CowboyStudio White Vinyl Background w/ Optoma HD6700 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 04-27-2013, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I purchased two rolls of this (just in case) - CowboyStudio 6 x 9 Feet Seamless White Vinyl Background from Amazon.

My projector is an Optoma HD6700 and will be ceiling mounted just shy of 13', giving me an image of 104”. Completely light-controlled room in a basement. Ceiling height will be 7'10"

The screen will be hung directly against the wall and I’ll be using the “Hangman” French Cleat.

I have the details, from MississippiMan, on how to construct the Poplar frame. Feel free to share them here so they are all in one place.

Next step for me is deciding what to paint it with and how to accomplish that. If I spray, and I gather that is the best route, will the sprayer be multi-functional (meaning, can I use it to paint the rest of my basement walls and ceiling)?

Here is an image of it while unrolling it. The shiny side is on the right (still on the roll) and if you look to the left you can see the matte side.



Light does bleed through the material. Is it safe to assume that painting it will knock that part out of the equation? The only reason it’s noticeable right now is that the material is currently just stapled to an open stud wall that occasionally has a light on behind it.
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post #2 of 16 Old 04-27-2013, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unkle3474 View Post

I purchased two rolls of this (just in case) - CowboyStudio 6 x 9 Feet Seamless White Vinyl Background from Amazon.

My projector is an Optoma HD6700 and will be ceiling mounted just shy of 13', giving me an image of 104”. Completely light-controlled room in a basement. Ceiling height will be 7'10"

The screen will be hung directly against the wall and I’ll be using the “Hangman” French Cleat.

I have the details, from MississippiMan, on how to construct the Poplar frame. Feel free to share them here so they are all in one place.

Next step for me is deciding what to paint it with and how to accomplish that. If I spray, and I gather that is the best route, will the sprayer be multi-functional (meaning, can I use it to paint the rest of my basement walls and ceiling)?

Hi unckle!
I look forward to seeing if this material can prove useful. It's certainly affordable, and being Vinyl, I'm hoping it will provide a solid surface for paint. And that extra sheet you have can always be used as a "control matte white" for any performance comparisons you might make.

Let's get crackin'

If you get the most basic Sprayer linked to here: http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html
......and purchase the accessory 1.5 mm Needle here: http://www.checkoutsupply.com/earlex-hvacv15-1-5mm-needle-brass-tip-hv3500/

(other sources)
http://www.sears.com/earlex-1.5mm-needle-brass-tip-hv3500-hvacv15/p-00929028000P
http://www.jr.com/earlex/pe/ER_HVACV15/

.........then this Sprayer can do a variety of tasks. There are better, more expensive units, but short of trying to use it to paint the whole house, it should do you great service.
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Here is an image of it while unrolling it. The shiny side is on the right (still on the roll) and if you look to the left you can see the matte side.

You absolutely want to use the Matte Side. But tell me, upon close up inspection, does the matte side have that same weave pattern?

Quote:
ight does bleed through the material. Is it safe to assume that painting it will knock that part out of the equation? The only reason it’s noticeable right now is that the material is currently just stapled to an open stud wall that occasionally has a light on behind it.

That material is going to require at least two, perhaps three thin sprayed coats of primer on the Matte surface after it is mounted, and before any higher performance coating is applied. This will also mean at least one very light sanding after the primer coats and before the finish coats.

It resembles a fine textured Tarp material. So it's ability to conform to and fold around / over a frame is yet to be ascertained and dealt with first. You want a very taunt surface. Not "Snare Drum Tight"....but pretty stiff nonetheless. Sometimes material like this needs to be stretched only across the face of a Frame. We shall see. cool.gif

To quote James T. Kirk;
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post #3 of 16 Old 04-27-2013, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I have about 960 sq feet to paint. Think it can handle that?

Any specific primer on the vinyl?

Lastly, given my projector and room (light controlled), what paint do you recommend?
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post #4 of 16 Old 04-27-2013, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unkle3474 View Post

I have about 960 sq feet to paint. Think it can handle that?

It can, but under the same dictates as it would painting a screen. At least 3 Coats at maximum patter height obtainable and 60-70% overlap. It takes about 5 minutes to empty a Quart Cup on the Gun, and previous experience has shown it take almost 5 minutes to spray a coat onto a 16'x 9' screen.

If any wall is bigger than that....get a Power Painter!
But the Graco, with two needles to choose from, can do detail, trim, cabinets, water based stains. No Power Painter can.
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Any specific primer on the vinyl?

Glidden Gripper Primer in "White". Thin just enough to get a solid 10" pattern using the stock needle. Observe a 60-70 Row over lap regimen. Apply 2 coats w / 2.0 mm needle. Lightly sand screen surface with Fine Grit sponge. Dust off, then apply a final Primer coat using the 1.5 mm Needle.

Use the 1.5 mm needle for all the "Finish Coat" Dusters. If any further sanding is done, it happens between the 3rd and 4th Dusters. 5 Dusters should be the target number. 6 maximum.

Quote:
Lastly, given my projector and room (light controlled), what paint do you recommend?

