to go!
DIY Screen Frame. Painted the edges black so that's why you see the overspray.
Letting the adhesive dry overnight.
Sintra mounted, adhered and screwed. Next is to mount and paint.
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post #7 of 99 Old 04-15-2013, 12:02 AM
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If you sink your nails through the part of the trim that overlaps the Sintra, the trim will sit level. Or, if you kept the Sintra trimmings, you can cut small pieces and glue them at regular intervals around the /on the Frame to level out the edges. You still want to drive the nails in more toward the leading "Screen edge" than to the outside. From what I see, goiung in a half way (centered" will work fine.

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post #8 of 99 Old 04-16-2013, 07:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Got a quick question MM. I was doing some measurements last night to prep for hanging the screen on the wall. Is there a reason you went with the 103x58 118" measurement when you made your recommendations above? Correct me if I am wrong but if i cover an inch of the sintra all around with the MDF/Velvet trim, wouldn't that give me 104x58 for a 119" screen? This pj doesnt have a lot of lense shift so i want to make sure i get it right the first time.
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post #9 of 99 Old 04-16-2013, 07:31 AM
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104" stretches the limits of the 16:9 formatting. Too often people opt to use the larger number "width-wise" and wind up having to over-zoom or "over scan" to fill the sides in. That results in the Bottom being clipped.

Remember, adding 1" to the width proportionately adds even more to the height. So when I consider such things, I prefer to err in the width department, and let the Trim accommodate any projected over spill at the sides instead of zooming out to do such "Fill".

But to be absolutely certain, get that Puppy hung in place, shoot an image onto it, and make note of what you actually have to deal with before you cut your trim to size. That Sir, is by far the best course to follow.

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post #10 of 99 Old 04-20-2013, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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I got the screen mounted and have been tweaking the projected image trying my best to get it just right. I am noticing a few issues now that I have the screen up. You can see in the pictures that the image is smaller at the top than at the bottom. The bottom of the image also slants to the right. The slant I can mostly fix with a 1/2in shim, it gets better but not perfect. Any thoughts on what is making the image have this slight trapezoid? I have tried various levels of tweaking from slanting the projector up more thinking it was pointing down and then fixing the image with the little bit of lens shift but that hasn't fix it, I did notice that the center sits about an 1/8in further from wall than the furthest right and left side of the screen. Could that be the issue? What will be the best way to fix that? If its an easy fix, then great but if not is it worth the trouble?

Also what would be the best way to attach the bottom of the frame to the wall? Since the one side needs to be shimmed to match the other, I have to somehow attach it to the wall. Is there a semi permanent option? My thought is that if I just screw the bottom to the wall on each corner, I would have to do so without the trim on. I am sure its probably easier to put the trim on with the screen off the wall. I am probably over thinking all of this but I just want to get most of it right the first shot.

I taped off where the velvet trim will sit which is the blue tape you see in the pics. The top and bottom tape are slightly off. As it sits, if I push the top and bottom trim over the edge of the frame 1/4in each I will have 58x103.5 which is pretty close to the mark. Based on the width of the trim for the sides the only way to get it to the 103in mark would be to push the trim in 1/4in on each side and cut some of the frame, unless there are other options that can be provided. Cutting the frame is not something I really want to deal with.



Screen Mounted on wall
Tweaking picture size
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post #11 of 99 Old 04-20-2013, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Just had a thought. If I add a 1/4in shim to both mounts, that should fix the center being the furthest away. Am I correct in my thinking?
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post #12 of 99 Old 04-20-2013, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tza88 View Post

Just had a thought. If I add a 1/4in shim to both mounts, that should fix the center being the furthest away. Am I correct in my thinking?

It should work, and for the Bottom edge, a couple appropriately sized and thickness Blocks on each back end of the Screen Frame with one side of each velcro'd to the wall and the other side to the screen.

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post #13 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally sprayed the paint on the screen yesterday. I will say the hardest part of this entire process so far has been mixing the paint. The Liquitex is so thick that's its quite hard to get exactly right. I found it to be impossible to draw up into the 60mL syringes without getting air so I ended up just taking the plunger out to the syringe and squirting it in from the top. This seemed to work well but was definitely hard to get accurate. I masked off part of the room and covered the furniture and went to town. I did 3 dusters and 1 normal. The final product seems to have a bit more texture than what others have posted. I was thinking of thinning the paint just a tad more and do another final coat to try and get a smoother finish.

