Originally Posted by robbiefitch
Now for a few questions...
1. Where can I get Sintra/Komatex from?
What city do you live in / near?
2. What's the difference between MaxxMudd and SilverFire?
The Colorant, and the percentages of reflective particles to the needed percentage of masking elements.
RS-MaxxMudd is the progenitor of Silver Fire, in fact it's base Mix is essentially the Reflective Mix for Silver Fire.
Inasmuch...the RS-MM Family seldom aspire to, or reach the level of "Gray" that even a SF v2.5 1.5
3. When I search RS-MaxxMudd LL it doesn't pull up the specs... Is it the same as MaxxMudd V2?
4. If I roll it will it come out the same quality wise as spraying?
Somebody get a Rope !
Yeah well......, it's like this. Spraying done correctly onto a good surface allows for highly reflective mixes to diffract more light, rather than direct it straight back. Gain as measured off axis it what all the SF / RS-MM mixes have held out as being special. But...if you roll, and do a proper job, while you might get a smooth blemish free surface, you also get a more highly directional surface, one that tends to hot spot, and have a very narrow viewing cone. This comes from the Roller pressing down and flattening the metallic flakes, creating a muti-mirrored effect.
Consider this....RS-MM-LL can be rolled because....? It has a lighter hue and more UPW Flat. "(aka: less a tendency to show roller marks...)
Spraying kinda jumbles 'em up on a exceeding small level. Scatters the light better. And I've said it many times, the ability to ace out a near perfect surface comes easier with spraying. Spraying really isn't any more expensive consider that to do a righteous job of Rolling you gotta have great Roller Wands, and excellent quality Rollers. And good technique. And good fortune. Man...that's a lotta "I hope it's all good."......too much for me, and I used to roll all my screens!
Originally Posted by robbiefitch
Nevermind on number 3... I found it... But it says it's for low lumen projectors with controlled light. Is that why I would add the 4oz of Liquitex Neutral Gray?
He surmises wisely.
Silver Fire mixes, owing to their darker shades tending to highlight reflective particles (...though to a lessor degree than do most all such HC Mfg Ambient screens,) both the ratio of metallic particles and the translucency of the mix govern "gain", The interaction of the depth (%
) of the Gray shade added both mutes a degree of the gain due from "Direct Reflectivity", and also deepens blacks by optimizing projected blacks. The key element being that by retaining a higher percentage of gain overall AND deepening blacks onscreen, that makes for a vivid, dynamic image that always performs better than thought possible in a given situation..
It all about the SF colorant.
To do this with a base Neutral Gray instead of the SF Colorant requires using a higher percentage of Neutral Gray per Reflective Mix than one would with SF colorant.
The RS-MaxxMudd LL is already known to be the RS-MM with the highest gain. That said, it can most easily suffer the addition of a Basic Gray, to essentially do the same job....darken the screen but hopefully retain at least a gain of approx.1.1
One has to make a study of why RS-MM-LL
is what it is. More UPW Less Silver. More Pearl. Take a look at the color images showing SF Colorant. Compare them to the shade of Gray of the Liquitex Neutral Gray.
A huge difference.
a SF v2.5 4.0
surface (4 oz. Colorant) would be pretty dark Gray. About a shade lighter than the concentrated Neutral Gray. Yet that depth of Gray was / is achieved using only 4 oz of SF Colorant. To accomplish the same level with the Liquitex would mean adding 32 oz! And you can be sure there would be no gain level remotely akin to 1.0.
It's all about balancing masking of overt reflection while retaining the most possible gain.
Add the old cry "How about making it simpler?" and RS-MaxxMudd LL w/4 oz Liquitex will fit that bill for those whose ambient light issues are modest and light control is normal in nature. Then Robbie, you get to add in your PJ and it's performance. If you need real punch during a high light situation, then normal Lamp Output onto the RS-MM-LL screen will not disappoint. Go to Low Lamp for critical viewing in so9me degree of controlled lighting, and the projected black levels will seem incredible. Turn out the lights...and your gonna wish you had 200"