FLEXI-WHITE STRETCHING WOES - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-03-2013, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I can't for the life of me get my Carl's FlexiWhite screen stretched taut at all the corners. I assembled a prototype screen 5 times with mixed results but mostly unacceptable "waves" at the corners. Fortunately, I ordered a remnant so this is a screen I can throw away.

I tried stretching it a lot, stretching it a little stretch more vertically and less horizontally. In all cases i followed the process of starting in the middle and working out towards the corners. When I get to the corner if I stretch taut vertically it bunches horizontally if I stretch taut horizontally it bunches vertically. If I stretch towards the corner and pull really hard it stretches the corner out but still bunches.

I started over with a 90 inch prototype and carefully penciled the outline of the FlexiWhite on the frame which was slightly larger than the screen material. Carefully following the instructions I stapled the material but when I get to the corner I can stretch it taut in the vertical OR horizontal directions but not both. So this means that there is slack in one of the directions which leads to waves in the screen. It was much better when I carefully measured but still not perfect.

Does anyone have any pointers to share on how to get the corners to come out perfectly? My 145 inch material is on the way and I really need to be able to avoid this outcome on the real screen. If its not perfectly flat its not going to be an improvement over my flat stretched canvas.

One idea I had was to get like 12 people all stretching it flat and then stapling it while they hold it....it would be quick. As long as I don't open the twelve pack until AFTER the screen is stapled.
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-03-2013, 07:11 PM
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Did you try it like this? http://joeandcheryl.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/how-to-stretch-canvas.jpg
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-04-2013, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes this is the pattern I used. Since its not square I tried to put more staples along the long edge so when I got to the corner I had an even amount of material in X and Y.
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-04-2013, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IUnknown View Post

Yes this is the pattern I used. Since its not square I tried to put more staples along the long edge so when I got to the corner I had an even amount of material in X and Y.

It should not matter not being square.

The biggest issue would seem to be that your not pulling every staple point evenly.
The diagrams are not to scale, and you must adjust the distance between staple points to compensate for the size of the Frame. Also, shoot 3 Staples side by side...at each point...not just 1.

Somethings simply must come via experience...or the dreaded "Trial & Error" method.

I recently stretched out a 200" diagonal Flexi....so don't despair, it can be done.


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482706/up-and-coming-craziness-big-doins-in-the-big-easy#post_23598450

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-04-2013, 11:49 AM
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If the screen isn't as big as the frame, depending on how far "in" the wrinkles are at you could just lay your border over the top of the waves?

"Damn, you can't get black levels like that on your projector!"
- My brother, just before he realized his LED display had died.

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post #6 of 7 Old 09-05-2013, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I asked the folks at Carl's what the target stretch should be for my 126 inch material. This has always been a mystery with answers that are not numerical. Finally the answer was given 129 inches stretched, I don't think that's an engineering answer more experience.

Applying that in general yields a stretch of about 2.5%. So that makes the ideal perimeter for my prototype 78x44 material 80x45 stretched. This is significantly more than I was stretching,

Applying this much stretch yielded an acceptable result, The result is still not perfect because I did not have a way to measure horizontal stretch while stretching vertically. It is easy to measure the vertical stretch because I have a 45 inch vertical target line. However, stretch is being applied along the line at the same time with no way to measure the stretch along the line.

For my real screen I will mark a 129x72.5 rectangle on the frame as the target outline of the stretched material. Then I will divide the material into eight segments and mark it. I will divide the larger target outline into eight segments and mark it as well. Now I can line up the marks as I go to make sure the stretch in both directions is consistent.

This might sound like a lot of work but I expect that it will be half hour well spent. I get the sense that if I do this enough times I wouldn't need the marks but since its a one time thing this is the only way to get it right.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-16-2013, 11:26 AM
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Stretching flexi-white: This weekend I found how much of a pain stretching this material is. For my previous build I used blackout cloth, which was very tough to pull but eventually stretched very taught. Flexi-white however is more akin to spandex or nylon, as in it will seemingly stretch forever. After pulling and worrying for about 45 minutes I decided to just "muscle it" and ended up with a stretched screen with no waves in the middle. The less gentle and careful I was with the material, the better the result. I have massive amounts of wave/ripple at my staples, but none on the viewing area. I will lay my border over the waves at the staples.

As with almost everything else in my DIY experience, I had to stop tip toeing and just go all in for best results.

"Damn, you can't get black levels like that on your projector!"
- My brother, just before he realized his LED display had died.

Link to my Basement build
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