Thoughts?

Colorant mixed for SF v2.5 3.0
Final mix for SF v2.5 3.0
4th coat - normal coat
Closeup of texture
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post #14 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 10:01 AM
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You'd have to sand the existing painted surface down to a smoother state, or else all you would be doing is putting another layer of paint over the Bumps.

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post #15 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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What is the recommendation for the sand paper? I remember seeing it somewhere but would take forever to find it. Based on the texture, is the paint to thick? Will adding a couple more ounces of the distiller water fix it? What's odd is I did the sock strainer as suggested and it strained just like the video.
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post #16 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tza88 View Post

What is the recommendation for the sand paper? I remember seeing it somewhere but would take forever to find it. Based on the texture, is the paint to thick? Will adding a couple more ounces of the distiller water fix it? What's odd is I did the sock strainer as suggested and it strained just like the video.

We do not recommend Sand Paper, you want to use a Large (4" x 8" x 1") "Fine Grit" Sanding Sponge. The extra large surface area, when supported by just gentle pressure from your hand, allows for very even, light-touch "Sweep Sanding". You will find that type of Large Sanding Sponge in the Drywall tool Dept at Home Depot (...not Paint dept.)

The Texture came from either applying the paint too heavily, or applying it too soon upon a previous coat that was itself not dry enough. Or a combination of both.

However another possibility is that the paint is taking "too long" to dry, and not contracting with evaporation. If it is very cool and / or damp in the painting location, do whatever you can to mitigate such.

A correct Duster Coat has you moving at 3' per second across the surface (...a normally paced "side step"....) and the Gun is at 14" from the surface. You are not quire "sweeping across" the surface, but you are not dawdling around either.

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post #17 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I will run up to HD and get that sanding sponge. This is the one right http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-3-5-16-in-x-9-in-Fine-and-Medium-Sanding-Sponge-910-XLA/202187722#.UXWPY77D8dU That's the closest to 4x8 I found

In regards to the painting. Below are close-up pictures of the 1st and 3rd duster. I didn't think I was putting the paint on to heavily as I was moving at least 3ft a sec and by no means dawdling. I waited 40-45 minutes in between the dusters and 1 hour between the 3rd duster and the 4th normal coat(~2ft per sec). The paint was dry to the touch before I started each coat. This is in a basement which is climate controlled but it was a little cold down there. I guess I could crank the heat up to try and help with the drying but the wife might kick my butt since the main floor and the basement are on the same controls. Guess she will just have to deal with it for little bit if that's whats needed

The reason I thought it might be the paint is because before starting each coat, I used a spare piece of cardboard and sprayed it to get the first bit of paint out. Seemed to have a little more splatter than I expected it to be. I always thought it would be more of a fine mist. I also included a pic of that.

Once I sand, how should I proceed? Another full coat? A couple of dusters?

Thanks again for all the help MM!!!!!


Closeup of first duster
closeup of 3rd duster

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post #18 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 01:31 PM
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The paint does tend to look "splatter'ey"....it does not come out in a ultra fine mist. But the continual application of paint droplets, over earlier paint droplets, serves to fill in the sparse areas.


http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/195317/width/350/height/700/flags/LL

Your "wet image" looks pretty darn wet, and when I see that, and someone sez, "I'm moving at 3' sec" it is usually has to be a case where the Gun is too close, and / or the overlapping is too much...or both.

There has to be a reason why the paint is going on so heavily. In any case, slightly slightly increase your speed & distance. DO NOT ever go back to fill in a sparse area. Small changes in technique can produce very different results.

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post #19 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 01:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah that 3rd coat was kinda a half duster/normal and was around 11:30pm. That probably didn't help.

Should the surface be completely smooth after sanding?

I guess I will shoot for 3 more dusters at the new distance and speed. I have a little less than half the mixed paint left. Should I do any "normal" coats or just stick to dusters? I am also going to crank the heat up to 74ish down there just in case.

