Originally Posted by mganapa
First off, All you forum guys are great. MM you are the oracle on this topic. Salutes to you and everyone here.
I have an Optoma HD180 that I got from Costco 3 years back but I never got to set up my media room until now. I have decided to go DIY as much as possible. Towards this, I intend to construct my own screen.
I have reviewed almost all threads on this forum going as far back as 2006 and now I am more confused as ever. I have attached a plan of my media room and I do not have issues with controlling light in the room. I was looking to build a 120" screen (105" x 59"). At one point I was very much decided on a plain BOC but then more thread, more information, made me change my mind to paint my screen and use a Sintra board for the base and paint it. Here are my questions:
1. I am not sure where to get Sintra board at those dimensions in Houston, TX. I tried calling a few plastics company in the Houston area this last Friday but I have not been very successful. Will continue this all of next week till find one. The question is does any one know / suggest a good place to get Sinta board in Houston? What is a better alternative to Sintra? Would Gator board be strong enough? What thickness should I choose for the alternate material?
Laird Plastics - Houston Ask for Sintra / Komatex /or any similar smooth faced White Sign Board
You might want to consider this material (instead of lowly BOC) is Sintra "etc" if not available in 60"x 120" http://www.carlofet.com/projector-screen-material/flexiwhite-projector-screen-raw-material.html
A 71" x 126" expanse is only $69.95 Ask for it to come on a "Roll", not folded.
The material above accepts paint like a dream...and if a Frame is going to be needed, it can serve a great purpose and do so for a lot less than 6mm Sintra.
2. For the Optoma HD180 which is better? BOC only, Painted BOC or painted Sintra?
Painted high performance coating on Material such as linked to, or Sintra or a Sintra-like clone. The HD180 needs significant assistance in the Contrast / Black Level departments, and a good Silvery Gray surface is the ticket to ride in on.
3. The idea of using a Sintra is to build a zero-edge screen with LED strips behind the board.
Such an application requires a Frame, and if that is so, one might as well use Flexi White. I have a few ideas on that, somethings that might make the whole concept a bit more tractable and practical.
4. If painted which paint should I choose? RS-MaxxMud or SF?
SF for maximum effect (3.0
) but involving a bit more expense and effort. RS-MaxxMudd Standard for a greatly improved image with less overall effort.
5. What is a good primer to use?
None needed......a initial Duster Coat provides all the prep required for subsequent coats.
6. As you could have guessed I am illiterate when it comes to painting but I am not afraid to start. I have ordered HV2900 Spray station HVLP sprayer (reconditioned) from gleempaint and it comes with a 1.5 mm nozzle. This was what was suggested in many threads. If this is not a good one, I can try to rent an airless sprayer from HD.
I'm sure you will find it does not come with a 1.5 MM Needle, but rather a 2.0 mm Get your 1.5mm'er here: http://www.checkoutsupply.com/earlex-hvacv15-1-5mm-needle-brass-tip-hv3500/
MissisippiMan can you please post some links to your spray painting videos?
All my most recent build threads have Videos. Go to my profile page and search for "All Threads Created by MM" and you'll locate them all.
EDIT: Forgot to mention:
My ceiling height is 10 feet. It slopes on the front and on the sides to 8" near the edges (it is not a v shape but more like \____/ inverted) Also, the throw range is 14'3" and AR is 16:9 as per the projection calculator pro.
Is that Throw sacred? I suggest 13' 7". Also, note that the 180 has a 9" image offset, so your PJ should be mounted 9" above the top edge of the screen area. Get a good mount...a Chief RPA "specific" or a RPA-O (...not RPA-U...) Don't scrimp....stability and ease of adjustment is critical with PJs that have no Lens Shift. Get it from Projector People Aks for Kirt Ritari (ext. 2002) Tell him your a AVS'er....it'll go good for ya.
For the room colors here is what's been going on:
I wanted to paint the screen wall and the ceiling black and I came upon Rosco supersaturated black #6003. But from it's issues with scuff marks and maintenance, I was advised to use the rosco tough prime black only. This was from Rosco themselves. They informed me that having a primer or a top clear coat will nullif[y the special composition of 6003 and make it similar to any ordinary wall paint from a local hardware store. However, I have no reviews on how the tough prime black looks on the walls and ceilings except that it won't be the jet black. I was thinking of making the side walls maroon or darker shade of red.
Sounds BS-ey to me. ROSCO paints usually require thinning with water, and accept such without losing saturation, so where that crud about not using primer underneath came from....well as I said...a bit BS-ey all that. Besides, you can get a variety of really saturated Blacks tinted into other Interior Latex Satin Enamel for a more durable finish.
I might suggest instead of Black you go with the darkest shade of neutral Gray you can find, as Gray looks splendid with Red / Maroon colors while Black is just pug ugly unless it is at least in a Semi-Gloss, which you don't want anyway. Don't forget your Wood Trim. Paint it in the same color as the Ceiling only in a Satin Enamel.
I will also be making my own sound absorbers and considering either canvas or custom print from spoonflower.
Thanks for your help guys.
From all of us Oracles, we say....get'ter dun!
I predict good things in your future.