Decisions decisions. 165 diagonal 16X9 drywall paint job coming.... - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 09-03-2013, 10:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been putting together a screen from sheet rock, started a short thread earlier asking about the gain of Killz2. Now for a little more info and an update.

I have a "daylight" basement with no windows so it can be made as dark as I want. Original idea was to have a tiki bar (moved back from Hawaii) and I wanted to put a decent sized TV (65-70, maybe a hair larger) on one end. The second or third place I went looking had a salesman who said "have you considered a projector?", I basically looked at him like he was nuts. A day or two later I decided to look into projectors just for kicks and found there's a ton of people who are thrilled with theirs, and a lot of home theater reviewers recommending it as the way to go. That piqued my interest, at some point I found this forum.

After a bit of research I settled on an Epson 5020. Really tempted with the 6020 but figured an anamorphic lens is a bit of a pocketbook hit and I can deal with a replacement bulb later. I set it up in the basement and projected it on the bare concrete wall, and WOW... Nemo was huge! ... And didn't look half bad. I ordered my speakers, while picking up a receiver at Costco, and cried for 5 days not having any sound. Speakers came, Nemo could talk, and I just had to see what it would look like on something "better". I went out and bought a couple sets of king sheets at a discount house since we'd just moved and didn't have spares, stapled 'em up and WOW AGAIN. At that point I moved the projector back to where it's minimum projection would reach ceiling to top of center channel just for kicks, thinking I'd start "big" then move it closer until it was "right". Turns out big is right. At least for now, in a pitch black basement.

Well, the sheets were acceptable for me, despite the waves in the picture, the bright slashes where the sheets overlapped, and the odd distant look some objects had with all of the shadowing (or something, can't explain it readily). I decided to go ahead and try as big as possible, as easily as possible. Figured 3 sheets of sheet rock, hung vertically, cut to 81 inches would give me a roughly 16X9 screen (I had originally wanted to go with the laminate option and do a 12' by 5' screen and mask when in 16X9).

The toughest part of the whole thing so far was drilling pilot holes in the concrete for the boards to mount the sheet rock on. Some holes were relatively easy, some were crazy difficult. The sheet rock went up in no time between my wife and I. At that point I waited a couple of days. The sheet rock alone looked better than the sheets, which were an improvement on the bare concrete, which wowed me. After mudding the drywall and getting two coats of Killz2 on it, I'm giving myself a break to decide how to proceed with painting.... (to be continued)
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post #2 of 4 Old 09-03-2013, 11:09 PM - Thread Starter
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(I continued this because the reply screen wouldn't stay in place after a long post, kept having to type off screen then arrow down to read it)

OK, so now I have a primed surface that looks much better. After 2 coats of Killz2 I can only tell where the joints of the drywall are on a very limited number of scenes, if at all, when in use. With the lights turned off, my videos are perfectly fine in Cinema mode on the 5020 in both 2D and 3D. Haven't tried THX mode since making the jump to drywall from sheets, but THX mode in 3D was definitely dark on the sheets. With outside light sources, as long as they're behind the projector, which is about 17-18 feet from the screen, 2D is watchable although not terrific.

Now comes to the choices between paints for the final coatings. I had just thought about going with a Sherwin Williams white I'd read about but now am intrigued with the magic mud and silverfire DIY paints I'm seeing on the forum. I guess I'd eventually like the option with having at least some ambient lighting, especially for having sports going on with a bar in the rest of the basement (basement dimensions roughly 60 by 19, with the end I'll be using for home theater being 18 by 19, the screen 12 feet by 81 inches being on the 19 foot wall.

Rolled on paint would be preferable, however spraying is an option I'll do if it is likely to produce a better screen. I do tend to like my 3D movies, not sure if there are any restrictions there or if additional gain would be appreciated.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,


Steve
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post #3 of 4 Old 09-04-2013, 07:20 AM
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Steve....

Any joint that is still visible "at any time" will stand out like crazy after a good, high contrast paint is applied. Fill in and feather out all such areas at least 8 -10" from the visible areas, and sand the edges of the Feather until the Compound starts to disappear.

If you want to roll, with your Screen, RS-MaxxMudd LL is the ticket to buy for your trip.

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

http://www.invisiblestereo.com
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post #4 of 4 Old 09-04-2013, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I was wondering about it showing after a good paint goes on. Gotta look hard to find it now, but it is there to some extent. I assume its OK to continue filling in a little compound after a sanding of the primer. Can't see the actual joint at his point, but can barely see an 8-10 inch swath if I look hard on certain fairly light colored solid screens, those frames don't show up often in most movies, but it does happen.

I'll read up on the RS-MaxxMudd LL. I noticed the Silverfire users review thread the other day, is there a similar one for MaxxMudd? If a spray on formula is noticeably superior I am open to that route, bu otherwise I'm good with rolling. Even a bit of noticeable improvement over what I currently have should impress.

Thanks.
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