Originally Posted by wackychimp
I was actually planning to cover the window and hang a fixed screen. I just worry too much about a retractable screen being too "fickle".
The skylights are intended to be faux skylights with a fiber optic star field in them. This way it's always twilight in there. I'm not putting in real skylights so I'll be in control of the lighting. (This image was from my "dreaming" stage where I was trying to come up with the "perfect" HT room. Now that I'm beginning the building stage, I've got to be more practical.
Yeah, I know that a projector with lens shift would be much preferred in a case like this, but didn't want to pay the extra $1100 for the 5020. I'll have to "make-do" with this one.
Typically, fixing the display with keystone correction is a last resort, right?
Well, in most every case. But in a situation like yours it's almost mandatory.
At least there is a way to easily find your best positioning.
1. Hang the PJ at the lowest possible location....say the bottom of the PJ 7' off the floor, using a Chief RPA PJ Dedicated mount (...ya just gotta! ) and a Peerless Round Ceiling Plate.
Epson 6020 done as such....;
The Pipe is PVC w/Male Couplings. Inexpensive and easy to switch out. And when a longer Drop is required, the ability to easily pass / hide all the Cable / 110 ac lines makes for a splended installation.
Try a assembled length such as 16", which will have the top of the lens at 20" off the Ceiling. (7' 2" off the Floor) Level unit front to back & side to side and plumb the unit perpendicular to the wall / screen.
Shoot the Blue Start Up screen onto that wall. Zoom until the corners of the image contact the side walls.
Using the Chief's tilt adjustment, angle the unit until your upper corners have a minimum of 6" from the Slopes.
Hopefully it would not require much of an adjustment to do this.
Now using Keystone, square the image. If all you must do is bump the Vertical Keystone value 2-3 points....that is in no way going to be detrimental.
So now, you'll know how much higher you can go, and use an appropriately shortened Pipe / Coupling assembly.
........or if you simply gotta, add a few more inches and increase the screen size even further while further reducing the extent of Keystone correction needed.
.......or you just might find the first try lets you NOT
use keystone at all. That would be a Perfect World scenario. But hope springs....
Whatever the choice, now we / you mark off the edges of the perimeter of the "projected" Screen area, check the wall for surface defects and repair / sand / prime the enclosed area, and spray Silver Fire 2.5 3.0
to complete what will be an ideal solution for use with the 3020.
Well OK....RS-MaxxMudd or RS-MM-LL <...you can roll the latter...
...> either would also work splendidly, the latter best of all if your truly going to keep lighting issues under your firm guidance and control. It has enough ability to enhance perceived contrast and combat modest ambient light, while retaining a lot of gain doing so that you can run the 3020 on low lamp all the time, and always get a dynamic image with great Blacks.
The above is just the start of the help you can count on during your proposed Theater. I hope to see you progress....with success.