Painting a 92" DIY screen for Viewsonic Pro8200 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 7 Old 07-20-2013, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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As I get closer and closer to working on my HT specifically (and not just finishing the basement) I am trying to be as prepared as possible for all the details. I have already decided I'm going to paint my screen directly to drywall. So now I'd appreciate some advice on what types of paints/mixtures I should be looking in to.

Some specs of the room:

8' x 20' x 8' total room size (the screen will be on the 8' wall)
Viewsonic Pro8200 Projector
No windows, no ambient light in the basement
Dedicated HT room, not multipurpose

Not sure what other information you might want, but I'm more than happy to supply whatever necessary info you need.

I was looking at Silver Fire, but it seems like a science experiment mixed with chemistry and I'm not good at either.

The wall I have is already "flat" (I've skim-coated it and I'm happy with the results so far) but at this point is unprimed. I have a paint sprayer available, and I still have some Flat Black paint for the wall I could use before painting on the screen for a nice dark background. If I were to go with Silver Fire, which version/mix would be best? Would I be better off with MaxxMudd-LL?

Thanks for the help!
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-20-2013, 04:39 PM
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RS-MaxxMudd "Standard"

That mix leaves out the "Chemistry" part.

More on your room's paint choices later.
(hint: Flat Black is ugh-lee...)

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #3 of 7 Old 07-20-2013, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I was thinking flat black only for the screen wall. The other walls are currently a dark tan color. But as always I'm open to suggestions of a strictly platonic nature. Okay, that's not true...I'm open to any suggestions really wink.gif

Thanks for the help MM!
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post #4 of 7 Old 07-20-2013, 06:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Got another question as long as I have your attention...I was looking up info on where exactly to mount my projector and I want to double-check that this is right.

For a 92" screen with my Pro8200, it should be mounted 15" from the ceiling and 11'4" from the wall the screen will be on. For 82" screen it should be 14" from the ceiling and 10'1" from the wall. I just want to be sure that this is at least remotely correct so I can start looking for a mount for my projector. Speaking of which, any suggestions on that front?
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post #5 of 7 Old 07-20-2013, 09:52 PM
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No Dave.....

Your both repeating and misconstruing the info you saw on PC. Lets get it straight for you.



The Throw distance on the Left, that is a "Centered" figure. Should you instead choose, or have to out of hand place the PJ closer, then your PJ's lumen output will be used to greater effect. If you place the PJ at 9' - 9" you would get 39 fls reflected light off a 1.0 gain screen. At 11' 4", that drops to 34 fls...and at 13' - 11" it drops to 30 fls. So "Closer" means brighter. Use brightness to your advantage whenever possible. Lamps dim with age....and PJs always calibrate better and produce their deepest Blacks when the Lamp is on "Economy" (Low) They last significantly longer too.

Now let's go back and look at that 15" figure on the right, where the line denoting 15" that goes over to the Bottom of the Screen shows to be above the center of the Lens. That Sir, means the PJ has a "Lens Offset" of 15". And that means wherever the center of the Lens is when the PJ is mounted "inverted"....then the top of the Image will 15" BELOW that point.

Say you mounted the PJ so the Lens was 15" down from the Ceiling. Add in the offset and the Top of the Image would be a full 30" down from the Ceiling.
Now unless you have 12' high ceilings, that isn't gonna work. Even a 9' ceiling would spell trouble.

So instead, you need to mount the Pro8200 as "High" to the Ceiling as possible.

Let's use 6" 6" + 15" = 21" from the center of the Lens to the Ceiling. The Top of the Screen's image will be 21" down from the Ceiling.
Speculation:
  • You have a 8' ceiling.
  • 96" minus 21" equals 75".
  • Your 92" Screen's image is 45" high
  • 75" minus 45" = 30"
..........The bottom edge of your Screen's image will be 30" off the Floor.

As your Ceiling height rises....9' - 10' - 12' ...........then the Len's offset becomes less an issue, and you can drop the PJ further down from the Ceiling as desired (...and practical....)

Mount?

Chief RPA -O Universal or RPA -PJ Dedicated. Ultra low profile. Like Iron embedded in Stone, the Chief is among the sturdiest, most easily adjusted, and resistant to loosening of all Mounts.

You will need one...along with a Peerless ACC570 Ceiling Plate and a 2" Threaded Steel Nipple (8' Ceiling) or a 6" length....or 12", the variables can suit the circumstances and needs, but always, that 15" Lens Offset must be factored in.

So there is your best start....we caught a big issue before it became one.

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post #6 of 7 Old 07-20-2013, 10:54 PM - Thread Starter
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That makes more sense...This is why I come to the forums. Without coming here I'd be better off with my 50" plasma and my cheap-o LG surround that barely works...There is a LOT of information for a noob like myself and without someone to help out it would take way more trial and error (mostly error) before I'd have this even half figured out.

Thank you so much for the explanation! I'll add that to the shopping list. Is there a difference between the RPAO and the RPAU. From the descriptions it seems like the RPAU "has all the great features of the RPAO and even more"...for less money. That's not always a good sign do I figure I should check first before buying it. The RPAO seems to be about $30 more than the RPAU.

Is there a "standard" distance from the floor I should try for? I suppose it has a lot to do with how high off the ground your seats/eye level are going to be? Are adjustable threaded nipples okay or should I try to get the right sized non-adjustable ones?

I'm sure there a bazillion other questions I could ask, but I'm getting tired...finishing off 16 hours at work tonight...Knowing me I'll be up thinking of more of them when I should be sleeping soundly...Good night and thank you so much! As always you have been a terrific help!
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post #7 of 7 Old 07-21-2013, 06:43 AM
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The newer RPA-U has really lousy Square Arms that work with large Knobs that attach onto the PJ's Mounting Holes. It simply does not tighten up well.
The RPA-O still uses the "old style" Steel Channel" Bars that also have adjustable Feet.

Order your Mount from Projector People and ask specifically for Kirk Ritari (ext:2002) as he knows the difference. Some Sites shpw on image, but stock / send another.
You can get the Peerless Ceiling Plate from him as well.

But be certain to ask if Chief has a RPA-PJ Dedicated Mount, as it cost the same but comes with a Stamped Metal Plate specifically made for the PJ's Mounting Holes, and is even lower in profile than the "Arm'ed" version.

Don't use "Adjustable" Nipples. The size you need is 1.5" I.D. NPT. Personally, I use Schedule 40 PVC Pipe and two Threaded Male Couplings. You can purchase a 24" long piece and then cut it to exactly the length you need (...allowing for the added length of each Coupling...). If the drop is longer than 4"...that's what I'd use every time. PVC is easy to work with and sands / paints much easier.

Examples:

Ist shown is a 6" PVC Drop w/Couplings.


..and this is a 2" Steel Nipple.




A Peerless ACC570 Ceiling Plate




Next 3 images are RPA-Dedicated PJ Plates. You can easily see why they are to be much preferred if available...




A Mechanical Drawing of the RPA Mount.



To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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