Wood for a ~120" diagonal AT screen - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 6 Old 12-11-2013, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I was at Home Depot today looking at wood to buy for my upcoming spandex screen. I am curious if anyone has used the PVC "wood". Here is a link to Lowes of the product I am talking about: http://www.lowes.com/pd_238347-45819-2827_0__?Ntt=238347&UserSearch=238347&productId=50092316&rpp=32

I don't know if that would hold up better in the long run than normal lumber. This material is straight as an arrow in stores, so that is the allure for me.

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post #2 of 6 Old 12-12-2013, 06:41 AM
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My guess is probably not since 1x4 poplar does very well at a little more than half the price. Now if you have the ability to rip the 1x6x12 pvc the cost is pretty comparable. That material would be lighter weight but i don't know if it has sufficient rigidity to avoid twisting. Since you say it is very straight it might be an interesting material.
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post #3 of 6 Old 12-12-2013, 08:06 AM
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The main issue is the attachment of the Spandex. It would require the application of "Screen Tight" so that the Channels could be screwed into place. I don't think you could Staple Spandex onto Plastic with any guarantee of success.

The OP could "Try" though, and if it works out it might be a very neat solution. It certainly will not warp...ever...and if adequately braced, the degree of pull pressure stretching Spandex across such a frame should not make to flex enough to be any concern.

Still, ripping would require the use of either a Table Saw with a special Blade, or a Skill Saw with Rip Guide and the same Plastic Cutting Blade (120 Tooth)

Then there is the Mitering of the Corners, and needing to use both adhesive and counter-sunk screws. The use of Simpson Strong Tie "L" Corner and "T" Braces would be strongly advised no matter what.

Seems like a lot of potential issues await, no small degree of uncertainty of success, all coming at more expense overall

To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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post #4 of 6 Old 12-12-2013, 08:09 AM
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I think you'd be gaining stability at the cost of strength. The PVC trim I've used outdoors would definitely bow over a 8-12ft span, especially over time. For that cost I'd rather aluminum (which you can still cut with a normal wood blade in a normal chop saw) or wood/aluminum reinforced.
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post #5 of 6 Old 12-12-2013, 06:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I am surprised that no one had tried using this stuff. One advantage to it is that it comes in 12 foot pieces, so that is helpful for larger screens.

I am definitely concerned about the strength of the product over time; it seems like it would eventually bow from the lack of strength.

I am interested in using aluminum, however where can you get in such large pieces without going to an industrial supply house?
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post #6 of 6 Old 12-12-2013, 06:48 PM
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fwiw, I did use a very similar material for my screen boarder, it worked quite well for that.
Honestly since my hybrid alum-wood screen has seasonal humidity issue, using this instead of wood would have been the ideal case for me, as the alum sq tubing is the structural member.

I wanted my border to be very rigid along the skinny length so it would be easy to mount a straight line, but flexible to easily conform to my curved laminate screen.

After trying many-many moldings at HD/Lowes, I settled on this "Tuf Board", it fit all my rqmts perfectly. Easy to cut, can be routered for inside bevel, strong for screwing into (I tested it).

I bought (1) 12' board, ripped in half for the big top/bottom pieces, and (1) 6' board, ripped in half, for the RH/LS sides. They came in at 2 1/2 wide.

Below is my test of the bevel and 45deg miter, ready for cutting the real ones.

Workshop above the 3 car garage, COLD! (not heated yet), but big/open workspace. Lots of white powder/dust instead of sawdust.


and http://www.avsforum.com/t/1029683/diy-curved-screen-with-structural-extruded-aluminum-metal-framing/30#post_15302528
a) Use Acoustic Transparent screen instead of laminate
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