Sorry for all the questions.
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post #20 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tza88 View Post

Yeah that 3rd coat was kinda a half duster/normal and was around 11:30pm. That probably didn't help.

Should the surface be completely smooth after sanding?

Well, remember your not so much trying to remove material as you are "smoothing". Still, don't be afraid to hit it two times. Sand it evenly, wipe, and then sand again. Wipe and Duster it.
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I guess I will shoot for 3 more dusters at the new distance and speed. I have a little less than half the mixed paint left. Should I do any "normal" coats or just stick to dusters? I am also going to crank the heat up to 74ish down there just in case.

Sheesh! There is that "normal" stuff again! Dusters are the steadfast rule. With true Dusters, it's almost impossible to get that "orange peel effect". Normal coats are something only the most experienced of painters should attempt, because in actuality, there ain't nuthin' normal about 'em. The difference between a Duster ...a Normal coat, and a Too Heavy coat is very small when the paint is so thin. An experienced Painter won't even try applying a "Normal" coat if the material is "Lacquer Thin". If your gonna err, you wanna do it on the "sparse" end of the equation. One can always add more coats. Removing involves...well removing via no small degree of extra effort...and it's a sad waste of paint and time.

Yes...by pushing a coat closer to the "normal" level of application, one might reduce the number of required coatings by 2 -3, but go just a wee bit too far on any of those "Normal" coats and one can get those damnable bumps.

You know when your doing it right because the screen's surface looks almost wholly featureless...even at 2"-3" I guess I'm gonna hafta be more adamant about DIY'er "only" doing "Dusting". There are some few "out there"who express the opinion that Dusting is bad...and only needed to work against / correct the potential for Hot Spotting. rolleyes.gif

BS, and malarky. We Dust to allow the Electric HVLP Guns to use very thin, wet paint mixes, and apply them in such a manner that the end results are extremely smooth screen surfaces. That is the only reason. Smoothness. High Resolution images do not need / want to have virtually any underlying texture.
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Sorry for all the questions.

Oh...sorry...I forgot all about you. redface.gif

Really though...ask all the questions you need to, and then think hard on what you might still need to ask. NEVER feel sorry about asking questions. It is in fact my goal to make it possible for DIY Screen making to mean "Never having to say your sorry". Or me either. biggrin.gif I greatly enjoy helping people "avoid" issues....a damn site more than having to help 'em correct 'em. wink.gif

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"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #21 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
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After a little over two hours of sanding, I got the screen mostly smooth. it is definitely not baby butt smooth but a million times better. It seemed never ending and I am worried I will take off too much. I can still feel a small amount of texture in some areas but it is very light. The amount of orange peel was ridiculous and clogged the crap out of the sanding sponge. odd thing is that even though its mostly to completely smooth, you can "see" what appears to be texture. is that the pearl and metallics messing with my eyes?

I just did my first duster and am a little worried. Its sitting at 74 degrees in the basement. I mixed the paint real good(noticed there were a lot of tiny bubbles at the surface - Bad or doesnt matter?) and did the nylon sock test. I even made a cheat guide for the hvlp gun to make sure I didn't go any closer than 14 inches. I did the entire screen in what felt under 2 minutes. I cleaned the gun and took the pics below at ~13min and ~35min after I sprayed the first duster.

I waited an hour and sprayed the second duster. Same as before. used my lame guide to ensure proper distance and moved very quickly. This coat def seemed to dry a bit faster as you can see in the picture. I think i moved even faster with this one but i think i lacked a little in overlap. I again took pics at about the 12 and 30 min mark.

Thoughts? Am I on the right path now. neither of these used a lot of paint, i think around 10oz for both dusters. All of the pics were taken at the same spot on the screen. After i took this last pic, i ran my hand across the screen and its def not smooth anymore. I assume that with more dusters it will start to get better and more uniform??

I am done for the night. Will continue more tommorrow

~13min after 1st duster - second attempt
~35min after 1st duster - second attempt
~12min after 2nd duster - 2nd attempt
~30min after 2nd duster - 2nd attempt
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post #22 of 99 Old 04-22-2013, 09:00 PM
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Ah Ha!

