Sherwin Williams pro classic tinted screen - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-23-2013, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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I am in the process of a pro classic DIY rolled screen on 4x8 mdf with a jvc hd250 in a complete light controlled room with dark walls ceiling and rug. I prepped the mxf with two coats if tinted primer sanded that with a da sander 220 grit. I tinted the paint Olympus white which is a light light gray put one coat up so far. I ordered a couple of screen samples from Carada the matte white looks less bright and the brilliant white looks almost the same but my problem is the sherwin paint is showing sparkles/shimmering and the samples don't. There is also a hot spot in the center as well. Pulling the throw distance back to 17ft helped everything considerably. The iris is on the smallest and the lamp is on normal.
The shimmering almost looks good like a real movie screen but after a while its distracting. I was told there is a lot of titanium oxide in there which is causing that.
Can I buy some flat emerald or duration cause pc doesn't come flat tinted to the same and cut the reflectivity and shimmering down?
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post #2 of 12 Old 04-23-2013, 12:30 PM
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Your rolling on the paint has set you up for that sheen. Chances are if you applied another coat using a 1/2" nap Roller and were careful not to apply much pressure with the roller, it would all but disappear. Also, if you get a large, Fine Grit Sanding sponge from Home depot and lightly sand the surface, that in itself might reduce the sheen / sparkles enough to make you happier.

Do both of the above and I'm certain you'd reduce the ill effects you see by a considerable degree.

Did you use a satin SW base?

I hope not.


BTW, TW adds brightness....it does not contain anything that would create sparkles.

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post #3 of 12 Old 04-23-2013, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes I
Used a satin base. That's what I was told to use on this forum. Pro classic satin enamel. Tinted to Olympus white. I used a 3/16" nap roller and the product was very thick so I thinned it with a little water. I first tried thinning with Wagner paint easy and I ended up with a fish eyed mess. Sanded it down and tried again. Same thing. So I wiped it all off b4 it dried. Then thinned with a little water and no problems except the shimmering.
I do have a several fine grit sanding sponges.
1/2" nap?
shimmering a problem every time though.
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post #4 of 12 Old 04-23-2013, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo50jeff View Post

Yes I
Used a satin base. That's what I was told to use on this forum. Pro classic satin enamel. Tinted to Olympus white. I used a 3/16" nap roller and the product was very thick so I thinned it with a little water. I first tried thinning with Wagner paint easy and I ended up with a fish eyed mess. Sanded it down and tried again. Same thing. So I wiped it all off b4 it dried. Then thinned with a little water and no problems except the shimmering.
I do have a several fine grit sanding sponges.
1/2" nap?
shimmering a problem every time though.

Yes....a pretty good number of people have gone down the "Projector Central 100.00 Screen" road. And too many have hit pot holes too. I'd bet that whoever told you about it has no love for SF / RS-MM applications. Seems like anytime something comes around that promises "Simpler & Easier" results, the more advanced applications are held up to be...well, less than desirable.

But the truth is, using a Satin was, and always has been something ONLY those with very low lumen PJs or those with HUGE Screen getting hit by PJs set WAY back could get away with using. The PC Guys tried too hard to introduce what they thought might be a wide ranging screen application. They were too fixated on trying to match up a OTC White paint to a expensive, +1.2 gain Mfg screen (...and ignored the recent advocacy of using inexpensive Electric HVLP guns...) But they also patently ignored several already proven, simple paint applications...and you can bet not a one of 'em involved using any "Satin" paints.

Bluntly stated, they (PC Guys) are NOT adept DIY Screen makers....and they did NOT come up with the "End All" solution for those graced with today's projectors.

Nothing beats having practical experience....lots of it. And experience shows that a Interior Enamel with a light Gray/Silver surface and a Flat sheen, and that has at least 1.0 gain is by far the best solution for a majority of End users.

You still have options left....if you don't become discouraged. Look at it this way....the surface you do have now is an excellent one to apply something else over if it still presents issues you cannot live with.

For now I'm gonna stop pickin' at the Scab lest i create a Bio Hazard.

