Originally Posted by Fuelrush
I'm a totally new to Home Theater, but a veteran DIY'er. I want to build a dedicated theater with a AT screen. I just bought a W1070 (yes another person bought a 1070. :-)
......and if all the other Kids ran out into heavy traffic, would you go too?
Gosh, but seriously though...the 1070 is getting a lot of nods. And pretty much for the right reasons. But in truth, it's light output isn't all that exceptional, nor is it's contrast anything remarkable. No...it's all about a sub $1k DLP 1080p w/3D & Vertical Lens Shift.
It's not a perfect combination, but if one plays to it's strengths and avoids having it's weaknesses affect performance, then much can be accomplished.
Right now looks like the whole miliskin thing is the way to go. Several recent post gives me a good idea of construction. As of now the questions I have are in regard to screen size.
I'd like to go ahead and make the biggest screen possible for the room. Probably 135" to 150" diag. (150" to much trouble? Probably too big?)
If you really want to consider anything near the size of the screen you mention, then Spandex it not a good option. A 135" diagonal spandex requires Lumen Horsepower, and 150" diagonal would overstretch Spandex, leastwise in a 16:9 format.
The recent 2.35:1 Spandex Screens in the 135" diagonal size I and some others have made were getting hit with 2500 lumen+ PJs (ie: Panny 8000) and they almost all usually had a feature called Lens Memory to help matters
It is important to understand that the Foot Lambert of reflected brightness you get from a 16:9 screen represents the entire lumen output of the PJ. switch over to 2.35:1 Format and you lose all the projected light that would have been available within the resulting "Black Bars", and that means any Lumen / Foot lambert levels you started out within those areas with are no longer in play. That makes a weak situation worse, and even in a totally darkened room (...which almost no one ever really maintains 100% of the time...) your image isn't all it could / should be in terms of being bright and dynamic.
You would be best served by considering a Drywall surface since your building a room from scratch. Such a surface will allow you to use a high contrast, high gain paint, and then...your limitations disappear. Well....at least they become more tractable. More on this below.
Regardless of what I end up choosing at my final screen size will probably be smaller, but I'll always have the option to go bigger or smaller based on what I feel I need at the time without having to construct the whole thing again. I just want to make a simple masking system and let that dictate the screen size, not the actual screen. Does that make sense? To me it would be easier to remask or adjust the masking than rebuild the actual screen. Is there any unforeseen consequences to this?
Yep...your gonna have to do manual adjustment of the PJ's lens Shift and Zoom, as well as any masking. But there is a sensible, do-able route to take.
Also, this would allow easy conversion of the aspect ratio. Again remask. (This also reminds me. Favai or a 2.35:1 though a 16x9 projector, do the black bars just shoot into the velvet or would you want them on the screen itself?)
Masking both horizontally and vertically is a very difficult thing to accomplish, and commercially available Masking systems can be and are very expensive affairs.
One solution is to strive for what is called "Constant Image Height" or CIH.
The room will be a totally dark 15 x 20 with 8 foot ceilings. The screen will go on the 15' wall.
I'm assuming I can go with the recommended (from another post):
Light Silver Milliskin Back?
White Milliskin Front?
Both Matte in finish?
What size cut do I need for what screen size? I read somewhere but now I can't find it.
Let's move away from spandex and pursue what would be a better course. A painted Drywall Screen, one that will use RS-MaxxMudd LL, a well known and proven High Contrast-High Gain DIY Screen paint that will allow the w1070 to provide you with an image that will be able to reach the sizes you desire.
We'd start with a smoothed area of Drywall 54" x 130" ....that's a 2.35:1 Format of 141" diagonal. A screen height of 54" relates to a 16:9 image size of 110" diagonal (54" x 96")
Such a configuration, where the height of the Screen never changes, only with width, allows for the use of a much simpler masking system...one that simply "pulls in" from each side to the "96" wide spacing. That means the use of Curtains...either manual "Pull Type" or Electric.
Certain PJs "other" than the w1070 have a feature called "Lens Memory", where they recall the positions relating to the two selected Format, and re-position the Width & height of the 2.35:1 image, making the height match that of the 16:9 size, and Zooming the Width out at the same time.
Those are things YOU
will have to do manually, and if the w1070 did not have Vertical Lens Shift, even this would not be an option for you to consider.
Which now leads to how to design your PJ's positioning as it will relate to your Screen and Masking system. Unless you can employ a Home Theater Design / Installer to take charge and make such decisions for you, all ya got to go on is either your own ability to learn from the sources available to you, or just take the advice of those who have "Been There...Done That" to breast and go for it.
Many have, and have come through it all not just alive, but with "kickin' Theaters.
Where is a good source for black velvet?
Black Velvet is an essential tool in several aspects of effective design, and if it's not sourced correctly, can be costly and logistically a real issue to deal with. Luckily...it's a easily covered (pun there) item.
You won't find another source with such effective material at anything near the cost.
(Trying to not be overwhelmed here, just excited to get started)
Thanks to everyone. Its helped so much reading post on this forum. I wouldn't have got this far a week ago. There is a wealth of information here. Bravo!
Go ahead and get excited.....and we'll do everything to provide enough help and information so that your getting overwhelmed isn't going to happen. But the latter absolutely depends upon your being able to take sage advice from this Forum's members to heart...not overtly question or change things without discussing them first, and going with known and proven methods.
Or....you can indeed spend the time and effort to learn enough various things to finally put it all together on your own. But if that was not too daunting a task, why would you be here in the first place...right?