Alright, well I got started and have made a fair amount of progress on my build (and I have PICTURES!)
The first thing I did was finish painting the room. I did a gold around the side walls and then a flat black on the wall with the projector. After doing that, we decided to just go for it and paint the ceiling black too.
It turned out pretty decent. I still need to go around and touch-up the joining top, but you can't really tell from here
Next I had a buddy with a wood shop help me cut my 106" poplar frame. I went off the tutorial someone wrote up and posted here
. I used 1x4" board, first running the sides through the table saw to make them all the same width. Then we used a Dado and a few scrap pieces to get the right width and depth for the rail channel. After the channels were cut and we mitered the corners, I brought all the pieces back home and started putting the aluminum screen rails in. I used the spray adhesive to make sure the rails weren't going to move, as the dado blade cut the channel just a hair too wide. No biggy.
Here is the blue painters tape going on the rails to make sure I don't make them super sticky while applying the velveteen.
After spraying and applying the velveteen with the adhesive, I took a straight edge (Measuring Square) and box cutters to cut out the velveteen from around the channel. Turned out pretty good on each piece.
All the pieces laying and ready to be joined. I used a biscuit cutter another friend had to make channels at the ends so the joints would be a bit stronger.
Coming together pretty well!
Now to put the blackout cloth on the frame. I purchased some BOC from Jo-Ann's and turns out my 106" frame was just a bit too wide for it. The 106" diagonals including the extra 1" on each side for the frame turned out to be 54". The BOC was just about 54", but more like 52" un-stretched. I was really hopeful that I would be able to stretch it out and put it on the frame anyways, but you'll see how that went.
Looks good so far (I had to use tacks on the bottom to get it to stay... the spline kept coming out every time I would try to put in the bottom side.
It didn't matter, it was too much for the spline up top to. So now I get to order some wider cloth.
Now's a good time to put up the curtains while I wait for the new screen material.
And now to put together the slider system. I'm using 18" cabinet drawer slides so I can slide the screen into place and fold it up out of the way when I don't want it. I'm basically using the method as specified in 1) of my first post. I used a 2x4 board to anchor the screen to as the ceiling joists were nowhere near where I wanted to put the screen. It also acts as a spacer for the ceiling so I can fold t he screen up without having to figure out some fancy brackets. You can see how it would be when it's folded up in the following picture. Imagine that the floor is actually the ceiling and that's how the screen will be stored.
Got it mounted in the corner of the room. I used a Kreg pocket hole jig (can see the holes in the previous picture) to hang the 2x4 in the top corner.
Here's the screen hung after I took the original screen out.
I had to offset the slider rails on the back of the screen frame because of the 6" L brackets I used to join the pieces of the frame. I stacked 2 washers to straighten out the rails.
The new wider (66") BOC arrived from Amazon (Hurray Prime). Got it splined in using a thicker spline this time too. I think I used 0.160. The guide used 0.125 with the seymore AT material. Don't know if the BOC is just thinner, but this worked alright for me. It took a bit more work to spline in the material, but it turned out ok.
I tacked the ends using a single staple on each spline. I didn't want to take the chance that they would just start unraveling, so I thought this would be good enough.
Because I have the 2x4 at the top, I had to figure out how to make sure the screen is perpendicular to the projector screen and parallel to the wall. I used 2 magnetic door stops to offset the screen from the wall. I had to put a couple shims behind the main arm to make sure the screen was straight up and down.
Screen hung with the BOC splined in. Just need to put the curtain back up and test her out.
Unfortunately, I'm on my 3rd :| Epson 8350 Refurbished unit. The first 2 had convergence issues and the 3rd has this bad blue hue on the left side side. Also, the right side won't focus, no matter how much I try. I can get the left side perfectly focused, but the right always looks smeared. At this point I just requested a refund from Epson and they honored that. I gotta figure out my next move on a projector. :/ The Short throw option went out the window as there is only 5' between the screen and the tip of the ceiling fan blade. Looking at the Benq, it would require about 5'4" or 5'6" at a minimum. Maybe I'll get super adventurous and decide to move the fan back so I can put that projector in there, but I don't really feel like doing that... so maybe I'll just spend the money and buy a brand new Epson 8350.
Like I said in an earlier post, the original ceiling fan with light kit was hung too low for use with the projector. I replaced it with a new one that matched the room and pushed more air. Works great and it is high enough to be out of the way of the projected image. I had to hick up the pull chain though or it hung down about an inch into the image.
A couple prelim shots with a lamp behind me for ambient light. I need to install some wall sconce and will probably get around to that this weekend. Until then, It's a lamp and some lovely beach chairs (Gotta find the money to buy some nice theater seats... a while out though).
Last note - After pulling the BOC onto the frame and hanging it on the wall, I found that the center of the top frame sags down. It's about 5-6 pixels worth of sag in the middle, making it annoying when using the screen as a computer monitor. Testing it out using movies makes it seem less noticeable, but when I have a 1.85 ratio movie showing, you can see the top/bottom just barely and the sag sticks out. I'm trying to brainstorm ideas on what to do to fix this. I was thinking of maybe putting a couple metal L brackets at the mid point of the top and bottom frame pieces and then putting in a rod that I could adjust out/in to stretch the frame back square. I worry that going with this approach would just cause the bottom section to sag down so that they are both out of whack. I did respline the top section to maybe relieve it of some of the tension, but by the time I got to it, I think it'd had already permanently warped the poplar.
Next stop: Mount the brackets to hold the screen on the ceiling and then doing the SF spraying. I have all the material, although sourcing enough Basic Silver was a bit of a challenge. I ended up ordering a bunch of the 4 oz. packs from Amazon. I don't know when I'll get around to spraying, but I know it'll be a bit because I want to browse a bit more around the forums to get a better idea on what I'm done.