Firstly, a 104" diagonal image requires a throw of as little as 11' 8" up to 12' 9". Wow...that's a whole 1 foot of play. So...I hope by saying "Just shy of 13' " you mean 12' 6" because you really need some degree of focal zoom remaining for unexpected formatting issues. It is never wise to try to run the Lens / Throw equation at each extreme end of the table.

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post #5 of 16 Old 04-29-2013, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Sprayer and nozzle on order. Poplar has been procured.

The projector is currently sitting at 154 1/2 inches from the unfinished wall where I have the vinyl material stapled. At the middle of the manual zoom it's hitting the 104" mark. Would you advise going smaller than 104?

I don't have much room to go back farther without notching out my soffit. Viewing distance is right at 12 feet.
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post #6 of 16 Old 04-29-2013, 02:13 PM
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generally if you can get 104" by getting moving the projector forward... not backward... then that would be more ideal. say within 10-15% of the manual zoom.

if you can move that pj to 144 inches... you'll gain an addition 2fL... from 25fl to 27fl.
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post #7 of 16 Old 04-29-2013, 11:23 PM - Thread Starter
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That makes sense. Do you think the extra 2 fl are necessary in a completely light controlled room?

I've been toying around with the idea of moving the projector back in order to get a 110 or greater screen, but if brightness will suffer I can ditch that idea.
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post #8 of 16 Old 04-30-2013, 06:54 AM
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if you already have the projector mounted... then no... certainly not in a light controlled room.
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post #9 of 16 Old 04-30-2013, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. The room is unfinished so the projector is only mounted on the joists right now. I have a lot of flexibility on where I put it right now.

With the light-controlled room, would moving the projector even farther back to get around a 115" screen be alright or at that distance would you worry more about the fl?
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post #10 of 16 Old 04-30-2013, 10:23 AM
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Your cool with 115" diagonal. No worries there.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #11 of 16 Old 11-07-2013, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright. Well, the basement project has taken far longer than I had hoped (I should have known better). The drywall will be finished next week and then we will begin painting and trim. So that means I'll be building my screen in the next month or two.

Final size is going to be 116".

MM - can you give me the frame dimensions for 116" with the standard MDF trim you recommend?

Thanks!
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post #12 of 16 Old 11-08-2013, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Also, what should I look at as far as a final coat?
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post #13 of 16 Old 11-10-2013, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unkle3474 View Post

Alright. Well, the basement project has taken far longer than I had hoped (I should have known better). The drywall will be finished next week and then we will begin painting and trim. So that means I'll be building my screen in the next month or two.

Final size is going to be 116".

MM - can you give me the frame dimensions for 116" with the standard MDF trim you recommend?

Thanks!

Hi!
Sorry for the protracted reply, but I've been pretty crazily busy as of late.

If your Miter Cutting the MDF trim, the "Inside" measurements of the Long Pieces would be 101" and the Short pieces 57"..
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Also, what should I look at as far as a final coat?

Owning to the fact that the HD6700 has very low contrast, you should strongly consider at minimum RS-MaxxMudd Retro, or if possible, Silver Fire v2.5 2.0

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post #14 of 16 Old 11-12-2013, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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@MississippiMan

You me mentioned...Glidden Gripper Primer in "White". Thin just enough to get a solid 10" pattern using the stock needle.

I have the Graco EV2900. Do you have a suggestion on a more exact amount of water to add per quart?
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post #15 of 16 Old 11-13-2013, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unkle3474 View Post

@MississippiMan

You me mentioned...Glidden Gripper Primer in "White". Thin just enough to get a solid 10" pattern using the stock needle.

I have the Graco EV2900. Do you have a suggestion on a more exact amount of water to add per quart?

The amount of water can vary because the consistency of the paint can also vary "Can to Can". That is why you need to use the "Through the Sock Filter" measuring guide.(...watch the Videos that are posted at several locations in several Threads...)

You must remember your adding water to Primer, not a SF or RS-maxxMudd mix, so it must be judges by the flow rate...and that may need for you to at minimum add the same amount of water per volume of Primer as you would if it was a DIY Mix...plus about 6 additionalz, attempt a straining, the add additional water in 2 oz increments until you see a steady "flow-through" after only a slight back-up in the Filter.

Even then, the final test involves using the Gun....and don't overly fret abount the difference between 8-9" and 10". It's a smooth, even lay-down your after.

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post #16 of 16 Old 12-04-2013, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I got my frame built over the weekend. The material is only 108 x 72 (it actually was a smidge less than 108 too) and I was shooting for a screen size of 118 (103 x 58). I built my frame out of 1x3 Poplar. I chose to use my pocket jig and metal braces. I used this build as sort of a rough guideline. Because the material was less that 108 I made my frame 108 x 63 and had planned on having the MDF trim lay off the frame about 3/4" all the way around.

Frame went together well.



I had a tough time stretching and stapling the white photographers vinyl. It looked great when it was laying down (so I thought) and then I put it up on the wall and you could see quite a few very noticeable wrinkles.




I could probably remove staples at this point and do some pulling, but since this product has been unproven for even MaxxMudd or SF I decided to scrap it and ordered FlexiWhite from Carl's.

I'll post some images of it once it's up.
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