A screen of 120" diagonal should take not much more than 60-80 seconds, even with 70% overlap.

Stop tonight....give the surface a light overall sanding tomorrow, and do 2-3 very quick Dusters with the required overlap. Ya did good though, being patient and letting the Duster dry for at least 1 hour.

NEVER expect any paint applied over texture to improve texture.

You are so very close.......

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post #23 of 99 Old 04-23-2013, 08:05 AM
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You need to add water as well. Droplets appear to be much too thick.
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post #24 of 99 Old 04-23-2013, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks MM...Will get to sanding when i get home and move quicker. The 2nd duster seemed to be the right speed and distance.

pb_maxx - How much do you think i need to add? I added 24oz in the beginning as the forumla recommends starting with and added 2 more to get the current consistency. Since the mixture flows through the nylon sock just as recommended, what should i be looking for to know its right? Also is it possible to put too much air in the paint using the squirrel cage mixer?

When i tested the the HVLP in the garage on the walls(made painting the garage easy), i was able to do a full spray and didn't have any sort of orange peel like i am with this. Seems like this paint mixture is a bit more "finicky" compared to standard Behr 2in1
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post #25 of 99 Old 04-23-2013, 11:18 AM
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First, be certain your running the Gun at full output. Do you have a Graco model with the adjustable Thumb Wheel on the back of the Gun's Handle?

Second...If the paint flows through the filter smoothly when you pour, and without backing up past 1/2 the depth of the Filter, adding water is probably not the answer. Sometimes it actually can be a case where there is too much pressure pushing too loose a mix..

But I'll tell you from experience that using the correct speed and distance is the great equalizer.

If the second Duster seemed correct, try your best to duplicate it again,

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post #26 of 99 Old 04-23-2013, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I ordered the graco 2900 but they sent it with the 3900 turbine. I can only assume its the 2900 gun. The thumb wheel is set to max. The paint flows through the filter just like your video that has been posted with no backing up.

I will just stick to the original plan of sanding till smooth and quick dusters. Hope this all works out soon cause running out of paint isn't an option. My wife will kill me if I tell her I need to buy more paint! HAHAH
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post #27 of 99 Old 04-23-2013, 01:00 PM
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Set the thumb wheel back about 20% and give the Gun about a ten second sweep test. If you see the paint producing a less "splatterl'y appearance, go for that setting and continue with the Dusters.

I would not thin the paint any further. If your using the 2.0 needle that came with the Gun, the big droplets are there because the pressure is pushing out the paint really fast.

In truth, some of it is in the unknown realm here. In such cases. experimenting briefly with the settings is the singularly best course to take.

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ok will try that with the gun. When i tested it in the garage, the paint was quite a bit thicker than this stuff so full flow worked perfect. I am using the needle that came with the gun.

So another quick question. I have been going through many of the SF threads and I noticed that people tend to have a slight texture to their finished product. LIke for instance, in your painting of the tab tensioned screen. The closeup below looks like there is a texture to it. Was that actually smooth to the touch or is there going to be a little texture?

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post #29 of 99 Old 04-23-2013, 02:38 PM
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That degree of texture is perfectly acceptable. To the "touch" it does indeed feel virtually "slick". There is no chance that anything except a true Powder Coating could producer anything smoother.

That was done using a 1.0mm needle though....so there is that difference to take into account.

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post #30 of 99 Old 04-23-2013, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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So hopefully what i did tonight didn't damage the existing paint(i really don't think it did nor does it look like it).

After almost 2 hours of sanding and only getting about 3ft of total screen to be totally smooth, i began to get super frustrated. I went and cleaned out the sanding sponge and left a little too much water in it. This in turn led to me wet sanding the screen surface and holy crap did that make it so much easier. I completed the entire rest of the screen in an hour using a bucket and a rag. The whole thing is pretty much baby butt smooth right now. I need to wait for it to dry and go over it with a rag again to get any extra dust off but overall it looks good.

Is wet sanding a bad thing for this paint? Seemed to make my life a ton easier. I guess my case is a little different since i had some really horrible orange peel and needed to get the screen back to a smooth finish before i tried painting again.
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