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post #5 of 12 Old 04-23-2013, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not giving up yet. I liked the basic tinted primer screen I had no shimmering but kind of dull and flat. Kind of like the sample Carada cinewhite. The brilliant white sample looks similar to what I have now but with shimmering.
What do u suggest for "an interior light/gray silver surface flat sheen with a gain of 1.0"
?
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-23-2013, 07:48 PM
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RS-MaxxMudd LL

You can even roll it on.

It'll give you a Contrast boost, but keep your colors and whites vibrant. You can effortlessly run in Low Lamp mode yet lose nothing in the way of Dynamics.

And, since you seem to really want to get "all the way down" to 1.0, ( RS-MM LL will be about 1.2-1.3 gain w/NO shimmering)so you can simply add a 2 oz. of Liquitex Basics Neutral Gray and a 8 additional oz of a Flat White enamel and mix that into the regular RS-MM LL mix.

I can easily make this suggestion of a "diluted and dampened" RS-MM LL mix because I've done it before myself.

Only a Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 would be a better choice....very much Mo Bedder in fact, but that application involves a different level of doing things...including spraying. RS-MaxxMudd LL is the highest performing, simple to make, easy to apply DIY mix there is.

Bar None. (...I had to say it... wink.gif )

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post #7 of 12 Old 04-25-2013, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I'll try that and abandon the Sherwin Williams. But I've tried searching the forums for the paint mix for hours. There is so much information and different formula versions. I can't seem to find the most updated mix formula anywhere. The newest I'm finding is 2006. It's not on your website either. Can I purchase this from you or where can I find the most updated mix?
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-25-2013, 07:44 AM
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It's on the 1st page of the official rs-maxxmudd thread
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-25-2013, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok the v.2 one from 2011?
Just a curious question though, with all that silver and pearl in the mix it doesn't shimmer like the Sherwin Williams Pro Classic?
The LL one correct?
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-25-2013, 08:36 AM
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Correct. Add 4oz of additional upw and won't see shimmer from even 2ft away.
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post #11 of 12 Old 04-25-2013, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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This mix will give me a white screen or light light gray? My sherwin Williams I tinted Olympus white white is in the n9 family. I like it a lot. Except the shimmering.
Will brightness be similar to what I have now? I like what I have now for brightness. Run in normal mode smallest iris. With plenty of room to spare for light/ moderate ambient light when i open iris fully and kick into high lamp mode
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post #12 of 12 Old 04-25-2013, 01:23 PM
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It will be of a ultra light Silvery Gray....almost White in appearance. It will have almost every bit of the SW's gain. If you use your roller correctly, and apply your rows using a light touch, sheen (shimmering) will not be a concern. Still, calibrating the PJ to both be optimized to the screen, and to provide the deepest Blacks should result in the PJ running on Low Lamp...but with this screen that gives up little to nothing as far as image dynamics and snap-pop-sizzle.

As I stated earlier, you can follow my previous mix instructions to a "T" and be wholly assured of getting the most possible.

Or....go with PB's suggestion and just add 4 oz. of UPW Flat Interior.

The difference between our suggestions are that with my mix, your using 8 oz of Interior Flat Enamel "and" 2 oz. of Liquitex Basics Neutral Gray so as to maintain as much contrast & brightness as possible while also completely eliminating any possibility of shimmering.

PB is simply telling you to further mask the Reflective Elements with 4 ounces of Interior Flat Latex.

Your JVC has plenty of lumen output, which combining with excellent "Native" contrast provides an image that seems much brighter than it's stated output would seem to allow.

My suggestion preserves most of the brightness as well as help deepen the black levels without any crushing of shadow detail.

PB's suggestion takes virtually none of the brightness away.....but it's real advantage is simply eliminating your "shimmering".

The latter being the chief issue we both are addressing.

I'll leave it at this. Out of all the JVC's I've done, from RS-1s/2s to 250s-500s to X3s-X7s-X9s none received a "White Screen" treatment. Almost all were a SF 2.0's "Silver/White"..and a few were darker Silver Fire 4.0s. The higher end JVCs got 'em not because their Blacks needed it, but because the room conditions demanded it.

Rest assured, the owners of those JVCs certainly did not want to sacrifice anything in the transition. Nor did they.

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